6 Ladies Cloned Trifecta, 2019, Indoor 4x8 LED

SCROG Day 2

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They’ll be fed probably tomorrow.

@Emilya Are you aware of any negative aspects from letting compost tea brew for longer than 12 hours or more?

It’s brewing with a 4” air stone.
 
SCROG Day 2

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They’ll be fed probably tomorrow.

@Emilya Are you aware of any negative aspects from letting compost tea brew for longer than 12 hours or more?

It’s brewing with a 4” air stone.
no, and as a matter of fact, 12 hours is not enough time to multiply out a large enough population of microlife to be worth it. There is a magic point at 24 hours where you hit a peak of population, and then if you feed the mix with another tblspoon of molasses, you can go another 24 hours, but the 36 hour point is the sweet spot, where the population peaks and you generally hit a point of diminishing return in a 1 gallon mix.
 
no, and as a matter of fact, 12 hours is not enough time to multiply out a large enough population of microlife to be worth it. There is a magic point at 24 hours where you hit a peak of population, and then if you feed the mix with another tblspoon of molasses, you can go another 24 hours, but the 36 hour point is the sweet spot, where the population peaks and you generally hit a point of diminishing return in a 1 gallon mix.
That’s exactly what I wanted to hear. I want another day of drying after feeling them. It’s at 24 hours now, I’ll feed at noon tomorrow.
 
That’s exactly what I wanted to hear. I want another day of drying after feeling them. It’s at 24 hours now, I’ll feed at noon tomorrow.
I put 3tbl for 5 gal in to begin with. Since I add in URB it is supposed to cut the time down to 8. It ran for 18 last time and seemed to be fine.

I grew up with this stuff.
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sounds like a great plan, and unless I have local, I use the same molasses. Brer Rabbit works too.
What’s the deal with unsulphured.
 
What’s the deal with unsulphured.
Both types contain sulphur, but the major difference is that sulphured molasses contains sulphur dioxide, which acts as a preservative and antimicrobial substance. This means that sulphured molasses will actually kill the microbes you are trying to feed. There are three grades of molasses, from lighter to darker: mild (a.k.a Barbados), dark, and blackstrap. Blackstrap molasses is preferred for its higher mineral and vitamin content. Blackstrap is high in calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, and micronutrients.
 
Both types contain sulphur, but the major difference is that sulphured molasses contains sulphur dioxide, which acts as a preservative and antimicrobial substance. This means that sulphured molasses will actually kill the microbes you are trying to feed. There are three grades of molasses, from lighter to darker: mild (a.k.a Barbados), dark, and blackstrap. Blackstrap molasses is preferred for its higher mineral and vitamin content. Blackstrap is high in calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, and micronutrients.
So I made about 7 gallons total of the tea and still had no runoff. I’m thinking I need to brew at least 10-15 gallons next go around, but I’m not sure what I need to do at this point. The outside edges still feel like dry moss. I have a drip system that can run pure local Spring water for however long I program it for. It’s Natural alkaline is around 7-7.2, and I don’t have anything to bring it it down.

What’s my best option in your opinion. I feel like the outside edges of the soil are too dry not to act.

Brew 5 more gallons, feed compost tea again in 42 hours, or use the drip with natural spring water (no PH adjust) and let it run 5 gallons over the next 3-5 days on a 5 minute cycle every other day or so?

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I “feed” every week.
The compost tea feed Is every two weeks
The alternate weekly feed is URB, kelp, and local Spring water. If I can leverage the drippers, they’ll probably be able to get me through until the weekend when I run the secondary feed cycle. I don’t see any alarming deficiencies, so I’m leaning toward dripping 73degree spring water until saturation is good, or the weekend.

Thoughts?
 
So I made about 7 gallons total of the tea and still had no runoff. I’m thinking I need to brew at least 10-15 gallons next go around, but I’m not sure what I need to do at this point. The outside edges still feel like dry moss. I have a drip system that can run pure local Spring water for however long I program it for. It’s Natural alkaline is around 7-7.2, and I don’t have anything to bring it it down.

What’s my best option in your opinion. I feel like the outside edges of the soil are too dry not to act.

Brew 5 more gallons, feed compost tea again in 42 hours, or use the drip with natural spring water (no PH adjust) and let it run 5 gallons over the next 3-5 days on a 5 minute cycle every other day or so?

63DE891A-7D0E-45E5-A82C-C3DF3203E7EB.jpeg


I “feed” every week.
The compost tea feed Is every two weeks
The alternate weekly feed is URB, kelp, and local Spring water. If I can leverage the drippers, they’ll probably be able to get me through until the weekend when I run the secondary feed cycle. I don’t see any alarming deficiencies, so I’m leaning toward dripping 73degree spring water until saturation is good, or the weekend.

Thoughts?
Things look good... i would be comfortable with just the spring water for now.
 
Lol! I got impatient and opened a 5 gallon and tested at 6.8. The guy I got the soil and compost tea recipe ph’s at 6.9.
Figured it must be fate. Lol!
I have the drips going off at 2am, 30 minutes before “sunrise” for 3 minutes every 12 hours. I haven’t done a precise drip test, but will, but I think I’ll be about .5 quart every 12 hours. Nothing for 7gallon felt apparently. I’ll hone it in and share the numbers.

I got pretty rough with them again in attempt to fill the SCROG. I was a bit skeptical after I dropped it, but I have no doubt I can fill it within two weeks.

Do you just tuck anything down, and let it do what I’d does? Seems to be working.

I need to do another trim I think. What’s your opinion on doing another fan leaf thinning before flipping. I’m thinking that will be 5-7 days depending on the fill.
 
Lol! I got impatient and opened a 5 gallon and tested at 6.8. The guy I got the soil and compost tea recipe ph’s at 6.9.
Figured it must be fate. Lol!
I have the drips going off at 2am, 30 minutes before “sunrise” for 3 minutes every 12 hours. I haven’t done a precise drip test, but will, but I think I’ll be about .5 quart every 12 hours. Nothing for 7gallon felt apparently. I’ll hone it in and share the numbers.

I got pretty rough with them again in attempt to fill the SCROG. I was a bit skeptical after I dropped it, but I have no doubt I can fill it within two weeks.

Do you just tuck anything down, and let it do what I’d does? Seems to be working.

I need to do another trim I think. What’s your opinion on doing another fan leaf thinning before flipping. I’m thinking that will be 5-7 days depending on the fill.
Forgot the pics.
Before tucking and lifting the rear
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After seaweed/neem spray... yes they’re back.
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I just keep tucking until I can't do it any more. I use 2" holes in my scrogs though, so I can maintain a bit more control, but I do love the rigidness of your screen... that has got to be quite nice to work with, way better than my chicken wire. Right before flower I pretty much strip everything under the just under the screen canopy... no light is going to get down there anyway.
 
I just keep tucking until I can't do it any more. I use 2" holes in my scrogs though, so I can maintain a bit more control, but I do love the rigidness of your screen... that has got to be quite nice to work with, way better than my chicken wire. Right before flower I pretty much strip everything under the just under the screen canopy... no light is going to get down there anyway.
Thanks, the 1/2” copper was a lot more rigid than the pvc I had, plus it looked neat.
3.5” is the smallest netting I could find in the nylon. I almost went with a chicken wire type setup, but I heard it was a pain during harvest.
Do you keep any fan leafs up top?
I’ve read that if the node coming off the fan has its own fans growing, to get rid of it. I’ve been cutting all fans that have new sets where the new leafs are about a half dollar in size, but leaving the top 2 or 3 fans.
Does that sound right, or should I lop them all off?
I also heard that if it’s stem is red, it’s ready to come off. That guy was a major defoller though.
 
Thanks, the 1/2” copper was a lot more rigid than the pvc I had, plus it looked neat.
3.5” is the smallest netting I could find in the nylon. I almost went with a chicken wire type setup, but I heard it was a pain during harvest.
Do you keep any fan leafs up top?
I’ve read that if the node coming off the fan has its own fans growing, to get rid of it. I’ve been cutting all fans that have new sets where the new leafs are about a half dollar in size, but leaving the top 2 or 3 fans.
Does that sound right, or should I lop them all off?
I also heard that if it’s stem is red, it’s ready to come off. That guy was a major defoller though.
red stems denote stress.... bending the plant over like this causes stress... I would not be surprised to see most of the stems red. This was probably very bad advice to remove all of them. I bet the ones that remain are now showing that same symptom... a girl has to talk.
I don't chop all of the fans or tuck them all under... some of them need to get the light. Remember that once all this tucking stops, the buds are going to go vertical. The fans under that big bud are not going to hurt a thing.
Just use your best judgement. If it looks like it is in the way of something else, get rid of it. There are no rules and those trying to sound important by stating acceptable sizes and such to remove and giving you all these rules about how to manage a SCROG, should be judged by your own common sense. Just fill the screen and trim anything that gets in the way of the bud sites. Tuck what you can, let the rest go vertical. The size of the holes determines how aggressive you can be.
 
red stems denote stress.... bending the plant over like this causes stress... I would not be surprised to see most of the stems red. This was probably very bad advice to remove all of them. I bet the ones that remain are now showing that same symptom... a girl has to talk.
I don't chop all of the fans or tuck them all under... some of them need to get the light. Remember that once all this tucking stops, the buds are going to go vertical. The fans under that big bud are not going to hurt a thing.
Just use your best judgement. If it looks like it is in the way of something else, get rid of it. There are no rules and those trying to sound important by stating acceptable sizes and such to remove and giving you all these rules about how to manage a SCROG, should be judged by your own common sense. Just fill the screen and trim anything that gets in the way of the bud sites. Tuck what you can, let the rest go vertical. The size of the holes determines how aggressive you can be.
Oh... no I didn’t go with that advice. They wouldn’t have any fans at all. Lol.
 
All filled up for the most part. I’ve been trimming under canopy over the past week. I think I’m there. I have some tea brewing, going to do one final tuck, a good compost feed, rest 24 hours, then finally flip to 12/12. I have a feeling these things are going to be monsters.

Last night before spray. You can see how tall the rear was getting.
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Tonight after decent rear defol/tuck and spray.
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Tonight. Nice and flat.
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Maybe need to make another pass after the final tuck. Will those smaller wirey looking ones be worth keeping, or should I just snip them?
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