SSgrower
Well-Known Member
I have 1 ft. tall planter stands I was using sometimes, when the gals got to close to the lighting I'd drop em down that extra ft. and be ok till harvest usually. SS
Bruce Banner Marries A Watermelon - SIP Grow
- Thread starter Ke0ncp
- Start date
Greengoodness
Well-Known Member
I saved clean 2x4 lumber blocks i keep for building up pots underneith them like leggos and i have milk crates.
Stonecrusher
Well-Known Member
Mr ShedSomething to keep in mind (especially since you're already well above the MC numbers I use for flower) is that high levels of potassium can lock out calcium.
This just broke my brain.
Stonecrusher
Well-Known Member
They are looking full and bushy! Im at day 30 on my autoflower run, and have been applying LST so they are a little smaller than yours, but looking good still. I wonder how they would be doing in a SIP?Day 30 and Day 20 of veg:
Ok here we are at day 30! I’m still thinking tomorrow is flip day.
Fed them again this morning but did not fill the reservoirs. Going to make them work a little to get their water as by the end of the day the leaves are full and droopy. They are about as perky as they get in the photos below.
My controller finally came in and it was pretty fun to set that up and watch. I can see pretty big swings in VPD when the humidity drops, so I ordered a humidifier with a larger basin so that I can last 24 hours or more.
Also time to replace the carbon in the filters as they are no longer as effective in keeping aroma down haha.
Edit: I forgot to mention I raised the banner a bit to match the canopy height of the WG. This weekend I will work out getting them all to the same canopy level.
Me too. After about 1000 looks at it, it's starting to make sense.... Sometimes. Put it down, pick it up. Repeat.
Greenbushscrogger
Well-Known Member
I was looking at purchasing milk crates for this purpose. Things are ridiculous in price for what they are.
- Thread starter
- #147
This is a great idea, I’m going to level it all out this weekend.
It broke mine too! And the more I stare at it the more I see this:
I bet that would be doing great! I am loving SIP so far!
JiggiLotus
Well-Known Member
Couldn't you just snag a few from behind the grocery store ? They stack em up by the dumpsters and stuff.
JiggiLotus
Well-Known Member
Also... Good morning 
!!! It's flip day for your girls!! 
!!! It's flip day for your girls!! 
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Sort of right. If he got the ppm of the base water and got that tested the ppm added by the salts should be listed with percentage for each mineral by the manufacturer. There's also nutrient calculators to tell you exactly what's in each formula.
All of MC version have high Ca since one of the main ingredients are Calcium nitrate in all of their versions. You shouldn't have to add any Calmag to MC if you look at the mineral ratios and percentages. The only reason people see benefits from adding Calmag products with MC is because of the pH buffering aspect. There's 7.5% Ca and 3.5% Mg in MC, that's more than Canna Coco and most traditional Calmag formulas.
Greenbushscrogger
Well-Known Member
My luck I'd get in trouble. I'll ask next time I'm at the store.
Greenbushscrogger
Well-Known Member
So is this sip method kinda like an earth box?This is a great idea, I’m going to level it all out this weekend.
It broke mine too! And the more I stare at it the more I see this:
I bet that would be doing great! I am loving SIP so far!
- Thread starter
- #153
Yes it isAlso... Good morning
official update to come once I get home in a few hours. Yes pretty much. Check out the SIP Club thread for all things SIP related
Greenbushscrogger
Well-Known Member
Omw thanks.Yes it is
Yes pretty much. Check out the SIP Club thread for all things SIP related
- Thread starter
- #155
Day 31 day 1 of flower transition:
Here we are on Friday Flip Day. Lights are set to go off in about 15mins to start their new 12/12 schedule.
They got fed today with 5g/gal and a full dose of cal/mag.
I am going to level out the canopy tomorrow and adjust lights to 13” above. Lights were only turned to 100% about 46 mins ago so they did not get a full 12 hours at the 100%.
I also noticed that the WG and the Watermelon have roots right at the drain hole and on the watermelon the roots actually blocked the hole and I cleared it out. Seems that on all of them the roots might actually be inhibiting the water level indicator from functioning properly. Don’t think that’s going to be an issue moving forward though.
Here we are on Friday Flip Day. Lights are set to go off in about 15mins to start their new 12/12 schedule.
They got fed today with 5g/gal and a full dose of cal/mag.
I am going to level out the canopy tomorrow and adjust lights to 13” above. Lights were only turned to 100% about 46 mins ago so they did not get a full 12 hours at the 100%.
I also noticed that the WG and the Watermelon have roots right at the drain hole and on the watermelon the roots actually blocked the hole and I cleared it out. Seems that on all of them the roots might actually be inhibiting the water level indicator from functioning properly. Don’t think that’s going to be an issue moving forward though.
The Earthbox is the original SIP, "invented" by a Florida USA tomato farmer. The SIP Club thread highlights growers using the Earthboxes and other commercial versions as well as many diy versions.
You can always use the slosh test to gauge where the water level is!
My post was completely right, not sort of. Yes, there are absolutely ways to determine the makeup of your PPM, but Ke0ncp isn't doing any of them. He was using MC and then adding calmag to get to a specific PPM number. To him, the "total ppm doesn't tell you anything about what makes up those ppm!" Understand now?
- Thread starter
- #158
I’m learning here so little bits at a time haha
So are there test kits that can show me what the makeup is?
I know in the aquarium world there are master test kits than can break down pretty much everything you need to know.
Same with pool water.
Home brewing there is known water makeup for most major cities.
I’m assuming there is a pretty readily available way to get my water composition, and then once my nutes are added what it looks like without sending it to a lab?
I’m not trying to make my grows overly technical or difficult, however, I would like to know what the base line is and what I add to it is actually doing, if that makes any sense at all?
Let me hit this pipe again and re-read this…..
Wait what?
If you're seriously interested in feeding on a PPM basis, it can start with an analysis of your tap water ( I don't bother with that). No need if you're using RO though, but regular tap water will have at least calcium and magnesium along with some micros. Then you find an online or downloadable calculator and start entering into the database all the elements that are listed on the "guaranteed analysis" part of the label on your nutes. After that you can put in how much of each nute you're using and it will tell you what the PPM are for each element. Or you can tell it what you'd like to have of each element and it will do its best to get you there with the nutes you're using.
Very few folks on the site work with that level of detail as most are using nutes that come with a feeding guide (like MC) or have used trial and error to get to something that works for them.
Very few folks on the site work with that level of detail as most are using nutes that come with a feeding guide (like MC) or have used trial and error to get to something that works for them.
- Thread starter
- #160
So very much like brewing. I think I have all of my local water info in a spreadsheet around here somewhere.
So many rabbit holes to travel
Thanks for the info I will take a poke around the google and see what kind of premade calculator I can find and mess around with it.