ClosetCase420's - RDWC - 600W MH/HPS - Wonder Woman - Grow Journal - 2015

Drain to waste is for soil grows unless you are a trust fund baby.

Go ahead and read through the post I linked you to on beneficial bacteria..there is a lot of info there about nutes and stuff well beyond the Benies... its a good read.

But the schedule is really all bout your setup. You must assume you do not have, in your small closed space, the absolute best environment. You are going to do the best you can to make it as good as possible and that should be good enough. The reason I bring this up is it all comes down to photosynthesis and all the factors going into that. If you have a bigger light and everything else is the same including temps then the plant will grow faster and you will need more nutes.

The recommended schedules are all for people who are doing it correctly with optimal environments. So it is important to always start very small and slowly work up. It is highly unlikely in your first 3 grows that you will ever need to run full strength because you probably are still learning so much.

So you monitor the ppm like I explained earlier and watch the plants...they are talking to you and telling you exactly what is over done and what is deficient. Over time you will learn to see and understand the signs and you can keep them happy. So you monitor and you up the PPMs when they tell you they are hungry.

I am trying to teach you to fish not hand you a basket of fish and chips.

:Namaste:
 
my last test with orca and voodoo juice(couldn't remember if it was bacteria) didn't end well, these bottles were a year old, so that might have something to do with it, I'm just now starting to get decent looking roots, I don't have a chiller. I made my rdwc so I could put frozen bottles(20 oz-1/2 gallon- whole gallon) to keep my temps in the good range and make it easier to change water. I'll use what I got for now and test beni's later. There is a lot of info that VI has in his link. Thank you for that. I'm still trying to get this down myself and I can use any info that is thrown my way. I can just says what I have done and what results I have had
 
PTSDgrower said:
that chart is different from what the bottle says...
Click to expand...

I know, makes no sense at all considering it's GH's website.

VilliageIdiot said:
Go ahead and read through the post I linked you to on beneficial bacteria..there is a lot of info there about nutes and stuff well beyond the Benies... its a good read.
Click to expand...

I promise I will read through the post before I ask any more questions. I'm only going to post my planned feeding schedule to make sure I'm on the right page.

VilliageIdiot said:
Here is another thread where someone tried to nail down exactly what to add...I did a decent job there explaining why this is not a real question.

Optimal PH and PPM from Seed/clone - Harvest?
Click to expand...

Next one on my list to read.

Ok so based off of your responses I believe this is how I will approach feeding's going forward.
This obviously can be modified to meet plants needs.

I have 18 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck tub holding 15 gallons of water

When I see roots coming through the net pots is when I should really start adding nutrients.
Anything before that is generally a waste.

When I start I should add lower strength for most nutrients...

CalMag - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons
Gro - 15ml - 1ml x 15 gallons
Micro - 15ml - 1ml x 15 gallons
Bloom - 15ml - 1ml x 15 gallons
Silica - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons

I will monitor the PPM as I replenish the water.
If I notice the PPM drop that means the plants are absorbing the nutrients and I can increase the dosage.
If I notice the PPM increase that means the plants are drinking water but not absorbing the nutrients so I should decrease the dosage.
The ideal dosage would mean the PPM stays the same as the water level goes down.

I should expect to see the plants requiring more nutrients when they have matured a little bit and have grown a bit.

Full strength during vegetation would be...

CalMag - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons
Gro - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons
Micro - 15ml - 1ml x 15 gallons
Bloom - 15ml - 1ml x 15 gallons
Silica - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons

When I switch to flower I'll switch up the nutrients a bit...

CalMag - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons
Gro - 15ml - 1ml x 15 gallons
Micro - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons
Bloom - 45ml - 3ml x 15 gallons
Silica - 30ml - 2ml x 15 gallons (just until 4 weeks into flowering)

Ride this out through flower.

What are your thoughts? Good or anything I should modify?

You mentioned FloraNectar. Should I include that? If so at what dosage?
 
closetcase420 said:
I know, makes no sense at all considering it's GH's website.
Click to expand...

This is because of what I am trying to explain... that this is all nonsense. They can't put anything out there that is correct for everyone. All they can do is say something that is generally not horrible for most people. And they are not going to put on there what is good for beginners or small stressed out hot grows in mini cabinets.

These are just rules of thumb to get you close. At the end of the day you have to monitor the leaves and the stalks and the flowers and the roots and the water temps and the PPM and the Ph and the air temps and the relative humidity and much more. You must learn to speak cannabis and understand what the plant is saying to you to know what it needs. That bottle can't tell you everything in one row.

But the 1 thing I can tell you is it is very easy to recover from under feeding and it is very hard and rough on time to final product if you stunt or stress from over feeding. If you overfeed in bloom you will impact negatively the results period.
 
Here is another way to look at it. When you watch a video on youtube about how to do this and someone says I did this and it goes from 400 ppm to 1400 ppm what you should take away from that is they upped it 1000 PPM. When they say week 10 I added this. You must base that off what they have been doing the other 9 weeks. Unless you have duplicated their environment exactly and have the same lighting and same ventilation and same hydro setup then you can't take what they do as lore. It is a relative thing.
 
No you are being a perfectionist. Go have a toke and relax. It will be fine as long as you don't over do it. You are way too early in the grow to be stressed. Those things will make there way out of the basket any day now and all will be good in the world.
:thumb:
:bigtoke:
:cough:
:party:
 
Today is 2 weeks (14 days under the lights)

No need for a backstory, plenty of reading above of interested.

20151115_174211.jpg


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Now you should be ready to read my other posts. I just re-scanned the bennies one and it is full of off topic stuff not about bennies you would be interested in.
 
nice bong!
 
Ok.. I smoked another bowl and read this thread..

Rdwc nutes questions

That was all about the different type of underwater current systems and deep water culture.

So my system is definitely deep water culture but would you consider it recirculating since I'm using the chiller to recirculate the water from the bottom of the tank to the top?

Btw I pulled out the whole top feed system in preference of space in the tank. I left the pump in the tank with no tube connected so its just churring up the water pretty good.
 
Yeah yours is recirculating if the chiller reintroduces at the top.

That was the thread that I said to read only if you cared about what types of DWC mean. The other one is all about nutes and uptake and ppms and Ph and how to manage it. And if you make it to the end you may just soil your shorts.

The turbulence should be enough especially once the roots get deep into the res. Remember DWC is the lazy way of doing this. It has been proven to work extremely well while requiring minimal equipment and knowledge. just throw in a good air pump and stone and it just works. your bigger concern is roots getting into the pump both tearing up the root zone and gunking up the pump. Just make sure the intake has a good filter to keep out the roots.

Under Current is really just NFT on crack.

Ebb n Flow is the grand daddy of them all. Understanding how that works and you will understand everything else and have a better understanding of why DWC works so well without spending any money.
 
it took me awhile to get caught up on this tread but, i think i got it, first off dont worry too much about not giving enough nutrents and worry more about about giving too much nutrients, you can cure hungry plants much much faster, then nutrient burn ones. I love that you have researched hygrohybrid if you listen carefully and get his method it wont fail you. you are using way too big of lights for the stage of growth your plants are in, i would consider using a 6500 k cfl bulb , 4-6, and a few twin socket attachments, that will keep cost down your electric for over a month at least, it may cost you $35 max to build it out but it will pay for it self in the short run. all for now ill give more insight later hopes this helps
 
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