Blooming question

An article such as would be published in something for gardeners and growers where the author is willing to post their real name? Or an article which is a posting on a Cannabis growing forum like this one where remaining anonymous is recommended for privacy and security concerns.

Did they explain what a "neutral soil" was?
what the @#$% Really what changes with nutrients for auto's - NOTHING - only change is/are the amounts given to plants if that !!! They are marijuana plants @SmokingWings
 
what the @#$% Really what changes with nutrients for auto's - NOTHING - only change is/are the amounts given to plants if that !!! They are marijuana plants @SmokingWings
What are you talking about? I have the feeling that you did not read the messages or who wrote them and immediately jumped....

I was also questioning the idea of 1/2 doses but without knowing the source and doing some research I was not going to jump all over someone.

So, to be more on point, someone else mentioned all that. I asked for the source since I am thinking of deliberately growing a few autos this summer and 1/2 dose for autos would be something else to experiment with.
 
What are you talking about? I have the feeling that you did not read the messages or who wrote them and immediately jumped....

I was also questioning the idea of 1/2 doses but without knowing the source and doing some research I was not going to jump all over someone.

So, to be more on point, someone else mentioned all that. I asked for the source since I am thinking of deliberately growing a few autos this summer and 1/2 dose for autos would be something else to experiment with.
What are you talking about? I have the feeling that you did not read the messages or who wrote them and immediately jumped....

I was also questioning the idea of 1/2 doses but without knowing the source and doing some research I was not going to jump all over someone.

So, to be more on point, someone else mentioned all that. I asked for the source since I am thinking of deliberately growing a few autos this summer and 1/2 dose for autos would be something else to experiment with.
sorry I mis-understtod you __Peace
 
I just read an article that said Nute schedules like the FF i'm using are meant for photoperiod and it you us them on autos you should cut it down to 1/2 or less the strength, what are your thoughts?
i gather neither of you agree with that article?
I read the article several times. Decently written with a good command of sentence structure and spelling which are important. These make it easier to follow when an author is trying to explain the points they are trying to make.

Problem is that there is no explanation of what is happening when the method is used and why it works. No mention of what the grower will see happening to their plants and how they will know that the method is working. No mention of what his experimental grows with his method were like.

He gets into growing with inert grow mediums like coco coir or peat moss blends but most of the article is about using a mineral soil. My take is that he is recommending using a typical Cannabis potting soil blend which already has compost and several amendments added. Then the grower mixes in some of the nutrients they will be using throughout the grow and pre-amends the soil again. This is on top of amendments some growers have already added such as Perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, kelp meal, etc.

After adding their own amendments and then amending with some of the fertilizers they will be using they can plant the seed and let nature do its thing. Once the seed sprouts they can start using 1/4 to 1/2 doses after the 2nd week. To me it sounds like the pre-amendments are nothing more than an early 1/2 dose and that might be why a 1/2 dose per week afterwards could work.

Savings were a big point of his but if the grower adds amendments before the grow starts and then half doses afterwards I don't see that savings are that big of a deal. Since he did not say that this method will increase the size or quality of the harvest any savings do not seem like a major consideration. I think most growers would be happy to spend a dollar more a week for more weight and better quality.

I did notice that he mentioned several times that a flushing is recommended for these soil grows as a way to improve the taste, reduce harshness and increase terpine aromas.
 
I read the article several times. Decently written with a good command of sentence structure and spelling which are important. These make it easier to follow when an author is trying to explain the points they are trying to make.

Problem is that there is no explanation of what is happening when the method is used and why it works. No mention of what the grower will see happening to their plants and how they will know that the method is working. No mention of what his experimental grows with his method were like.

He gets into growing with inert grow mediums like coco coir or peat moss blends but most of the article is about using a mineral soil. My take is that he is recommending using a typical Cannabis potting soil blend which already has compost and several amendments added. Then the grower mixes in some of the nutrients they will be using throughout the grow and pre-amends the soil again. This is on top of amendments some growers have already added such as Perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, kelp meal, etc.

After adding their own amendments and then amending with some of the fertilizers they will be using they can plant the seed and let nature do its thing. Once the seed sprouts they can start using 1/4 to 1/2 doses after the 2nd week. To me it sounds like the pre-amendments are nothing more than an early 1/2 dose and that might be why a 1/2 dose per week afterwards could work.

Savings were a big point of his but if the grower adds amendments before the grow starts and then half doses afterwards I don't see that savings are that big of a deal. Since he did not say that this method will increase the size or quality of the harvest any savings do not seem like a major consideration. I think most growers would be happy to spend a dollar more a week for more weight and better quality.

I did notice that he mentioned several times that a flushing is recommended for these soil grows as a way to improve the taste, reduce harshness and increase terpine aromas.
I used the nutes according to FF and it was too much and became evident in flowering. I've since flushed twice and cut the nutes in half, for good or bad. The plant seems to be doing fine. I think his recommendation was spot on in this case.
 
I think it's not as dark green after 2 flushes, will the leaves correct themselves or stay a little clawed (assuming I don't over/underwater or too much Nitrogen lol)?

IMG_6366.JPG
 
I think it's not as dark green after 2 flushes, will the leaves correct themselves or stay a little clawed (assuming I don't over/underwater or too much Nitrogen lol)?

IMG_6366.JPG
The leaves will remain clawed, but the new leaves should be fine.
 
I used the nutes according to FF and it was too much and became evident in flowering. I've since flushed twice and cut the nutes in half, for good or bad. The plant seems to be doing fine. I think his recommendation was spot on in this case.
I understand but he does not explain why.

I have been trying to work out a water only basic soil and also have to reduce the amount and frequency of my use of the Roots Organic Terp Tea Grow and their Bloom. Instead of the 1/3 each of Compost, Peat Moss and Perlite my mix is 2 parts Compost and 1 part each of the other two. Since the other two are inert the Compost is where the bulk of the nutrients are coming from, When using a full dose of the Terp Tea problems start to show up in the growth of the plants.

The author of that article does not say why he makes the recommendation nor does he say what it is a blanket statement to do it with all auto-flowers.
 
I understand but he does not explain why.

I have been trying to work out a water only basic soil and also have to reduce the amount and frequency of my use of the Roots Organic Terp Tea Grow and their Bloom. Instead of the 1/3 each of Compost, Peat Moss and Perlite my mix is 2 parts Compost and 1 part each of the other two. Since the other two are inert the Compost is where the bulk of the nutrients are coming from, When using a full dose of the Terp Tea problems start to show up in the growth of the plants.

The author of that article does not say why he makes the recommendation nor does he say what it is a blanket statement to do it with all auto-flowers.
If you want water only, look into living soil. I only use dry amemdments here and there. Water only. Been using the same soil for years. Started with coots mix. Mountain organics has a super simple soil recipe that also works. Basically 40 compost 50% peat, 10% biochar and 6 cups per cu. Ft of soil of rockdusts. The stuff he supplies is really nice. Thats it. Add some cover crop and some worms and youre ready to rock. He has a foliar program that he sells to to supplement, but it isnt necessary. Man, once tou make the switch....you'll never bottle feed again.
 
If you want water only, look into living soil. I only use dry amemdments here and there. Water only. Been using the same soil for years. Started with coots mix. Mountain organics has a super simple soil recipe that also works. Basically 40 compost 50% peat, 10% biochar and 6 cups per cu. Ft of soil of rockdusts. The stuff he supplies is really nice. Thats it. Add some cover crop and some worms and youre ready to rock. He has a foliar program that he sells to to supplement, but it isnt necessary. Man, once tou make the switch....you'll never bottle feed again.
Living soil requires huge containers of soil with an environment in the pot that supports several different cover crops with a short lifespan so they live, die, decompose and repeat. I like the concept but it is not what I want so I work with the blend I have.

Bottle feeding has its place in some methods of soil growing but I feel I am a long way from that method. Most of the time the Roots Terp Tea is dusted on the soil and allowed to just lay there without being dug into the top inch or two. Something of a minimalist top dressing.;) Then water the plant as usual and nature does its thing within 4 to 5 days and signs of the Tea is gone.

The ratio of rockdust is interesting. More than what I go with but it does make for a longer life span for the soil before the mix needs any major re-amending.
 
Living soil requires huge containers of soil with an environment in the pot that supports several different cover crops with a short lifespan so they live, die, decompose and repeat. I like the concept but it is not what I want so I work with the blend I have.

Bottle feeding has its place in some methods of soil growing but I feel I am a long way from that method. Most of the time the Roots Terp Tea is dusted on the soil and allowed to just lay there without being dug into the top inch or two. Something of a minimalist top dressing.;) Then water the plant as usual and nature does its thing within 4 to 5 days and signs of the Tea is gone.

The ratio of rockdust is interesting. More than what I go with but it does make for a longer life span for the soil before the mix needs any major re-amending.
Traditionally yeah, but I use the same practice in as small as 3 gallon containers. I have a journal going now with 5 plants in one container, 8 in another, both containers are no more than 5 gallons. I just need to top dress more frequently. I do prefer larger beds though. I like to bend the rules. I should say I also do a compost extract here and there to keep the biology going.
 
short answer is YES - start at the bottom remove all fan leaves then continue uo theplant removiing just large fan leaves that are blocking light . Please check out other post about defoliation and check this site info on defiliation. You will get a better yield with defoliation
 
If you want water only, look into living soil. I only use dry amemdments here and there. Water only. Been using the same soil for years. Started with coots mix. Mountain organics has a super simple soil recipe that also works. Basically 40 compost 50% peat, 10% biochar and 6 cups per cu. Ft of soil of rockdusts. The stuff he supplies is really nice. Thats it. Add some cover crop and some worms and youre ready to rock. He has a foliar program that he sells to to supplement, but it isnt necessary. Man, once tou make the switch....you'll never bottle feed again.
Sohum and Purple Cow sells a living soil that they say takes only water through an entire grow. I’ve never used them but I do find that hard to believe that all throughout the grow year only water is needed. But since I never tried them I could be wrong. CL🍀
 
Sohum and Purple Cow sells a living soil that they say takes only water through an entire grow. I’ve never used them but I do find that hard to believe that all throughout the grow year only water is needed. But since I never tried them I could be wrong. CL🍀
not interested in making this more complicated, water & nutes are fine but thanks
 
Back
Top Bottom