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Hello and good day Snid! Thought this would be the appropriate place for this question and who better to ask than stinky Snid? Here goes...

What looks to be a calcium and or magnesium issue has manifested itself on out gold leaf. We had high heat and low humidity. We addressed this by switching the PS Mini out of the bloom cab and into the veg cab. Temps are now good. Added an evaporative cooler and it helped the temps and humidity. RH still sitting around 40% but better than under 30. Fed calmag and all new growth looked great. Until a day or two ago. Been misting with 1ml/L calmag. Dumped the jungle juice and put in ph perfect sensi a and b. Also running calmag and b52 and hydroguard. Now we have new growth being effected. Switched base nutes last night. Pics:
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If this continues what should we try next? Thanks!


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Its looking like calcium now.



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Hey snid,

Changed my username from jmor721. Thanks a lot for the info. I will be keeping an eye on it and continue updating. As for the meter, I'll be using it to keep me in the the ball park for now till I get the hang on things. Thanks
 
MAYDAY MAYDAY.....immediate advice needed. I have these super tiny little critters crawling all over my soil...I did a thorough inspectiin and didnt see any of them on my plants, but I need to get rid of them ASAP....any suggestions? And can they kill my crop? Tried to get a pic, but cant get a good shot of them.
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These are root eaters, they won't be eating the foliage. But you sure as hell know they're feasting on those roots right now. Yes they can kill your plant...God damn bugs! Just hope that your roots development exceeds what their munching on. Remedies include garden safe pesticides like potassium salts, and others like neem and horticultural oils. If you've got gnats too them get some yellow sticky strips. My main thing with pests is prevention, keep thing clean and yourself too. Bugs love to get on clothes and hairs to get into the warmth.

As Pennywise suggested, SnS nutrients, a sponsor, has a whole line of great pest and disease control products. You can contact them directly, also they offer free samples of their entire line. Always good when it's free. :thumb:

hi stinky
had this clone started showing sex rappidly 15/12/2016 but flipped her 12/12 31/12/2016 so dont no weather or not its week 6 or week 8 of this little bubblegum xl
how long do you thing there is left? was thinking of running her till end of this week then flushing her for maby 2 weeks, or will i get away with 1 week as she is only a small girl?
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When trying to determine your harvest window it good to take a few things into account. First off breeders will say whatever time frame that they've determined under their ideal environmental conditions. Secondly, actual flower period doest start until buds have formed. The Stretch phase in preflower is considered part of the vegetation. So usually about two weeks from flip is when I start to count my weeks of flower. Now this gets you to the window, wide as it may be. You'll want to check trichomes to determine your preferred amount of amber to cloudy trichs. From the looks of it she's got a few more weeks left. At least another week before the pre harvest flush. I see lots of white long pistils on her, she's got some growing to do still:Namaste:

[quote="Moonshine17, post: 3242819"]Stinkysnid...or anyone... when can you start foliage spraying? Is seedling stage way too early? Also, my seedlings are getting light via 2 300w leds and one 35w 5000k cfl, and one 45w led bulb. I they get 20/4 light total (12-14 hrs in tent and natural sun for the other 6 hrs). It's overcast today in the mid 70's. Is overcast light still better than tent? Should I bother to take em out today, or better off in tent. I have a greenhouse outside they go in when outdoors, with door open for circulation so they don't cook out there. I thought the co2 would be good. Thanks for helping asap cause it's bout time that I usually put em outdoors.[/QUOTE]
Don't you risk infestations by bringing them outside, if you've got all the light you need indoors I'd say stay indoors. Good point about the co2, but I don't think over cast would be as good as the LEDs. Although direct sunlight on the other hand is like steroids during flower period. A greenhouse sounds swell, if it's pest free then I think you've got a magic ticket to big buds in there. The sun gives varying spectrums during different seasons. But it's always beneficial to have sunlight to flower buds. If it's sunny out then give them some sun, it sounds like they've been weened into being exposed to sunlight. That always important... Did I miss anything? :thanks:

[quote="GrowchyGreenz, post: 3243126"]Hello and good day Snid! Thought this would be the appropriate place for this question and who better to ask than stinky Snid and friends? Here goes...

What looks to be a calcium and or magnesium issue has manifested itself on out gold leaf. We had high heat and low humidity. We addressed this by switching the PS Mini out of the bloom cab and into the veg cab. Temps are now good. Added an evaporative cooler and it helped the temps and humidity. RH still sitting around 40% but better than under 30. Fed calmag and all new growth looked great. Until a day or two ago. Been misting with 1ml/L calmag. Dumped the jungle juice and put in ph perfect sensi a and b. Also running calmag and b52 and hydroguard. Now we have new growth being effected. Switched base nutes last night. Pics:
[IMG]https://www.420magazine.com/mobile-gallery/420-magazine-mobile433383732.jpg
If this continues what should we try next? Thanks
The consensus seems to be calcium deficiency and I tend to agree. Calcium deficiency is exhibited in a few ways. I can see the obvious spots that have processed from smaller spots. The young new growth is gnarly and yellowing some. LEDs have been known to cause lots of calcium deficiencies, I suspect from full spectrum high intensity exposure. If your still in veg then foliar feeding a calcium supplement is a great way to go. Continue calmag too... Another option is to do a nutrient solution flush. Making an excessive amounts of nute mix and flush the plant with it. This will eliminate any Salt build up I the medium which may be inhibiting tour calcium uptake.
Can excess calcium lock out mag and make it look this way? Doubt ph is locking it out at 6-6.2
That great chart from Pennywise answers that question. Every element is either augmenting or inhibiting the other ones uptake.
Thanks for that maybe too much calmag is the problem. Def looks like calcium. Waiting on Snid but will adjust accordingly
I appreciate the vote of. Confidence Growchy :Namaste: Pennywise Is great for his information sharing and advice. I have a hard time keeping up with these threads, I'm working way way to much.

Stinky Snid
:green_heart:cheers
 
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Absolutely! have read quite a few posts from Pennywise and he is very knowledgeable and we are thankful he was able to confirm. Did you mean to flush with a very weak nute solution to break up salts or a very strong one?


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Thanks to those who came to answer Jmor 's query. I'll concur with the analysis, definitely splashing. It's too localized to be a nutrient issue, she looks very healthy from my own eyes. Water slowly and gently around the perimeter of the pot and work your way to the center. If you get any nute solution on the leaves then spray it down with a mister quite liberally. Hope all is still well, thanks for your question :Namaste:


They are very reliable, but are they accurate.... In most cases it's going to give a decent ball park of what your Ph is. Which is much better than not knowing at all. That one seems on the high end of meters out there. If you have a way of testing it then you're golden. If fertility is a Moisture meter it is very useful and is more accurate since it's a simpler probe. I used a 3in1 for while with only minor issues. Now it's my outdoor garden meter...


If you've bought feminized seeds then the breeders better hope there's no hermie traits. So for the most part every fem. seed is guaranteed to be a female, if it isn't then you complain to the manufacturer for a refund. I've seen feminized auto strains be 100% male so there's always the exception. I've also seen Hermies, But Hermies are typically a result of environmental conditions. I don't think you can force a male out of a feminized seed, you'll get hermie every time. Does that answers your question? :Namaste:


For clones? I'd say you'd be well off putting each in there own pot. I would, if I had to, put only two per pot. That way if/when one becomes dominant and chokes out the others, you'll only lose one instead of possibly two or more. It'll be the weakest ones that "suffocate", so if your looking for a mother then this a good way to select the strongest one. If your wanting to harvest them all I'd advise separate pots for each, even 3 gallons each would suffice. I'll have to come by and check them out... :circle-of-love:

KiG Everyone :green_heart:cheers

Done! I got 2 & 3 gallon pots for the best clones, the smaller ones will get 1 gallon if they pull through. Thank you for being so specific for my brain. .. gosh this thread is something money can't buy.
 
Absolutely! have read quite a few posts from Pennywise and he is very knowledgeable and we are thankful he was able to confirm. Did you mean to flush with a very weak nute solution to break up salts or a very strong one?


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If your in dwc I'd probably recommend asking someone like Rifleman about proper flushing. For me, in promix, I'll do a 1/2 strength solution with double the water. So technically it's like 1/4 strength. But hydro is not something I can comment on since I've never done it. I'm sure rifleman will be more specific on how to proceed on the "mild nute" solution flush.

Stinky Snid :green_heart:cheers
 
Any idea what I should do I'm not sure why but my plants keep stretching themselves and what's the stuff on top of the soil
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I figured that's why they were stretching just wanted to be sure and should I worry about stem strength. Also it's almost like a fungi on top of the soil


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