Cheap LEDs & Bag Seeds

He says to use Urb in his videos when he lists the recipe. That's how you activate it. He doesnt add Urb weekly though. It isnt clear (to me anyway) what the exact frequency of use is supposed to be. It seemed like it is every few weeks from the videos I watched. Perhaps I missed some critical instruction on this. I can be a dumb ass from time to time.
 
As long as the soil isnt turning to dust, the microbes would surely last a few weeks? If I end up scrapping this current soil, I think I'll find some kind of bland soil or medium that I can mix into my soil to cool it off a touch. Do you think promix would be a good choice? That doesnt have any nutrients added. Lemme know what you think. Any ideas?
 
Sometimes the smallest details are the most important. :) What do the URB instructions suggest?

I use my Realgrower's Recharge (a very similar product to URB) every other watering. I want fresh and very active microlife working hard on processing all the good minerals in my soil. You need to be doing the same thing. Without the microbes, there is nothing in that soil for bloom other than the granular nutes you added, a portion of which will be immediately available, and you need to get the microherd busy. The tag line on the product I am using is that it will rejuvenate a plant in 48 hours. URB will do the same thing.

And no, I would rather you figure out what is wrong here. Giving up and moving to promix just seems like 3 steps backwards to me, when you just about were to go organic.

The problem is in your above assumption that one application of microbes was good for several weeks. Not in an organic grow it isn't... you can't overdose on microbes, but you can certainly have too few.
 
It is interesting to me how different each strain can be. A few plants were never bothered at all and some were like the picture I posted. All soil is the same. I mix large batches at the same time with the same recipie. Each run is it's own batch. I am so hopeful for my 3rd run, but since bloom.is when this problem starts, I wont be flipping them till I have an action plan.
 
Get that URB in there full strength and lets see what happens in a day or two before you give up. Be patient, and trust the microbes and the soil you built... it obviously works for someone. Remember too that the FFOF and the seaweed you have been adding has loaded the soil with lots of free N, you don't need any extra nutes. Let the microbes catch up and process some of the minerals you have in there waiting for them, and actually start carrying the N to the roots in the proper way... This will turn around.
 
In the wild the microbes are naturally replaced in days? That's crazy. I guess I see the issue then. Do you think there is some kind of lock out then and I just need more microbes? The promix suggestion was to tame down my current soil if it was too hot. Not to scrap all my LOS. I was thinking it could help "cool off" my soil, but if that's not a good idea I won't do it. That's why I ran the idea past you. So if it is a lack of microbes. What the heck causes the curling? Could it be a lock out, a deficiency, too much nitrogen or what? My plants look luscious in veg. I gotta get this issue cleared up as I have learned SO MUCH about growing these plants. This seems to be my only real issue.
 
Get that URB in there full strength and lets see what happens in a day or two before you give up. Be patient, and trust the microbes and the soil you built... it obviously works for someone. Remember too that the FFOF and the seaweed you have been adding has loaded the soil with lots of free N, you don't need any extra nutes. Let the microbes catch up and process some of the minerals you have in there waiting for them, and actually start carrying the N to the roots in the proper way... This will turn around.
I havent been adding ANY extra nutes except a light dose of the liquid seweed only when that watering contained Urb which was only a handful of times since the plants started growing. To clarify, I have not been adding more foxfarm to my soil. I only use it when I mix up a new batch of soil. It is the base of the mix
 
There is no shame in learning, I do it every day, and we have all been there and have all had our failures.
I would do two things at this point, trusting that they are as bad as you say they are, and please, no embarrassing pictures are necessary. First, grab some clones. No sense totally wasting all this time. Second, try to save these, and see who looks best at the end, the clones ready to go into flower, or these now much bigger and hopefully much improved "slow starters." I am of the belief that practically anything short of death in veg can be recovered from, given the proper environment, and all you lose is time. Veg is the time to build up and survive whatever befalls them, and these weeds are good at it.
My Dad and I are in a discussion about what to do about your roots, and it follows some other recent discussions we have had in this regard. We have been discussing shock.
I myself believed that it was not possible to shock this weed "if a transplant was done correctly" and this was part of my dislike of the belief in the Auto world to NOT transplant. My father as always is an eye opener when it comes to this master gardener stuff and he said that of course you want to shock the plant a bit when you transplant! Excuse me?


Yes, it is possible to mold a hole in new soil exactly the shape of the last container and transplant with absolutely no shock. Yay me. Was it best for the plant? It turns out that it is not.:hmmmm:


A plant treated in such a gentile manner will eventually figure it out, but it will take its time and meander the roots down and out into the new soil. Another house mystery has been solved, as to why the plants that my Dad transplanted for me one time were so damned vigorous. It has been gnawing on me, and it seemed upon interrogation that he spiked and layered just like I do... why was that grow so spectacular??
He pulls the roots apart a bit before planting it again! He tries to send them in at least in the 5 directions (my grandpa), and especially if the roots are wrapped, he cuts them!!
Egads.:adore:

Regarding your rotted roots, he said get that shit out of there. Don't be nice. Break those roots apart. (His words)

So we have been talking about me trying this on this grow to see how it goes. I intend to shock my plants just a bit on each transplant. This apparently will cause the roots to go crazy (think pruning) and they will very rapidly fill out to fill the new space, sort of in damage control mode. The resulting "shock" that we see, is like the coiling of a spring... the plant is changing its prime directive while it gets ready to leap into recovery mode.

Hmmm... old people. You really got to listen to them. :nerd-with-glasses:
I learn so much randomly reading your replies :eek::thumb:
 
You are giving it in a form that is partly readily available, and partly building up in the soil waiting on microbes to process it. Since the base soil already had plenty of free N to get you to week 5 of your grow, the addition of seaweed was too much. Active microbes could have helped mitigate this, but that didn't happen, and now there are hot zones in your soil of accumulated nutes, and it is a little warm in those zones... I still think you can work out of this. Keep in mind too that Rev would have you doing AACT every 7 to 10 days too, and it is in these mixes that it would be appropriate to add the seaweed, not as a nutrient, but to supply those specific microbes in the tea.
 
Holy sheet. I'm gettin noti's for this. @Virgin ground , thankya. Legit. I forgot all about dis one. Imma have to catch up.
 
Tomorrow. Been at a shop 3d printing a project the last few days .
 
You know, my journal is blowing up now. Too bad it's over a total noob mistake where I misdiagnosed an issue and in a knee jerk reaction tried to change things that were not the real issue. I went down the wrong rabbit hole entirely. I have a better understanding of excess nitrogen now, but overlooking a single variable really taught me a lesson.
 
Back
Top Bottom