Like i say im not an expert haha i have ran into a lot of problems myself my first grow, this beinh my 2nd has been trouble free bar a small light burn at start. I would start with your ec and ph levels. Make sure there correct for your medium (ph) and your ec levels are enough for the size of your plant and age. You will use 9completely different nutrients to me so no point comparing that to mine just go off you ec level this has always worked for me. Ph is very important. Do u use calmag? It may be a magnesium or calcium deficiency. The all yellow leaves at bottom of plant i would take off, dont want dead leaves hanging about, again off personal experinces.
Blaze's Garden Of Weeden All Orgasmic Organics 2017
Other than that, it cant be light burn as the yellowest are lower down than rest and your using LEDs so not as intense in 1 spot.as the HPS. Look at your PH first mate, i always go for 5.6 in cocoa and never had an issue. In soil its slightly higher but i dont knowexactly as ive used cocoa in my grows.
- Thread starter
- #623
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
ahh ic yea i grow in sunshine mix #4 and also hydro dwc but for the girl with the yellowing going on she is in the sunshine mix but yea thanx either way brotha and yea for ur second grow those girls look great nice job bro.
I threw in my 2 cents over in Penny's journal where you posted. I'll watch this thread too. I've been doing a bunch of reading recently on the topic of matching nutes with water sources and soils. The topic interests me a lot. I haven't been able to find a label or guaranteed analysis on the nutes line you're using but would like to know what all it contains.
- Thread starter
- #625
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
well first off im using 2 types of nutes right now and also using a los (living organic soil) mix a coots style mix. Now as for nutes im using remo nutes so tht way i still keep my organics lol and then for my hydro girls i use advanced nutrients ph perfect nutes micro grow and bloom plus sensizyme, overdrive,and cal-mag in ro water i have an r.o. filter so i can pump my own r.o. water which is really nice lol then i also add in some pro-tekt which is a silica additive and thats it for nutes really. when i get back to my garden ill post up the exact name of each bottle that i have for my remo and A.N. nutes
I was thinking the girls you were having issues with are in plain Sunshine mix with the Remo nutes. Was looking for the back of the bottle with all the percentages of each micro and macro element, if it's on there.
Check on the back label, but I'm pretty sure your girlfriend bought the version of Promix that is the same as sunshine #4 . A good mix + mycos without the embedded NPK fertilizer stuff.
I would use that bag with a coots mix or doc buds mix without hesitation.
-----
The yellow leaves bother me - looks like either a PH problem or wet feet. With your soil, PH shoud not be an issue.
If you are in a 3 gallon and water that size plant more than once overy 10-30 days you are probably watering too much.
I would use that bag with a coots mix or doc buds mix without hesitation.
-----
The yellow leaves bother me - looks like either a PH problem or wet feet. With your soil, PH shoud not be an issue.
If you are in a 3 gallon and water that size plant more than once overy 10-30 days you are probably watering too much.
- Thread starter
- #629
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
Ok I got u now. yes the girls im having issues with are the ones in plain sunshine mix with remo nutes and cal-mag plus and pro-tekt. but yea here are the percentages of everything i use in my sunshine mix girls
remo nutes
1: Micro 3-0-1 nitrogen 3% - 3% nitrate nitrogen, soluble potash 1%, calcium 3% - 1% chelated calcium, boron 0.02%, copper 0.05% - 0.05% chelated copper, iron 0.1% 0.1% chelated iron, manganese 0.05% - 0.05% chelated manganese, molybdenum 0.0005%
2: Grow 2-3-5 nitrogen 2% - 2% nitrate nitrogen, available phosphate 3%, soluble potash 5%, magnesium 1% - 1% water soluble magnesium, sulfur 1.5%, boron 0.02%, manganese 0.05% - 0.05% chelated manganese, zinc 0.05% - 0.05% chelated zinc
3: Bloom 1-4-6 nitrate nitrogen 1%, available phosphate 4%, soluble potash 6%, magnesium 0.07%, boron 0.02%,chelated copper 0.05%, chelated manganese 0.05%, molybdenum 0.0005%, chelated zinc 0.06%
4: Natures Candy magnesium 1.5%, sulfur 1%, chelated iron 0.1%
5: Astro Flower 0-6-14 available phosphate 6%, soluble potash 14%, sulfur 1%
6: Pro-tekt 0-0-3 soluble potash 3% derived from potassium silicate. Also contains non-plant food ingredients: silicon dioxide 7.8% also derived from potassium silicate.
7: Cal-mag plus 2-0-0 nitrate nitrogen 2.0%, calcium 3.2%, water soluble magnesium 1.2%, chelated iron 0.1%
ok so that is my whole list and percentages of what i give my remo girls hope this helps man if there is any more info u need let me know namaste.
- Thread starter
- #630
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
i dont think the plant will make it tht long inbetween watering lol by the 5th day its bone dry and the cloth pot is light as fudge lol so i know it wont 4 sure make it 30 days inbetween watering lol
- Thread starter
- #631
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
i tried using coco when i first started and i had a bunch of issues then i tried mixing it with soil n tht made it even worse lol so im guna stick with this style for awhile and perfect it and once im good at that then maybe ill try a new method but as of right now i got alot on my plate and with my breeding im doing right now i dnt wana try and learn a new method lol i got my soil girls and my 2 types of hydro so i got a good array of types to be had come harvest cause u no hydro tastes alil different then soil and hempy and so on so i figure with those 3 i should have a good an tastey harvest
Watering till run-off and getting about 4-5 days between waterings sounds about right for peat based mixes. This winter i was closer to 7 days since the temps in my tent were very low and I didn't put a heater in there. In the Summer its more like every 4 days, and Spring and Fall more like 5. So I'm with you there.
So your fertilizer is entirely Nitrate Nitrogen. I'd feed it at a lower value than the 6.5 pH you were, more like 6.0. Here's a snippet of the information I was referring to before.
From Bill Argo, PdD, Blackmore Company
"There is a great deal of confusion when it comes to understanding the difference between the pH of the fertilizer solution and the effect that fertilizer has on substrate pH, and why they are important to the health of your plants.
The effect that a water-soluble fertilizer has on substrate pH is dependent on the reactions that take place once the fertilizer has been applied to the crop and are based on the type of nitrogen contained in the fertilizer. There are three types of nitrogen used in water-soluble fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4-N), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N) and urea. Uptake of ammoniacal nitrogen causes the substrate-pH to decrease because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from roots in order to balance the charges of ions inside the plant with the solution surrounding the outside of the roots. Urea is easily converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the substrate and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, uptake of nitrate nitrogen increases substrate-pH because OH- or HCO3- (bases) are secreted by plant roots in order to balance nitrate uptake.
....the nitrogen form of the fertilizer has a much greater effect on the substrate-pH than does the solution pH."
So your fertilizer is entirely Nitrate Nitrogen. I'd feed it at a lower value than the 6.5 pH you were, more like 6.0. Here's a snippet of the information I was referring to before.
From Bill Argo, PdD, Blackmore Company
"There is a great deal of confusion when it comes to understanding the difference between the pH of the fertilizer solution and the effect that fertilizer has on substrate pH, and why they are important to the health of your plants.
The effect that a water-soluble fertilizer has on substrate pH is dependent on the reactions that take place once the fertilizer has been applied to the crop and are based on the type of nitrogen contained in the fertilizer. There are three types of nitrogen used in water-soluble fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4-N), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N) and urea. Uptake of ammoniacal nitrogen causes the substrate-pH to decrease because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from roots in order to balance the charges of ions inside the plant with the solution surrounding the outside of the roots. Urea is easily converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the substrate and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, uptake of nitrate nitrogen increases substrate-pH because OH- or HCO3- (bases) are secreted by plant roots in order to balance nitrate uptake.
....the nitrogen form of the fertilizer has a much greater effect on the substrate-pH than does the solution pH."
- Thread starter
- #633
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
Awesome so u think I should ph to 6.0 u think that will make my plants look alil better??
What kind of problems happened out of interest? Its jjst for me watering every 4-5 in comparison to every day in cocoa. So the plants are only taking in the same amount of nutes but everh 5 days as appose to every day in cocoa which would obviously lead to bigger plants, more feed/water = bigger plants, in the right circumstances which in cocoa u would have.
I'd start there. Let's just say that in the past I've done 6.5 with ProMix with a fertilizer that uses Amonical and Nitrate Nitrogen (Dyna Gro Folige Pro) and had no issues. I'm switching to an all Nitrate Nitrogen fertilizer this grow and I'm planning on pHing to 6. I sure hope that's right or I'll be screwed too. Lol. I believe it's why you will almost always see a debate on what pH you should use on soilless mixes. Some say 5.8-6.0 while others say 6.2-6.5. It's my contention that it has to do with how your fertilizer is formulated on how you should pH it.
That's probably an over simplification. Just because it dries out quicker doesn't mean the plant took up all the nutrients you added to the water. It's a more porous product you'll loose more water to evaporation. Coco also holds about 9x it's dry weight in water and peat can hold 20x, so you're applying twice as much water when you water peat to runoff. There's a lot more to it.
To minimize unused fertilizer build up in your media it's recommended to water to the point of 10% runoff with each watering. Think of it as a mini flush. Plus you also know that you've saturated all the media and there are no dry spots in it. Roots aren't going to grow where there is no water. You can get away with not watering to runoff if you run weak fertilizer mixes (low PPM or EC), I used to do it, but eventually you'll get that grow where it catches up to you. Since I've changed I've noticed better root balls at the bottom of the pot. The bottom wasn't getting wet enough for the roots to thrive so they stayed shallower.
Good explanation mate. I have never used soil before so i cant and wont pretend to know about it. Seems like there is more thay can go wrong and it isnt as tough as a medium as to what cocoa is. Im unsure, maybes its my lack of experience in soil and natural bias sway towards cocoa. One thing i havent struggled with is anything to do with th medium. Never had an issue so if i wasnt going to move to a hydro system i dont think i would change.
- Thread starter
- #640
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
Awesome great info well I'm bout to give my girls another feeding 2day so I'll make sure to get sum run off I'll have to take them some where to do it otherwise they will leak water everywhere lol I never used to water till I seen run off unless I did a flush but I'm wanting to get some big beasts going in my garden lol