How To Use the High Brix Gardening Kit: July, 2013
** New Since Last Instructions
This kit, used properly, will grow herbs, fruits and vegetables in such a way to produce the best flavor, highest nutrient density and healthiest, pest-free plants possible. Everything in this kit is a result of detailed soil tests and meticulous feeding schedules formulated by a lab that specializes in High Brix gardening.
What you will need:
1.)The kit. You have that already if you're reading this!
2.)Six pots of about 7 gallons each, OR seven “smart pots” in the 5 gallon range. Do not use smaller than 5 gallons. You will not have the success you should have if you use smaller pots.
3.)A small, graduated measuring glass, up to one ounce.
4.)An eye dropper, preferably marked in .5ml increments. The cheap, disposable ones are perfect.
5.)a very good spray bottle that puts out a fine mist.
6.)a proper, climate controlled growing area. IE, you can't grow tomatoes outside in the dead of winter, even with this kit. You can't grow a nice herb garden in a closet that gets over 100 degrees and up to 80%rh....even with this kit.
7.)One bale---3.8 cubic feet---of ProMix HP. Do not use another soil. It won't work. Everything in this kit is designed around ProMix HP. Don't be a jackass and use another soil, stick with what's recommended and be blown away.
8.)Optional: 20 pounds of organic worm castings. NOT composted worm manure.....real castings.
9.)Garbage cans, large tank, etc. 60 gallons in size, or two 40's, etc. You'll need enough for about 60 gallons of soil.
What is included in the kit:
1.)Soil amendment. Minerals, plant food, etc. There is one large bag of this marked, “Amendment”
2.)Soil re-charge. Similar to the amendment but with a a few additions. There is a bag marked “re-charge.)
3.)Root [FONT=ArialMT, sans-serif]Mycorrhizal inoculate[/FONT]
This is added to the transplant hole, or the hole where seeds are germinated. This bag is marked
“Root Zone.”
4.)
8 oz foliar spray “Brix”
5.)
8 oz foliar spray called “Stress”
6.) 6 oz fertilizer called, “Energy”
7.) 1 oz soil conditioner called, “Conditioner.”
1 oz concentrated microbial boost called “Tea”
4 oz Organic Nutrient Extract, called “transplant”
2 oz foliar spray "Bug and Pest"**
2 oz root drench "Cationic Drench"**
**New since last instructions
A word of advice:
Everything in this kit is synergistic. The soil is perfectly balanced with every mineral in perfect ratio. Don't do something stupid like adding a product your Uncle's friend recommended. Don't fall for the “more is better” trap. Use the products exactly as instructed, stand back, and amaze yourself, your family, and all the new friends you'll make when they try your produce. Do not use any other products in conjunction with this kit! They will not help, and will only hurt.
Step One: Soil Prep
Thoroughly mix the following:
1.)ProMix HP
2.)Amendment
3.)Worm Castings
This will fill a 40 gallon barrel and spill over to halfway fill another 40 gallon barrel. Put half the mix in the barrel and water with .5 oz of Conditioner in 1.5 gallons of water. Put the other half of the mix in the barrel and water with another .5 oz of Conditioner in 1.5 gallons of water.
(note: If you're using 40 gallon cans water the first half with one gallon, the second half with one gallon, and use the one remaining gallon in the partially full can.)
Ideally, this mix sits covered in a trash can for one month, during which time visible fungus will be seen as white, wispy cotton on the surface of the soil. Don't worry if you don't get visible fungus on top. Everything will still work fine.
Step Two: Transplanting/germination
Using a starter pot ½ to 1 gallon in size....
If transplanting cuttings, skip step 4. For seed germination, do not skip step 4.
- Fill with the soil from step one.
- Make a hole large enough to accommodate the cutting
- Coat inside of hole with “Root Zone” Be liberal, but don't run out till you've covered every plant. There should be ample amount in the kit.
- If germinating seeds, make the hole and apply Root Zone and deposit seed AFTER watering in step 5.
- water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot.
Step Three: Vegetative Growth**
We're going to build some roots. We don't care so much about leaves at this point, although they'll start looking really nice too.
The first watering after transplant can be with with straight water.
If the plants look healthy, the next 1 or 2 watering are also done with straight water.
Every second or third watering we are going to alternate one of two products:
Transplant and Energy.**
- One half ounce (.5oz) of “Energy” (or Transplant) in one gallon of water.
- 2ml of “Tea.” Add this to a small amount of water, like an 8oz cup and let it sit for a few minutes before pouring it into the gallon of “Energy.”
It looks like this:
Transplant water, water, water, Energy, water, Transplant, water, Energy, water, etc.
Some gardens might benefit from feeding every 3 waterings, others might get better results feeding every other time.
TIP: Just put an half ounce of either Energy or Transplant in a 5 gallon bucket, add the TEA, and give each plant 3/4 of a gallon and you've just fed 6 plants. For a full 4x8 tray, add a full ounce.
**1 oz of Transplant and 2ml of Tea per gallon of water are used on alternate feedings. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against eachother which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables.
The above mix is ample for the size of garden recommended. More is NOT BETTER!
The idea here is to take that gallon of feed water and evenly distribute it to each plant. If you use five gallon buckets, you'll need two of them, ½ gallon in each bucket, just make sure the gallon of feed water is evenly fed to all plants.
For those with irregular gardens, just remember: 1 oz of Energy covers 30 square feet.
Foliar Spraying:**
**When Cuttings are fresh and rooting, a light mist of 1/2 strength Stress will give great results!
When cuttings are established, or when seedlings have 5 sets of leaves, it's time to spray full strength. This is the heart and soul of High Brix growing. Pay close attention!!!**
Once a week give them a boost of “Brix.” 1 ounce per quart of water. IE, 1 ounce per spray bottle. Spray a light mist on the plants, trying to get the underside of the leaves as much as possible. If you find you have Brix left over, do not try to save it or store it for longer than a day. Merely adjust the amount you're using so that you have minimal waste. As the plants get larger, they'll require you to adjust your recipe. 1oz will cover a very large garden!
Spray with “Brix” weekly, right up to harvest.
Remember! We're not trying to duplicate a rainstorm! We just want a fine mist on the leaves.
In between sprayings of “Brix” or anytime the plants look a bit stressed, give them a spray of “Stress.” Again, concentrate on the underside of the leaves.
The recipe for Stress is also 1oz per quart of water. Stress can be saved in a refrigerator for several days. It smells pretty bad right out of the bottle, but try to get used to it and smell it before using a stored batch to make sure it hasn't changed in any way. If you're not sure, throw it out and start fresh, making a mental note to adjust your recipe.
I find that the plants get a spraying about 2-3 times a week. Once or twice with “Stress”, once with “Brix.”
**A new spray called "Bug and Pest" is included with the kit. We mix this one at 1 oz per gallon. Really drench the plants, top and bottom with this one. I like to use it when the first pistils are forming in early bloom. It will kill many insects, like mites and thripes, but it also washes the leaves, kills PM, and increases photosynthesis in the leaves.
There is enough for two applications in the kit, which is ample when combined with the other sprays. The bugs just don't have a chance.
Step Four: The Blooming/Fruiting Phase**
When it's time to transplant out of veg containers and into the final pots that will take the plant to harvest, again coat the roots with Root Zone.
**Water the freshl transplants with Bloom-Transplant a solution consisting of 1/2 oz Transplant/gallon per number of plants! For example, if I have 6 plants I'm going to use 2.5 oz of Transplant in a bucket of water large enough to give each plant a gallon. In this case, unless I have a six gallon bucket, I'll need two buckets. Each fresh transplant is watered in gently with one gallon of the above solution. Add 3 mil of Tea to this mix.
When the plants are ready, it's time to get some blossoms and flowering started.
**Many herbaceous plants grown indoors and forced to flower will benefit from a Cationic Drench. Vegetable crops like Tomatos will benefit from this treatment as soon as the plants are mature enough to put out blossom. You can grow them as large as you like and literally cover them in yellow blossoms overnight.
Feed the Cationic Drench twice in a row durings Week 3 or 4 of the blooming phase at the exact same concentration as you would feed Energy, IE 1oz per 30 Sq. Feet as instructed above in the Veg section.
We're also going to feed 1 more dose of Transplant at the rate of 1oz per 30 sq ft, sometime around week 7 of bloom for plants that complete flowering in 8 weeks or longer.
A Sample feeding schedule in bloom might look like this:
Bloom-Transplant, water, water, Cationic Drench, Cationic Drench, water, Energy, water, Transplant, water
Tip:
Water small amounts at a time between feedings, enough to keep the soil slightly moist, but not enough to drown the plants or "flush" them. Feel free to flush the plants if needed, but normally it's not necessary.
Stand back and watch.
Enjoy!
Don't pH your water people. It's a bad idea for lots of reasons. Please don't do it.
My shit yellows too 
Thanks Doc 
