Build Your Own LED Grow Light

DrDoob said:
Finally got my Timber kit built. I guess since it’s a kit it’s only half DIY, but I’m very happy with the frame I made. Just a couple more tweaks and it’s good to hang.
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Looks great...just thinking it would be pretty cool to do a rustic timber frame....how hot do these boards get?
 
Nice idea blew! You could always just use some Alu strips under any warm parts that contact the frame... would look really nice ... and then really be a Timber light ;)

Super build Doob, as i already told you some where else! (Just keeping the thread continuity clean...) :thumb:
 
SOG001 said:
I have a question. For flowering which is best the Vero BXRC27E10KO-D-73 SE OR THE BXRC17E10KO-D-73SE?
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2700K 80CRI vs. 1750K 80 CRI (meat chip), right?


The latter is not good on its own, but many people use them to supplement 2700k - 4000K, I think 1/5 of these COBs is fine to supplement the main light with red for a flower boost.

The supplement can also be acheived with 660nm monodiodes.

Soon Samsung is going to release their new LH351B Red News | SAMSUNG LED | Samsung LED Global Website
Depending on how soon they're released and what shape they come out in this will most likely be the best way to supplement some extra red.
 
Pyr0 said:
Is it worth getting the LM301b boards now or are the LM561c based ones still best value ?
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If we're talking about HLG's boards, then I'd go with V2 any day, the price difference per diode is not very big.

Try looking at Atreum boards, LG did some tests and it has the same output as QB288 V2, they're $75 per board and a heatsink is included, pretty good deal.

If you compare Samsung F-series (LM561c) to their H inFlux (LM301b) line there's a decent price per diode difference, but not a big enough for those who love light or those doing small builds to not choose the H inFlux strips :)
 
Ah! Ok, this is something I did not know. I was under the assumption that HLG used Samsung diodes exclusively.
On the surface, it looks like a pretty nice setup with the mix of 2700 and 3000K colors and also the mix of 80 and 90 CRI.
It also looks like you get another 60 watts of power at 320 for only a nominal price difference from the V2 260 watt setups.
 
MiOutdoorsman said:
PGR, thanks for posting this thread! I'm looking into QB's in the future. I have some reading to catch up on trying to decide what driver/driver's to get. Thanks again
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Driver totally dictated by the boards you get, # of bds, and if you want 100% light available, as well as a separate dimmer, none or on the driver

I like a driver with 100% capability and a separate dimmer

I learned the hard way, git the wrong driver, so holler if ya need help
 
If you find the driver's spec sheets, most any of them, it will show you the different aspects of the driver's, a d what they mean

Then match it up to the wats and ma of the lights

Easy peasy

But once ya pick yer bds, holler and I can help ya out
 
Chris Scorpio said:
Driver totally dictated by the boards you get, # of bds, and if you want 100% light available, as well as a separate dimmer, none or on the driver

I like a driver with 100% capability and a separate dimmer

I learned the hard way, git the wrong driver, so holler if ya need help
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Yeah , i agree..

Id love to trade my 1400B for 2100B, or could of paid $10 more for it from the start,SMH.
 
Mayne said:
Yeah , i agree..

Id love to trade my 1400B for 2100B, or could of paid $10 more for it from the start,SMH.
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Yup

I got 1750b at 1st

But know I know
 
Chris Scorpio said:
Yup

I got 1750b at 1st

But know I know
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Everyone gets hypnotized into the whole "efficiency" Bullcrap, " get the 1400b and run them low", pssssssssss, so over rated.
 
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