- Thread starter
- #521
Thank you. Just when I think I've understood the micro herd and the mycos I realize I do not.
Another Tabletop Crop: Carmen's Spring Grow With Vipar Spectra XS 1500 Pro
- Thread starter Carmen Ray
- Start date
If it was the wind I haven’t either.
Could have put the Diatomacrous Earth ดืนเบา ราคา650บาท ชนิด ออแกนิค 100% Food grade 1 kg.Form USA I just re bought cause the first lot is missing and even covered the pot to prevent airborne fungals, for the wind, coulda moved her, left her the other side of the house for longer or built the SIP better.
Dunno - its all down to decisions I made. So yeah I was in charge of the plant and the plant died. Very quickly and horribly!
Carmen here is just likely gonna miss a little return in terms of yield or Cannabinoids - as my Mother is fond of saying….
Gogo Carmen. First time out in new soil? I’ve faired far worse
- Thread starter
- #523
This is the Bloom nutrient I was using before the Nourish.
Otter is growing in SIPs if that makes a difference, and I don't know if he did that in pots.
Also, I think he did it after seeing a deficiency in an earlier plant though I can't recall now.
Also also, did the folks who sold you the soil sell you the additives, or were they the folks who designed it as well?
- Thread starter
- #525
I also wondered if it was SIP related and that maybe I was doing this because of my previous SWICK issues.
No, the people who sold me the soil are retailers and they didn't sell me the supplements. I bought those elsewhere.
- Thread starter
- #526
I up-potted both babies. The Blueberry is fast catching up with the Chocodope. The Chocodope particularly is droopy. Hopefully we'll have them both "praying" in their new pots before long.
I still don't know what this is. Some say it is a toxicity and others say it is a deficiency. I don't know, so I don't know what to do. The plant has been getting nothing but water for two weeks, and yet this is beginning to spread quickly. Gee advised a root drench followed by fish ferts but the last time I flushed and used fish ferts the situation worsened. I am very frustrated and upset about this. I don't know what is best to do.
The group.
Thanks for looking in and contributing to the discussion.
Trump
Well-Known Member
How close are you to harvest?
- Thread starter
- #528
I would say about a week or so on the RR2, and Idk about the RR1. Three, four weeks maybe?
Welcome to 420 Magazine.
Trump
Well-Known Member
Is RR1 or RR2 having the leaf issue?
- Thread starter
- #530
Sorry, the Red Russian auto 1 is the one pictured here and having the issue. It is 31 days in flower.
Worse case scenario is you lose a bunch of leaves and make it easier to trim! Looks like enough greenery on there to get you through harvest, and if LKA can do well with his yellowing leaves there's no reason you can't too.
And some got a fence firmly between their butt-ocks
Its a day later and you’re meant to feed as day 14? So feed according to the label.
It’ll given you a reference point at least. I get that certain strains like things a little different but whoever designed the stuff you’re using likely ain’t an idiot. They put time and effort into it. Give it another round. I’m coming down on the side of deficiency.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
You have plenty of nutrients in the medium and most nutrient deficiencies are pH related with plenty of nutrients and complete plant foods. You're in mid to late flower so my guess is your pH is getting on the lower side? Do you keep track and measure pH of your runoff water?
I up-potted both babies. The Blueberry is fast catching up with the Chocodope. The Chocodope particularly is droopy. Hopefully we'll have them both "praying" in their new pots before long.
I still don't know what this is. Some say it is a toxicity and others say it is a deficiency. I don't know, so I don't know what to do. The plant has been getting nothing but water for two weeks, and yet this is beginning to spread quickly. Gee advised a root drench followed by fish ferts but the last time I flushed and used fish ferts the situation worsened. I am very frustrated and upset about this. I don't know what is best to do.
The group.
Thanks for looking in and contributing to the discussion.
Public service announcement:
Anyone who wants to test their soil pH using the runoff should follow the scientifically proven "pour thru method" outlined here in a pdf from Cornell University.
Testing your runoff any other way is as accurate as calibrating your pH meter using tarot cards. Oh yeah, use a calibrated pH meter if you test.
For those who don't trust pdf files, here are the instructions:
Steps for the PourThru method
1. water containers to saturation (so that a few drops of water come out of the
bottom of the container) with the normal irrigation water they have been receiving
2. after container has drained for one hour, place a saucer under the container
3. pour enough distilled water on the surface of the container to get 50 mL (1.5
fluid ounces) of leachate to come out of the bottom of the container
4. collect leachate for pH testing
5. calibrate pH meter
6. measure pH of samples
Anyone who wants to test their soil pH using the runoff should follow the scientifically proven "pour thru method" outlined here in a pdf from Cornell University.
Testing your runoff any other way is as accurate as calibrating your pH meter using tarot cards. Oh yeah, use a calibrated pH meter if you test.
For those who don't trust pdf files, here are the instructions:
Steps for the PourThru method
1. water containers to saturation (so that a few drops of water come out of the
bottom of the container) with the normal irrigation water they have been receiving
2. after container has drained for one hour, place a saucer under the container
3. pour enough distilled water on the surface of the container to get 50 mL (1.5
fluid ounces) of leachate to come out of the bottom of the container
4. collect leachate for pH testing
5. calibrate pH meter
6. measure pH of samples
Ta Shed. That, I hope, helps a bunch of people.
With my limited experience of soil growing (unsuccessfully
) I thought it sorta figured itself out on Ph in soil which anyone want to see the graph again?I have an actual post off the site from 2010! Be a handy companion to Shed's methodology.
PH and Nutrient Uptake charts!
www.420magazine.com
Soil will buffer water pH, but as I have learned buying soil, it doesn't hurt to test it (correctly) if you can't figure what the heck is going wrong. I've bought bags of commercial soil with a pH in the high 7 and others in the mid 5s, so there's that.Ta Shed. That, I hope, helps a bunch of people.
With my limited experience of soil growing (unsuccessfully
I have an actual post off the site from 2010! Be a handy companion to Shed's methodology.
PH and Nutrient Uptake charts!
www.420magazine.com
Also, those graphs are great, but many folks think it's for the water pH of hydro and the water pH for soil. It's actually for the pH of the soil itself.
- Thread starter
- #537
Thank you, that really does put my mind somewhat at ease. He did do a flush. The yellowing on Violet's leaves looked like Potassium deficiency to me?
I think I am going to stick to plain water going forward, or buy some of the other stuff. I'm not going to give the plant more Nourish. I may be using it for the wrong application. I need to speak to Saffer growmies who know the product from using it, I think.And some got a fence firmly between their butt-ocks
Its a day later and you’re meant to feed as day 14? So feed according to the label.
It’ll given you a reference point at least. I get that certain strains like things a little different but whoever designed the stuff you’re using likely ain’t an idiot. They put time and effort into it. Give it another round. I’m coming down on the side of deficiency.
I do not. I have been taught that living organic soil buffers ph. I know that the microherd can be disrupted, causing ph problems and nutrient lockouts, but I don't understand the mechanism. Are you able to explain it to me please?
Of what benefit is it to measure ph in runoff please? How do I change the ph in LOS?
Morning y'all, I have a fresh head having got some more sleep since the 2 a.m. up-pot.Ta Shed. That, I hope, helps a bunch of people.
With my limited experience of soil growing (unsuccessfully
I have an actual post off the site from 2010! Be a handy companion to Shed's methodology.
PH and Nutrient Uptake charts!
www.420magazine.com
Presumably the only thing that will change the ph is the proposed root soak, or a flush?
- Thread starter
- #538
Just saw this now. I would rather let this grow ride to the end than start ph testing every bag I buy. I have to trust that the manufacturers are living up to their promises, otherwise they'd lose market share. Word would get out very quickly and people would stop buying their product. The ph was fine for weeks, and suddenly there's a ph issue? The same bag of soil is used in the RR2 plant and that plant is fine.
What are we saying though? Is this a nutrient lockout or a nutrient burn? lmao @ draadsitters
Wastei
Well-Known Member
You're growing in containers indoors. Whenever you experience problems the first thing to grasp and check is pH of the medium no matter the growing method.
A plants output change throughout the growth cycle and the microbial life/mycelium network won't compensate for this, it only help with better nutrient uptake but wont compensate for all the organic acids. It may not even be that well developed growing organically in containers where you optimally should replenish both the microbial life and food source for them every week.
It's more important to grasp and optimize how to feed the microbes and make the medium more active than it is to feed at set frequencies growing organics. Some of the amendments in Geoflora takes months to break down and become available for the plant to uptake and some may never be fully broken down at the end of the cycle.
It's hard to make an easy to use granulated organic formula without spending alot of time and effort on fermentation and inoculation of the feed. Some use hydroxides to make organic nutrient more readily avaiable in liquid solutions while other "mitigates" the problem poorly by adding mycorrhizae granulates.
Some products are better suited for outdoor growing and some more readily available better for indoor when it comes to organic certified nutrients.
Done correctly it will tell you the pH of the soil. If it comes back too low or too high it could tell someone whether that's causing an issue with a plant.
The way you modify soil pH (LOS or not) involves acidifying it if it's high or alkalining it if it's too low.
Soaking or flushing with the correct solution will affect the pH but might take more than once depending on how far out of wack it is.
But we're really far out over our skis here!