Carmen's Winter Autos With ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro!

[Weffalo]

Conclusion regarding the purchase of a dehumidifier for my winter grow

Hi Weff and thank you very much for this very useful information. Sorry it has taken me such an age to respond.

I will have to play it by ear. I am going to measure the humidity ongoing to plan for my next grows, but I won't use a dehuey this time as it is out of budget and probably not necessary in this climate, as Nick and I discussed. I simply cannot control the environment the way one would a tented grow and I have to prioritize gadgetry.

I will buy a hygrometer for sure. I bought this 7 fin oil heater from the local charity shop and that will help a lot I think.

Completely understandable @Carmen Ray - It's so bloody expensive for each appliance to control X environmental factor. And without a tent your right that it's gonna be super ineffiecient.

I use a 3fin oil heater in a much smaller space and it works a treat, not the worst to run electricity wise either

 

[Carmen Ray]

What are the primary factors that affect the quality of a grow?

1. Light
I will dedicate a section to the basics of the science of light, mainly because I don't remember light science from college days. I studied a year of sound and lighting tech because I had hoped to join the music industry. That didn't happen and the knowledge got buried so far in the recesses of memory that it can no longer be found.

Until now I have been using an entry level light and it wasn't quite enough so now that I am able to use these ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro lights I want to learn the basics of light science again and understand what I read on the charts so that I can max my bud potential!

2. Temperature

I have read that 24 to 30 degrees centigrade (75 to 85 F) is optimal for cannabis growth. Then I read more and it seems that temperature and humidity must vary between growth stages.

"Seedling Temperature​

• Temperature: 21-30 C (70–85°F) lights on / 18-26 C (65–80°F) lights off

Veg Room Temperature​

• Temperature: 21-30 C (70-85°F) lights on / 15 to 23 C (60-75°F) lights off

Flower Room Temperature​

• Temperature: 18-29 C (65-84°F) lights on / 15-23 C (60-75°F) lights off"

Now, I wonder if in my situation it might not be better to just settle on a steady temperature such as 22 C / 71.6 F with the aim of keeping it steady throughout the grow? Just for simplicity sake?

3. Humidity
I read that humidity should be between 40 % and 60 % and then I stumbled upon these numbers on the SURNA (cultivation facility design) website, which contradict that.

"Seedling Humidity​

• Humidity: 65-80%

Veg Room Humidity​

• Humidity: 55-70%, gradually lower humidity in 5% increments periodically until you reach the humidity that facilitates transplant to flower (do not go lower than 40%)

Flower Room Humidity and Temperature​

• Humidity: 40–60%"

4. Genetics

Leafly offer this information:

• Grow difficulty: Moderate
• Climate: Keep this strain between 20-26 C (68 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit) and avoid excessive moisture and humidity.

5. Water
Optimal watering will be achieved by sub-irrigating with a wick setup. I find that the plant derives enough moisture through the capillary action of the wicking soil, with some occasional minor top watering. The only challenges are getting the capillary action going and keeping it wicking at an optimal rate, by adding or subtracting wicks as necessary.

6. Medium & Nutrition
Orgasoilux living organic soil will feed the plants. A 20 Liter / 5 Gallon pot contains enough soil for my autos to get them through flower.

 

[Weffalo]

Now, I wonder if in my situation it might not be better to just settle on a steady temperature such as 22 C / 71.6 F with the aim of keeping it steady throughout the grow? Just for simplicity sake?

I don't think so Carmen, you'd be better having higher temps 27c for seedling/veg and then dropping those for flower, it's still simple because they are two completely different stages.

To keep it simple I would run 27c till 1st week of stretch/flower, then drop it to 25c for stretch and finally drop to 23c on weeks 5+, for the final 2 weeks ripening I do 21.8c/70f. I heard the lower temps help preserve terps and tastes during the final weeks but I can't link you a scientific source to back that up right now. But I know this is how Buds does things (With no doubt slightly different temperatures but the general premise of lowering is the same) and also Jeremy from BuildASoil who definitely knows his stuff

I actually use the BuildASoil schedule for my plants, and the only issue is that because I'm not using LoS/covercrop my C02 production is low and therefore I just need to dial the temps slightly lower than suggested here: Click for BAS Schedule (It has environment for each week including humidity and target VPD)

I know your using living organics though so you could probably get away with following it exactly? I'm not certain on that but it's what I do currently.

 

[StoneOtter]

Now, I wonder if in my situation it might not be better to just settle on a steady temperature such as 22 C / 71.6 F with the aim of keeping it steady throughout the grow? Just for simplicity sake?

Temp being the costly component of my grow I use a heat mat @18 watts for seedlings to help them get going. After that I hope that my conditions are "good enough" only getting concerned in flower when lights are blasting and maybe a skosh too close to some.

This is coming right up!

 

[NickHardy]

Conclusion regarding the purchase of a dehumidifier for my winter grow

Hi Weff and thank you very much for this very useful information. Sorry it has taken me such an age to respond.

I will have to play it by ear. I am going to measure the humidity ongoing to plan for my next grows, but I won't use a dehuey this time as it is out of budget and probably not necessary in this climate, as Nick and I discussed. I simply cannot control the environment the way one would a tented grow and I have to prioritize gadgetry.

I will buy a hygrometer for sure. I bought this 7 fin oil heater from the local charity shop and that will help a lot I think.

Great find! Exactly what you needed!

Nick

 

[Carmen Ray]

I don't think so Carmen, you'd be better having higher temps 27c for seedling/veg and then dropping those for flower, it's still simple because they are two completely different stages.

To keep it simple I would run 27c till 1st week of stretch/flower, then drop it to 25c for stretch and finally drop to 23c on weeks 5+, for the final 2 weeks ripening I do 21.8c/70f.

Thank you Weff. I have been testing the heater tonight because it is really cold. The bottom line is it burns too much electricity. If I can't use it it's fine though. I've done my previous grows without a heater. I had hoped an oil fin heater would use less electricity than the one I had but it's still brutal so it's likely not going to be used much if at all.

Temp being the costly component of my grow I use a heat mat @18 watts for seedlings to help them get going. After that I hope that my conditions are "good enough" only getting concerned in flower when lights are blasting and maybe a skosh too close to some.

This is coming right up!

Thank you Otter. I think that this is the path revealing itself to me too. I do manage to get seeds to sprout without a heat mat fortunately. I haven't needed one yet. I think that whilst I might try to aim for the temps you suggest, Weff, it might be difficult not being in a tent. Step 1 - buy hygrometer.

Great find! Exactly what you needed!

Nick

I'm hoping I can find an optimal setting on that dial in which enough heat is generated to warm up the room to the right temp and then a different setting to maintain it without burning a hole in my wallet. I need the hygrometer to measure the ambient temp before I can carry on with this investigation. The heater has two power switches and a full dial to fiddle with, as you see in the pic.

Thanks for the valuable input guys. It's much appreciated. It really helps me think things through and find solutions.

 

[InTheShed]

I had hoped an oil fin heater would use less electricity than the one I had but it's still brutal so it's likely not going to be used much if at all.

Those oil filled heaters run full blast for a while and then turn off for even longer while it cools down, so if you're reading the meter you should do it at the end of a 24 hour period rather than shortly after it's been turned on.

Also, anything you can do to keep the heat contained (like hang it within the black-out plastic bags) will lower the electric bill.

 

[Joe Brewster]

The bottom line is it burns too much electricity. If I can't use it it's fine though. I've done my previous grows without a heater. I had hoped an oil fin heater would use less electricity than the one I had but it's still brutal so it's likely not going to be used much if at all.

Did you ever look at my grow Carmen, I don't worry about getting up to the high temps . My room runs at about 14 - 21c I grow more than enough to keep my jars full. Also have no complaints about the quality

 

[Carmen Ray]

Did you ever look at my grow Carmen, I don't worry about getting up to the high temps . My room runs at about 14 - 21c I grow more than enough to keep my jars full. Also have no complaints about the quality

Thank you. I didn't see that photo until now, Joe. Where do you keep your journal? I'd like to see more.

Those oil filled heaters run full blast for a while and then turn off for even longer while it cools down, so if you're reading the meter you should do it at the end of a 24 hour period rather than shortly after it's been turned on.

Aha! Ok I will try again when it gets colder later.

Also, anything you can do to keep the heat contained (like hang it within the black-out plastic bags) will lower the electric bill.

I'm not using a tenting structure like black bags this time. I did that for the photoperiod plants I grew because they needed a dark period. I decided against photoperiods this time due to ongoing disturbances with our electricity grid. This fin heater is large and bulky. It will have to remain on the floor. The room is 3,90 m (150 inches) x 5,72 m (220 inches) square. and there is a passage 4,16 m (160 inches) x 1,04 m (40 inches) square, directly off the living room leading to my bedroom, which is the size of a postage stamp 3,38 m (130 inches) x 3,38 m (130 inches) square. That is the size and shape that has to heat. There is a lot of glass too which lets the light in and also the cold We'll see how it goes when I have the hygrometer to measure with.

 

[Joe Brewster]

Thank you. I didn't see that photo until now, Joe. Where do you keep your journal? I'd like to see more.

The blog is my journal scroll down the comments to see the rest. I just took down the Girl scout cookies. I started it 28 days into flower because we were testing out the new blog system.
I'm not much of a journalist or typist. I'll answer questions if you ask
The Gsc & TB were the ones I showed you before with no tie down training

 

[Carmen Ray]

The blog is my journal scroll down the comments to see the rest. I just took down the Girl scout cookies. I started it 28 days into flower because we were testing out the new blog system.
I'm not much of a journalist or typist. I'll answer questions if you ask
The Gsc & TB were the ones I showed you before with no tie down training

I took another look. Thanks Joe. I battle to find my way in the blog system. How do I search by member, for example, to find their blogs? Your growing conditions sound similar to mine.

 

[Joe Brewster]

I took another look. Thanks Joe. I battle to find my way in the blog system. How do I search by member, for example, to find their blogs? Your growing conditions sound similar to mine.

On the main header go to 420 forums > click search forums, click search blogs & Type in the info
Also, on main header 420 blogs > blog entries or blog comments for the latest posts

 

[Carmen Ray]

On the main header go to 420 forums > click search forums, click search blogs & Type in the info
Also, on main header 420 blogs > blog entries or blog comments for the latest posts

Thanks!

 

[NickHardy]

Heya!

Some thoughts for ya:

I'm hoping I can find an optimal setting on that dial in which enough heat is generated to warm up the room to the right temp and then a different setting to maintain it without burning a hole in my wallet.

Stick it on 1/10 or what ever the equivalent is. The lowest setting you can go down half a notch. Wait two days. Really two days. See how its looking then temperature wise and what the unit use was. Then assuming it stays good after 2 days check the unit use. You may be better served after to turn it up to say 1.5 or 2 to account for maybe a blast every two hours is better than a steady burn.

Dial it in. But start at the lowest setting. Its going to get colder too so you’ll be adjusting. Watch that front door on deliveries!

The blog is my journal scroll down the comments to see the rest.

Yeah I followed a couple. Thought about it ffpr a journal. Asked about. For me its just a pain unless as a wiser person than me said - great for single issue tutorial thing - like “Supercrop Here” or similar. Bill probably has plenty stuff.
But for a grow journal it would be a nightmare to keep up with so I feel your pain dude!

Sorry Carmen for my Blog thing feedback hijack!

Nick

Super Silver Sour Diesel Haze (S1 Pheno) oof!

 

[Carmen Ray]

Stick it on 1/10 or what ever the equivalent is. The lowest setting you can go down half a notch. Wait two days. Really two days. See how its looking then temperature wise and what the unit use was. Then assuming it stays good after 2 days check the unit use. You may be better served after to turn it up to say 1.5 or 2 to account for maybe a blast every two hours is better than a steady burn.

Dial it in. But start at the lowest setting. Its going to get colder too so you’ll be adjusting. Watch that front door on deliveries!

This is such a clever, practical suggestion. Thanks Nick. I am going to wait for the next cold snap which feels on its way already brrrr.

I went to a coffee shop today called Nature's Farmacy. Biltong & Buds seed and grow shop have a spot there. I believe (although didn't look for it) there is a mini dispensary with a bud tender. Maybe Lerugged will know more. Nice coffee.

Anyway I spotted a soil mix which is new to me. It's their house brand. It's a living soil blend. I am now curious and investigating. It's about the same price as the Dirty Hands Inc LOS, maybe a hundred or so cheaper, but then it requires nutes they say. I still haven't optimized my use of the Dirty hands Inc, so I don't want to change it out completely. I was considering a comparative grow, one of each. Depends what nutes they are recommending. Whadaya think? If anyone is interested in comparing and advising, I have linked the soils to their online descriptions above.

 

[Joe Brewster]

But for a grow journal it would be a nightmare to keep up with so I feel your pain dude!

How so. It's no harder than making a journal. One thing different is you can make it so no one else can post & clutter it up with chit chat. Great if you want to go back & view what you did before

 

[NickHardy]

How so. It's no harder than making a journal. One thing different is you can make it so no one else can post & clutter it up with chit chat. Great if you want to go back & view what you did before

I think you nail it there. Sorry I thought I was saying I think great for fantastic “How to’s” Like Bill’s Method or many people with myriad orher techniques - I’m following one on LOS methods through history. Its not my thing at all but loved what I’ve read so far. But its more documentary.

Doing a seed to smoke journal in Blog would be tough.They’re all so different. Just my 2’s

Nick

 

[InTheShed]

Anyway I spotted a soil mix which is new to me. It's their house brand. It's a living soil blend. I am now curious and investigating. It's about the same price as the Dirty Hands Inc LOS, maybe a hundred or so cheaper, but then it requires nutes they say. I still haven't optimized my use of the Dirty hands Inc, so I don't want to change it out completely. I was considering a comparative grow, one of each. Depends what nutes they are recommending. Whadaya think? If anyone is interested in comparing and advising, I have linked the soils to their online descriptions above.

I can't offer advice on water only growing but if you feel like learning a new soil, why not?

That said, if you like one over the other I would suggest sticking with that soil going forward. There are so many other variables that having a constant is a blessing!

One thing different is you can make it so no one else can post & clutter it up with chit chat.

I'm not sure what the advantage is of having a grow blog that no one else can post in. Seems the same as keeping notes and pics in a Word doc on your computer.

 

[Joe Brewster]

I'm not sure what the advantage is of having a grow blog that no one else can post in. Seems the same as keeping notes and pics in a Word doc on your computer.

And if you lose a hard drive or computer crash & don't keep backups, this would be your backup

 

[InTheShed]

And if you lose a hard drive or computer crash & don't keep backups, this would be your backup

I guess. Pretty specific use though.