ChronicHemphog's - DWC - Advanced LEDs - Time to Grow - Grow

I mean look at my chemdawg you can see through it and its still growing strong
heck the second super crop above it where I said the stem ripped theres a hole going through that too lol
and its still growing strong
 
Cronichemphog said:
oooh sounds wonderful I hope it is a good hydro strain
and thank you sir :Namaste:
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You are most welcome. I think I heard DocBud mention this when talking about this maybe in Shottafire's journal.

Your journal started moving so fast! new beans looking awesome man! Those are some lucky beans to have gone to you. They will lead a happy healthy life!

What happened to the foot? You have me worried?
 
RainStacks said:
You are most welcome. I think I heard DocBud mention this when talking about this maybe in Shottafire's journal.

Your journal started moving so fast! new beans looking awesome man! Those are some lucky beans to have gone to you. They will lead a happy healthy life!

What happened to the foot? You have me worried?
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lol

hahahaha

I think I forgot it

don't worry ill get him in on the next pic update

would you like left or right?
maybe both? lol
 
Cronichemphog said:
facing back to the light
if it isn't ripped I wouldn't worry
usually on super cropping you use your thumb and index finger and roll it on the stem with pressure and you can feel it pop or crack as it softens up and it just flops over
usually by the end of the day if you do it on lights on by lights off its reaching back up
as shown on the og kush in the airpot that I super cropped
they are hearty plants if it isn't ripped through it should be fine
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Thanxx Cronic
 
Happy Weednesday, Chronic:high-five:
 
and a Happy Weednsday to you too Sweet leaf
everytime I see your name I hear it in the background of my head lol
 
hrm I think it may be time to let the ogk mom flower im gonna use one of the clones for a new mom

seedlings are stretching lol gonna wait till the stem gets a little stronger before I add more hydroton

still debating about the mom but I may do it its getting way bushy and hard to get everything clear of the light

chemdawg has a bunch of tops now lol
gdp is still tight noded

I throw up a couple picks of the seedling and chemdawg later I gotta check res for depth and ph which is a daily thing once the plants reach a certain size
ok bbl
 
ok so chemdawg after some super cropping and it isn't done yet lol
don't know if you can see the main top off the central stem is now not the main top
but theres a bunch of tops more super cropping to come to get that center top caught up

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heres my 2 seedlings now the nycd and the holy grail kush

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skin from the shell stick stuck on there

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and the top of the 60dw just to throw a bud in there lol

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hmm didn't notice the hairs looks like another 2-3 weeks on that one
 
Lookin very nice! Ive killed many a seed trying to get the seed shell off the leaf.

The DOGs i got had that problem. Only downside to nice, mature, sturdy seeds is that sometimes the shell is too sturdy hahaha.

Keep it up that shits lookin good!
 
Cronichemphog said:
oooh sounds wonderful I hope it is a good hydro strain
and thank you sir :Namaste:
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Cronichemphog said:
lol

hahahaha

I think I forgot it

don't worry ill get him in on the next pic update

would you like left or right?
maybe both? lol
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I think I just got used to seeing it. I felt like if it was me I would forget. I love that it is so random and silly to put your foot in. If I put my feet in it would be even scarier than the spider pics I used to put up all the time. People would un-sub for sure!

I would like to see a 'thumbs up' but with your foot. Left or right, up to you. Thanks ;)
 
did you see it I snuck it in there
:thumb:
 
RainStacks said:
Ha ha ha, yup I saw it! You should learn to do things with your toes. I saw this guy on tv once that was a pro bass fisherman and he had no arms. That would be pretty cool If you took care of the whole garden with your feet. Them we could say 'you have a green toe?'
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:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Looking good my friend. Looks like LED's are starting to work out for a lot of people. I've even thought about revamping the room out with them. Cept after looking at what I realy need,,,,,,, I bout fainted. I see prices have come down and quality seems to improved a lot, but I guess I'm going to have to see someone growing with them,,, in person.........Sad thing is I'm a 'Old Dawg' and new tricks come real hard. Really tho HID lighting is a new trick as old as this dawg is............ Man I have to envy you and Pop's,,,,,,, 12/12 outdoors 365 per year........... You do know people Wood kill for that???????? But then I know it comes with it's own set of problems. I'm not really sure of your growing situation, if you have excess to great outdoors,,,, but you do have the ultimate growing situation for some of them 100% sativa's people drool at all over the world. I've tried to get Pop's do kind of a SOG out back,,,,,, but I know ya'll's 'numbers' might not allow it. I'm just talking like veg like 9-12 plants, 12-16" tall in like 1 gallon pots. Makes the back breaking work,,,,,,,, nothing? Maybe? Least might help. Hey don't know if your interested in all the microbial stuff going around? Myself I've opted for the Extreme Gardening WP powder, but I just seen this place that retails 'Exhale' has tons of products. Never hurts to read stuff do it? Nice babies, Keepem Green Almost forgot the link,,,,,,,,, Keepem Green Beneficial Biology & Mycorrhizal Fungi | Product Categories | Urban Agricultural | Wholesalers of Urban Gardening and Hydroponics Supplies | Urban Ag | Buy ExHale CO2 Bags
 
Thanks Norcali
OMM had some of those Co2 bags
I got fans blasting all day from out of the tent in and I always leave the door half open unless its lights out then I close it
the room is sealed running ac lots of air circulation inside the tent too so I don't know how well those bags would work for me
yea too many plants would be a nono here and actually OMM had a bunch but the shape hes in now its good hes cutting back but he knows all he has to do is holla and ill be there to lend a hand
ill go look at those links Buddy
Thanks for the info :Namaste:
 
I just was curious
this is something im probably not gonna try but some of you may want to try
called layering
rooting your clones while its still attached to the parent plant


Soil layering may be performed in several ways. The most common is known as tip layering. A long, supple vegetative lower limb is selected for layering, carefully bent so it touches the ground, and stripped of leaves and small shoots where the rooting is to take place. A narrow trench, 6 inches to a foot long and 2 to 4 inches deep, is dug parallel to the limb, which is placed along the bottom of the trench, secured with wire or wooden stakes, and buried with a small mound of soil. The buried section of stem may be girdled by cutting, crushed with a loop of wire, or twisted to disrupt the phloem tissue and cause the accumulation of substances which promote rooting. It may also be treated with growth regulators at this time.


Serpentine layering may be used to create multiple layers along one long limb. Several stripped sections of the limb are buried in separate trenches, making sure that at least one node remains above ground between each set of roots to allow shoots to develop. The soil surrounding the stem is kept moist at all times and may require wetting several times a day. A small stone or stick is inserted under each exposed section of stem to prevent the lateral shoot buds rotting from constant contact with the moist soil surface. Tip layers and serpentine layers may be started in small containers placed near the parental plant. Rooting usually begins within two weeks, and layers may be removed with a sharp razor or clippers after four to six weeks. If the roots have become well established, transplanting may be difficult without damaging the tender root system. Shoots on layers continue to grow under the same conditions as the parent, and less time is needed for the clone to acclimatize or harden-off and begin to grow on its own than with cuttings.

In air layering, roots form on the aerial portions of stems that have been girdled, treated with growth regulators, and wrapped with moist rooting media. Air layering is an ancient form of propagation, possibly invented by the Chinese. The ancient technique of gootee uses a ball of clay or soil plastered around a girdled stem and held with a wrap of fibers. Above this is suspended a small container of water (such as a bamboo section) with a wick to the wrapped gootee; this way the gootee remains moist. The single most difficult problem with air layers is the tendency for them to dry out quickly. Relatively small amounts of rooting media are used, and the position on aerial parts of the plant exposes them to drying winds and sun. Many wraps have been tried, but the best seems to be clear polyethylene plastic sheeting which allows oxygen to enter and retains moisture well. Air layers are easiest to make in greenhouses where humidity is high, but they may also be used outside as long as they are kept moist and don’t freeze. Air layers are most useful to the amateur propagator and breeder because they take up little space and allow the efficient cloning of many individuals.


A recently sexed young limb 3-10 mm (1/8 to 3/8 inch) in diameter is selected. The site of the layer is usually a spot 30 centimeters (12 inches) or more from the limb tip. Unless the stem is particularly strong and woody, it is splinted by positioning a 30 centimeter (12 inch) stick of approximately the same diameter as the stem to be layered along the bottom edge of the stem. This splint is tied in place at both ends with a piece of elastic plant-tie tape. This enables the propagator to handle the stem more confidently. An old, dry Cannabis stem works well as a splint. Next, the stem is girdled between the two ties with a twist of wire or a diagonal cut. After girdling, the stem is sprayed or dusted with a fungicide and growth regulator, surrounded with one or two handfuls of unmilled sphagnum moss, and wrapped tightly with a small sheet of clear polyethylene film (4-6 mil). The film is tied securely at each end, tightly enough to make a waterproof seal but not so tight that the phloem tissues are crushed. If the phloem is crushed, compounds necessary for rooting will accumulate outside of the medium and rooting will be slowed. Plastic florist’s tape or electrician’s tape works well for sealing air layers. Although polyethylene film retains moisture well, the moss will dry out
eventually and must be remoistened periodically. Unwrapping each layer is impractical and would disturb the roots, so a hypodermic syringe is used to inject water, nutrients, fungicides, and growth regulators. If the layers become too wet the limb rots. Layers are checked regularly by injecting water until it squirts out and then very lightly squeezing the medium to remove any extra water. Heavy layers on thin limbs are supported by tying them to a large adjacent limb or a small stick anchored in the ground. Rooting begins within two weeks and roots will be visible through the clear plastic within four weeks. When the roots appear adequately developed, the layer is removed, carefully unwrapped, and transplanted with the moss and the splint intact. The layer is watered well and placed in a shady spot for a few days to allow the plant to harden-off and adjust to living on its own root system. It is then placed in the open. In hot weather, large leaves are removed from the shoot before removing the layer to prevent excessive transpiration and wilting

Steps in making an air layer. 1) The stalk is reinforced with a small stick; 2) A small diagonal cut is made halfway through the stem; 3) A splinter is inserted to keep the cut open; 4) The area to be rooted is sprayed with rooting solution; 5) The area is wrapped with sphagnum moss; 6) A sheet of polyethylene film is tightly wrapped and tied around the moss. Layers develop fastest just after sexual differentiation. Many layers may be made of staminate plants in order to save small samples of them for pollen collection and to conserve space. By the time the pollen parents begin to flower profusely, the layers will be rooted and may be cut and removed to an isolated area. Layers taken from pistillate plants are used for breeding, or saved and cloned for the following season. Layers often seem rejuvenated when they are removed from the parent plant and begin to be supported by their own root systems. This could mean that a clone will continue to grow longer and mature later than its parent under the same conditions. Layers removed from old or seeded parents will continue to produce new calyxes and pistils instead of completing the life cycle along with the parents. Rejuvenated layers are useful for off-season seed production.
 
that's for the cloners out here
 
Cronichemphog said:
that's for the cloners out here
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Or maybe for the Dead Clone Society members willing to try anything. But let me make sure I understand. You're saying the roots will come from the opposite end of the branch instead of the end you use when you take cuttings?
 
Broke Ass Reg said:
Or maybe for the Dead Clone Society members willing to try anything. But let me make sure I understand. You're saying the roots will come from the opposite end of the branch instead of the end you use when you take cuttings?
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I wish I could post the pics it would make it tons easier to explain
the top is out of the soil you bend it down clear some vegetation you can use rooting hormone on the intended area
so your tip is out of the soil the stem leading to the tip is in the soil
as described
and when it says serpentine imagine how a picture of a sea dragon how it humps up and down the down parts is under the dirt
the up parts you leave vegetation on so it can grow on both of these when they root you cut it off

the air layering is talking about using like peatmoss or whatever make sure its wet you can scrape the area you plan on rooting and put rooting hormone
wrap peatmoss or whatever your using around the area cover it up with plastic and tape it up
you have to make sure its always moist in there tho so you could according to the instructions set up a drip line to make sure the area is always moist
cover enough so no light gets in and wrap with plastic taping it up to keep the moisture in
I wish I could post the pics it would help those insructions a lot
 
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