Blazinjones's Hydro - Ebb 'n Flow - Grow Journal - 2016

[FeralA9X]

K so an hour ago i gave them 5 tbsp of big bloom and 5tsp of tiger bloom and kangaroots n 1tsp of open sesame and tht was at 10:30 n the ph was 5.8 but i forgot 2 check the ppm thn but rite nw its 504 but i am still havn to use vinegar 2 bring the ph down since my ph down powder has yet 2 come in the mail

basically when i say 0.8ec i mean your nutes, water unless distilled will still have an ec depending on its quality, for example my water is around 0.2 ec so after adding nutes would be around 1.0ec vinegar will still do the job but will fluctuate, just means you will have to keep an eye on the PH all the time.

R measurments different depending upon if ur growing hydro compared 2 soil cuz i hav a hydro setup ebb n flow table

In my opinion the nute mixes shouldnt vary too much in strength in any medium, its about how often you feed them, in a hydro system its a constant feed whereas soil or soil-less(coco etc) is once every few days usually with water feedings in between
I too run Hydro, just in DWC's but its still same same, I use Canna Clay Balls as my medium which is very similar to the rock you are using

 

[Mr. Krip]

EC and ppm are basically the same thing but give a different reading, Measurements are EC x 500 = ppm,
for example:
1.0ec = 500ppm
2.0ec = 1000ppm
and so on...

This is NOT necessarily correct!!

The conversion from PPM to EC depends on the type of meter used. There are three different conversion ratios that may be used:

Charts to convert ppm/EC/CF - Cannaversity

 

[FeralA9X]

Most of the cheaper meters will be the ECx500=ppm type but you are 100% correct there are different conversions, i should have mentioned that also but i have only ever seen CF and ECx700=ppm in nutrient wands/truncheon meters, which also have all different conversions on each side of the wand. Thanks for bringing that up mate, i didnt really think about that before i posted oops.. hehe

 

[Blazinjones]

since i jus got my ph dwn yesterday i flushed out my res. N added new water i fixd the ph n thn added my nutes but 2day i hav a huge spot on my leaf n the leaves r curling up if any1 cud help me figure this out i wud greatly appreciate it thank you

 

[Blazinjones]

I also dnt no if its cuz of the new light i added is it 2much light? Or mayb 2much nutes idk but if sum1 cud help me figure it out i wud b greatful

 

[FeralA9X]

since i jus got my ph dwn yesterday i flushed out my res. N added new water i fixd the ph n thn added my nutes

You should be adding everything first before PH, start with additives then nutes, once everything is done you then PH the res. Always leave PH till last
Did you check the PH after?

 

[Blazinjones]

C every1 keeps telling me different things one is check ph b4 u add nutes others say do it aftr so wat shud i do i jus checkd it a few min. Ago n it was 6.8 so i put ph down in it n its 5.0 to 5.1 bouncing bak n forth btween the 2 n the ppm is 366

 

[FeralA9X]

Depending on brands of nutrients they will raise or lower your PH unless PH Perfect (which is a load of crap), add veg nutes your PH will usually rise, Flower nutes will lower PH.
Couple of scenarios to explain:

So lets say we start with plain water first which PH should be around 7.0, we then add all of our additives and PH has fallen to say 6.0, then we add our nutes and they rise back to about 6.5 which is too high for us in hydro so we then PH down to our 5.5-6.0 range.
Or lets say we are using flower nutes and follow the same method as above, un-PH water>additives>flower nutes and now our PH has settled to 4.5, again way out of our range we need in hydro so we then PH up to 5.5-6.0.

Now we do PH first, water at 5.5, additives bringing down to 4.5, veg nutes bringing back up to 5.0, again out of our PH range. Flower nutes would be even worse and probably settle more near a PH of 3.5. This means you have to do it afterwards aswell, no need to PH twice!

You are setting the PH of something that is going to change as you add more to the res, we need it to settle at PH 5.5 after everything is added. can you see why we do it after?

 

[Blazinjones]

Ok thanx man i really appreciate it njus 2 let u no im useing fox farm nutes so idk if tht wud change anything u jus said or not?

 

[FeralA9X]

I have never used fox farm nutes as they are not available over here so not sure on the PH drift with them but will be the same process for every nutrient, some will raise or lower PH a lot more than others but its the same principle

 

[Mr. Krip]

ALWAYS PH adjust AFTER everything is added!!! You need the PH of the FINAL solution to be in range. ANYTHING (pretty much!) you add will change the PH. The people who are telling you otherwise are WRONG on this!

 

[Blazinjones]

Thanx again mr. Krip i appreciate all the help u been givn me threw this setup

 

[Blazinjones]

So testd ph this morning n it was 7.0 so put in 1ana half tsp of ph down in n it brought it to 5.2 n the ppm aftr was 381 but leaves r lookn super stressd out n curling up n yellowing

 

[Blazinjones]

plant is lokkn very stressd out idk if its cuz 2 much water or to often or to much nutes or what cud sum1 help me figure this out

 

[FeralA9X]

Looks to me like its only the fans/older growth that is taking a turn for the worse, what is the new growth looking like? whats the Humidity and temps like in there?

 

[Mr. Krip]

At first glance, I'd have to agree with FeralA9X. Your plants most likely had nutrient lock-out due to the PH problems you've had up until a day or two ago. Since the plant could not get the nutrients through the root system, it was using the stored nutrients in the lower fan leaves, which is likely why you see them dying from the bottom-up.

Now that you've corrected (hopefully!) the PH problem, she should come out of lockout and start producing some new healthy growth.

In the mean time, you can give them a light foliar feeding which may help them take in some of the nutes through the leaves if, for any reason, they're still not able to get what they need through the roots.

Just to be safe, what are your temps and RH in the grow room?

In hydro, as long as the plant has established roots, there's no such thing as watering too often. The definition of hydro is that the plants are grown in a nutrient solution instead of soil, so, if you wanted, you could have your table constantly flooding and draining. It doesn't need to constantly run. As long as the root zone stays moist, you should be fine.

 

[Blazinjones]

Temp is hi 70s to 80 n idk wat humidity is in there no way 2 test it

 

[Blazinjones]

The temp is btween hi 70s n like 84 at highest like really hot days n do 2 electricity issues n blown the breaker fuses i had to take my ac out the room n jus usen fans but what is the rh idk what tht is n thanx again for all the help

 

[Blazinjones]

K so i figured it out wat the rh means but i hav no way to tell the exact rh levels in the room they r in but the temp i wud say is at a gud level btween 77 n 82 on most days thts the normal temp

 

[FeralA9X]

You will need a hygrometer to test the Humidity but is one of the main factors in growing, can pick up really cheap ones off fleabay that will do the job too low and your plants will shrivel up if they are not well, too high and they will be mold and pest prone. Temps will give no indication whatsoever on humidity, could be really hot and humid or could be really hot and dry. When we start in veg we like to keep the humidity up relatively high, for example i like it around 60% or above, In flower because we dont want any mold or pest issues we try get it down as low as possible, I try to get mine anywhere between 35-50%. Another thing you will need to monitor the RH while drying your buds, no point spending around 3 months to grow a plant and then ruin it during drying and curing, for this you will need to keep the RH between 45-60%