Complete Guide To Using STS To Create Feminized Seeds

popol said:
is it ok if i could only find silver nitrate 99.95 instead of 99.99?
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It should be fine since you're only weighing out to the nearest 10th (0.1) of a gram. You'd be multiplying by either 0.9995 or 0.9999 which will give you a difference of 4/10,000 (or 1/2500th) of a gram which wouldn't even show as a difference on the scale unless you were making pretty large quantities.
 
Just ordered my supplies and was going to .8 grams silver nitrate and 2.5 grams of sodium thiosulfate, only because that was what I was taught. Seems like .5 grams of silver is the norm, any thoughts of why one would use .8 grams?

If I were to treat Fem Autos to produce pollen, then pollinated another Auto... would the resulting seeds I get still keep the Auto characteristics?
 
Mr. Krip said:
The auto trait is recessive and crossing two autos will result in auto seeds.

This post will help:

Quick Course In Cannabis Cross-Breeding & Genetics
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Thanks, I thought that might be the case. I'm not interested in crossing varieties, just perpetuating the strains I have via feminized seeds. I've been cloning, but it seems it is always two weeks minimum until they have a decent sized root mass large enough to plant in a mix, then when I compare growth after germination, it always seems like the germinated seeds grow faster out of the gate, plus they are easier to train based on the leaf arrangement along the nodes. Anyway, thanks for the quick response. I'm licensed for up to 30 plants, so I'd like to fem 5 or 6 different varieties to have enough seed for a year.

Lastly, do you think it would be safe to go with .8 on the nitrate and 3.1 on the ST? That was what I was told, either way, I'm sure both work well... with the higher dose maybe more inclined to burn?
 
ThailandBound said:
Lastly, do you think it would be safe to go with .8 on the nitrate and 3.1 on the ST? That was what I was told, either way, I'm sure both work well... with the higher dose maybe more inclined to burn?
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Most of the "recipes" I've seen use the proportions in the original post. Assuming you're at 0.8 on the Silver Nitrate, proportionally you should be at 4.0 on the ST (factor of 1.6). Assuming you mixed both in equal amounts of H2O, you'd just have a stronger base batch, but in the same proportions, and could be diluted a little more (1.6x) to come up with the same strength STS solution. In other words....I don't know, maybe? :hmmmm::rofl:
 
Mr. Krip said:
Most of the "recipes" I've seen use the proportions in the original post. Assuming you're at 0.8 on the Silver Nitrate, proportionally you should be at 4.0 on the ST (factor of 1.6). Assuming you mixed both in equal amounts of H2O, you'd just have a stronger base batch, but in the same proportions, and could be diluted a little more (1.6x) to come up with the same strength STS solution. In other words....I don't know, maybe? :hmmmm::rofl:
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Hahaha... thanks, your reasoning sounds right. I'll just stick with what you posted and give it a shot once I get the materials. Nice, easy, and it works. That is all I'm interested at this point! Thanks
 
I recently applied a 0.02M concentration of STS solution (20ml of 0.10M silver nitrate solution and 80ml of 0.10M sodium thiosulfate anhydrous solution) on my plants and then flipped the same day. After 10 days of 12/12 I noticed preflowers and sprayed the plants a final time. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
20200803_155210.jpg


The reason I worked in molar concentrations is because my silver nitrate came as a 1.0M solution and not as a crystalline solid. I found it personally much easier for me to work in based on my situation.

Best of luck. :thumb:
 
The Phantom said:
I recently applied a 0.02M concentration of STS solution (20ml of 0.10M silver nitrate solution and 80ml of 0.10M sodium thiosulfate anhydrous solution) on my plants and then flipped the same day. After 10 days of 12/12 I noticed preflowers and sprayed the plants a final time. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
20200803_155210.jpg


The reason I worked in molar concentrations is because my silver nitrate came as a 1.0M solution and not as a crystalline solid. I found it personally much easier for me to work in based on my situation.

Best of luck. :thumb:
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Kudos to you for figuring out molar solutions... I've blocked moles and things like Avogadro's Number out ever since it took me 3 times to pass college chemistry, lol. Lookin' good in the pic.
 
Hey @Mr. Krip, I have not tried producing feminised seeds before but I have come across what I think is a keeper of a pheno but do not want to keep a mother. I would like to keep for future use and I'm wondering if I use two of the same clones have one produce the pollen by way of STS and pollinate the other clone with this pollen will I get feminised seeds that are of the same/similar phenotype?
 
Curiousnoob said:
Hey @Mr. Krip, I have not tried producing feminised seeds before but I have come across what I think is a keeper of a pheno but do not want to keep a mother. I would like to keep for future use and I'm wondering if I use two of the same clones have one produce the pollen by way of STS and pollinate the other clone with this pollen will I get feminised seeds that are of the same/similar phenotype?
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Yes! There will be 25% probability for a recessive trait to show up but they should be very close.
 
That's fantastic news! Thank you, is there any other way apart from cloning to get exactly the same strain/pheno?
 
Curiousnoob said:
That's fantastic news! Thank you, is there any other way apart from cloning to get exactly the same strain/pheno?
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Those would be your best bets but, technically, if you were working with a pure landrace strain or highly stabilized hybrid and you had a pack of seeds from the same harvest, it's likely there would be little genetic drift between them.
 
The Bard said:
Glad you found it helpful, and hope others will too!
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G’day there. Thanks for posting such great instructions! I used this method and everything worked really well. I had great make flower development and quite good pollen production after about two weeks of the first male flowers opening. The first two weeks of male flowers were dry is no pollen. I used the pollen to pollenate feminised plants and it produced a lot of big healthy dark looking seeds.

Everything looks great except my germination rate with these seed is only about 1 in 10.

A couple of things that might be worth mentioning.. I used feminized plants to produce the male pollen.. can this cause issues?

And I also kept spraying the plants every 5 days for about two weeks after male flowers first appeared. After I read that as soon as male flowers are evident, spraying should stop.

Basically I am wondering if anyone has any idea why the seeds won’t pop? I have cracked a few open to look at the germ and it seems to be healthy and green. And I generally get a really high germination rate with my seed raising method.

Hope this makes sense!!

All the best. Grilson
 
Grilson said:
G’day there. Thanks for posting such great instructions! I used this method and everything worked really well. I had great make flower development and quite good pollen production after about two weeks of the first male flowers opening. The first two weeks of male flowers were dry is no pollen. I used the pollen to pollenate feminised plants and it produced a lot of big healthy dark looking seeds.

Everything looks great except my germination rate with these seed is only about 1 in 10.

A couple of things that might be worth mentioning.. I used feminized plants to produce the male pollen.. can this cause issues?

And I also kept spraying the plants every 5 days for about two weeks after male flowers first appeared. After I read that as soon as male flowers are evident, spraying should stop.

Basically I am wondering if anyone has any idea why the seeds won’t pop? I have cracked a few open to look at the germ and it seems to be healthy and green. And I generally get a really high germination rate with my seed raising method.

Hope this makes sense!!

All the best. Grilson
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@InTheShed , @StoneOtter , @dynamo1 , can any of you help Grilson out? He asked me about this on his profile but since I haven't done it personally, I was hoping one of you could help.

:thanks:
 
Grilson said:
G’day there. Thanks for posting such great instructions! I used this method and everything worked really well. I had great make flower development and quite good pollen production after about two weeks of the first male flowers opening. The first two weeks of male flowers were dry is no pollen. I used the pollen to pollenate feminised plants and it produced a lot of big healthy dark looking seeds.

Everything looks great except my germination rate with these seed is only about 1 in 10.

A couple of things that might be worth mentioning.. I used feminized plants to produce the male pollen.. can this cause issues?

And I also kept spraying the plants every 5 days for about two weeks after male flowers first appeared. After I read that as soon as male flowers are evident, spraying should stop.

Basically I am wondering if anyone has any idea why the seeds won’t pop? I have cracked a few open to look at the germ and it seems to be healthy and green. And I generally get a really high germination rate with my seed raising method.

Hope this makes sense!!

All the best. Grilson
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Can you post pictures of the seeds? They should be dark with tiger stripes and tough shells. Small lighter colored seeds with soft shells are not mature. Also - they should be stored in a dark container in a cold area like your fridge after harvesting for a few weeks to "rest" them. Finally - what method do you use to germinate? Water soaking? Paper towel?
 
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