Bassman59's 1st Grow - DWC/LED - Pray For Me!

Looking great, Bass! Don't worry about that stem...you just figured out how to supercrop using your lights, although, most of us use our hands! :rofl:
:welldone:
 
Update:

31 days in Flower

Ya, that's right, fewer days in flower than last post. :thumb:

Another thing learned in the last 24hrs. The term "flower" (in regards to time), related to when the first pistils after 12/12 show. Not when 12/12 starts which is what I have been using. So we're 8 days backwards. This is both good and bad.

Bad because xmas will be spent trimming or curing.
Good because they'll be a butt load bigger nuggets.

So I just had to update because when I went in to the tent today I noticed some new color far away from the LED. Now I'm talking some of the nuggets I am showing you below are the ones FURTHEST from the light. Like furthest corner even. Kinda exciting for me and my first grow.

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Hey bassman! Sorry to hear about the deficiency you had back there but im glad to hear things are on the up and up.. And up and up and up.... Ladies are looking nice. They drink like no tomorrow i know!!
 
I always count mine from the day I put them 12/12. Not sure if that is the proper way, but the way I've done it. It makes it easier for record keeping instead of searching for little white hairs to start the count. Either way, if you keep accurate data you can reproduce your successes and avoid repeating your mistakes.

Plants are looking good, glad to see the nugs in the far-off distance getting big too.
 
Really? I knew it took about a week for a plant to be triggered in, BUT when it comes to a breeders guidelines in terms of indoor flowering, I was under the impression that they meant from the first day of 12/12. Am I mistaken here? Or are you writing your journal referring to flowering time as the natural process after being manually triggered? Oooooo im so confused now!!!

Clarification on that would be much appreciated!
 
Magic beans said:
Really? I knew it took about a week for a plant to be triggered in, BUT when it comes to a breeders guidelines in terms of indoor flowering, I was under the impression that they meant from the first day of 12/12. Am I mistaken here? Or are you writing your journal referring to flowering time as the natural process after being manually triggered? Oooooo im so confused now!!!

Clarification on that would be much appreciated!
Click to expand...

Blame everything I have to say on Mr Krip. :thumb:

He basically told me when asked, that "flowering" term is sometimes mistakenly thought of as day one of 12/12 when that is really transitional. And that breeders when they indicate strain x being 7-9 weeks, it's really 8-10 after the flip. The transitional period to when those 1st hairs show is apparently 7-10 days commonly.
 
Magic beans said:
Really? I knew it took about a week for a plant to be triggered in, BUT when it comes to a breeders guidelines in terms of indoor flowering, I was under the impression that they meant from the first day of 12/12. Am I mistaken here? Or are you writing your journal referring to flowering time as the natural process after being manually triggered? Oooooo im so confused now!!!

Clarification on that would be much appreciated!
Click to expand...
I count the day 12/12 starts as the 1st day of flower. I know a lot of people that use that as the date as well. I will see if I can find a hard reference to that though.
 
Yea i will look into it as well. As long as ive got my 60-100x scope, nobody will stop me!!! Muahahahahahahaaaaa!!!
 
Bassman59 said:
Blame everything I have to say on Mr Krip. :thumb:

He basically told me when asked, that "flowering" term is sometimes mistakenly thought of as day one of 12/12 when that is really transitional. And that breeders when they indicate strain x being 7-9 weeks, it's really 8-10 after the flip. The transitional period to when those 1st hairs show is apparently 7-10 days commonly.
Click to expand...

I accept full responsibility! :)

To the best of my knowledge, which has evolved over time, flowering starts when the pistils start showing up, basically, in more than groups of two.

If you really want to have some fun gauging harvest times, you should try the 40:60 Rule:

The 40:60 rule is very useful. It states that when flowering natural (NON-autoflowering) strains under constant 12/12 light/darkness, that the plant will "stretch" for the first 40% of its complete flowering period. Note that this also assumes that the plant in question is a mature one (staggered nodes instead of them being straight across from each other).

How is this useful?

If you have a strain that you know the total flowering time of, you can find the length of the stretch period and then by observing how much the plant stretches each day, you can tell if you will have enough room for it.

If you have a strain that you do NOT know the total flowering time of, you can count the number of days that the plant is in the stretch period, and figure out the exact finishing date. This is MUCH more accurate than the average flowering times posted in most seedbank descriptions.

Ever wonder if the seedbank recommendations were at least semi-accurate or if they were weighted one way or the other to support the description of a given strain's affects (shorter for UP, longer for couch-lock)? Just plug your MEASURED numbers into the formula.

Days of Stretch = 40% of Flowering
Days After Stretch = 60% of Flowering

1.5 x (Days of Stretch) = # of Days from the end of stretch to harvest day
2.5 x (Days of Stretch) = TOTAL # of Days in Flowering

40% x (Total Days of Flowering) = # of Days of Stretch
60% x (Total Days of Flowering) = # of Days After Stretch ("Fattening")
Click to expand...
 
Forgive me for the very late start to the thread, but have just finished reading approx 24 pages of the best information I've ever creeped, besides the ever good reading Tulip's tutorial, where Tulips is the learning, your's is the tutorial in practice!

Two questions:

1) If you didn't initiate the stretch that you did in veg when you thought Big-Girl was looking too bushy and squat do you think overall height would be less? or just stretch less in flower? seeing as how you've never experienced burn from the led's, only fear of it, could they be too high and you could try letting the girls "get a little closer" Being careful not to cook them, but at the same time knowing you got all you could from the panel?

2) Not knowing much about chillers A) is it noisy? hum like a fridge?
B) I know you're replacing air tubes with every res change, cleaning air stones etc, but the nutrient solution also runs through your chiller. How is the chiller's plumbing cleaned? are there deposits or spots for bacteria or algae to grow in there? Sorry if I missed a similar question.

(in an alternate universe) I Did My first grow this summer, with some killer seed from Herbies's head shop (awesome sponsor, even better shipping and seeds) in a rubbermaid garden shed just big enough for the 6, 5 gal pails of some of their finest! lugging them around was a PITA, but I think this journal has made up my mind about trying DWC :thankyou:
Tweed
 
Tweed, thanks for the ego boost. And you're most welcome to come along for this goofy ride.

1. Not sure I'm answering the right question: I kept the LED higher for 2 reasons. One was the suggestion of Grow Stealth, though he did say I could get a little closer. The other was to try to make the low ones stretch reaching for light. In the end, one of the ones two weeks behind the bush, out reached the bush. Two combined things there imo: 1. I fimmed the bush perfectly getting 4 tops instead of 1 biggun. 2. I missed the fim on the one that is tallest now, just slightly. If you're talking about the stretch happening and passing the older plant BECAUSE I held the light higher in veg, it didn't effect. Meaning the stretch on that plant ALL came during 12/12. It just shot up like a rocket! Sadly I only have 1 clone of that one. Wish I had taken more.

2. The chiller is uber quiet. Less than a frig even. I usually flush some plain tap through during res change to at least get some old nutes and any possible organisms left over out. Now my water is hard as shit, so I presume this will leave some calcium deposits.

When this grow is finished, my plan is to run some ro water with shit loads of h202 through the system for no less than 6 hrs. I will also check with the manufacturer and see if CLR is ok to run through before hand. Then maybe vinegar, then the peroxide. Plan is after every harvest clean the hell out of everything. The only "spots" I know about are the insane amounts of hard water deposits but generally it's "splash" and not below water line. I mildly attempt to scrub them a little bit each res change.

I havent been replacing the air tubes weekly. No need to. I do however wipe them down on the outside with alcohol. When we were still feeding with pump and water lines inside I changed those tubes 1-2 times before the roots got into the water. But it is a small pain getting them back through the netpots and where you want them.

I hope I answered your questions. Feel free to ask away. I'm new to but I have spent a lot of time learning.

Also, just a fyi on tulips thread. He currently DOES NOT use the nutes from that company he got his DWC tubs/kit from. He uses AN and we agree the dry product of that other company is "meh" at best. And to hell with their ph dn!
 
Happy Turkey day to all.

Blew out my back today! Excruciating pain! I just picked up a 10lb turkey out of the sink and BAM! One of those got it just right things with something routine. Practically had me in tears and took me an hour to finally go through the pain to put the turkey in the oven. I hope I can manage to take it out!

In the meantime,

I'm thankful for this:

day 33 in flower:
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