Are my seedlings healthy?

[Speed]

Ok so i take this out, fortunately my other one plant doesnt have anything like this, so i hope its a female!

 

[Speed]

I took the male out, and i noticed on the other plant 2 little hairs on the top sprouting from something, i will photo them on some days because now they are very tiny and i cant take a good shot not even with a magnifying glass, but im 99% sure that are female hairs.

 

[Speed]

Hello guys i took some picks of the only plant ive got now, take a look, its surely female!
The last 8 days ive got the lights in 12/12, actualy i let it in 13hours of dark and 11 hours of light is this ok or i should use 12/12?


Isnt she a beauty??

 

[Skybound]

She is a doll!

 

[rundmt]

not sure on the alcahol method, ill try and find a method that works and let you know, not sure if neem oil or something like that ill find out what i can,

i really think your main problem is heat, i didnt know you was using 24-0 as your light schedule, its not the best schedule to use as it dont allow for much root growth, a plant needs a good dark period, let me explain

a c3 plant which cannabis is will grow under any light schedule, so as long as its getting more than 14 hours of light per day it will stay in veg

now some growers use 24-0 and swear by it, ive tried all schedules, the best schedule i have found is glr but ill tell you what this is further down,

now here is why a night period really pays off, at night a plant uses its stored energy to do 3 things,
1, it repairs any damaged done during the lights on period,
2, it promotes upwards growth as the plant is trying to find the light again, the same thing happens when a plant is in the shade it stretches for the light, plus under 24-0 you will have more stretch when you flip 12-12
3, now this is the important part and why all plants will benefit much more from a dark period, at night plants send their nutrients and energy back down the plant to the roots, at night the roots develop,

this is all proven, a test was done with 3 plants, once grown under 24-0, one under 20-4 and one under 18-6, the plant under 24-0 had the smallest amount of root growth, 20-4 had only slightly more root growth, but the plant under 18-6 had much more roots,

now more roots means the plant can take in more nutrients and water, it also means the roots can support a bigger plant a lot sooner, this will benefit the plant and make it grow quicker, ive tried all lighting schedules and this is what i find,

24-0, yes plants will grow under this schedule, plants dont grow tall very fast they stay short and bushy, i find you end up vegging for longer under this schedule as most growers flip the lights to 12-12 according to plant size, so under 24-0 it takes longer to reach the height you want, also under this schedule their is a time in the day when the leaves go droopy as the plant tries to carry out its night times tasks while the lights are on, also when you flip 12-12 the plants stretch a lot more for the first 2 weeks of flower.
20-4, again works and i find works better than 20-4
18-6, i find this a great schedule to use, plants grow quick, when the lights come back on you find the plants have grown a lot during the dark period, plants seem much healthier and grow much better im my oppinion, plus when you flip to 12-12 they dont stretch as much, plants under 18-6 reach maturity quicker and show sex sooner,

now lets look at outdoor plants, fair enough the sun is putting out about 1000 watts per sq ft, but where on the planet do these plants get even 18 hours of light, outdoors plants are lucky if they get 15 hours of light and even some of that will be early morning light or late evening light and also the plant will be in the shade at some point in the day also, so their are not many places the plants get 18 hours of full light per day, if they was meant to get this much light per day then they would grow in regions nearer to the north pole and northern russia and europe, in fact we do have cannabis that grow that far north its called ruderalis, it grows when days are long for half the year and when days are short for half the year, this is where we get auto plants from as they flower due to age and not light schedule, so autos will flower under 24-0 from seed to harvest, which i find that even autos benefit and get much bigger given a dark period, again this is down to the root mass being a lot bigger,

so id at least use 20-4 or even go down to 18-6, im pretty sure you would be glad you did, i wont be using 24-0 or 20-4 again, i do use it but only for rooting clones or the first week of seedlings growth, after that it goes under 18-6, my last grow was 17-7 and again my autos did well and my plants grew quick and i flipped them to flower earlier as they got bigger that much quicker, so id say give your plants a good night period, have the lights running when the temps are lowest such as night time, and have the lights off in the hottest part of the day but make sure the area is totally dark where the plants are.

so get the temps sorted out and trust me on the light schedule, give the plants a dark period, all plants on this planet grow according to the 24 hour clock, but growing plants under 24-0 means they dont know what a day is, so it can cause problems, im pretty sure you will find the plants do much better when given a dark period,

now lets explain glr or gas lantern routine, this is an old school growing method, ive used it and found it works well and plants grow like crazy under this schedule plus they show sex much sooner and the flowering hormones are building up during the veg period due to the lighting schedule, so then when you do flip to 12-12 the plants flower a lot sooner and with more vigour,
so the gas lantery routine is this, 12 hours of light, 5.5 hours of dark, 1 hour of light, 5.5 hours of dark then start again,
its a veg schedule and not a flower schedule but basically your growing the plant under 12-12 but to stop it flowering your giving it 1 hour of light during the 12 hour dark period, you give it one hour of light in the middle of the dark period, this keeps the plant from flowering but also keeps the plant in the rapid growth you see when you flip the lights to 12-12, so your tricking the plants into thinking their flowering when their not, this lets the flowering hormone build up and the plant explodes with growth when you do go to flower,

i wouldnt go with glr just yet until you have grown a few plants as it is best used when growing conditions are all good so you can benefit from the extra growth, but glr is just 12-12 with 1 hour of light in the middle of the 12 hour dark period,
12 hours of light
5.5 hours of dark
1 hour of light
5.5 hours of dark
=24 hours, then you use that schedule until you go 12-12, when you go 12-12 theirs a flowering schedule to use also, its called deminishing light, its where you start on 12-12 then over the flowering period you give the plant more dark and less light, so you would go to 10-14 with 14 been the dark hours, then the further you get into flower the less light you give the plant,

sorry for all the info but i really believe and so do many others that these plants need a dark period, they follow a carcadium rythm, this means all plants follow a 24 hour day, when you use 24-0 the plants dont know what a day is and if they have been bred with a day cycle then they will benefit from a dark period each day,

plus it will help with your temps,

so id pick a light schedule and stick with it, then you can see what the temps are doing, i think the temps and light schedule are whats throwing you off at the minute, some will argue with me and say plants are c3 and dont need a dark period, well its been proven roots grow in the dark and plants under 18-6 produce nearly twice as much roots, now the more roots a plant has the more it can take in and the quicker it will grow, but the choice is yours, they will grow under 24-0 but i find a lot slower and the plants stay small and bushy,

brilliant thanks

 

[rundmt]

The synthesis of the soil i use is : turf(peat) 85%, organic substance vegetal origins 15%, perilte, sand, soil salinity 1,1gr/l, ph 5.2-6.0, EC 0.7mS/cm. Yeah the pots have many good sized holes under them. I have them in like a closet. Ill try to take some more pics of the plants.

your ph levels are way out to aratic surely investing in a cheap ph meter an ec pen works a treat im in coco like soil but hydro so am aiming for a ph of 5,7 to 6,1 your aim is to PH IT AT 6.5 TO 7,1 for soil but you dont seem to accept that if youre ph is off then your nutes are locked or lack accesss get your ph levels between 6.5 to 7.1 nutes are cheap enough now right ones as well with these you can go rong BUT PH LEVELS VERY IMPORTANT AS IMPORTANT AS NUTES VICE VERSE ALSO IF YOU want to create a dome for humidity use a pop bottle which you can cut to right levels an remove if to much return if neeeded also watering plant under lights will only burn an hurt your plant water the soil mate does help lol joke also yourr bang on with a ec pen reading how do you understaand that without reading it an doing maths lol belive me turning things into gals them litres them millitres grams milligrams you get all that but not your ph levels you see im a newbie i understand ph levels but basic ec or ppm tds gets me confuddled you put in 0.7 ec reading but excuse me , i understand this this of a ec pen as they put it in us???? x10 if over 1000 so how do you know its o.7ms/cm??? dont make sense sorry but still your ph level is 6.5 to 7,2 as 5.2 in soil is to low and in cooco or hydro is 5.8 to 6.2 you see i did an experiment with water 1 bottled ph tester broke as it went off the roof 7.4 an above also i just used it an it was fine lol after using it with bottled water its broke hahahahhah but back to point everyones been kind and tryd showing you your a bit out and if your using what i used as a 1st easy choice? cheap choice a chart and bottled ph tester then agin your guessing also helps if your not coloured blind like me lol i may of only started growing but i know ph is a start an end of the phase also depends on nutes are ok with soft water and hard please look at your PH LEVELS thanks

 

[rundmt]

dude danklover i dont know im maybe too high but i dont realy understand how could this help me or what should i do :S Ill read it again when im sober



I hope my babies go better with the nutes, i dont want them to die :/

your to low wow youre still not taking it all in please do read agagin shit faced youll take things in then good trying things out rthough

 

[donpaul.p]

yep their certainly female,

the ph level he gave is the ph of the compost direct from the bag, so chances are his ph is not far off where it needs to be, your leaves look fine to me if a little on the light side which suggests you need to start feeding nutes or start using nutrients but if your not using anything our sponsors sell and your using off the shelf products then go at a very low dose, i tried off the shelf fruit and veg nuts and picked up some liquid tomato feed, it says add 22ml per gallon but these plants cant take that nutrient past 5ml per gallon so go very easy on nutrients,

if you have got some spare cash then check out our sponsor dogget simpson, ive been lucky enough to try their nutrients and im blown away with the results, i was biased towards 1 company due to the results i was getting but since trying dogget simpson nutrients im very happy with the results and will be a long term customer from now on,

they also sell sample packs that are good for 1 or 2 plants from seed to harvest so that would be something worth buying.

the main issue you have got is lighting, your plants have stretched due to the lights your using, my first journal was using cfls and i got great results and a very nice yield at harvest, but i was using around 400 watts in total actual watts, i was using a load of 23 and 30 watt cfls,
now their are a couple of types of cfls you can by
the 6400k or white light are for veg and these i find are harder to get and can only be bought off line or in special lighting shops,
the 2700kelvin cfls are the regular household type cfls, these are whats needed for flower but for veg they make the plants stretch which looks like whats happened to yours,

so this grow will be a good learning curve for you so your next plants will be much better,
you will get buds this time round but it will only be a small amount due to the node spacing, with cfls its best to use some low stress training or even use a scrog, you want a nice even canopy so the whole plant is getting light, if the plant gets to tall then you need to add more cfl so you have some lighting further down the plant,

cfls need to be within 2 to 4 inches from the plant at the very most, cfls can light up a whole room but the lumins at distance is very low so you need to keep them close to the plants at all times,

so see this grow through to the end and you will get to sample your own buds, but when you plant some new seeds start off with some cool white or 6400k cfls, a 3 to 1 ratio would be idea, so 3x 6400k to 1 2700k cfl for veg and the opposite for flower, the more cfls you can use the bigger and better the plant will be and the better the yield.

 

[Speed]

Hello guys, i have a problem with the leaves on my plant, please take a look at the pics and if you can tell me whats going on ? :S
Its 3 weeks in flowering and ive feed it 2 times nutes, the one time i used 10-6-4 and the other time 8-10-12. Btw im using 3x2700kelvin cfl lamps.

and here is a pic of the one top of the plant

 

[donpaul.p]

Hi,
any chance we can see a full pic of the plant including the pot its in so we got some idea of height,

the lower leaves on my flowering plants turn yellow and die and its usually because not much light is getting to the bottom of the plant, but in flower if the plant is not getting fed enough then it will start using whats stored in the leaves so this can cause the leaves to go light green then yellow and die.

so from what i can see it looks like the top of the plant is ok and a healthy colour, if im wrong let me know.
so does the plant get worse the lower it gets so the bottom set of leaves are the worst and the top of the plant looks fine,

cfls dont give off much light so if the plants to tall then the lower branches and leaves wont be getting much light so this can be causing the problem your having,

but it could also be over watered, how often are you watering and does the pot dry out between waterings,

if it was to much nutrients then the ends of the leaves would look burned and go crispy but this would start on the lower leaves then work its way up but i dont see this, so i dont think its to much nutrients at this stage.

to be honest it looks like its either over watered, not enough nutrients depending on the dose you have give it, i have to feed nutrients every time i water the plants with what im using, so how much have you fed them of each nutrient, so if it says 22ml per gallon and you have give it much less then what dose did you give it, off the shelf products will be to harsh on the plants at full dose so dont give full dose but lets see what the stated full dose is and how much you actually gave the plant,

if the plant is not getting enough N nitrogen then the leaves will go light green then turn yellow, so let us know what nute dose you have given and what the stated dose is,
if its over watered then this can give the same symptons as your getting as the roots start to rot and the plant cant feed itself due to lack of oxygen at the roots, what i do is totally let my pots dry out, i dont let the plants wilt but my pots are very light when i water again, so if your pots are not drying out enough then the roots will be starved of oxygen and this can cause a similar problem,

ill post a link in my journal to your journal and see if anyone else can come over and have a look,

 

[Speed]

The only pic from whole plant that i have now is this :

Because i have the lights off now and i cant take one new pic. Also i water it every 6 - 7 days, the dose of my nutes is 1 cap of the bottle for small pots, i used less than half cap for being sure. Indeed the top parts of the plant and the flowers seems good.

 

[danklover79]

It looks to me like the plant is pulling nitrogen from the leaves, which is quite common in flower.

 

[Speed]

Yes but ive feed it with nutes :S Is it a big probelm? Or its a kind of normal?

 

[Skybound]

Did you measure out the amount of nutrients being added to a gallon or liter of water? Or just add a cap from the nutrient bottle? If the latter, what measure of water did you mix your nutrients into? I was also wondering what that soil composition is? When I was mixing nutrients to be fed into the soil, just mixing per gallon of water, a 3 part nutrient mix would not all be added in even dosage so I might add 2.5ml of one thing, and .8 of the next. So using cap fulls to measure out nutes might prove to be counter productive. But when I was able to dial in a happy zone, I'd say my safe zone for adding nutes into the FFOF was about 25%-35% recommended strength. When I tried to push in just a little bit stronger of a mix, the plant would start to respond negatively.

 

[donpaul.p]

how old would you say the plant is and how long has it been in that same pot, im just trying to work out if the soil is out of nutrients, if you have only fed it twice in flowering then if the soil is low on nutes then it may need more,

also when you lift up the pot is it light just before you water, then when you water make sure you water slowly and evenly over the pot, dont just pour the water on as this will form channels in the soil and just run out the bottom, it also compacts the soil as well its best to use some method that waters evenly and slowly, what i do is poke a load of holes in the top of a 2ltr pop bottle, then fill that with water then when i squirt it over the pot it waters it evenly and slowly and allows it to soak in,

the top of the plant seems to look ok, its hard to tell by the pics but the bottom seems to be getting very little light, so the leaves down the bottom of the plant will yellow, as my room is pretty crowded in flower i have yellow leaves at the bottom of the plants so i pull these off when they die as their not getting light so the plant dont use them,
are all your lights above the plant or do you have some side lighting, with cfls you dont get much light penetration so they need to be within 4ish inches from the plant for low watt cfls

what skybound said about the nutrients is spot on as well, you really need to find a way of measuring the nutrients, if you look on the bottle it should tell you a cap full measures as so much. so it will say something like add 1 cap full to 1 gallon of water, it should also say something like 1 capful is 10ml or 20ml depending on nutrient type, but it should give you the measurement in ml on the feeding guide on the bottle,

without measuring the dose you wont know how much you have given each time you feed the plant, its always best to start at a low dose,
for example,
i bought a nutrient called liquid tomato feed,
on the back it said add 1 cap full or 22ml per 4.5ltr of water (roughly 1 US gallon as it measures different where i am, so lets just say 22ml per gallon, now the NPK of this feed was 4-4-4,
now off the shelf products are way to hot for these plants, its why nutrient companies like our sponsors spend time and money producing products that work at the stated doses they give,

anyways its says add 22ml per gallon, now i know that will kill my plants, so i started at 2ml per gallon and the plants seemed ok, so the next time they needed watering i just gave plain water, no problems showed up so i bumped the dose up for the next feed, i went to 4ml per gallon and again no problems so just fed plain water the next feed, then i went up to 6ml per gallon, then i stared to see signs of nute burn at the edges of the leaves, so that tells me 6ml is to hot for these plants, so i dropped back down to 5ml and the plants was ok at that dose, but if i bumped it up more id have problems,

so measuring the nutrients is soemthing that needs doing, you can get measuring cups from most chemists for free,

so check what the stated dose is on your nutes, it should tell you in ml what to add to gallon,
as you said you gave less than half a cap then im thinking you got an all in one nutrient and possibly for fruit and veg, if its for houseplants then it might be risky to use due to the chemicals in it as its not meant for human consumption, so fruit and veg nutes are fine but getting the dose right takes a bit of trial and error.

 

[Speed]

I dont know the dose in ml because this nutes doesnt have to be mixed with water, on the bottle it writes that u just give a cap or more near the plant and then you water the plant and thats it, ill look again on the instructions. But ill try to measure the dose im giving to the plant and see. Also the plant is about 3 weeks in flower and its about 2 months and a week old, in this pot is from when it was 1 - 2 weeks old.

 

[donpaul.p]

ok
to me it sounds like the nutrients your using are going to constantly be causing you problems, if its asking you to pour neat nutrients onto the soil then this isnt going to spread the nutrients to all the roots, so most of it is going to either get washed out the bottom or just build up in one part of the soil then each time you water its going to flush it out the bottom,

so hearing that id say its a lack of nutrients, try and measure how much a cap full is, see how many tea spoons it takes to fill a cap up then we got a rough idea of what dose the full dose is, also is the nutrients a fruit and veg nute, is it a tomato nute or something similar,

so lets work out a better method of feeding the plant, work out how many tea spoons to fill the cap, then we can change that to ml and take it from their, i wouldnt get adding the nutrients to the soil anymore as if anything id say thats more suited for outdoor plants or plants that dont require much nutrients and dont need feeding often, so at the minute id have to say its lacking in N and thats whats causing the leaves to look a lighter shade of green.

if you have no choice but to use that nutrient then what i would do is work out how many tea spoons to fill the cap or if you have a syringe of anything else that measures ml such as small medicine measuring cup like the ones you get on top of cough medicine, most chemists should give you one of these for free if you ask them,

then i wouldnt feed the soil direct with the nutrients as its not a very efficient way of feeding the plant, once we know a rough ish estimate of the cap in ml then we can work out a feeding schedule for you that you can try and hopefully that will help pick things up a bit, the soil your using does it contain slow release nutrients or is it just regular compost, if its miracle grow or something similar then it will have slow release nutrients in it, if you have mentioned this before then ill appologise as im subbed to way to many journals so its hard to remember what everyone is doing,

its possible that the nutrient you are using is a time released nutrient if its saying add it to the soil, if it says slow release or time released nutrients on it then let us know, if it dont then id have to say the plant is lacking in N and could benefit from some nutrients,

so the best method would be to add the nutrients to the water before watering the plant,
for example im using dogget simpsons nutrients which is one of the sponsors on this site,
now they come with 3 bags, 1 for seeds, 1 for veg and one for flower stage of growth,
the dose for veg and flower is 1 table spoon per gallon of water, so i only mix up 2ltr at a time which is roughtly half a gallon, so i mix up half a table spoon of nutrients to 2ltr of water, so that works out ok as im still giving the stated dose,

but generic nutrients or all in one nutrients for fruit and veg are to strong so you need to start low, but your going to need to find a way of measuring the dose, the tomato feed i have used is ok at 5ml per gallon but if i go to 6ml per gallon i got nute burn, so 1ml is not a lot when your measuring with spoons or anything similar,

i think if it was me id work out what 1 cap is and base that on a gallon of water, so 1 cap to 1 gallon is full dose, but its pretty hard to judge with what your using as it dont say mix to 1 gallon, so id go with 1/4 to 1/5hth of the stated dose then add that to 1 gallon of water, then make sure its well mixed then water the plant with it, the thing that concerns me is if the nutrient you have got is slow release or not,

let us know what brand it is then we can check, its to hard for us to give a good answer without knowing what we are dealing with, so if its miracle grow granules or mircale grow slow release then let us know or if its something else let us know the name then we can have a read and see exactly whats in it and whats likely to be going on, its really difficult to judge without know what product your using,

 

[B A R]

No of course i didnt tell them that i want it for cannabis, i told them i wanna plant seeds and they told me that this is very good for planting seeds, not for a specific type of plant.

I find it better to tell the sales person at the plant store exactly what your growing so they can have a better idea of what you need. Here I've come to realize that 10 percent of their clientele grow cannabis. But if you live in a town like Mayberry They might tell Andy.

Hello, the pots have 17cm height and 60cm perimeter, from one side to the other is about 20cm, the one plant is about 16cm tall and the other is 20cm. I planted them when they sprouted at 27/7, then at 9/8 i transplanted them in the pots i have now. Also i dont have a fan blowing straight at the leaves, the fan aims at the wall and the leaves just breezes a little, not strong.

That's exactly how I blow my fan.

I dont know the dose in ml because this nutes doesnt have to be mixed with water, on the bottle it writes that u just give a cap or more near the plant and then you water the plant and thats it, ill look again on the instructions. But ill try to measure the dose im giving to the plant and see. Also the plant is about 3 weeks in flower and its about 2 months and a week old, in this pot is from when it was 1 - 2 weeks old.

I have a plant just about ready for harvest but I have 2 seedlings that just sprouted. They're my 1st plants from scratch. I've just done a complete & thorough reading of your journal & I must admit; I'm impressed!

There were plenty of questions answered here that I wont have to ask because you've already asked them. The 420 circle of love continues... &

 

[Skybound]

BAR FOR PRESIDENT, or at least the guy on the block they give the fire hydrant key to...

 

[B A R]

Actually that would be the President of the Block Association.