Good catch on the cal/mag def. coming on!
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Looks like my ADHD route throughout the day lolSomething to keep in mind (especially since you're already well above the MC numbers I use for flower) is that high levels of potassium can lock out calcium.
Did you start adding calmag because you saw either deficiency? As I recall most of the newer versions of MC have plenty of Ca in them, and as you can see in that chart, excess Ca can lock out Mg.Good heads up there. I will have to do some reading on that.
Last thing I want to do is to push to far / over complicate the grow.
I’m going to keep an eye on it and maybe ease back down to the 4.5-5g/gal of MC and just add in the cal/mag.
That chart makes my head hurt though hahaha. I will have to read about that.
Is that Greenleaf's ppm zone you're referring to? Remember that total ppm doesn't tell you anything about what makes up those ppm!I premixed tomorrow’s feeding today and backed the MC down to 4.5g/gal and a full dose of cal/mag which brings the water to 759ppm. So right in the middle of the recommended zone.
Yeah I was noticing what looked like a cal/mag def.They're looking nice!
Did you start adding calmag because you saw either deficiency? As I recall most of the newer versions of MC have plenty of Ca in them, and as you can see in that chart, excess Ca can lock out Mg.
Is that Greenleaf's ppm zone you're referring to? Remember that total ppm doesn't tell you anything about what makes up those ppm!
The original instructions for MC were to bump the amount by .25 or .5 grams/gallon if you saw any deficiency rather than add another product. And I never get over 4.5g/gal in veg, which can last 100 days.Yeah I was noticing what looked like a cal/mag def.
The ppm zone I was talking about was from doing some reading on the web. But there is a good chance I am not fully understanding what makes up the ppm then as I was assuming was water ppm + additions to get to 700 - 800 ppm during veg.
I've always struggled with low pH with MC without adding any buffers like potassium silicate and/or bicarbonate and I think this might be the culprit. It all depends on the water source and what's already in it.The original instructions for MC were to bump the amount by .25 or .5 grams/gallon if you saw any deficiency rather than add another product. And I never get over 4.5g/gal in veg, which can last 100 days.
And I don't recommend using other folks ppm numbers unless you're using their nutes at the same ratios under similar conditions.
Soil doesn't need any pH adjustment to the input water. The pH of the soil determines the plant's health, not the pH of the water.I've always struggled with low pH with MC without adding any buffers like potassium silicate and/or bicarbonate and I think this might be the culprit. It all depends on the water source and what's already in it.
That's very broad speaking without any data to work with? I think one doesn't have to exclude the other? Without any soil tests it sounds like you're only shooting in the dark?Soil doesn't need any pH adjustment to the input water. The pH of the soil determines the plant's health, not the pH of the water.
Soil buffers pH. It's not a set rule, it's a scientific fact. Within 60 minutes the pH of your water will be the pH of the soil. It's why the two methods of pH testing soil (slurry and pour-through) are the industry standard for finding out if your soil pH is correct, whether in a field or in pots as small as plant flats at the nursery.I think one doesn't have to exclude the other? Without any soil tests it sound like you're only shooting in the dark? How do you even define soil? Is it only real compost and super soils without any inerts, outdoor indoor? I think you should read, follow and treat for plant symptoms, not blindly following set rules.
Yes soil buffers pH, you should read up on what's in said soil and that's the point I try to put forward. You can't say soil buffers pH without knowing what's in it. Is it naturally very acidic or alkaline? Soil is a very broad term and to treat local problems you may have to include things like gypsum and lime to make native soil feasible for growing Cannabis.Soil buffers pH. It's not a set rule, it's a scientific fact. Within 60 minutes the pH of your water will be the pH of the soil. It's why the two methods of pH testing soil (slurry and pour-through) are the industry standard for finding out if your soil is correct, whether in a field or in pots as small as plant flats at the nursery.
If you want to discuss soil science that's different conversation for a different thread. But raising or lowering the pH of your water will not fix soil that is not in the correct pH range for cannabis (~6.3-6.8). And the pH of Ke0ncp's MC water has no effect on the health of his plants. There is no need for him to change the pH of his MC solution.Yes soil buffers pH, you should read up on what's in said soil and that point I try to put forward. You can't say soil buffers pH without knowing what's in it. Is it naturally very acidic or alkaline? Soil is a very broad term and to treat local problems you may have to include things like gypsum and lime to make native soil feasible for growing Cannabis.
Testing soil pH can done to determine if there is a pH problem. If there is, you need to correct it by either making the soil more acidic or more basic. That is not done by changing the pH of the water you use to water your plants with.Yeah sure "soil buffers pH", your job is to know where that is and if that's the optimal and how and if you need to treat it with amendments. How do you think super soils keep pH stable if not from their inputs? Mykos have no brain thinking like, guys we need to reach pH 6.5.
We’ll shit…….. that thought never even crossed my mind!! I’m going to to that right now!!Don't forget you can use risers for leveling the canopy as well!