AfricanGrower's 1st Hydro Journal - Ebb&Flow - Bubblelicious 2013

Hey AG, overall, looking wonderful. Not long now, buddy, however I think you're going to go past xmas. Damn she is a bushy one. I'm sort of in a hurry today but I wanted to leave some comments. Forgive me if I've missed anything above that you already talked about.

>>>I will be emptying my res today and keeping to the original feeding schedule and will be giving a flush (with the high Ca tapwater...counter-intuitive, I know)

This will kill all of your beneficial bacteria / mycos. Did someone say you should rinse with tap water? Or did you read this somewhere?

I don't doubt that you have a big of mag deficiency, but here's what we need to remember. When leaves change colors due to this, you rarely see those leaves get their color back, especially not in a few days. When leaves lose color, it is from a condition that existed 10 days ago.

The curled up leaves could be from it being too dry, wind on the plants from the fan, PPM too high, and or too hot in the tent. The leaves curl up because they are trying to conserve moisture. If any of these conditions exist, fix those first. Remember salt based nutrients will dehydrate leaves.

Then, as far as the mag def... stick to the recipe, but up the calmag as you said. Most importantly, you should be changing your res water weekly. Sometimes you can go longer, depending on the strain, but your strain is telling you, you can't! I know your plant is thirsty, and it's temping just to keep topping off. When your water is low, go ahead and dump whatever water is left (leaving behind a few gallons in the bottom of the res is ok), and then replenish with a nice new mix of nutrient water. If I didn't change water weekly with the ACE, I got the same exact problems.

I wouldn't spray with the opsom salts, as it tends to leave behind film on leaves, but you can add a teaspoon per 5 gal to your res.
 
I think AG uses tap water for everything, both res and tea? I know he would first let a bucket of water air out for minimum of 24 hours b/c even I know that and I never used tap. We all gotta get RO machines!
 
I think AG uses tap water for everything, both res and tea? I know he would first let a bucket of water air out for minimum of 24 hours b/c even I know that and I never used tap. We all gotta get RO machines!

OK Yeah I forgot about that. Whew. Sorry! RO isn't necessary. Look what sling is doing with no RO. I will say it helps with PH swings though.
 
TheCapn;1928243I will say it helps with PH swings though.[/QUOTE said:
Less variables to influence a pull.
 
Hey AG, overall, looking wonderful. Not long now, buddy, however I think you're going to go past xmas. Damn she is a bushy one. I'm sort of in a hurry today but I wanted to leave some comments. Forgive me if I've missed anything above that you already talked about.

>>>I will be emptying my res today and keeping to the original feeding schedule and will be giving a flush (with the high Ca tapwater...counter-intuitive, I know)

This will kill all of your beneficial bacteria / mycos. Did someone say you should rinse with tap water? Or did you read this somewhere?

I don't doubt that you have a big of mag deficiency, but here's what we need to remember. When leaves change colors due to this, you rarely see those leaves get their color back, especially not in a few days. When leaves lose color, it is from a condition that existed 10 days ago.

The curled up leaves could be from it being too dry, wind on the plants from the fan, PPM too high, and or too hot in the tent. The leaves curl up because they are trying to conserve moisture. If any of these conditions exist, fix those first. Remember salt based nutrients will dehydrate leaves.

Then, as far as the mag def... stick to the recipe, but up the calmag as you said. Most importantly, you should be changing your res water weekly. Sometimes you can go longer, depending on the strain, but your strain is telling you, you can't! I know your plant is thirsty, and it's temping just to keep topping off. When your water is low, go ahead and dump whatever water is left (leaving behind a few gallons in the bottom of the res is ok), and then replenish with a nice new mix of nutrient water. If I didn't change water weekly with the ACE, I got the same exact problems.

I wouldn't spray with the opsom salts, as it tends to leave behind film on leaves, but you can add a teaspoon per 5 gal to your res.

Hey Cap, don't worry about, any help of your is useful to me. I will try and respond and further clarify some of your comments.

>>>This will kill all of your beneficial bacteria / mycos. Did someone say you should rinse with tap water? Or did you read this somewhere?

This was an idea that was not given to me or read up upon on a site. Like Sky said, I use tap water for everything. However, when I mix my weekly tea I always have a couple of gallons of distilled water (unlimited source remember ;)) handy to mix in. Also to note, I have a scheduled weekly tea this Monday.

I rinsed with tapwater because I don't have the large amounts of RO/Distilled water at one time to achieve that. I simply keep filling my flush container with fresh tapwater every 5 minutes until I can get a steady reading of PPM that matches my tap water. It's the best I can do for a flush, and I know that most of those salts are Calcium and Magnesium from county reports.

>>> When leaves lose color, it is from a condition that existed 10 days ago.

I'm well aware of this fact too. I don't tend to mention every single observation while it happens or in each update for that matter. I can honestly say the discoloration of the leaves began in mid November, and I've been keeping it under decent control until this past week where I mistook the Mg def for a K deficiency. That was stupid of me, and was the cause of this whole 'battle'. That is when I started noticing the deficiency spreading further on the already affected leaves. I in fact have been feeding with a PPM of 850 the past week and have maintained near perfect environmental conditions for the past 2 weeks.

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>>>Remember salt based nutrients will dehydrate leaves.

The only reason why I can rule this out is because lower levels of foliage show near 100% healthy signs of growth, no curling, no burnt tips, no signs of ANY deficiencies, etc. Plus my fans are all blowing in the space below the HPS cool tube, after heeding your advice previously on direct wind on plants.

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>>>I wouldn't spray with the opsom salts, as it tends to leave behind film on leaves, but you can add a teaspoon per 5 gal to your res.

Yea I was still contemplating on whether or not to try it out. I'm not a fan of spraying anything on plants, never done it before, and I guess I shouldn't start now haha!

As for my res, I change it weekly, but the past week I completely changed it about 4 times within 7 days to try and get the right levels of Mg in my medium. With each change I wash out the container with soap and hot water and rinse.

>>>however I think you're going to go past xmas.

Yea I definitely anticipated this. I have a scheduled harvest date for the 7th of Jan. giving myself an extra week past that if necessary. I'm hearing up to 11 weeks with strain. Patience is key here.
 
u dont want to be dropping rh to 5-10%. 40% is good in flower right till the end. ur low rh is prob adding to the problem ur experiencing.

That's true. I am currently maintaining an RH of 40-50% with the help of my humidifier. The lowest my tent can go in RH without the humidifier is 19%. I completely agree that having a low RH at this stage of flower will lead to problems (ie. my leaves curling) but when I mentioned dropping my RH to below 10%, I meant for a period of 24-48 hours spaced out between my last two weeks of harvest. I am testing out a claim that I have read on many a forum and have seen on videos by Arjan from GHS.

Low humidity levels could stunt growth do to evaporation and you might not even notice but with the right strain you will get shiny rockhard buds. High humidity and bring all kinds of problems.
50 to 60% seems to be the best for flowering. During veg 70% is acceptable but anything higher will slow growth because their is to much pressure against the plant's wall linings.
 
>>>Low humidity levels could stunt growth do to evaporation and you might not even notice but with the right strain you will get shiny rockhard buds.

Who wrote this? I cannot understand this. But I'm curious to know what they were TRYING to say.

>>>High humidity and bring all kinds of problems.

huh? Stoner translator, please?
 
Thank you for your input Light. I'll be sure to stop by that thread you created for more knowledge on the subject.


>>> Who wrote this? I cannot understand this. But I'm curious to know what they were TRYING to say.

As for who wrote this, it's from a thread on the forums called 24 hrs dark before harvest... A lot of talk back and forth between growers and possibly stoners haha (The author of that post is name is Herban Legend). Perhaps we are mistaking jumbled clauses for high gibberish :laughtwo:
 
Does anyone read what they typed (to check if it's readable) before they hit send? I know I mistype words often but, sheesh! Looking fwd to your post on UV ozone.
 
Skybound said:
That'd be awesome to have a solution that can be added to any res and draw everything to 5.8, like an octane additive for reservoirs.

Edit - If such a recipe were to be concocted, then it only stands to reason that other formulations could be concocted like 5
.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.9, 6.0 and growers could then do some real experimentation with this plant.

SRY for the late input but only now i catch-up with this journal, if you want easy times on PH control give a try to AN PHperfect , I use PH perfect for a year and halfe and never have used a pH pen , I now, I grow in soil and soil buffers, that's right but the first time I have see the PH perfect working was in my friend hydro reservoir and it simply makes magic in front my eyes , he got a fresh water reservoir with a 3.6 PH and a 60 liters reservoir with 7.0 PH , he start adding the boosters one buy one no great changes but after he finalize with the booster and start adding AN part a+b in 30 secs more a less the PH on both reservoirs start changing until stops at 5.8 in one and 5.7 in the other wow , i don't remember witch one was the .7 and the .8 but I was amused since than I only use AN PH perfect

First off all sry for the terrible english i usually try to correct the text but i am in my droid on the moment and my english it is weak,AF you have amazing girls keep the good work, and Captn thks for all the great info

:peace:
 
doesnt matter if its ph 5.5,5.6,5.7 or what ever if the nutrient is chelated in such a way that it can be absorbed right throughout 5-7. Even on a regular hydro grow u want regular swings from around 5.2-6.2. Keeping ph on exactly 5.5 for example means it can still suffer lockouts of certain elements. i always recommend allowing the res to fluctuate and only adjust ph if it goes way outside these parameters.
 
doesnt matter if its ph 5.5,5.6,5.7 or what ever if the nutrient is chelated in such a way that it can be absorbed right throughout 5-7. Even on a regular hydro grow u want regular swings from around 5.2-6.2. Keeping ph on exactly 5.5 for example means it can still suffer lockouts of certain elements. i always recommend allowing the res to fluctuate and only adjust ph if it goes way outside these parameters.

+1
 
21/12/13

FLOWER DAY 52

Hello all, and season's greetings. We have now come to the window of time where the breeder suggests harvest. From what it looks like, considering size, growth spurts, and trichome maturity, I am giving myself another 3 weeks to reach that optimal harvest time.

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As for the the Mg def, the battle seems to be in the distant past with no signs of further severity. In fact all the colas had experienced a 'growth spurt', stretching the tips of each top another 1-3 inches all around. This will need more time to fill out and bulk up, so a harvest time around mid-Jan. seems to be the most likely outcome.

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I also bent the two tallest colas's on the Bubb over to give more light to the nearing bagseed tops. This also opened up a lot of foliage for light to reach lower branches that were previously covered.

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I am giving the bagseed another 2 weeks at the max. Going by the sample I quick dried, potency is almost there. So I have been giving the bagseed 1-2 days between watering, to let the pot really dry out. I will be starting the flush on this one next week.

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WEEKLY TRICHOMES

Bubb

[video=youtube_share;pn0F3QIJF9c]
[/video]

Bagseed

[video=youtube_share;uDMgx9Ry3RI]
[/video]

Sorry for the short and vague update. If anyone needs any more detail, please let me know. I planned on having more time, but as the holiday's approach, my work becomes the most intense, unlike the typical job. I will try and get to everyone's journals as I have been only lurking around.
 
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