- Thread starter
- #81
Are my seedlings healthy?
- Thread starter Speed
- Start date
but i dont realy understand how could this help me or what should i do 
:S Ill read it again when im sober 
danklover79
New Member
Sorry speed, I kinda jacked your thread to bs with skybound, just got stoned myself, and was stoned when I went on that rant, lol.
- Thread starter
- #83
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Oh, it's jacked! It's all love though. He was just trying to point out that a coffee filter wouldn't interrupt the pH level during the test I did.
- Thread starter
- #85
Hey guys, i just took some more pics of my plants as you told me. I dont think that today are better :S I dont know take a look.
Here are the pics, they are many
The one plants is this :
And the other plant is this :
Also i have noticed some of these shits on the leaves of my babies or they fly around.
The pic with the white little shits is not from my plants i found it on web just to show u how they look like.
Here are the pics, they are many
The one plants is this :
And the other plant is this :
Also i have noticed some of these shits on the leaves of my babies or they fly around.
The pic with the white little shits is not from my plants i found it on web just to show u how they look like.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
get stick traps and hang them around the grow area. I saw some aphid traps in my local hydro store so maybe you can find something local. Also, are they cotyledon (round leaves first out when seedling sprouts) leaves on the bottom? If yes, I've never saw a plant so tall that still had those on. Also never saw alternating nodes on such a young plant as yours. I learn something new every day.
- Thread starter
- #87
ok this is what i see, the plants actually look fine and slightly better than they did a couple of days back,
the top plant is clearly suffering with heat stress, you need to either raise the light or get the temps down, you see the top set of leaves, well they should be totally flat, but if you look all the leaves on the top few pics clearly show the edges of the leaves curling upwards, this is clearly signs the temps are way to high for that strain, the leaves should be totally falt, with the surrated bit sticking up or the edges sticking up is telling you the plant is trying to lose moisture as its just to hot,
when the temps are right the leaves will be totally flat with nothing at all sticking upwards, so you either have the light to close to the plants or you grow space is not vented enough and the heat is building up in the grow space, i have to leave my grow door open to keep the temps down, i also have a fan sitting on a chair outside the grow space so its blowing air into the grow space, if my door is shut then within 12 hours my leaves end up looking like yours, its usually only the top set of leaves and this suggest the temps lower down in the grow room are fine but higher up at canopy level the temps are to hot for the plants,
so you have 2 options, well 3 but lets go with the 2 options that are quick easy and cheap to solve,
1 you need to raise the light another couple of inches and see if that lowers the temp at canopy level,
2 you need to vent more air into the grow space, either by having grow door open or having a fan blowing cool air into the grow room,
now option 3 would be to spend money on a squirel fan and ducting so you are pulling air out the top of the grow space and drawing cooler air into the bottom of the grow space, but this option means you need to spend money on a squirel fan or possibly 2 and enough ducting to run it to an open window to either vent the air out or suck the cooler air in, you could always buy a cool tube or sealed hood for the light but again that means you got to spend money and if thats is not possible then you only have option 1 or 2 to go with,
i cant drill holes in my grow space so i cant have ducting and fans blowing air out and sucking cool air in, so my option is to have a 12v fan at the end of my light hood so its sucking the air out of the hood and blowing it to the side of the grow space, this stops the heat building up in the hood as the fan is blowing the hot air out of the hood, then i have another 12v computer fan blowing air across the tops of the plants, but i still have my door open when the light is on, if the temps are still to high then i use a desktop fan and have that on its slowest setting sitting on a chair just outside the grow space door and its blowing the cool air into the grow space,
now your bottom plant looks like its been topped, maybe you said this earlier on but it certainly looks to me like its been topped as you have got 2 main stems growing up from the top of the stem
so the problem may just be a heat issue, to me the plants look a better shade of green after the watering and low nutrient dose, but the pics clearly show plant numner 1 is suffering from heat still, lower the temps and them leaves will stop raising up at the edges, while the temps are to high the plants will just be stretching and not much growth will be going on with the leaves or side branchesm
outdoors the plants stretch to reach cooler air or to get into the breeze, indoors they do the same but they end up getting into even hotter air so they just keep on stretching,
so you need to get the temps down at canopy level, the leaves lower down the plant look ok and not cupping up at the edges, so this suggests you have a heat trap higher up at the level of the canopy, this could be the light putting off heat at the level, the heat will rise but the light will be giving off heat in all directions before it actually rises, plus when the heat rises it needs somewhere to go, if it rises and builds up then the whole room will slowly warm up from the top down.
im pretty sure once you have got the heat sorted out then the plants will be fine, theirs nothing major wrong with them, their not getting any worse so id say at this point the problem you have got is just high temps
the top plant is clearly suffering with heat stress, you need to either raise the light or get the temps down, you see the top set of leaves, well they should be totally flat, but if you look all the leaves on the top few pics clearly show the edges of the leaves curling upwards, this is clearly signs the temps are way to high for that strain, the leaves should be totally falt, with the surrated bit sticking up or the edges sticking up is telling you the plant is trying to lose moisture as its just to hot,
when the temps are right the leaves will be totally flat with nothing at all sticking upwards, so you either have the light to close to the plants or you grow space is not vented enough and the heat is building up in the grow space, i have to leave my grow door open to keep the temps down, i also have a fan sitting on a chair outside the grow space so its blowing air into the grow space, if my door is shut then within 12 hours my leaves end up looking like yours, its usually only the top set of leaves and this suggest the temps lower down in the grow room are fine but higher up at canopy level the temps are to hot for the plants,
so you have 2 options, well 3 but lets go with the 2 options that are quick easy and cheap to solve,
1 you need to raise the light another couple of inches and see if that lowers the temp at canopy level,
2 you need to vent more air into the grow space, either by having grow door open or having a fan blowing cool air into the grow room,
now option 3 would be to spend money on a squirel fan and ducting so you are pulling air out the top of the grow space and drawing cooler air into the bottom of the grow space, but this option means you need to spend money on a squirel fan or possibly 2 and enough ducting to run it to an open window to either vent the air out or suck the cooler air in, you could always buy a cool tube or sealed hood for the light but again that means you got to spend money and if thats is not possible then you only have option 1 or 2 to go with,
i cant drill holes in my grow space so i cant have ducting and fans blowing air out and sucking cool air in, so my option is to have a 12v fan at the end of my light hood so its sucking the air out of the hood and blowing it to the side of the grow space, this stops the heat building up in the hood as the fan is blowing the hot air out of the hood, then i have another 12v computer fan blowing air across the tops of the plants, but i still have my door open when the light is on, if the temps are still to high then i use a desktop fan and have that on its slowest setting sitting on a chair just outside the grow space door and its blowing the cool air into the grow space,
now your bottom plant looks like its been topped, maybe you said this earlier on but it certainly looks to me like its been topped as you have got 2 main stems growing up from the top of the stem
so the problem may just be a heat issue, to me the plants look a better shade of green after the watering and low nutrient dose, but the pics clearly show plant numner 1 is suffering from heat still, lower the temps and them leaves will stop raising up at the edges, while the temps are to high the plants will just be stretching and not much growth will be going on with the leaves or side branchesm
outdoors the plants stretch to reach cooler air or to get into the breeze, indoors they do the same but they end up getting into even hotter air so they just keep on stretching,
so you need to get the temps down at canopy level, the leaves lower down the plant look ok and not cupping up at the edges, so this suggests you have a heat trap higher up at the level of the canopy, this could be the light putting off heat at the level, the heat will rise but the light will be giving off heat in all directions before it actually rises, plus when the heat rises it needs somewhere to go, if it rises and builds up then the whole room will slowly warm up from the top down.
im pretty sure once you have got the heat sorted out then the plants will be fine, theirs nothing major wrong with them, their not getting any worse so id say at this point the problem you have got is just high temps
alternating nodes means the side branches are not growing opposite each other, early on in the plants life you see that the side branches on the main stem grow opposite each other, so the branch to the left of the stem will start at the same place as the right hand branch coming off the stem,
then each new branch will have branches growing opposite each other early on in the plants life, from about week 4 to 6 the growth changes and the branches stop growing opposite each other, they start to alternate, so the branch on the left will grow and then the branch on the right will start further up the stem up branch, this is alternating nodes, the branches stop mirroring each other and grow at seperate points along the stem or branch, this happens when the plant is mature and ready to go into flower, usually around week 6 for most plants.
when a plants mature and ready for flower it will have alternating nodes and the plant will show sex, most growers put the plants under 12-12 before they are mature enough, this forces them to mature quicker but left in veg long enough the plants will show sex such as white hairs growing at the nodes or male balls starting to grow, so when you see this happening you know the plant is mature and at the correct age to go into flower, they also start to flower quicker when they are mature, but it takes time for a plant to be matuer and certain lighting schedules can make a plant mature at different rates,
a plant grown under 24-0 will take a lot longer to mature as its not getting any night time period,
a plant grown under 18-6 will mature a lot quicker so will show sex and alternating nodes a couple of weeks earlier than 24-0.
then each new branch will have branches growing opposite each other early on in the plants life, from about week 4 to 6 the growth changes and the branches stop growing opposite each other, they start to alternate, so the branch on the left will grow and then the branch on the right will start further up the stem up branch, this is alternating nodes, the branches stop mirroring each other and grow at seperate points along the stem or branch, this happens when the plant is mature and ready to go into flower, usually around week 6 for most plants.
when a plants mature and ready for flower it will have alternating nodes and the plant will show sex, most growers put the plants under 12-12 before they are mature enough, this forces them to mature quicker but left in veg long enough the plants will show sex such as white hairs growing at the nodes or male balls starting to grow, so when you see this happening you know the plant is mature and at the correct age to go into flower, they also start to flower quicker when they are mature, but it takes time for a plant to be matuer and certain lighting schedules can make a plant mature at different rates,
a plant grown under 24-0 will take a lot longer to mature as its not getting any night time period,
a plant grown under 18-6 will mature a lot quicker so will show sex and alternating nodes a couple of weeks earlier than 24-0.
sorry forgot to add something about the buds you have found
White Flies / Whitefly
White flies behave just like spider mites.
The insect hides underneath the leaf, sucks dinner from the essential nutrients in the plant.
This results in white spots on the top side of the leaf.
White flies are easily spotted with the naked eye. If you shake the plant a little, they'll fly around. They look like little white moths, around 2 millimeters in size.
Solution: ·A white fly problem can be solved basically the same way as aphids. My favorite way to get rid of them is misting your plants in a solution made of 1 part SM90, 5 parts water.
When you spray the plants, and make sure you get the undersides of the leaves(that's where they lay eggs).
You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off(or else the leaves will get burned
so theirs some info on the white fly, these bugs suck the nutrients out of the leaves and hide under the leaves, so if you have these in your grow area or near the grow area then these are living off the plants nutrients, this will cause the problem your having to some degree, a couple wont do much damage but when they breed they will destroy a plant if given long enough and if they breed fast enough,
so you need to find something to get rid of these bugs, they are sucking the goodness out of your plant and this will affect the leaves and growth, at this stage of growth you can use a bug spray for fruit and veg plants but follow the instructions on the bottles, our sponsors sell some great products that are totally safe for these plants, you want to control these bugs as soon as possible before they get out of hand and cause some major problems,
sprays will work well but follow instructions carefully and make sure the product is safe for edible plants or plants that produce edible fruit or veg,
White Flies / Whitefly
White flies behave just like spider mites.
The insect hides underneath the leaf, sucks dinner from the essential nutrients in the plant.
This results in white spots on the top side of the leaf.
White flies are easily spotted with the naked eye. If you shake the plant a little, they'll fly around. They look like little white moths, around 2 millimeters in size.
Solution: ·A white fly problem can be solved basically the same way as aphids. My favorite way to get rid of them is misting your plants in a solution made of 1 part SM90, 5 parts water.
When you spray the plants, and make sure you get the undersides of the leaves(that's where they lay eggs).
You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off(or else the leaves will get burned
so theirs some info on the white fly, these bugs suck the nutrients out of the leaves and hide under the leaves, so if you have these in your grow area or near the grow area then these are living off the plants nutrients, this will cause the problem your having to some degree, a couple wont do much damage but when they breed they will destroy a plant if given long enough and if they breed fast enough,
so you need to find something to get rid of these bugs, they are sucking the goodness out of your plant and this will affect the leaves and growth, at this stage of growth you can use a bug spray for fruit and veg plants but follow the instructions on the bottles, our sponsors sell some great products that are totally safe for these plants, you want to control these bugs as soon as possible before they get out of hand and cause some major problems,
sprays will work well but follow instructions carefully and make sure the product is safe for edible plants or plants that produce edible fruit or veg,
- Thread starter
- #91
Hello, so the main problem you see is heat and nothing else right? Ok i will try to make them getting more fresh air, i already raised the lights, and ill start turn of the lights for 2-3 hours i think it will help for maturing and for lower the heat, because now i have the light 24-0. Also i have to see what can i do with the white shit flies. I read that if i mix alcohol with water (at least 30% water) and spray the leaves they will possibly get their ass out of my babies leaves.
The good thing i see is that the plant number 2 is growing very fast and its growth is not stunned, the other one is maybe a little behind in growth from the other but heat maybe caused this.
About topping, tommorow ill maybe top again the 2nd plant to have 4 main stems as it grows very fast.
In addition im thinking in around 2 weeks to put my babies into flowering you think in about 2 weeks its good time for start flowering?
I hope both plants to be female coz till now i dont know their sex!
The good thing i see is that the plant number 2 is growing very fast and its growth is not stunned, the other one is maybe a little behind in growth from the other but heat maybe caused this.
About topping, tommorow ill maybe top again the 2nd plant to have 4 main stems as it grows very fast.
In addition im thinking in around 2 weeks to put my babies into flowering you think in about 2 weeks its good time for start flowering?
I hope both plants to be female coz till now i dont know their sex!
not sure on the alcahol method, ill try and find a method that works and let you know, not sure if neem oil or something like that ill find out what i can,
i really think your main problem is heat, i didnt know you was using 24-0 as your light schedule, its not the best schedule to use as it dont allow for much root growth, a plant needs a good dark period, let me explain
a c3 plant which cannabis is will grow under any light schedule, so as long as its getting more than 14 hours of light per day it will stay in veg
now some growers use 24-0 and swear by it, ive tried all schedules, the best schedule i have found is glr but ill tell you what this is further down,
now here is why a night period really pays off, at night a plant uses its stored energy to do 3 things,
1, it repairs any damaged done during the lights on period,
2, it promotes upwards growth as the plant is trying to find the light again, the same thing happens when a plant is in the shade it stretches for the light, plus under 24-0 you will have more stretch when you flip 12-12
3, now this is the important part and why all plants will benefit much more from a dark period, at night plants send their nutrients and energy back down the plant to the roots, at night the roots develop,
this is all proven, a test was done with 3 plants, once grown under 24-0, one under 20-4 and one under 18-6, the plant under 24-0 had the smallest amount of root growth, 20-4 had only slightly more root growth, but the plant under 18-6 had much more roots,
now more roots means the plant can take in more nutrients and water, it also means the roots can support a bigger plant a lot sooner, this will benefit the plant and make it grow quicker, ive tried all lighting schedules and this is what i find,
24-0, yes plants will grow under this schedule, plants dont grow tall very fast they stay short and bushy, i find you end up vegging for longer under this schedule as most growers flip the lights to 12-12 according to plant size, so under 24-0 it takes longer to reach the height you want, also under this schedule their is a time in the day when the leaves go droopy as the plant tries to carry out its night times tasks while the lights are on, also when you flip 12-12 the plants stretch a lot more for the first 2 weeks of flower.
20-4, again works and i find works better than 20-4
18-6, i find this a great schedule to use, plants grow quick, when the lights come back on you find the plants have grown a lot during the dark period, plants seem much healthier and grow much better im my oppinion, plus when you flip to 12-12 they dont stretch as much, plants under 18-6 reach maturity quicker and show sex sooner,
now lets look at outdoor plants, fair enough the sun is putting out about 1000 watts per sq ft, but where on the planet do these plants get even 18 hours of light, outdoors plants are lucky if they get 15 hours of light and even some of that will be early morning light or late evening light and also the plant will be in the shade at some point in the day also, so their are not many places the plants get 18 hours of full light per day, if they was meant to get this much light per day then they would grow in regions nearer to the north pole and northern russia and europe, in fact we do have cannabis that grow that far north its called ruderalis, it grows when days are long for half the year and when days are short for half the year, this is where we get auto plants from as they flower due to age and not light schedule, so autos will flower under 24-0 from seed to harvest, which i find that even autos benefit and get much bigger given a dark period, again this is down to the root mass being a lot bigger,
so id at least use 20-4 or even go down to 18-6, im pretty sure you would be glad you did, i wont be using 24-0 or 20-4 again, i do use it but only for rooting clones or the first week of seedlings growth, after that it goes under 18-6, my last grow was 17-7 and again my autos did well and my plants grew quick and i flipped them to flower earlier as they got bigger that much quicker, so id say give your plants a good night period, have the lights running when the temps are lowest such as night time, and have the lights off in the hottest part of the day but make sure the area is totally dark where the plants are.
so get the temps sorted out and trust me on the light schedule, give the plants a dark period, all plants on this planet grow according to the 24 hour clock, but growing plants under 24-0 means they dont know what a day is, so it can cause problems, im pretty sure you will find the plants do much better when given a dark period,
now lets explain glr or gas lantern routine, this is an old school growing method, ive used it and found it works well and plants grow like crazy under this schedule plus they show sex much sooner and the flowering hormones are building up during the veg period due to the lighting schedule, so then when you do flip to 12-12 the plants flower a lot sooner and with more vigour,
so the gas lantery routine is this, 12 hours of light, 5.5 hours of dark, 1 hour of light, 5.5 hours of dark then start again,
its a veg schedule and not a flower schedule but basically your growing the plant under 12-12 but to stop it flowering your giving it 1 hour of light during the 12 hour dark period, you give it one hour of light in the middle of the dark period, this keeps the plant from flowering but also keeps the plant in the rapid growth you see when you flip the lights to 12-12, so your tricking the plants into thinking their flowering when their not, this lets the flowering hormone build up and the plant explodes with growth when you do go to flower,
i wouldnt go with glr just yet until you have grown a few plants as it is best used when growing conditions are all good so you can benefit from the extra growth, but glr is just 12-12 with 1 hour of light in the middle of the 12 hour dark period,
12 hours of light
5.5 hours of dark
1 hour of light
5.5 hours of dark
=24 hours, then you use that schedule until you go 12-12, when you go 12-12 theirs a flowering schedule to use also, its called deminishing light, its where you start on 12-12 then over the flowering period you give the plant more dark and less light, so you would go to 10-14 with 14 been the dark hours, then the further you get into flower the less light you give the plant,
sorry for all the info but i really believe and so do many others that these plants need a dark period, they follow a carcadium rythm, this means all plants follow a 24 hour day, when you use 24-0 the plants dont know what a day is and if they have been bred with a day cycle then they will benefit from a dark period each day,
plus it will help with your temps,
so id pick a light schedule and stick with it, then you can see what the temps are doing, i think the temps and light schedule are whats throwing you off at the minute, some will argue with me and say plants are c3 and dont need a dark period, well its been proven roots grow in the dark and plants under 18-6 produce nearly twice as much roots, now the more roots a plant has the more it can take in and the quicker it will grow, but the choice is yours, they will grow under 24-0 but i find a lot slower and the plants stay small and bushy,
i really think your main problem is heat, i didnt know you was using 24-0 as your light schedule, its not the best schedule to use as it dont allow for much root growth, a plant needs a good dark period, let me explain
a c3 plant which cannabis is will grow under any light schedule, so as long as its getting more than 14 hours of light per day it will stay in veg
now some growers use 24-0 and swear by it, ive tried all schedules, the best schedule i have found is glr but ill tell you what this is further down,
now here is why a night period really pays off, at night a plant uses its stored energy to do 3 things,
1, it repairs any damaged done during the lights on period,
2, it promotes upwards growth as the plant is trying to find the light again, the same thing happens when a plant is in the shade it stretches for the light, plus under 24-0 you will have more stretch when you flip 12-12
3, now this is the important part and why all plants will benefit much more from a dark period, at night plants send their nutrients and energy back down the plant to the roots, at night the roots develop,
this is all proven, a test was done with 3 plants, once grown under 24-0, one under 20-4 and one under 18-6, the plant under 24-0 had the smallest amount of root growth, 20-4 had only slightly more root growth, but the plant under 18-6 had much more roots,
now more roots means the plant can take in more nutrients and water, it also means the roots can support a bigger plant a lot sooner, this will benefit the plant and make it grow quicker, ive tried all lighting schedules and this is what i find,
24-0, yes plants will grow under this schedule, plants dont grow tall very fast they stay short and bushy, i find you end up vegging for longer under this schedule as most growers flip the lights to 12-12 according to plant size, so under 24-0 it takes longer to reach the height you want, also under this schedule their is a time in the day when the leaves go droopy as the plant tries to carry out its night times tasks while the lights are on, also when you flip 12-12 the plants stretch a lot more for the first 2 weeks of flower.
20-4, again works and i find works better than 20-4
18-6, i find this a great schedule to use, plants grow quick, when the lights come back on you find the plants have grown a lot during the dark period, plants seem much healthier and grow much better im my oppinion, plus when you flip to 12-12 they dont stretch as much, plants under 18-6 reach maturity quicker and show sex sooner,
now lets look at outdoor plants, fair enough the sun is putting out about 1000 watts per sq ft, but where on the planet do these plants get even 18 hours of light, outdoors plants are lucky if they get 15 hours of light and even some of that will be early morning light or late evening light and also the plant will be in the shade at some point in the day also, so their are not many places the plants get 18 hours of full light per day, if they was meant to get this much light per day then they would grow in regions nearer to the north pole and northern russia and europe, in fact we do have cannabis that grow that far north its called ruderalis, it grows when days are long for half the year and when days are short for half the year, this is where we get auto plants from as they flower due to age and not light schedule, so autos will flower under 24-0 from seed to harvest, which i find that even autos benefit and get much bigger given a dark period, again this is down to the root mass being a lot bigger,
so id at least use 20-4 or even go down to 18-6, im pretty sure you would be glad you did, i wont be using 24-0 or 20-4 again, i do use it but only for rooting clones or the first week of seedlings growth, after that it goes under 18-6, my last grow was 17-7 and again my autos did well and my plants grew quick and i flipped them to flower earlier as they got bigger that much quicker, so id say give your plants a good night period, have the lights running when the temps are lowest such as night time, and have the lights off in the hottest part of the day but make sure the area is totally dark where the plants are.
so get the temps sorted out and trust me on the light schedule, give the plants a dark period, all plants on this planet grow according to the 24 hour clock, but growing plants under 24-0 means they dont know what a day is, so it can cause problems, im pretty sure you will find the plants do much better when given a dark period,
now lets explain glr or gas lantern routine, this is an old school growing method, ive used it and found it works well and plants grow like crazy under this schedule plus they show sex much sooner and the flowering hormones are building up during the veg period due to the lighting schedule, so then when you do flip to 12-12 the plants flower a lot sooner and with more vigour,
so the gas lantery routine is this, 12 hours of light, 5.5 hours of dark, 1 hour of light, 5.5 hours of dark then start again,
its a veg schedule and not a flower schedule but basically your growing the plant under 12-12 but to stop it flowering your giving it 1 hour of light during the 12 hour dark period, you give it one hour of light in the middle of the dark period, this keeps the plant from flowering but also keeps the plant in the rapid growth you see when you flip the lights to 12-12, so your tricking the plants into thinking their flowering when their not, this lets the flowering hormone build up and the plant explodes with growth when you do go to flower,
i wouldnt go with glr just yet until you have grown a few plants as it is best used when growing conditions are all good so you can benefit from the extra growth, but glr is just 12-12 with 1 hour of light in the middle of the 12 hour dark period,
12 hours of light
5.5 hours of dark
1 hour of light
5.5 hours of dark
=24 hours, then you use that schedule until you go 12-12, when you go 12-12 theirs a flowering schedule to use also, its called deminishing light, its where you start on 12-12 then over the flowering period you give the plant more dark and less light, so you would go to 10-14 with 14 been the dark hours, then the further you get into flower the less light you give the plant,
sorry for all the info but i really believe and so do many others that these plants need a dark period, they follow a carcadium rythm, this means all plants follow a 24 hour day, when you use 24-0 the plants dont know what a day is and if they have been bred with a day cycle then they will benefit from a dark period each day,
plus it will help with your temps,
so id pick a light schedule and stick with it, then you can see what the temps are doing, i think the temps and light schedule are whats throwing you off at the minute, some will argue with me and say plants are c3 and dont need a dark period, well its been proven roots grow in the dark and plants under 18-6 produce nearly twice as much roots, now the more roots a plant has the more it can take in and the quicker it will grow, but the choice is yours, they will grow under 24-0 but i find a lot slower and the plants stay small and bushy,
all we can do is see how they are in 2 weeks, id wait until the plants are looking good and you know you have got no problems, the last thing you want is to keep having problems in flower as it will reduce yield, i put my plants into flower when their about 1ft high and the side branches have got branches of their own, that way you will have lots of buds instead of just a few
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Great post donpaul. +REPs for skoolin us noobs!
The kind of work I do, I might be out bouncing from job to job w/o going home to rest, eat or shower. At times we might be in this mode for 60 consecutive hours eating gas station food and sleeping in the truck. this kind of life style is extremely hard on the body and I liken to a 24-0 day because after about 15 hours of work I lose sight of what time it is, what day it is, and even what month it is if in the field for too long. My equilibrium gets all out of whack, so I definitely agree 100% with everything you just shared with speed, and I want you to know I benefited too.
Great share brother!!
Edit, I also grow under the 18-6, it helps my plant a lot and allows it to accomplish in a day what it needs to get done.
The kind of work I do, I might be out bouncing from job to job w/o going home to rest, eat or shower. At times we might be in this mode for 60 consecutive hours eating gas station food and sleeping in the truck. this kind of life style is extremely hard on the body and I liken to a 24-0 day because after about 15 hours of work I lose sight of what time it is, what day it is, and even what month it is if in the field for too long. My equilibrium gets all out of whack, so I definitely agree 100% with everything you just shared with speed, and I want you to know I benefited too.
Great share brother!!
Edit, I also grow under the 18-6, it helps my plant a lot and allows it to accomplish in a day what it needs to get done.
- Thread starter
- #95
Thank you very much for the analyzing donpaul you help me very much to understand cannabis flower. Ok ive started already to put them in 18-6, also i leave the grow room door open and a fan is blowing fresh air from outside to the grow room. Also in some hours im gonna top the one plant again. I wanna ask you something more, in the 6 hours of dark, can i use black bags to cover them? So they wont get any light and they will be in absolute dark. Can i use this method with the black bags and in flowering period?
Edit: I just topped it, the bigger one.
Here is a pic of the topped one, i hope i did the topping correctly.
Edit: I just topped it, the bigger one.
Here is a pic of the topped one, i hope i did the topping correctly.
- Thread starter
- #96
Hey again guys, today i added a mini fan inside the grow room to lower the heat, it doesnt aim the leaves and gives them a small breeze, also i have and another bigger fan outside the grow room blowing cool air. Today they seem better, their leaves are not so cupped up. But i noticed on the one smaller plant that in the edges of the most of it leaves its like very light green to yellow, but only in the edges, it seems like a bit nutrient burn or heat stress but it looks better than previous days.
hi all,
dont use black bags to put over the plants, this will make them sweat and cause powdery mildew problems, basically the plants will start to rot as the humidity will be really high inside the bags, so black bags are a no no,
it sounds like you have got a small amount of nute burn, so dont use any nutes for the next couple of feeds, just give plain water, you will know when it needs nutrients as the leaves will start to get a lighter shade of green, but in soil you can easily go 4 weeks with no nutrients, some soils will go much further and easily go 5 or 6 weeks without nutrients,
theirs also soils out their that you can buy that dont need any nutrients for the whole grow, you can either make your own its called super soil, you just then water the plants and nothing else needs adding, look up subcool super soil on the video sharing site, it will then show you how he makes it and what you need to add, also out sponsors on this site sell something similar, the sponsor is scientific soils, so might be worth checking them out,
now with the light schedule your using in veg its not so vital that the plants are totally dark during veg, their is a light schedule i use called gas lantern routine, its basically a 12-12 schedule but to keep the plants in veg you give 1 hour of light in the middle of the 12 hour dark period,
so 12 hours of light,
5.5 hours of dark.
1 hour of light.
5.5 hours of dark then repeat,
its in flower that its important not to let any light in during the 12 hour dark period, any light leaks during flower will cause the plants to go hermie and turn to seed, so make sure when you go to 12-12 that the plants get totally dark during the 12 hour dark period,
in veg its not so important but i still like to make sure the plants are in the dark when the lights are off, this will reduce any stress, so dont use bin bags or any other type of bag to cover the plants,
isnt their anyway the dark period can be run at night so it is actually getting the 6 hours dark period, or use a big box or something but make sure you take it off at same time each day.
so see what you can sort out with the light schedule running the lights are night helps keep the temps down but if you cant keep the area dark during the dark period then id run the lights during the day so the plants do actually get the dark period. you could use 20-4 if thats easier, under 18-6 the roots grow faster and this helps the plant, under 20-4 the roots still grow quicker than 24-0 so 20-4 is ok to use, 24-0 is ok to use and some growers will only use that schedule, but i get better results when my plants get a good dark period
last veg i was using 17-7, plants grew like crazy and i was able to put the plants into flower a bit sooner, but 18-6 is a good schedule to us as its proven it produces the most root growth over the length of the grow plus you get less stretch when you flip to 12-12.
see what you can work out with the light schedule, its best to try and give the plants total darkness when the lights are off, so maybe use a box or something, plastic bags will make them sweat, paper bags would be ok but its finding bags big enough,
dont use black bags to put over the plants, this will make them sweat and cause powdery mildew problems, basically the plants will start to rot as the humidity will be really high inside the bags, so black bags are a no no,
it sounds like you have got a small amount of nute burn, so dont use any nutes for the next couple of feeds, just give plain water, you will know when it needs nutrients as the leaves will start to get a lighter shade of green, but in soil you can easily go 4 weeks with no nutrients, some soils will go much further and easily go 5 or 6 weeks without nutrients,
theirs also soils out their that you can buy that dont need any nutrients for the whole grow, you can either make your own its called super soil, you just then water the plants and nothing else needs adding, look up subcool super soil on the video sharing site, it will then show you how he makes it and what you need to add, also out sponsors on this site sell something similar, the sponsor is scientific soils, so might be worth checking them out,
now with the light schedule your using in veg its not so vital that the plants are totally dark during veg, their is a light schedule i use called gas lantern routine, its basically a 12-12 schedule but to keep the plants in veg you give 1 hour of light in the middle of the 12 hour dark period,
so 12 hours of light,
5.5 hours of dark.
1 hour of light.
5.5 hours of dark then repeat,
its in flower that its important not to let any light in during the 12 hour dark period, any light leaks during flower will cause the plants to go hermie and turn to seed, so make sure when you go to 12-12 that the plants get totally dark during the 12 hour dark period,
in veg its not so important but i still like to make sure the plants are in the dark when the lights are off, this will reduce any stress, so dont use bin bags or any other type of bag to cover the plants,
isnt their anyway the dark period can be run at night so it is actually getting the 6 hours dark period, or use a big box or something but make sure you take it off at same time each day.
so see what you can sort out with the light schedule running the lights are night helps keep the temps down but if you cant keep the area dark during the dark period then id run the lights during the day so the plants do actually get the dark period. you could use 20-4 if thats easier, under 18-6 the roots grow faster and this helps the plant, under 20-4 the roots still grow quicker than 24-0 so 20-4 is ok to use, 24-0 is ok to use and some growers will only use that schedule, but i get better results when my plants get a good dark period
last veg i was using 17-7, plants grew like crazy and i was able to put the plants into flower a bit sooner, but 18-6 is a good schedule to us as its proven it produces the most root growth over the length of the grow plus you get less stretch when you flip to 12-12.
see what you can work out with the light schedule, its best to try and give the plants total darkness when the lights are off, so maybe use a box or something, plastic bags will make them sweat, paper bags would be ok but its finding bags big enough,
- Thread starter
- #98
Hello i took some new picks of my babies, i think they are better than the last days. I topped and the second plant, and i use light schedule 18 - 6 now. In a future grow i will try the gas latern routine but for now i need to see whats going on with the 18-6.
Take a look and tell me how do they look like. Do they seem to have any other problems ? :S
I know some of their leaves are still cupped up by heat but i think that now they will get better with the new fan, and with the better air circulation.
The one plant :
And the other plant (with the nut burn prob) :
Take a look and tell me how do they look like. Do they seem to have any other problems ? :S
I know some of their leaves are still cupped up by heat but i think that now they will get better with the new fan, and with the better air circulation.
The one plant :
And the other plant (with the nut burn prob) :
yep, they look fine to me, just keep an eye on the temps and the watering, i think everything is now starting to look ok, over watering and high temps are a big problem with new growers, trust me i know as i had the exact same problem when i started growing,
but everything looks ok now so i think your plants will do fine, 18-6 will help with the root development so the plants should start to grow a lot quicker once they settle in to the new light schedule, also the plant you topped will take a few days to recover so you wont notice much difference for a couple of days, after that it should grow again and the 2 new main cola will start to grow,
but everything looks ok now so i think your plants will do fine, 18-6 will help with the root development so the plants should start to grow a lot quicker once they settle in to the new light schedule, also the plant you topped will take a few days to recover so you wont notice much difference for a couple of days, after that it should grow again and the 2 new main cola will start to grow,
Seeing as we talking about veg lighting I thought I would toss in my two cents.
I have tried 24/0, 20/4, 18/6, 16/8 and GLR
Under 24/0 I have multiple times had plants flower on me. I have no idea how or why that is possible. But I would guesstimate it has to do with the plant never seeing dark so eventually it thinks its always in sunset or something. Kinda like how a little light on outdoor plants will not mess with flowering because the sun is such high intensity light. But a little light on indoor plants even from a flashlight will fuck them up and make them reveg or hermie ect.
20/4 I didnt notice much difference in growth between 24/0, but i never had the flowering problem.
18/6 seemed ok
16/8 seemed around as good as 18/6 but of course you spend less money on lighting per day because its 2 less hours
GLR works good, one thing that can be good or can be a problem is the plants seem to start flower much faster when vegged in GLR.
Personally I use both 16/8 and GLR nowdays. If I didnt have a timer for some reason though I would be just fine going 24/0 as I personally never had the slow root problem in 24/0 I just had the flowering prob.
I have tried 24/0, 20/4, 18/6, 16/8 and GLR
Under 24/0 I have multiple times had plants flower on me. I have no idea how or why that is possible. But I would guesstimate it has to do with the plant never seeing dark so eventually it thinks its always in sunset or something. Kinda like how a little light on outdoor plants will not mess with flowering because the sun is such high intensity light. But a little light on indoor plants even from a flashlight will fuck them up and make them reveg or hermie ect.
20/4 I didnt notice much difference in growth between 24/0, but i never had the flowering problem.
18/6 seemed ok
16/8 seemed around as good as 18/6 but of course you spend less money on lighting per day because its 2 less hours
GLR works good, one thing that can be good or can be a problem is the plants seem to start flower much faster when vegged in GLR.
Personally I use both 16/8 and GLR nowdays. If I didnt have a timer for some reason though I would be just fine going 24/0 as I personally never had the slow root problem in 24/0 I just had the flowering prob.