CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

Here is the base fill mix:
4G (16L) Roots Organic Soil
1G (4L) Perlite
1 cup DynoMyco (it should have been like 3/4+ cup, but I rounded up).
1/2 G (2L) Biochar (well, actually activated carbon plus Zeolite soaked in EWC for a year).
3 TBS GeoFlora VEG. (I think it was like @2.2 TBS for 4G, but this batch is closer to 5.5 - 6 G, so I went with 3TBS.)

After breakfast with dust and another couple of kief concentrate hits, I will back fill the first SIP with this, leaving space for a Solo-cup's worth of regular Roots Organic (with a golf-ball sized divot for planting mix).
mix.jpg


I am thinking probably fill the SIP to 8" and then 1" of W to the 9" mark and then a plastic cover (to conserve vertical height).
 
Ok, first I took care to align the fill-tube with one of the 4 air holes, so I can watch the water level better as I fill.
Then I took care to pack the soil into the bottom rim of the SIP (where the insert meets the bucket).
Then I back filled the SIP to within 1" of the top of the Solo Cup (which has regular non-primed Roots soil).

1.5.jpg


Then I filled with bagged EWC (which are moist, but not wet). (After I bounced everything, it took like 1.5" of EWC, but I do not mind, because I love EWC.)

sip fill.jpg


Then I put a good bit of DM at the bottom of the Solo-cup hole ('cuz I have seen other people do that--monkey see, monkey do).

dm sip.jpg


Then backfill, and we will scoop out a golf-ball sized hole for starting mix when it is time to plant.
And then a plastic cover.

How does this look?

SIP GroTech 420 Magazine Prepped for Wetting.jpg


Even with packing the soil where the black insert meets the bucket, you can see that a good bit of soil still gets past the insert into the reservoir on this GroTech model, but I do not think it hurts anything.

If there are no comments or critiques I am going to start to make 12 more buckets (and 2 buckets of supersoil, to test it).
 
I am sorry to hear the SIP is not working for you.
My Cannabis is inside and I a happy with keeping them in traditional pots of soil and hand watering when needed. I put a couple outside in a guerilla style grow and those are not a big chore when it comes to watering..

The big issue is the outside flowering plants which are typical summer garden flowers and some herbs. Some are part of a wall of flowers used to block the Marijuana from view. This past year it was Geraniums. Once it was a wall of Rosemary. Next year, well no idea yet, maybe a wall of red Snapdragon flowers.

During July, August and September the pots often dry out and need daily watering. It gets to be a real pain to make the 6 to 7 trips back and forth every afternoon with a watering can to take care of them. Trying to think of something other than dragging a hose around.
 
I was hoping to hear from Emmie, but it seems she is not here,
If you are talking about Emilya she mentioned in mid summer that she was still fighting mites and thinking of taking the grow down until the pest insect was under control. She does stop by once a week or two but not posting.
 
My Cannabis is inside and I a happy with keeping them in traditional pots of soil and hand watering when needed. I put a couple outside in a guerilla style grow and those are not a big chore when it comes to watering..

The big issue is the outside flowering plants which are typical summer garden flowers and some herbs. Some are part of a wall of flowers used to block the Marijuana from view. This past year it was Geraniums. Once it was a wall of Rosemary. Next year, well no idea yet, maybe a wall of red Snapdragon flowers.

During July, August and September the pots often dry out and need daily watering. It gets to be a real pain to make the 6 to 7 trips back and forth every afternoon with a watering can to take care of them. Trying to think of something other than dragging a hose around.
Yes, it is true. The last I heard, Buds Buddy had to oversoak to the brim to overflow morning and evening.
Too bad they do not make stock trash can SIPs!
 
If you are talking about Emilya she mentioned in mid summer that she was still fighting mites and thinking of taking the grow down until the pest insect was under control. She does stop by once a week or two but not posting.
Oh, bummer! I am so sorry to hear she is having problems.
 
OK, 15 SIPs made. Once the girls are planted I will want to put skirts on the clear plastic.
I watered to the fill hole, and will come back again and top off again in the morning, and again at planting in the afternoon. Right now she needs to wick up.
I am pretty sure Roots Organic Soil already comes with myco, so I will not add myco to the watering this first time.
I think probably I can probably soak beans first thing in the morning, and plant in the afternoon before Shabbat.

15 SIPS ready for planting.jpg


Actually, just because of the way the Roots Organic Soil bags worked out, I skipped the supersoil. We can hit that on another grow.
With two of the buckets I decided to try an experiment that would be something like a "spike", except I call it a "dollop" or a "depot" I put three large dollops of bloom fertilizer (like three heaping TBPS or so each), and you can see one of the dollops in the photo above, in the side of the bucket sitting on the turquoise blue lid).

3 Dollops of BLOOM in a SIP.jpg


And then for fun I decided to try one experimental bucket with rice hulls (with no dollops), because as much as I can, I still want to try to source local.
The the last two grows had a ton of sodium, which held everything back. I personally think it was from the "boutique base soil" I used for a supersoil base (and I think someone used table salt instead of Epsom salt), but everyone else thought it was the rice hulls (which I used as aeration instead of Perlite).
I boiled some rice hulls to make tea, and there was no salt taste, so I want to try one test bucket, to see if it dies or turns brown (like the others), or if it grows great. If it grows great I will use the Perlite I have and then switch to rice hulls (because as they break down they add silica). And if it dies or does badly, I will stick with the Perlite.

420 SIP rice hulls experiment.jpg


That's about it.
Now I need to pick out beans, and in the morning I can soak them, and plant in the afternoon.
Thanks, everyone, for the help!
 
I have looked at the SIP method hoping it would be what I wanted for my outdoor summer flowering plants but it will not work.
It's a pretty flexible method, you bring your normal soil and nutes and the plant waters itself from the reservoir. What is it that you don't think will work for you in your situation?
 
Now I need to pick out beans, and in the morning I can soak them, and plant in the afternoon.
Thanks, everyone, for the help!

Before you soak your seeds check this out:




 
Hey Azi, great to hear from you.
If I go with 1" topcover of dried EWC, is it better to put a plastic, or would 1" of coco-coir/pine tree bark mix work just as well? Any thoughts or feelings you would care to share?
If you're concerned about the available real estate in the pot you have to work with, nothing says you have to add the topdressing of castings all at once. I topdress with them weekly, and add them as a 10%ish component in my mix.

Either plastic or natural materials will work as a mulch but I'm partial to the organic stuff. I use compost as mine and top it off monthly or so. With the organics you get the moisture retention of the plastic but also the microbes feeding inputs of the materials as they break down. I do have to keep my mulch layer moist however, and I mist it once or twice a day.

Edit: I see you've already filled your containers so my thoughts won't be of any use, but there they be nonetheless...
 
It's a pretty flexible method, you bring your normal soil and nutes and the plant waters itself from the reservoir. What is it that you don't think will work for you in your situation?
(Azi is "Dr. SIP")
 
Before you soak your seeds check this out:




Yes, thank you. That was interesting. It is a bit too much detail for my time schedule, though. I am literally having to carve out time to make the best buckets I can make in short order (because I might have to move), and then I have to get right back to it. But if you have time and interest in geeking out on microbes, then I am glad. But at my level I just need to remember to add microbes every week or two (but I think GeoFlora is supposed to have microbes built in).

Tomorrow morning early I hope to soak seeds, and then tomorrow afternoon I hope to plant them, and at that time I will spray the planting mix down pretty good (so it is nice and wet). And then I will keep it misted damp until it germinates, and then it is on its own. I have had some bad batches of seed, but when the seeds are good, the success rate is usually good. Roots Organic Soil and GeoFlora are supposed to have microbes built in, so I am wondering if I even need to add the Liquid Orca at times.

Sorry, bro. Life is a mile a minute for me here. I am on a different mission now but I am still on the move.
But living and biodynamic soil health (whatever you want to call it) is a big deal (because if we do not take care of the planet, what do we have?)?

Sorry, I wish I could do better, but I am on a tight schedule. Are there "actionable tips" to absorb? (I can recondition the Roots Soil. I have to examine whether it is economical to do so, or to give it to my neighbor lady, who asked me for my used soil, haha 😂 ).
 
Hahaha, ok, strategy question.
The goal is to grow as much weed as I can before my landlady sells the house (lol), because when she does that, I might no longer have a place to grow. :oops:
So, I am starting 16 SIPs indoors under LED, and that is max capacity for the room.
They let you have 20 plants here, but the custom is to run 19 (in case someone gets too stoned raiding your weed, and cannot count, i guess... lol).
Since I have 16 indoors, I get 3 more. So...I thought about the roof.

It is a little bit cool here. It is something like 50F / 15C at night, and 68F / 20C in the day (+/- 2C or 5F, give or take). I can put a top plastic on while germinating to raise temps, but I would have to take it off shortly after that.

I learned, they do not do fully-enclosed greenhouses here, because it is too humid. If you grow outdoors you only put up an overhead plastic, but you leave it open for air circulation (to prevent mold). There is so much moisture in the air that anything else does not work.
I have space, but I do not know what size of CBD auto regular to select.

My question is, what is the maximum safe size of plant to choose so as not to outgrow a 5G SIP filled with supersoil?

They make all different "sizes" of CBD auto regulars (0.5m, 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 2.5m). The bigger they get, the longer they take (obviously).
For example, take Top Tao's Blueberry Crystal (bought from a sponsor) is supposed to be bred for greenhouses, and the Blueberry is supposed to have some mold resistance. I thought I could try it.
(Lotta marketing hype, mon.)

TOP TAO SEEDS - BLUEBERRY CRYSTAL: FRUITY TOP RESIN PRODUCER

Although a mix of sativa, indica and ruderalis, Blueberry Crystal is a mostly-indica which shows in her densely-packed flowers and the easiness to grow her. There is only a hint of ruderalis in her genetics which means that her buds are developing very timely, after only 16 hours of light. Because of this trait, the females of this regular strain flower very fast and ripen early when you grow them outdoors. If you let her, the plant can reach a height of 1.5-2.5m. The life-cycle of Blueberry Crystal is also pleasantly short. You can look forward to a harvest in about 4-4.5 months after germination. At the later stage of flowering this Lady will show off gorgeous shades of burgundy and purple, turning the plant into a dazzling beauty and a true sight to behold!

BLUEBERRY CRYSTAL (TOP TAO SEEDS) REGULAR DATA SHEET

BrandTop Tao Seeds
ParentsEarly Top Tao x Auto Blueberry x Big Auto Tao
GeneticsIndica-dominant
Flowering TypeAutoflowering
Flowering Time13-14 weeks from seed to harvest
CBDHigh
Height (Indoor)250cm
SexRegular
Available asRegular Seeds


My questions:

Haha, what does this mean?
There is only a hint of ruderalis in her genetics which means that her buds are developing very timely, after only 16 hours of light.
Does it mean I need to keep night interruptor light on her until I want her to flip?
Or what does it mean?

Also, is 250cm indoors too big for a SIP on the roof filled with Supersoil?
And if so, what would be about the maximum size I should target for a SIP on the cool roof?
(Or try it, and see what happens? Hahaha.)

The ideal outcome would be to let the largest plant possible grow until dry, and then take the mature seeds, and grow them out. And then we can adapt those seeds to the soil on the property, once we get there.

But if 250cm indoors is too big for a 5G SIP, then about what would be a good "normal" height to choose for a CBD auto regular, to make seeds?
Gracias.
 
Before you soak your seeds check this out:




Ah, the new Teaming with Bacteria... gotta get me a copy!
 
It is a little bit cool here. It is something like 50F / 15C at night
Brrr comes to mind.

"As previously mentioned, low temperatures will detrimentally affect the root system and the uptake of nutrients, particularly in the case of magnesium. This micro-nutrient is vital for the proper development of the cannabis plant and if the substrate is colder than 18ºC then this element is most likely not being absorbed by the plant."

There is only a hint of ruderalis in her genetics which means that her buds are developing very timely, after only 16 hours of light.
It's not a hint of ruderalis, they list it as an autoflower, so no flipping needed.
 
Ah, the new Teaming with Bacteria... gotta get me a copy!
Ahhh... light bulb coming on.
I said our goal is a self-sustaining farm, Keff suggests learning about microbes. Makes sense. :thumb:
 
Brrr comes to mind.

Yes, I like having the extra house heat from an indoor grow. And it is much warmer in the grow room than in the rest of the house (like 75F).

"As previously mentioned, low temperatures will detrimentally affect the root system and the uptake of nutrients, particularly in the case of magnesium. This micro-nutrient is vital for the proper development of the cannabis plant and if the substrate is colder than 18ºC then this element is most likely not being absorbed by the plant."

Hmmm... I wonder what they do here to get magnesium uptake in an outdoor grow? (Because here they just put up a clear plastic tarp overhead (to shed water), and that is it.

It's not a hint of ruderalis, they list it as an autoflower, so no flipping needed.

Ahh, ok.
Thanks. I think I just need to try it.
 
I mean, I guess the thing is, I had some locals tell me that you can adapt the hot climate seeds to here. Just everything grows at half speed. But then, in a SIP it seems like everything grows at double speed, haha 😂
 
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