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[Lost In Nugs]

The smallest reflector with 5W DIODES is the only light i would put in there for under 100 bucks.

I know its hard without money. Hope this one turns out to get some bud. I just learned what a good light can do. You could spend your money on a single Cree 3590 white LED with one driver. It would cost you more, but you would have the best LED on the market. Its dimmable and you can buy more over time and hang it to the same driver. But then we end up 150 bucks. But its a 3590....man... Good light

Better price: 1xBridglelux Vero 29 generation 7 BRX40E10K0 C7X and a Meanwell driver with 2100mA would cost you only 120 bucks for parts and you could turn it up from 0 to 150W. Way more lumen within the PAR range for your money

You just screw or glue the Chip onto a heatsink like a CPU, connect a molex adapter + and - to the driver.

But this is all DIY and could cause death if you dont secure the wires correct. So be careful. Maybe this is something for your first real grow you put some money in the chip i told you is pretty good for the price. Actually the best and efficient Vero 29 from seed to harvest.

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[BagsNewbie]

Thanks for advice Seymour nugget, got some income coming in over next few months so will definitely get the crew 3950 in time, think I'm going to grab the 48reflector next week and use that for this baby, and then get the cree when pennies are available,,, cpuld I still make use of the 48 in seedling/veg,,, or should o just use the cree from the start,,,, When I have both , that is
Last question lol, as annoying and simple as it is,, this time around, will my plants be ok without nutrients,calmag,seaweed extract and so on,,,?

 

[Lost In Nugs]

I edited my post above. Have a look. The Vero is a very very good Chip and that model is imo the best for a single COB light. Or even for a 2-3 chip fixture, really depends on driver used. There are tons of options. If you need help on finding fitting parts and basic wireing just contact me via my DIY thread in my sig.

For your question about feed. If you only want to use water you have to get some good soil and transplant the lil girl several times so it eats from whats in the soil. You could live from tap water for a while, but you can not gain weight from it.

'No nutes no fruits'... 'more roots more fruits' get big pots

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[BagsNewbie]

Ahhh yh just had a quick look at your diy info, I have an electrician as a friend who could do that,,but I'd rather be safe than sorry and just go for 48 reflector in next couple of weeks then after see what' goes on with this baby,,,
After this plant is done I'm going to attempt the cree or maybe your diy,, will definitely see me pop up on one of your posts!
Thanks for all help, and yh I get what you mean abit just water, good explanation,, I'm gonna have to look at some good cheap solutions I can do,, any ideas for diy nutes at seedling stage? It even some affordability nutes,,, and last but not least, is my plant still seedling stage or now in veg,,? Seedling I presume, cheers Seymour great help

 

[Lost In Nugs]

I like to help if i can. Started growing just like you may 2015. A friend gave me a Northern lights seed for my birthday. I put in in soil without a clue, overwatered it, had bad light for it. Then i scrogged it on the balkony over 3 month and when it started flowering the summer was over, so i put it under a Mars ll 700, my first light, and got 160g dry from the first seed i germinated about 6 month earlier.

But back to your plant. now just water it dropwise. If the soil is fairly dry the roots will grow down looking for more. If the soil is wet or moist all the time it will slow on growth, number one mistake is overwatering. Just some drops of water every day so the pot feels almost empty.

When the roots look out of the holes of the pot you could transplant it to a bigger pot. Have to look on your pictures about the size its in now

I am not shure when veg begins exactly. But this is still a seedling.

Shure there are plenty of ways of makin your own organic food for her. Keep eggshells for example, lots of good stuff in there. Cook of the potential bacteria on there and then let them sit in water several days. Nettle is another good plant to let sit in water for some weeks and use it as a fertilizer.


Have checked your picture. Ok.
Grab a bag of good soil with perlite in it. Maybe from ebay, Not too heavily feed. Maybe for 3 to 4 weeks or so. I would also buy some more perlite. About 15 to 25% is good in soil imho. It helps draining water and against overwatering. You and your roots will love it.

Another thing, remove the tinfoil. Get a shiney white plastic or something. This light is weak so this might wont be a problem, but with a strong light you could get hotspots that burn your plants.

Go for it. It should grow you a good ounce of dry bud at least.

I use the diodes from this light for a small 40x40x120 in a few weeks. Single plant grow. They are cheap but can grow some good buds for 1 or 2 years then they fail or put out less light per watt.


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[BagsNewbie]

Help is the key to the world,, but yh I think my first two purchases will be that 48 reflector above and some good soil, because I know the current soil is very poor,almost useless, But yh once the plant says grows a little I will put it in my cupboard, using white plastic ect,, or can I use ,'Fire Blankets' which have reflective material,, seen it on some other posts,, useable or no? On way to work now but werl be back with updates as I go along Thanks Seymour

 

[425jesse]

Howdy Snid! I have a question about defol---I am over 2 weeks into flower, and I feel like the number of fan leaves that are still on the plants may be inhibiting some growth. Will you take a peak and tell me if you would clean up some of the lowers, or uppers or..... Thanks in advance!!!

 

[Lost In Nugs]

Howdy Snid! I have a question about defol---I am over 2 weeks into flower, and I feel like the number of fan leaves that are still on the plants may be inhibiting some growth. Will you take a peak and tell me if you would clean up some of the lowers, or uppers or..... Thanks in advance!!!

Asking the same question. Monday will be day 14 after the switch to flower. Should i defoliate sunday day 13 or monday day 21. I am out of the house a lot and these two dates will be my nearest chances to get it done.

Not shure how long into early flower we can do a decent defol and lillipopping

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[Stinky Snid]

Hi Stinky,
What kind of stakes are you using for your lst? They look like some kind of bendable wires.
Thanks
Peachy


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Just good ole 14/3 coated wire. I buy a 12ft length and it last me years. Cut to size and bendable to whatever shape you need. Although they only work for a few weeks until the branches become too strong and lift them right out.

Stinky Snid
cheers

 

[Stinky Snid]

Howdy Snid! I have a question about defol---I am over 2 weeks into flower, and I feel like the number of fan leaves that are still on the plants may be inhibiting some growth. Will you take a peak and tell me if you would clean up some of the lowers, or uppers or..... Thanks in advance!!!

Asking the same question. Monday will be day 14 after the switch to flower. Should i defoliate sunday day 13 or monday day 21. I am out of the house a lot and these two dates will be my nearest chances to get it done.

Not shure how long into early flower we can do a decent defol and lillipopping

Hey Jesse, as far as your plants go I would take off some of the upper fan leaves. The ones with long stems that cause it to hang over the lower foliage. I see they weren't topped, in that case most of your leaves will be blocking something. I would wait to this though, another week or two. I usually start regular defoliation around week 5 from flip, approximately 3 weeks into flower. (giving two weeks for transition) At their stage in life they're wanting to make mass roots, and not want to focus on leaf production. Until buds are formed and fan leaf production becomes null I would wait. This way you can see what budsites will be blocked and defoliated accordingly. She'll she'd her lower leaves on her own in time, just worry about the budsites.
Same would go for you SeymoreNuggets, I would imagine... Thanks for the previous answers, I was thinking boron also but it such a rare thing to see I wouldn't have thought. But it does look like boron deficiency, calcium would be more spotted.

Stinky Snid
cheers

 

[Lost In Nugs]

I had this twice on the same genetics. I think my water and soil is too alkaline for landrace sativa genetics. The Nebula next to them (front in picture below) liked the therapy

So you would wait another 2 weeks at least, right? I thought i could do the lollipopping earlier so there is no energy wasted on branches that never will get enough light to grow big.

Still not shure what i should do with them. Thinking about a final transplant too, this would slow them a bit for the days i am out of the house.

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[PacificPeach]

Just good ole 14/3 coated wire. I buy a 12ft length and it last me years. Cut to size and bendable to whatever shape you need. Although they only work for a few weeks until the branches become too strong and lift them right out.

Stinky Snid
cheers

Thank you - very practical


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[Stinky Snid]

@SeymoreNuggets ; yours are a different case all together. With your training you could start defoliation a little earlier and can be more precise in choosing which leaves to remove. Buds don't need light to form but do need some to mature. So if theyve stopped growing vertically and buds are forming then you're OK to proceed. Also people usually remove all the underlying scrog foliage, I'm not familiar with when they do this but I've seen them all do it. You need a scrog expert.

Stinky Snid
cheers

 

[Lost In Nugs]

@SeymoreNuggets ; yours are a different case all together. With your training you could start defoliation a little earlier and can be more precise in choosing which leaves to remove. Buds don't need light to form but do need some to mature. So if theyve stopped growing vertically and buds are forming then you're OK to proceed. Also people usually remove all the underlying scrog foliage, I'm not familiar with when they do this but I've seen them all do it. You need a scrog expert.

Stinky Snid
cheers

I think i will remove small undergrowth on all of them to about 4 or 5 inches below the average canopy height and only cut a leaf here and there that is blocking a promising budsite. I guess its more important to remove any lower branch that would not get to the top to use the energy for main tops

Thanks snid. Cya soon

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[Integrum Stultus]

Ask Stinky Snid Anything - Sharing Knowledge 420Style

Hey Stinky whats up? So I was checking my two older girls' trichs this evening and am seeing about 3-5% amber. My question is "Is this uncommon for autos at 7 weeks?" Cherry Bomb's (Bomb Seeds) pistils have all receded back and have oranged up pretty nice and Dream Berry (Auto Seeds) still has alotta white erect pistils. (Hahaha! I said 'erect') Both breeders suggest 70-75 days seed to meds. Am I getting lucky and mine will finish quicker or is this indicative that I should start flushing by the end of week 8 (current week) and they are right on schedule? I've come this far, would be a shame to muck it up now.. Unfortunately i cant get a very good picture with my phone and loupe. Thanks in advance buddy!!

Best i could do (Cherry trichs)

Cherry

Dreamer

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[Stinky Snid]

Hey Stinky whats up? So I was checking my two older girls' trichs this evening and am seeing about 3-5% amber. My question is "Is this uncommon for autos at 7 weeks?" Cherry Bomb's (Bomb Seeds) pistils have all receded back and have oranged up pretty nice and Dream Berry (Auto Seeds) still has alotta white erect pistils. (Hahaha! I said 'erect') Both breeders suggest 70-75 days seed to meds. Am I getting lucky and mine will finish quicker or is this indicative that I should start flushing by the end of week 8 (current week) and they are right on schedule? I've come this far, would be a shame to muck it up now.. Unfortunately i cant get a very good picture with my phone and loupe. Thanks in advance buddy!!

Best i could do (Cherry trichs)

Cherry

Dreamer

Seeing those pics and reading your description makes me think that cherry is ready for her flush. I see no white pistils, she's dense and her "second" looks quite mature aswell. Flush away brother As for Dreamer, she's clearly a little behind. I'd give her at least another week before her trichs start changing over. If you've got your loupe then messing up is very hard. I flush at 5-10% amber on the second or third bud down the stalk , since the tops mature much faster than lesser exposed buds. Then once she dries out (about a week) she'll be nearing 30-50% amber and ready for harvest. Sounds good?

Stinky Snid
cheers

 

[425jesse]

Security cameras...the cameras I have use the 850nm wavelength for infrared illumination. Will this effect my plants in flower cycle? I want to be able to watch their temp
And RH, and most of what I have read says no, but wondered if you had any input?

 

[Integrum Stultus]

Sounds good!! ..
One other thing to point out I'm seeing the same amount of amber on the Dreamer. Are trichs the best way to judge? Or pistils? Or a happy medium of both? If I get lower down on them and the trichs aren't as 'ripe' should I chop the upper fruits and allow the others to stay on while they ripen up?


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[Pennywise]

Its trichomes all the way, you could harvest the top buds first then let the lower stuff ripen a little longer. I usually chop when the top is ready and use the lower stuff for concentrate or butter.


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[Lost In Nugs]

Security cameras...the cameras I have use the 850nm wavelength for infrared illumination. Will this effect my plants in flower cycle? I want to be able to watch their temp
And RH, and most of what I have read says no, but wondered if you had any input?

I would say they dont react to it. As long its no PAR this should not hurt. 850nm is even higher then the wavelenght i give mine after lights out. I use 730 to 745nm, closer to the PAR range and it only has benefits afaik. I would go for it. I noticed a red led on my power plug 10 days after switch, but they developed flowers, so this might not reached down to them. But your camera has a larger range to get the Vision right?

But what are you going to do when you notice humidity too high during the nights? Wouldnt you notice that even without a humidity meter in the morning because it gets damp or even wet between the bushier parts of the plants? They have max min memory too, just reset before lights out and you know whats going on without IR cam and the risk of growing hermies in there, right?if you are worried about the 850nm add some 730 for the entire night, this keeps them asleep, i read you could even open the tent as long they shine in 730nm far red

Current Grow SeymoreNuggets Flowering Journal - Nebula & Atomical Haze - Soil - 2x3 - 420W DIY COB

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