I think what happens is the pythium actually spreads through the plant. It can be in the cuttings already.
Clone Success Tip
- Thread starter Herby Green
- Start date
Yeah it is just getting to me. I will lose 1 or 2 batches then the next batch will root 100% in no time. Then lose a batch or 2.
Yeah it sure throws a monkey wrench into the operation alright.
I will get it. I tore some sheetrock out to move water lines n electrical. If I can get the clones dialed in again the down time may be a blessing. Give me a chance to patch my sheetrock n get some painting done.
You got me thinking! Perhaps i should be treating my young plants with some sort of pythium fungicide. Something is off and is not consistent. I really appreciate everyones help a lot. I kind of lucked out on the growing aspect of things. From my first grow to now I have been killing it. Now i wish i had the problems most people experience when first starting growing, I really have no knowledge of how to fix shit when it goes wrong.
I'mOne
Well-Known Member
I had a friend suggest adding mychorizza to the water. Would healthy bacteria displace the bad bacteria?
Mycorrhiza isn’t the name for a particular organism or substance - it describes a situation or phenomenon where fungi (many possible different types) form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of a plant- helping the plant uptake nutrients from soil while the plant feeds the fungi.
Whether those fungi can establish themselves on the roots in hydroponic situations is debatable, but in any case from what I’ve read it takes quite a few weeks (like five or more) for them to establish well.
Whether those fungi can establish themselves on the roots in hydroponic situations is debatable, but in any case from what I’ve read it takes quite a few weeks (like five or more) for them to establish well.
Bacteria are a different thing than fungi, and yeah it seems like there are ones that actually eat and/or displace the ones we don’t want. It’s a quicker fix, in that sense.
Z7 is a two part product. One part I think is a saponin (it’s soapy and bubbly). The other bottle is a mix of enzymes and beneficial bacteria.
* “In plants, saponins may serve as anti-feedants, and to protect the plant against microbes and fungi. Some plant saponins (e.g. from oat and spinach) may enhance nutrient absorption”. - wkiipedia
Whether those fungi can establish themselves on the roots in hydroponic situations is debatable, but in any case from what I’ve read it takes quite a few weeks (like five or more) for them to establish well.
Whether those fungi can establish themselves on the roots in hydroponic situations is debatable, but in any case from what I’ve read it takes quite a few weeks (like five or more) for them to establish well.
Bacteria are a different thing than fungi, and yeah it seems like there are ones that actually eat and/or displace the ones we don’t want. It’s a quicker fix, in that sense.
Z7 is a two part product. One part I think is a saponin (it’s soapy and bubbly). The other bottle is a mix of enzymes and beneficial bacteria.
* “In plants, saponins may serve as anti-feedants, and to protect the plant against microbes and fungi. Some plant saponins (e.g. from oat and spinach) may enhance nutrient absorption”. - wkiipedia
Cornercat
Well-Known Member
I just learned what variegation is with this book, here's what it says:
"One of the most common expressions of chimeras in horticulture is variegated plants where the mutation involved is the loss of the chloroplasts in the mutated tissue, so that part of the plant tissue has no green pigment and no photosynthetic ability. Chimeras can only be conserved by vegetative propagation and not by seed. They are also commonly unstable and will revert to the original form. Eunymus fortunei, for example, has many cultivars with variegated leaves of different formations or colors. In the garden, these forms will often revert to the green-leafed species unless the non-variegated growth is carefully pruned out."
There is evidence that the plant takes genetic cues from the branches that are alive. If you cut out the non-variegated parts, that will encourage it to keep growing with the variegated trait. Theoretically, could be the same with stalkier, less lateral traits.
@Weaselcracker the variegated plant might have been hard to clone because of how little photosynthetic ability it has. The book doesn't say this, but I theorize you could have more success duplicating the variegation by grafting the variegated branches onto another healthy plant's rootstock that can supply its nutrients. Should take about the same time to
Cornercat
Well-Known Member
The book goes on to talk about mentor grafting, the only potential method of creating graft hybrids. It mentions that if you graft a seedling onto a mature plant, and prune all but the top 2-3 leaves on the scion (Scion = the branch you grafted onto the rootstock.) You keep pruning its leaves every week for its entire life, and the branch will supposedly become so dependent on the rootstock that it will take genetic cues from the other branches. And if you self cross the scion the progeny seeds have a chance to carry hybridized phenotypic traits from the rootstock.
What book is that? Sounds interesting.
I've done a fair amount of grafting. In the beginning it was unknown territory and I thought I might see genetic influence from the rootstock- but that never happened.
Yes I assumed the reason the cuttings were more difficult to root was the lack of.chlorophyl in the variegated parts. They’re basically piggy-backing on the non-variegated leaves.
At the time I lost the variegated plant I was air layering it instead of taking cuttings. That was working fine and I had roots showing, but went away for a week and my girlfriend managed to kill the plant somehow
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I've done a fair amount of grafting. In the beginning it was unknown territory and I thought I might see genetic influence from the rootstock- but that never happened.
Yes I assumed the reason the cuttings were more difficult to root was the lack of.chlorophyl in the variegated parts. They’re basically piggy-backing on the non-variegated leaves.
At the time I lost the variegated plant I was air layering it instead of taking cuttings. That was working fine and I had roots showing, but went away for a week and my girlfriend managed to kill the plant somehow
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Cornercat
Well-Known Member
It's called The Manual of Plant Grafting. The first chapter is all about misconceptions and fantasies related to grafting. But it does conclude with that segment on the mentor grafting technique precipitating genetic drift, which was just demonstrated within the last decade on plants like tomatoes and peppers. I assume cannabis applies.
I’ll check that out. Thank you.
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
You guys ever try using food grade peroxide in your cloners while you have cuttings in it? I made a little bubble cloner and my first ones rotted bad where the stems were scraped so I don't do that any more. Any rotting tissue is going to spread bad bacteria around.
Was warm with this batch and got a little root rot going but they went into pots of promix and grew fine.
I used RO water with about a 1/10th dose of AN 3-part and the same dose of CalMag so there was some minerals in the water then also added 1ml/L 35% H2O2. They all rooted well and tho I always make sure to have at lest one trimmed off node on the exposed stem the roots emerged from all over just as much as the nodes.
I still just like using gel then a dip in powder then into those small 9-hole seedling pots filled with ProMix HP I've run thru my 1mm mesh coarse kief screen. I use that mix for popping seeds too. Gives better contact around the stem or seed than the coarser mix that would have a lot of little air pockets. Great for roots from growing plants but seem to get better germination and roots every time with it. Stick them in a dome and put that out on the edge of whatever veg light I'm using for the plants so it starts with low light levels. Been scoring 100% that way for years.
Was warm with this batch and got a little root rot going but they went into pots of promix and grew fine.
I used RO water with about a 1/10th dose of AN 3-part and the same dose of CalMag so there was some minerals in the water then also added 1ml/L 35% H2O2. They all rooted well and tho I always make sure to have at lest one trimmed off node on the exposed stem the roots emerged from all over just as much as the nodes.
I still just like using gel then a dip in powder then into those small 9-hole seedling pots filled with ProMix HP I've run thru my 1mm mesh coarse kief screen. I use that mix for popping seeds too. Gives better contact around the stem or seed than the coarser mix that would have a lot of little air pockets. Great for roots from growing plants but seem to get better germination and roots every time with it. Stick them in a dome and put that out on the edge of whatever veg light I'm using for the plants so it starts with low light levels. Been scoring 100% that way for years.
Rheaun
Well-Known Member
What if we don't want to keep the food grade stuff and use the 3%, is it 10ml/L?You guys ever try using food grade peroxide in your cloners while you have cuttings in it? I made a little bubble cloner and my first ones rotted bad where the stems were scraped so I don't do that any more. Any rotting tissue is going to spread bad bacteria around.
Was warm with this batch and got a little root rot going but they went into pots of promix and grew fine.
I used RO water with about a 1/10th dose of AN 3-part and the same dose of CalMag so there was some minerals in the water then also added 1ml/L 35% H2O2. They all rooted well and tho I always make sure to have at lest one trimmed off node on the exposed stem the roots emerged from all over just as much as the nodes.
I still just like using gel then a dip in powder then into those small 9-hole seedling pots filled with ProMix HP I've run thru my 1mm mesh coarse kief screen. I use that mix for popping seeds too. Gives better contact around the stem or seed than the coarser mix that would have a lot of little air pockets. Great for roots from growing plants but seem to get better germination and roots every time with it. Stick them in a dome and put that out on the edge of whatever veg light I'm using for the plants so it starts with low light levels. Been scoring 100% that way for years.
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
11X. The 3% has stabilizers in it. Not sure if it makes a difference but I prefer the food grade that doesn't have those. I keep a squeeze bottle of it diluted to 3% by the bathroom sink for cuts, toothbrush etc but use it straight up when adding to hydro stuff.
Hydro or health food stores usually carry it. Some garden centres too.
I tried at least three, I think more, runs that way with a new $200 aero cloner that I bought in desperation. They all rotted and died to the last cutting. If anything they seemed to rot faster with the peroxide. That’s around the time I realized was pretty much running out of ideas.
I used the 3% peroxide for it but I couldn't see it making that huge of a difference. The cloner never got used again- still sitting upstairs - I should fire it up again.
I guess I have been lucky getting 100% success cloning so far. I use Clonex, clean tools and root in soil. For timing I have limited grow space so I do my clones near the end of my veg cycle. I have taken clones from younger plants like these with success as well. I find that toping one your girls start to get a little leggy gives more top growth. I take one right off the top growth and a few from low branches that I'm trimming anyway. I generally take no more than 3 clones off one plant at a time but I clone each plant twice - once at the mid veg stage (6 weeks or so) and one right near the end of the veg stage before flower. One thing I have noticed, my clones are healthier growing and MUCH more dense than what I was able to grow from seeds. The pics are my first clones done about 4 weeks ago (the bigger ones) and some from the mid growth cycle of the larger clones. Beautiful looking plants BTW!BODY OF EVIDENCE WILLEM DAFOE lays MAdonna
SCIENCE OF CLONE
Double Down
Grow more dope
I am Reading up again and sharing shit which is next to rolling a stoney
Stay positive
BEFORE CUTTING YOUR CLONE
Stop Fertilizing the Mother Plant☘
Before taking the cutting, growers should stop fertilizing their plant four to five days ahead of time. This will reduce the amount of nitrogen in the plant, which improves the chances of the cutting taking root. Nitrogen triggers the growth of leaves, so the less the plant has the more likely it will focus on growing roots.
My mother is nearing the maturity required for a clone,now over 60 days.
She is laying colas everywhere and in lst train mode.
Checking my balls in the mirror again before I sharpen and sterilelate the clippers.
Think I'll wait a few weeks lol
Should I let her be and wait ?
1st grow in 50 years
Hope this helps
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OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
My buddy does his clones in plain tap water. Lives in the city so maybe that's the secret. Magic water. lol
Has an 8x4 tent for the moms and a couple of 2x2s for his DIY cloners and does 72 in each.
Always has thrips and sometimes mites too so not a guy I'd buy a big batch of clones from more than once. Free ones are OK tho.
You guys have inspired me to put the aero-cloner back together again today. 
I just got so sick of cleaning and sterilizing it, setting it all up just to turn cuttings into slime.
After getting mites on free clones and spending nearly two years to eliminate the bastards from my property, I would never take clones again
I just got so sick of cleaning and sterilizing it, setting it all up just to turn cuttings into slime.After getting mites on free clones and spending nearly two years to eliminate the bastards from my property, I would never take clones again
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
You guys have inspired me to put the aero-cloner back together again today.
After getting mites on free clones and spending nearly two years to eliminate the bastards from my property, I would never take clones again
Don't scrape the stems. Mine always rotted where they were scraped. Just a 45° cut and stick them in.
Some plants I got off him a few years ago cost me a 2 year battle with mites as well. Still have a few thrips in the veg plants but getting rid of those soon.
Good luck!
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