Curso's True High Brix!

Here's a bud pic of the Toxic Blue 33 x Grand Daddy Purple (TPP) She has a while to go still..
IMG_59164.JPG



And the PPP that is in flower got a drink of Cat drench today and will probably get some bloomit when I pull her out to put the opp back in the tent :)
 
Curso said:
Here's a bud pic of the Toxic Blue 33 x Grand Daddy Purple (TPP) She has a while to go still..
IMG_59164.JPG



And the PPP that is in flower got a drink of Cat drench today and will probably get some bloomit when I pull her out to put the opp back in the tent :)
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Curso,
Amazing stuff.. I see your studies of HB from Professor Bud have given you an A+ in your endterm project! :)
A Question or 4 please, if I may. How much do you dilute Bloomit? Do you use during growth phase too? Do you use same dilution throughout the growth stage and flowering, or just before and during flowering? Thank you!
 
DrZiggy said:
Curso,
Amazing stuff.. I see your studies of HB from Professor Bud have given you an A+ in your endterm project! :)
A Question or 4 please, if I may. How much do you dilute Bloomit? Do you use during growth phase too? Do you use same dilution throughout the growth stage and flowering, or just before and during flowering? Thank you!
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I use bloomit once. .75 oz:1 qt of water and about 1tbls of dextrose. I don't use that stuff for anything more than switching the plant along with the soil. I would strongly suggest only using it in that fashion. It can really destroy a plant, really, really fast.

Edit..when I say switching the plant with bloomit I mean from growth to reproductive energy.
 
Curso said:
I use bloomit once. .75 oz:1 qt of water and about 1tbls of dextrose. I don't use that stuff for anything more than switching the plant along with the soil. I would strongly suggest only using it in that fashion. It can really destroy a plant, really, really fast.

Edit..when I say switching the plant with bloomit I mean from growth to reproductive energy.
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Thank you! Yes, i am learning of the fascinating abilities of the HB amendments used to fulfill the plants potential. :)
 
DrZiggy said:
Thank you! Yes, i am learning of the fascinating abilities of the HB amendments used to fulfill the plants potential. :)
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Bloomit isn't suggested or put in the kit. I've had that stuff around for a while and through many errors I think I have come to this conclusion: That stuff is best sprayed at light out. I think allowing it to bake under the light is what causes the spotting. I have done it every way possible. Spots have reduced each time. I think at lights out it would allow the plant to absorb it while its sleeping and not bake it under the light.

I'll test it on this coming round of plants...
 
I've been thinking about the plastic pot vs smarties (bags as I like to call them) a lot lately. I recently read this article, you should to before continuing to read this post... Scientists Discover That Plants Communicate via Symbiotic Root Fungi |Higher Perspective




Now that I've put some thought into it. In plastic pots when the root runs out of room the roots have to either circle the bottom of the pot or go up. Right? So when the roots start to go up what happens to that colony? It gets broken up, that's right. So it damages your population.

In nature the roots grow down and out. In smart pots air pruning allows the roots to continue to grow out and down as far as the plant knows. The finer root's colonize with the Myco population and allow them to do what they do best, work with the plant.

I think that once these colonies get broken up is where we begin to run into problems.

Any thoughts?
 
Hmm interesting thought/observation. I would also have to say that a smarty and it's very fine root system is better for happy mycos. Seems like root bound plants in plastic pots have less soil and more thick roots. And maybe those thick roots displace enough soil that the mycos suffer.

On the other hand, picking up a smarty can significantly disturb the soil, so I'd say as long as it's left alone or moved very carefully, a smarty might be better.

I think that I'm into plastic pots for veg and root makers in flower.

I haven't tried small (1gal) fabric pots yet...I'd like to bottom feed/deep root soak with them in veg..
 
tavosvo said:
Hmm interesting thought/observation. I would also have to say that a smarty and it's very fine root system is better for happy mycos. Seems like root bound plants in plastic pots have less soil and more thick roots. And maybe those thick roots displace enough soil that the mycos suffer.

On the other hand, picking up a smarty can significantly disturb the soil, so I'd say as long as it's left alone or moved very carefully, a smarty might be better.

I think that I'm into plastic pots for veg and root makers in flower.

I haven't tried small (1gal) fabric pots yet...I'd like to bottom feed/deep root soak with them in veg..
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I've been vegging in 2gl about 3/4 full. You can leave them in there forever...lol kinda squeezed a couple before I read that and have to "mend" the soil in them before I transplant them. They seem to really like bottom feeding and deep soaking in veg too.

I found when I veg plants for the same amount of time in plastic and bags the bag plants is always bigger and healthier.
 
Curso said:
I've been thinking about the plastic pot vs smarties (bags as I like to call them) a lot lately. I recently read this article, you should to before continuing to read this post... Scientists Discover That Plants Communicate via Symbiotic Root Fungi |Higher Perspective


Now that I've put some thought into it. In plastic pots when the root runs out of room the roots have to either circle the bottom of the pot or go up. Right? So when the roots start to go up what happens to that colony? It gets broken up, that's right. So it damages your population.

In nature the roots grow down and out. In smart pots air pruning allows the roots to continue to grow out and down as far as the plant knows. The finer root's colonize with the Myco population and allow them to do what they do best, work with the plant.

I think that once these colonies get broken up is where we begin to run into problems.

Any thoughts?
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Keeping in mind that I'm a natural devil's advocate, debater kind of guy ... I'm not so sure if I agree.

I didn't know about the extensive fungi network - wow! I know that when we introduce the mychos to the roots of the seedling, they establish a colony on those roots and that colony continues to grow along with the root, like a coating. So if that root turns upward in the soil, the fungi just follow along. I'm not so sure it make any difference which way the root grows.

I bet we could get an answer by looking at the bacteria. The basic difference between the two materials is that cloth will pass gas (so to speak) and the plastic won't. So, at the cloth surface, bacteria (and fungi) will still get oxygen, etc - at the plastic surface, they'll hit an air gap and self prune if the soil isn't compacted, or an anaerobic environment if it is.

Seems to me the negative is the compacted anaerobic space.

Cloth seems intuitively better, but I still haven't seen a good reason why.
 
Graytail said:
Keeping in mind that I'm a natural devil's advocate, debater kind of guy ... I'm not so sure if I agree.

I didn't know about the extensive fungi network - wow! I know that when we introduce the mychos to the roots of the seedling, they establish a colony on those roots and that colony continues to grow along with the root, like a coating. So if that root turns upward in the soil, the fungi just follow along. I'm not so sure it make any difference which way the root grows.

I bet we could get an answer by looking at the bacteria. The basic difference between the two materials is that cloth will pass gas (so to speak) and the plastic won't. So, at the cloth surface, bacteria (and fungi) will still get oxygen, etc - at the plastic surface, they'll hit an air gap and self prune if the soil isn't compacted, or an anaerobic environment if it is.

Seems to me the negative is the compacted anaerobic space.

Cloth seems intuitively better, but I still haven't seen a good reason why.
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It's all good bro, that why I mentioned it. Its a good discussion to have I think.

I know when I gave them a squeeze the other day, they were pissed at me...

Have you seen Dr.Danks previous harvest pic? That root ball is solid roots and needed supplemental feeding. Kinda like what is happening now to him. Once that colony gets broken they get kinda pissy. I'm also talking really big plants too, like 60+ day veg. I just think that the finer roots allow for more soil thus leaving more available food. His plants (is why I started thinking about it) have roots as thick as a finger in them. Now I'm not saying they are root bound, but what I am saying is the roots being that "thick" (for lack of a better word) are coming up through destroying his colony and not allowing it to start over because of lack of space. That bio-vam stuff makes for a massive thick root zone.
 
There's also some physics involved in fat vs fine roots. Fat ones have a LOT less surface area for the fungi. In fact, as I recall, it's the very fine root hairs that the fungi live on - they even add filaments to the hairs to make them more efficient. I don't think that happens on a fat root, so we don't like fat roots at all. :cheesygrinsmiley: Anything to discourage fat roots should be a good thing.

I saw Dank's reference to fading/yellowing, too. I get too much of that in mid-flower, too. I don't have a lot of faith in my biota - I've never seen fuzz and I don't have a very big dirt "sink" for cooking - only 20-30 gallons at a time, constantly rotated with used soil. So I've blamed my yellowing on that. He also isn't in true HB soil. I especially had that issue in the mineralized soil, as did Doc.

I get fabulous rootballs in 6 gallon square plastic pots from 24 inch plants - nothing but beautiful packed networks of fine roots. If you want 'em bigger, I think you have to go 10+ gallons or be more generous with Energy.

I still like cloth pots. Are they hard to peel off?
 
I wouldn't ever use anything else, not hard to get out at all, honestly. Dr.Dank and I have been deducting the issue for days. I just had this realization talking to Shotta earlier.

I never had that problem with T&J or mineralized soil. I did't use the plastic pots either. His are in 10gl and the SS are having the same issue. It's the pot ;)
 
I have my eye on some 10 gallon bags that look like they're taller than wider. I need something 15" in diameter or less for my 4x4. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I'd like to see what my room can do with 10 gallon pots.
 
Graytail said:
I have my eye on some 10 gallon bags that look like they're taller than wider. I need something 15" in diameter or less for my 4x4. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I'd like to see what my room can do with 10 gallon pots.
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I was thinking the same thing. I am pretty impressed with what the 7gl's have done. We'll see how the rootball looks when I dump them.

I think Dr.Dank has the tall 10gl pots they are fairly narrow. Could always use the big box store "resuable" bags they're square and narrow..
 
Oregon Breather has an 11 gallon round bag that they say is 17x12. Their 15 gallon is 17x15.

:thumb:
 
I keep thinking about that link...I'm looking at my soil a little bit differently now. Once it is in the pot, it's really the brain of the operation not the worker, what is above ground is just there to gain a different source of energy. Because life is energy. So if we start to section off the "brain" of the operation in an unnatural direction it's going to cause issues.


PS...the soil recycle...is a bulletproof coffee for your "brain"
 
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