Scientific
New Member
OTM is in da house! He brings 40 year old seeds back to life, so y'all better listen up! 
Nice to see ya, man.
Nice to see ya, man.
420's Soil Purple Kush Journal
- Thread starter Herbshuttles
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- flora once one seedlings vegetative
el cheapo
Well-Known Member
Looks like dollar store soil is better than the expensive stuff 
Q. Anyone know why my auto hasn't started to flower yet? Today is day 60 of veg. Could snapping the main stem 95% through 3-4 weeks ago cause a delay?
Q. Anyone know why my auto hasn't started to flower yet? Today is day 60 of veg. Could snapping the main stem 95% through 3-4 weeks ago cause a delay?
Scientific
New Member
If you mean it doesn't overload the plant with a lot of excess nutrients, then yeah.Looks like dollar store soil is better than the expensive stuff
My last bag of cheapy soil--$1.99 for a couple of cubic feet on sale at the hardware store--was full of barely composted wood and even had broken glass mixed in. 
Premium Ace Hardware potting soil, enriched with lumber and broken glass
I think the best answer to that question is that it doesn't seem to be an auto.
I planted an auto outside on the last day of winter last year, a strain that starts to flower like clockwork at 21 days, and the short days, the cold, and the overcast here on the north Pacific coast severely stunted it and kept it from flowering for months, but that was the kind of extreme conditions it took to keep an auto from flowering on time.
To give the obvious advice, I'd suggest going to 12/12 and see what happens.
68 days from seed, planted on the last day of winter (It's a Dwarf Low Flyer auto, but normally they grow to a couple of feet tall or more.)
el cheapo
Well-Known Member
Wow at that glassy soil.
Yea I've been thinking "well maybe its not an auto" so I checked the packaging the company sent and yep it says auto. The plant is growing quite large so may try 12/12. Or I'll wait a bit since I'm trying to get mid growth to rise to main stem lvl.
Yea I've been thinking "well maybe its not an auto" so I checked the packaging the company sent and yep it says auto. The plant is growing quite large so may try 12/12. Or I'll wait a bit since I'm trying to get mid growth to rise to main stem lvl.
Old TimingMan
New Member
OTM is in da house! He brings 40 year old seeds back to life, so y'all better listen up!
Thanks for the complement Science, I don't know if my advice is that worthy but it seems to work well for my situations
El Cheapo, your plant does sound like a Photo, the seed bank could have messed up...switching your cycle to 12/12 will confirm it.
el cheapo
Well-Known Member
My bad guys yesterday was day 47 but still I think it should have started flowering by now. I messaged the company about it so will see what they say. 12/12 isn't really an option ATM as I have other plants growing in the grow space. And there's no where I could move the plant to...
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- #167
Herbshuttles
Well-Known Member
Just want to start off by thanking you all for the help. I am trying to keep my relative humidity to 40% and the temp the same as you described but for some reason it's been tough. Temp gauge usually says 80 degrees during day and 75 at night and RH is usually anywhere from 25-40%. Im worried for when I flip my second light back on. It's for sure to heat up. Here's some updated photos, I'm definitely noticing some issues. Let me know what you guys think
Old TimingMan
New Member
A bowl or two of water with a towel hanging out of it will help keep your RH higher, did you add any perlite to the FF mix?...Some of the soil mixes are pretty heavy on the wood to keep it from compacting but the wood will hold a lot of moisture causing other problems like root rot.
Scientific
New Member
Don't worry about the older leaves. Any damage done to them isn't going to get better. It's the new growth that counts.
The plants are looking better but the leaves are still clawing. And I hate to keep singing a one note tune, but they still look light-deprived to me (spindly--too much space between the nodes). Maybe that will improve after more time with the light closer.
20% humidity is really low. At least there's no danger of mold!
If heat is a problem, increase airflow through the tent! If you have a fan blowing on a big dish of water (like a 13 x 9 baking dish) that will both evaporatively cool the tent and increase humidity. (Did we already talk about that before? I forget.)
The plants are looking better but the leaves are still clawing. And I hate to keep singing a one note tune, but they still look light-deprived to me (spindly--too much space between the nodes). Maybe that will improve after more time with the light closer.
20% humidity is really low. At least there's no danger of mold!
If heat is a problem, increase airflow through the tent! If you have a fan blowing on a big dish of water (like a 13 x 9 baking dish) that will both evaporatively cool the tent and increase humidity. (Did we already talk about that before? I forget.)
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- #170
Herbshuttles
Well-Known Member
I didn't mix perlite in. I wish I had
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- #171
Herbshuttles
Well-Known Member
I noticed when the light was too close the leaves on the taller plant started getting more yellow and burnt. I don't know if it's related but check the picture that was taken without the flash (4th from bottom , 5th from top). Yeah the humidity can get low but I agree, not much of a risk for mold so that's a plus. And I think we might have talked about evaporative coolers im not sure. I'll try that out because the fan I have blowing air in is pretty powerful, don't think I can do much there.
Scientific
New Member
Just to be clear, your fan isn't just blowing hot air around inside the tent but is actually blowing cool air into the tent or hot air out to lower the temperature, right?
Scientific
New Member
I see the lighter yellow of new growth but not any sign of "burning."
Old TimingMan
New Member
If you have another pot and soil left, you could try and transplant one. Doing this at the stage your plants are in would not be hard, its slightly messy but it would give you a peek into how your roots are developing and if you have issues with root rot. It would also let you know how your soil is or isn't draining.
If its something you want to try, I can give you the steps on how to do it and if you do have root rot, how to kill it before you put it into the new pot...just let me know.
If its something you want to try, I can give you the steps on how to do it and if you do have root rot, how to kill it before you put it into the new pot...just let me know.
Scientific
New Member
Perlite is magic.
It really helps the soil to drain better and I think it might help oxygen to the roots as well (not sure about that one). Every potting soil I've ever tried benefits from adding perlite.
el cheapo
Well-Known Member
Looks to me that the soil is compacted and and dry. Try squeezing the sides of the pot together in order to loosen up the soil. Then before lights out give a nice watering. I did this with one of my plants. Also if the top layer of soil is a hard crust, break it up. With my grow I thought my watering was fine. I was going by the 1-2 inch rule. I then realized that the lower 75% of the soil was dry. I now soak the soil every 2-3 days. And yes looks like your soil needs perlite. Crushing the soil may compensate for lack of perlite.
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- #177
Herbshuttles
Well-Known Member
I have a big fan blowing the air outside of the tent in, and ducting leading out the tent and out the room. I'm going to try the cool water pan idea and see how it works out. As far as transplanting the plant, i could definitely use the tips and advice but I'm not sure I trust myself to do that. Who knows though I'm not about to give up on them so if that's my only option so be it. And the one plants soil is definitely compact. I think that's a result of all the lime I used as it dissolved and then dried. I dug down a few inches and it just as compact below so I think I'll squeeze the sides. I'm going to take a quick picture as well to show how quickly that yellow leaf shriveled up. It was the fourth from the top fifth from the bottom (I switched the wording up by mistake in my previous post).
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- #178
Herbshuttles
Well-Known Member
Here's photos as promised. Btw, I broke up the compacted soil and only the top half inch or so was dry the rest was all moist. Not sopping wet but definitely was on the damp side.
Old TimingMan
New Member
If you are ready to try a transplant, this is what you will need to do.
Prep all of these things first before you start;
1. A 5 gal bucket 3/4 full with fresh 60-70 degree water
2. A 5 gal or larger flat tote or 5' x 5' piece of sturdy plastic
3. 2 5 quart ice cream buckets or equivalent plastic bowls, one filled with a mixture of 2 quarts 60-70 degree water and one cup of 3% H2O2 and one with fresh water.
4. Prepped fresh soil with a 25-30% perlite mixture
5. A scissors or trimmer with the blades cleaned with rubbing alcohol
6. A camera to document the process and take pictures if you run into anything that you have questions about.
Slide your hand under the canopy with the base of the stem between your index finger and middle finger to support the plant and pick up the pot. Working above your tub or plastic, turn the plant upside down, taking care not to bang or break the tops of the plant, slowly squeeze the pot sides allowing the plant to slide out into the palm of your supporting hand.
Once the pot is off, turn the plant back up and slowly break away the soil, you may break a few of the smaller roots but don't worry too much, its a weed and will recover.
After you have most of the old soil removed, its time to dunk the roots in the 5 gal pail of fresh water, hold the base of the stem with one hand and slowly massage the roots with the other until the all dirt is off. Once you have the dirt removed, inspect the roots, Pythium (root rot) will show as a brown, slimy sticky stinky mass, hopefully if you are unfortunate to have it, it is contained to the smaller hairy roots and not the bigger "leader or Tap roots". Try and leave those alone and wash it away, if you have to trim on them, do so only at the very bottoms.
If you do find root rot, and have trimmed away the bulk of it, then sit the roots in the ice cream pail or bowl of H2O2/water for 15-20 minutes keeping the stem and plant leaves out of the water. I use a piece of string tied at the base of the stem and to the pail handle to keep it out, if using a bowl, you may have to find something else to tie it to.
While the plant roots are soaking, prep your new container, if using the old container, clean it and the run-off tray well with a bleach solution. Fill the clean pot about 1/3 full of the new soil mix and make a depression in the center for the roots and still leaving a couple inches of soil at the very bottom.
After soaking in the H2O2 solution for awhile, gently massage the roots while in the solution and let sit for the last 5 minutes. Now transfer the roots to the pail of fresh water to massage and rinse them off, inspect for any remaining rot, your roots should be a light Tan to creamy White color when done. If you find any remaining rot, just snip it off and repeat the H2O2/rinse process until you are satisfied you got rid of most of it.
Now place the root ball in the depression you made in your fresh pot keeping the stem base about 1 inch below the top of the pot, hold it at the base with one hand and spread out some of the smaller roots around the bottom of the pot. add 2-3 handful's of soil and lightly compact, repeat until you are about 1 inch from the top of the pot.
Once your pot is full, slowly add some water, allow it to soak in a minute and add some more, as you water the soil will naturally compact, as it does, just add a handful of soil as needed but don't hand compact it, let the water do it for you. Once you get about 20% run-off, dump your catch tray and let them settle in.
I would try to plan this so you are finished up about an hour before lights off so the plants have the dark period to adjust, I would water with 1/4 strength nutes to start with gradually increasing with the next couple watering's. I would also recommend adding a beneficial bacteria to your watering's, I recommend Z7 but there is also Great White, Voodoo Juice, and other products out there, just make sure it is for soil/soiless medium and not Hydro.
If you do find you have root rot, you can toss your old soil, it is contaminated and the only way to kill the nasty's is to bake it in the oven which is a pain in the ass.
Good luck and if you have any questions let us know, taking a few pictures and documenting on your journal will be very useful information to others that stop by!
Prep all of these things first before you start;
1. A 5 gal bucket 3/4 full with fresh 60-70 degree water
2. A 5 gal or larger flat tote or 5' x 5' piece of sturdy plastic
3. 2 5 quart ice cream buckets or equivalent plastic bowls, one filled with a mixture of 2 quarts 60-70 degree water and one cup of 3% H2O2 and one with fresh water.
4. Prepped fresh soil with a 25-30% perlite mixture
5. A scissors or trimmer with the blades cleaned with rubbing alcohol
6. A camera to document the process and take pictures if you run into anything that you have questions about.
Slide your hand under the canopy with the base of the stem between your index finger and middle finger to support the plant and pick up the pot. Working above your tub or plastic, turn the plant upside down, taking care not to bang or break the tops of the plant, slowly squeeze the pot sides allowing the plant to slide out into the palm of your supporting hand.
Once the pot is off, turn the plant back up and slowly break away the soil, you may break a few of the smaller roots but don't worry too much, its a weed and will recover.
After you have most of the old soil removed, its time to dunk the roots in the 5 gal pail of fresh water, hold the base of the stem with one hand and slowly massage the roots with the other until the all dirt is off. Once you have the dirt removed, inspect the roots, Pythium (root rot) will show as a brown, slimy sticky stinky mass, hopefully if you are unfortunate to have it, it is contained to the smaller hairy roots and not the bigger "leader or Tap roots". Try and leave those alone and wash it away, if you have to trim on them, do so only at the very bottoms.
If you do find root rot, and have trimmed away the bulk of it, then sit the roots in the ice cream pail or bowl of H2O2/water for 15-20 minutes keeping the stem and plant leaves out of the water. I use a piece of string tied at the base of the stem and to the pail handle to keep it out, if using a bowl, you may have to find something else to tie it to.
While the plant roots are soaking, prep your new container, if using the old container, clean it and the run-off tray well with a bleach solution. Fill the clean pot about 1/3 full of the new soil mix and make a depression in the center for the roots and still leaving a couple inches of soil at the very bottom.
After soaking in the H2O2 solution for awhile, gently massage the roots while in the solution and let sit for the last 5 minutes. Now transfer the roots to the pail of fresh water to massage and rinse them off, inspect for any remaining rot, your roots should be a light Tan to creamy White color when done. If you find any remaining rot, just snip it off and repeat the H2O2/rinse process until you are satisfied you got rid of most of it.
Now place the root ball in the depression you made in your fresh pot keeping the stem base about 1 inch below the top of the pot, hold it at the base with one hand and spread out some of the smaller roots around the bottom of the pot. add 2-3 handful's of soil and lightly compact, repeat until you are about 1 inch from the top of the pot.
Once your pot is full, slowly add some water, allow it to soak in a minute and add some more, as you water the soil will naturally compact, as it does, just add a handful of soil as needed but don't hand compact it, let the water do it for you. Once you get about 20% run-off, dump your catch tray and let them settle in.
I would try to plan this so you are finished up about an hour before lights off so the plants have the dark period to adjust, I would water with 1/4 strength nutes to start with gradually increasing with the next couple watering's. I would also recommend adding a beneficial bacteria to your watering's, I recommend Z7 but there is also Great White, Voodoo Juice, and other products out there, just make sure it is for soil/soiless medium and not Hydro.
If you do find you have root rot, you can toss your old soil, it is contaminated and the only way to kill the nasty's is to bake it in the oven which is a pain in the ass.
Good luck and if you have any questions let us know, taking a few pictures and documenting on your journal will be very useful information to others that stop by!
- Thread starter
- #180
Herbshuttles
Well-Known Member
Wow thank you OTM that was honestly more than I ever expected!! Blessed to have somebody like you, science, cheap and everybody else who's been so invested in helping me out here. Restoring my faith in the world. It def seems possible for me to do this all however here's the thing. I hate to doubt myself but I feel like it may be a little difficult to do this all on my own. I also hate negative thinking but there's this voice telling me I'm bound to mess it up and make a huge mess in the process. On top of that I'm not quite sure root rot is the problem. It would normally make sense however, I suspected root rot much much earlier on. Maybe 3 nodes before I even topped. And ever since then I've been careful to not overwater. So I'm not completely sold on that being the issue. On top of that I've seen decent growth since I chilled out with the heavy watering. Nevertheless, I trust your expertise over my noob thoughts any day. I'm worried that maybe it's multiple issues and I'm hoping to solve them asap. Still struggling with the temp as when the ice in the pan melts the temp rises right back up to 81. And when I turn on the other light, as the plants get bigger, it will only get more hot. Tonight I noticed a different issue with this leaf. It seems the leaf's veins have turned mud-brown with mud-brown spots. Does this help your diagnosis on what may be wrong? (Yes I'm still clinging on to the idea that I may be able to solve this without transplanting, forgive me)
