re: 480W & 720W Grow LED Hydro - Land Of Clovers
I use tap water thats been bubbled in a gallon jug with a single 1.5? pump line that I rotate 3-4 times a day for 2-3days before using it. I only bubbled the fert mix once for about 2 days and it didn't seem to have raised the ph at all (so I guess I either require a heating pad and/or more powerful bubbling action). So I've been feeding every other watering (the small .8 gallon plants every other day, and the larger 2 gallon plants every 3 days). I end up using maybe as much as a capful of the Earth Juice pH up potassium-bicarbonate? To get the color of the water in the pH test kit to get about the 6.5 -7 pH color (I've never yet used any pH down). I've been using the Earth Juice line, giving them the micro blast at a tsp per gallon maybe 3 times their whole life. The EJ Veg at 2tsp per gallon up until maybe the end of the second week, and then I think I gave them a tsp of Veg twice since then. I think I've been giving them the EJ Flower at 2tsp and sometimes 3tsp per gallon, and the most recent maybe it was even 4-5 tsp of the EJ flower. I've never watered enough to get more than a tbsp or 2 of run off since the first couple times I water (to get it dialed in). I actually use less than a gallon of water to feed all the plants once. The .8gallon plants get 16oz and the 2gallon plants get 32oz which ends up being a total of 96oz*(a gallon being 128)
Oh and I've been giving the Earth Juice Catalyst at 3-4tsp per gallon
There is one weed growing next to the porch at the front of my house that is possibly quite happy with the leftover nute water its been getting. That is assuming its survived the recent random snow/dry/rain/snow/dry weather
i dont know the feeding chart of earth juice, but i think you are suppose to only feed every 7 days-14 days. you have to give plain watering and not just choke nutes down them. those PH testers you have are tricky to tell but i thought EJ says on their site or somewhere not to PH. with good organics and good soil you dont need to PH! ive never PH'ed my organic Jacks once and the water going in is 8.0+ PH and ive never let run off come out, but i water feed water, or water,water,feed,water,water. the biggest problem people have is over feeding the plants, plus like i said tons of times to everyone do use PH up or down with organics it will case harm to micro life and mess things up. not saying this is the problem? but could cause trouble. whats the PH run off from the little you get? take some pics with the led light off so we can see what she looks like. N def starts at the bottom. are you mixing the veg EJ with the Bloom? you know they need to be mixed until late flowering, i dont think the bloom has any N? here is a copy paste do a google search and see if ur plants look like a N def.
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants; this one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is.
Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant.
Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing.
Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it's a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.
Parts affected by a nitrogen deficiency are: Older foliage, going to whole plant, Petioles (rare) cases.
Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have "the claw" look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing... mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.
Problems with Nitrogen being locked out by PH troubles.
Waterlogged soil and Soil with low organic matter.
Nitrogen is a very important element in the plant, all of them are but some are more important than others. For soil the best ph to have is 6.8. Why? Because at 6.8, that's the best number for ALL available nutrients to be absorbed into the plant without any of them being locked out. For hydro and soil less mediums best ph to have is around 5.8.
Try not to keep your plants to cold, because the cold temps will cause the nitrogen harder for the plant to be absorbed.
PH levels for Nitrogen:
Soil levels
Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0- 5.5.
Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-8.0. ( wouldn't recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a ph of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0.
Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a ph of 5.5 to 8.0
(Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Solution to fixing a Nitrogen deficiency
Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
A goof solid N-P-K ratio will fix any nitrogen deficiency. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Nitrogen in them will fix a nitrogen deficiency., Peters all purpose plant food 20-20-20 is good, Miracle grow All purpose plant food, Miracle grow Tomato plant food, (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) as well and blood meal! If you need to give your plants a quick solution to nitrogen and you want to use blood meal, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Other sources of nitrogen are dried blood, Cotton seed meal which is slow acting, Insect eating bat guano which is fast acting. Bone meal which is a gradual absorption when not made into a tea.( also excellent source of phosphorus). Fish Meal Or Fish Emulsion is a good source of nitrogen and is medium acting. Worm castings, which is gradual absorption. Seabird guano, All purpose Millennia Seabird guano, Orginal Seabird guano All Purpose, Crabshell ,which is slow absorption. Fox Farm Grow Big, which is fast acting. ( can bring down your ph as well)
Here are a list of things that help fix a Nitrogen Deficiency:
Chemical Nutrients
Advanced nutrients Grow (2-1-6)
Vita Grow (4-0-0),
BC Grow(1.2-3.2-6.5)
GH Flora Grow (2-1-6)
GH Maxi grow (10-5-14)
GH floraNova grow (7-4-10),
Dyna gro Grow (7-9-5)
Organic Nutrients
Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Grow (3-1-3)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Grow (1.5-.75-1.5)
Earthjuice Grow (2-1-1),
Pure Blend Pro (3-1.5-4)
Bone Meal(0-10-0)
Blood Meal(12-0-0)
Fish Emulsion (5-1-1)
Seabird Guano (11-13-3)
Crab Shells(2.5-3.0-.5)
Pure Blend Grow (0.4-.01-.5)
Marine Cuisine (10-7-7)
MaxiCrop Seaweed (1-0-3)
Super Tea (5-5-1)
Mexican Bat Guano (10-2-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Kelp Meal (1-0-2)
Seaweed Plus Iron
Neptune's Harvest (2-4-0.5)
Alaska Start-Up(2-1-2)
Bio-Grow (1.8-0.1-6.6)
Age old Grow (12-6-6)
AGE Old Kelp (.30-.25-.15)
Neptune's Harvest (2-4-1)
Maxicrop Seweed(.1-0-1)
METANATURALS Organic grow (3-3-3)
METANATURALS Organic nitrogen (16-0-0)
So adding anyone of these above should fix up your nitrogen deficiency! Nitrogen deficient plants usually recover in about a week, affected leaves will not recover.
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss, Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
Here are 3 pics of what a nitrogen def looks like.... the first one is a nitrogen deficiency in vegging. the 2nd picture is nitrogen def in flowering; THis is completely normal for mid to late flowering; as you would want your plant to naturally yellow at the end. DO NOT add nitrogen supplement to fix the problem; just let the plant yellow as cannabis does towards the end of flowering. The last picture is one that is caused by TO MUCH Nitrogen.
It does seem as if all the non bud leaves are just starting to fade to light green or are just not as dark as I imagine they should be. Today they are all due to be watered but I'd thought I'd wait and see if anyone changed their minds based on these pics and recommend something besides flushing. But hey maybe they are lighter green or getting bleached from the 395w 2011 Spectra being only 10 inches above the very top tip? if they are getting bleached its very slowly or not getting any worse because I never noticed they were any different until I took them out in the normal light just now to really look at em.
Hey Irish do you have any links to info about not adding pH up to organic nute water? I just feel like I would be killing my soil/plants without adding pH up because when I pH test my nute water it comes out at red/4 or lower. I'm willing to try never pH upping on my next grow without some kind of proof of what you say about not pH adjusting, I mean do you really add low pH water nutes or do you bubble it up to 6.5?* I think I may have the bubbling wrong, what should I do for a gallon jug?
thought I would thank you and everyone for the info. going to be starting my first grow soon. 
I am a tech hound and want to use all the latest tech I can find. thanks to you I am sure I will be using LED's and from Mike would love to try those plasma lights but $7k per light that is nuts going to try a perpetual grow with 4 small rooms one clone mother room and 3 flower. working out the exact size for my space but they will be at least 2'x4'x4' and since they are going to be so short I want to try hydro as I can see you are not using it would you recommend a member to learn from here. also do you or anyone recommend LST or maybe scrog for this low of a space. sorry for the novel got caried away with my first post. thanks again for the info from the threads