Candy Canna Multi-Strain In Candyland

[MrSauga]

I have to run out for a bit but I'm going to update my journal and show some pics of what a plant typically looks like when underfed MC and the things to look for.
I'm not sure yours is from overfeeding yet, but when you see the plants do what yours are doing then normally you have to back off the nute amount.

I only originally thought with the rust on her that she was deficient because of the low level that I was at

Correct, but if I read you correctly that rust started on the lowest leaves first, showing it's a mobile deficiency. Calcium def would be immobile and would always start near the top first. Mg is one that would start from the bottom but you wouldn't see rusting as much as you would interveinal chlorosis.

 

[candycane]

So I do have a question. Since my RO with DI strips everything out of my water (from what I understood making it acidic) and my tap water has very hard water would maybe adding some tap water to my RO water mixing it up help with the alkalinity of my too high and too low alkalinity of them separately? I’m not seeing any issues with any of the other girls I just don’t want to get so far down the road then have crazy stuff start happening if there is something I can do now to help prevent that. I haven’t been in a buffered medium until now so I honestly haven’t in the past really thought that much in depth about it until now.

 

[MrSauga]

The fact the other girls are doing fine leads me to believe the water is fine as well. If you did a slurry test on all the pots you can compare the results but I think they'll all come out close to the same result.

 

[candycane]

The fact the other girls are doing fine leads me to believe the water is fine as well. If you did a slurry test on all the pots you can compare the results but I think they'll all come out close to the same result.

Thank you I guess I just got a little concerned because of the warning about low alkalinity of most RO water that said it can cause the PH of the medium to drop to low unacceptable levels. I definitely don’t think I’m there or I’m sure I’d be showing something I just didn’t want to wind up there later on by continuing to give possibly acidic water. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, I just didn’t want to under think it either.

 

[MrSauga]

Thank you I guess I just got a little concerned because of the warning about low alkalinity of most RO water that said it can cause the PH of the medium to drop to low unacceptable levels.

When you have some time try a slurry test to put your mind at ease or at stress levels. At least you'll know and can determine it it's an issue.

Soil pH & PPM / EC Slurry Test - Step by Step Guide with Photos - The Growing Rack

thegrowingrack.com

 

[MrSauga]

A couple of other things that may clear up the alkalinity understanding. If your alkalinity is low and as long as the fertilizer has potential basicity then you would minimize pH drop. Megacrop has two parts of N, Nitrate and Ammonical.
One gram of MC produces 23ppm of Nitrate and 2ppm of Ammonical. So you can see it has a potential basicity to it.

Water Alkalinity
Water alkalinity is a measurement of carbonates and/or bicarbonates in the water, or another way to put it, is the amount of limestone dissolved in the irrigation water. The higher the alkalinity, the faster the pH of the growing medium climbs regardless of the water pH. If water is passed through a reverse osmosis unit, then alkalinity is very low, so the water does not cause the pH of the growing media to rise quickly. Reverse osmosis units are not necessary for most water sources if the fertilizer is properly matched to the water profile and the crop grown.

Fertilizer
Quality water soluble fertilizers typically have the potential acidity or potential basicity posted on their labels to predict their influence on the pH of soilless growing medium, such as PRO-MIX and others. For example, the higher the potential acidity of the fertilizer, the more acid it is. This is often determined by the ratio of nitrogen forms. Ammonium and urea are acidic forms of nitrogen which cause growing medium pH to drop and nitrate is basic which causes growing medium pH to rise. Therefore, if your water has high alkalinity, a fertilizer that has a higher ratio of ammonium to nitrate can be used to minimize pH climb in a growing medium. Also, as a rule, most calcium-based fertilizers are alkaline and cause the pH of the growing medium to increase even if the water goes through a reverse osmosis unit.

Hope that helps a bit.

 

[candycane]

A couple of other things that may clear up the alkalinity understanding. If your alkalinity is low and as long as the fertilizer has potential basicity then you would minimize pH drop. Megacrop has two parts of N, Nitrate and Ammonical.
One gram of MC produces 23ppm of Nitrate and 2ppm of Ammonical. So you can see it has a potential basicity to it.

Water Alkalinity
Water alkalinity is a measurement of carbonates and/or bicarbonates in the water, or another way to put it, is the amount of limestone dissolved in the irrigation water. The higher the alkalinity, the faster the pH of the growing medium climbs regardless of the water pH. If water is passed through a reverse osmosis unit, then alkalinity is very low, so the water does not cause the pH of the growing media to rise quickly. Reverse osmosis units are not necessary for most water sources if the fertilizer is properly matched to the water profile and the crop grown.

Fertilizer
Quality water soluble fertilizers typically have the potential acidity or potential basicity posted on their labels to predict their influence on the pH of soilless growing medium, such as PRO-MIX and others. For example, the higher the potential acidity of the fertilizer, the more acid it is. This is often determined by the ratio of nitrogen forms. Ammonium and urea are acidic forms of nitrogen which cause growing medium pH to drop and nitrate is basic which causes growing medium pH to rise. Therefore, if your water has high alkalinity, a fertilizer that has a higher ratio of ammonium to nitrate can be used to minimize pH climb in a growing medium. Also, as a rule, most calcium-based fertilizers are alkaline and cause the pH of the growing medium to increase even if the water goes through a reverse osmosis unit.

Hope that helps a bit.

! Yes that’s helps ALOT! I already feel a ton better about it now. I’ll still do a slurry test just so I can see where I’m sitting at but yes indeed thank you for that last bit of info

 

[candycane]

Update
LOGC day 49, ATF & African day 48, Afghani day 46, HG day 38, BM day 31. I did a slurry test on African and LOGC I checked at 30 mins, 45 mins & an hour and got 5.8 PH results on all. I’m not going to bother with the others right now I just wanted to do one that was givin me trouble and one that was doing good. I’ll be moving ATF, LOGC and HG over to the tents sometime this week more than likely, not flowering them yet but it’s getting close to time. Here’s some pics for proof of life

236F2462-3D10-4C36-9AD9-680477DD4E3A.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

Left to right Blue Monster, ATF, Lemon OG Candy

CED2D947-E5E9-44C6-BF3A-29EFBFEF1503.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

Right to left Himalaya Gold, Afghani #1, African Meltdown

97C43137-7F92-4198-9422-2044B017202C.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

Lemon OG Candy day 49

CE6A42BF-9262-4B0B-87EF-5D7BF7063E1C.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

ATF day 48

E485EF61-2E6E-4536-827C-93A09B6871C3.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

Blue Monster day 31

38FF95E6-1FDA-4802-A302-83EE0698B910.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

Himalaya Gold day 38

F833E858-B780-407E-B7A6-1CB20E072CB0.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

Afghani #1 day 46

C5117994-06A3-4C5F-8EA1-C0F9D9EEC39D.jpeg

• candycane
• Apr 26, 2020

African Meltdown day 48

 

[MrSauga]

I did a slurry test on African and LOGC I checked at 30 mins, 45 mins & an hour and got 5.8 PH results on all.

Now you know!
Good job!

 

[Carcass]

Here’s some pics for proof of life

Alive and well!
The AM is a little slow, but I think she'll kick it into gear real soon.

 

[candycane]

Now you know!
Good job!

Yes indeedy do and thank you!

Alive and well!
The AM is a little slow, but I think she'll kick it into gear real soon.

Thank you and Yeah that AM she’s a wee one! She didn’t bounce back real quick from the topping and lower node removal awhile back. Haven’t had that happen yet but there’s a first time for everything!

 

[candycane]

Update on problem child
To me she looks like she’s getting slightly worse. I noticed it starting on the edges of two pairs of uppers that wasn’t there before, at least I don’t recall seeing it there. She is still a lil too heavy to water today but should be good by tomorrow for whatever I need to do. I wonder should I maybe give her another lowered feed at 3.5gr/g and see how she does or drop even lower to 3gr/g? @MrSauga what do you think? I brought her out into the more natural light to hopefully get a better look at her overall color and issues of the rust.

 

[bluter]

it's not bad.

looks a little hungry.

just ph properly if you are worried about it. ph'ing never hurt anything buffered or not, and takes piles of issues off the table before you have to go guessing.

 

[Carcass]

I wonder if it could be a fungus attacking those leaves?...the grayish color doesn't really look like a nute problem, at least not to me...but I'm not an expert.... my current plant will attest to that

 

[MrSauga]

I wonder should I maybe give her another lowered feed at 3.5gr/g and see how she does or drop even lower to 3gr/g?

If you're not seeing any fungus then I would do one more feed at 3.5g before doing anything else. All the damage is along the edges of the leaf?
I know it's hard for you to get close ups but anything a little closer would help
Honestly I don't see it being hungry. It's not yellowing so I just don't see that. It may just be a mutant as some of those leaves look mottled.

 

[actionjackson512003]

Update on problem child
To me she looks like she’s getting slightly worse. I noticed it starting on the edges of two pairs of uppers that wasn’t there before, at least I don’t recall seeing it there. She is still a lil too heavy to water today but should be good by tomorrow for whatever I need to do. I wonder should I maybe give her another lowered feed at 3.5gr/g and see how she does or drop even lower to 3gr/g? @MrSauga what do you think? I brought her out into the more natural light to hopefully get a better look at her overall color and issues of the rust.

At one point did those leafs rest on the soil? I know for me, when I did some LSTing the bottom leaves touched the soil for a little while while wet and ended looking like that, I'll try and find a photo to compare.

 

[actionjackson512003]

I did have a lot of problems with this plant, but I think this was from resting on the soil

 

[candycane]

Thanks for all the help y’all! The leaves no touchy the medium. I tried to get some better up close pics, hands just shakey so up close shots never work well for me but here’s what I could get. I hope this helps some! She has been showing a lot of mutant signs from the beginning, the right side was the normal side but now that side is having asymmetrical nodes as well. Growing a lot like a clone.

 

[MrSauga]

OK let her run her course for a couple of days. Some of the leaves look like genetic issues and the new growth looks good so she may just be a finicky little girl the whole grow.

 

[bluter]

looks hungry.

tipping at end and along the very edge is a def. loads read it as a tox. both need to be present for a def.
my best guess is potassium def.

from another site

Potassium2_6.jpg

• bluter
• Apr 28, 2020

potassium def

that's advanced. shows on older leaves first.

i'm trolling thru my pics so you can see what it looked on mine ..