Re: BID 5.1 Digital Dual JDL 600s - 4x4 - Blue Planet Nutrients - Organic Coco Perpet
Thanks for all the photos bid, they are very helpful!+reps!
Thanks for all the photos bid, they are very helpful!+reps!
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glad they helped Mc,? helped what if ya dont mind my asking? lol
oh now i understand , you know something i have learned is plants late in flower are at the end of their lives using reserves,not at their prime of life so ragged leaves,and sometimes a rough apperance is perfectly natural and normal,stuff that tripped me out as a noob grower ,thinking something was wrong but in fact its a good thing to see,im not very alarmist in general i tend to be very cool and collected in a crisis while some may shake,scream & freak out i focus on what needs to be done ,nerves of steel till its over all are safe and tended to,then after the crisis abades i may find a quiet place alone and fall apart,lol,A million things, one thing is the fact that I know every cut or bend or application you make or do is absolutely calculated based on your experience and knowlege. I can see plants that folks might trip on, you're not trippin on em, mine look like that too, so I'm not trippin on mine either...you feelin me? The final stages of finishing are where I'm focusing my attention these days, and from the posts we see alot of others are examining there technique also. Your last photo update was awesome.........you always do your best and I can see how attentive you are to your subjects. I will always progress, and intend on absorbing as much knowlege I can if not simply by osmosis! Good weed BID!
oh now i understand , you know something i have learned is plants late in flower are at the end of their lives using reserves,not at their prime of life so ragged leaves,and sometimes a rough apperance is perfectly natural and normal,stuff that tripped me out as a noob grower ,thinking something was wrong but in fact its a good thing to see,im not very alarmist in general i tend to be very cool and collected in a crisis while some may shake,scream & freak out i focus on what needs to be done ,nerves of steel till its over all are safe and tended to,then after the crisis abades i may find a quiet place alone and fall apart,lol,
next thing i harvest will be that muffed up looking big blue dream, she looks like hammered hell on the surface,but upon close examination she is heavy with flowers,and trichs are plentiful,her parfume is sweet and overwhelming, brush against her and the whole house and half the yard fills with her fruity/berry scent this tells me she's far healthier than she may seem by apperance,it was from her getting wilted several times ,the upside is she went into trich overdrive literaly twice as many per sq inch than the last blue dream i harvested,wait till i do the macro shots ,
im glad you find my work helpful it makes me feel good to know others are finding it useful ,you should not hesitate to ask me anything i will do my best to answer accurately,quickly i dont mind researching if i dont know something right off to me it an oppertunity to pick up info i may not have gained yet,win/win, i also dont mind doing photos and or video for something specific, although my tablet does not fit in a tripod to well i do have a cradle that helps but its limited on what i can do ,but i'll try
thanks for adding to my street cred and rep,i really like being ablt to return the help i recived when i started up here .
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my last qt of blackstrap from the organic section at the grocery store was 9$ lasted 3months lil less, but i use organic raw honey from local bees sometimes,and even dextrose i got in a food box, carbs for the mykos in whatever form i can afford ,but i prefer and use the blackstrap as often as i can,
BPN ROCKS! i did the same thing when i won motm i already had 2 part gallons, and i use the organic line so i added a few bucks and got a great package, i will use bpn forever and exclusivly if at all possible,no other company compares in the nute biz as far as customer service goes best i have ever seen in any business, i rave about them endlessly! plus corey is my friend/bfam and just a total badass! not to mention the products are the best i have ever used hands down top notch primo
Then let me run my mad plan by you; I'm switching over to the Farmers pride organic three part, so, my plan is to mix up the first dose at half strength....according to the bpn charts....give that to my plants in flower twice, watch em the whole time, if it's all good, go ahead with full dose like....full dose...water....water molasses.....full dose.....water...water mollasses calmag......something like that....I will most likely get an urge to add some mychos and bennies also inbetween or with. I've found that I'm way less schedule oriented and I pkay em by ear most of the time, just making sure I get the mychos and micros in at appropriate times. I'd like to hear what you think about my plan, and by all means interject anything that can make the switch more priductive and as painless as possible. AGAIN.....I don't recommend anyone switching nutes in the middle of a run!
thanks brother im conna copy the book i just wrote to you over here i think its the first time i went into it in that much detail lol
I PMed you regarding pollen collection and storage. Feel free to move the discussion over to your journal if you feel the info is pertinent. I just started it there in PMs so as not to clutter the journal with my own projects.
Diggin the new tent, things are looking nice, keep up the good work Broham
sounds good!! glad to helpAll I've ever done is organics, they are on organics now. I gotta see what I have with mychos in it, I have some stuff I make teas with, but it's hot as hell, 1tbsp in a sock for 3 gal water....bubble like you say.....I'm feelin ya bro......nutes/mychos to break it down, to an extent before it goes in the pots. I'm in a dynamite soil, but I'm in 2 gallon pots, and the ones I've taken arent root bound. I tend to gravitate to smaller plants inside. Ok, So this is exactly what I'm gonna do; i got my measuring "binky", I'm gonna go with the one third dose cuz the pkants are screamin healthy, I'm gonna put 1tbsp of flower girl in a sock and let it bubble overnite and I'll hit em in the morning. All this is goin on in a three gallon bucket, they get 3 cups each of the concoction. I stumbled on a deal a while back, I made a tea with 2 different things I use and molasses.......I never saw plants grow so fast! I will add 1 tbsp/gal molasses to the mix too! Thanks BID, I think Im understanding!
ok no problemOriginally Posted by Quixilvir
Brother, I am on a quest for knowledge with regard to pollen collection and storage. I know that you've done a great deal of experimentation where this is concerned, and I would like to pick your brain a bit.
Basically, I have some very specific questions, and if you could give me a few specific answers I would be eternally grateful. I'm more than happy to do the homework, if you can point me in the right direction, but I'd like to skip reading entire threads to get a few of these answers.
1. What is the longest period of time you've been able to store pollen, and still have it be viable?
2. Of all the methods you've tried, which has proved to have the most success with regard to storage?
3. What are some, if any, of the drawbacks you've experienced with regard to pollen storage?
Thanks in advance for any information you can provide!
I am still somewhat unsure how I am going to get that CS generated pollen off the flower tops and onto the untreated GDP female. I did leave a few of the bud sites untouched so I could hit those with the CS generated pollen if I actually ended up with any.
I used Tactical's GDP pollen on the main cola and all the secondary colas, but everything below those upper tips is still unfertilized.
You can go about collection a few ways. Before I go into that, though, Has that pollen gotten wet at all?
Now as far as the collection goes, I recommend the following:A) DEFOLIATE a collection site on the male.
B) Dispose of leaves that got dusted with pollen in a pail of water.
(water will kill most of the pollen as well as keep it from floating around to any other plants you may have)
C) Carefully bag up the male flowers while still on the plant.
D) Snip the branch off below the bag.
E) Shake the holy crap out of the flowers inside the bag.
F) Remove the stem and flowers from the bag, and dunk them into a pail of water.
GG7) Use a small paintbrush to very carefully dab the pollen onto the buds you want to pollinate.
H) Bag up treated buds for 30 min, then remove bags and mist with water to kill any loose pollen.
Pollination, and fertilization of the ovum takes mere minutes in cannabis. Any female flowers that received pollen that was active and if fertilization was successful, the pistils will recede and turn color within 24 hours.
Pollination facts for those reading that would like more info:
When a pollen grain lands on or is carried to the receptive tissue of a pistil known as the stigma, the flower has been pollinated. But this is only the first step in a complicated process that, if successful, leads to fertilization. The pollen grain contains two cells- a generative cell and a tube cell. The generative nucleus divides to form two sperm nuclei. The tube cell grows down into the pistil until it reaches one of the ovules contained in the ovary. The two sperm travel down the tube and enter the ovule. There, one sperm nucleus unites with the egg. The other sperm nucleus combines with the polar nuclei that exist in the ovule, completing the process known as double fertilization. These fertilized nuclei then develop into the endocarp, the tissue that feeds the embryo. The ovule itself develops into a seed that is contained in the flower's ovary (which ripens into a fruit). In gymnosperms, the ovule is exposed (that is, not contained in an ovary), and the pollen produced by the male reproductive structures lands directly on the ovule in the female reproductive structures.
ok no problem
1. i have pollen more than a year old thats still working well, royal purple kush male i had from my first journal i believe, i used some a month ago and got at least 100 beans off a single well dusted branch
2. i have only used my current method , i collect pollen (various methods there) i usually keep it in a plastic snuff can like skoal or something with an all plastic container they are good for collecting and drying the pollen, i save every sillica gel pack i find like they stick in shoeboxes etc, i usually collect for 2 weeks from a male if its a small one,for a big one that gives a bunch at one time its a couple days,,after im happy with my haul, i cull the male or cut off all flowers and reveg, unless i have another one in veg, for example right now i have 2 clones from each of the 2 male gdps i had so 4 in all, today i picked my favorite and culled 3, i had 1 in flower i have been collecting from, he is done and i have enough pollen for a while.
so i have one vegging nicely for later, i will dry the pollen for a few days with the lid of the snuff can half off
then i will add a bit of diotomaceous earth food grade to make up 1/3 to 1/2 of the volume of the pollen and flowers, i'll close it and shake it vigorusly for a few min, then let it settle a few min, then i will use a small strainer to seperate out the flower parts, then i divide the pollen into several waxed paper enveloped i made while waiting for the pollen to dry
i will date and lable each tiny package sometimes i add a few kernels of dry rice, then i will pack them into a snuff can or prescription bottle and add a silica gel pack or 2 then i put it in my storage bag a freezer ziplock bag that is filled with a product called "damp rid" a water absorbing crumble product that is used in damp areas
so each new strain is added to the bag so i have a gallon size bag 1/3 full of damp rid with rx bottles and snuff cans in my freezer, i cannot stress enough how important it is to keep moisture out, when i get out a sample i stand at the freezer make my selection ,pull out 1 envelope, and quickly shove the rest back deep in the coldest part of the freezer,
then i put the envelope in the frig to slowly warm up you want to avoid any condensation, after 30 min or so i take it out and straight to the female in waiting i use either a q-tip or small paint brush to apply the pollen never actually touching the pistils, i use it all as you cant re freeze it ,same reason for multiple packets, thats my long term storage method, for short term stuff i dont intend to freeze it just sits on my desk drying and in a draft free spot it will keep for a couple weeks to a month that way
3. i guess the great lengths i go to to ensure moisture free storage it the only real drawback, i have read if you keep it like that you can store it for several years, it will lose some potency over time but remains viable for quite a while
thanks J means alot coming from you i know you do your research
happy 420 everyone!!! may your meds be strong and your bowl runneth over!!
same to you fish!hey B.I.D and Spiffy hope you all have the best 420 ever