2nd Inside Grow

:scratchinghead::helpsmilie:..anyone want to take a shot at diagnosing why these leaves are yellowish...PH in a 2L

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are you as good as you think..no info on plant...
 
All things being equal the simplest explanation is best! That said hmmm.

I found this and it is not mine. I thought it interesting and amusing:

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.
 
have a look at my blog Miwa.
see if that helps you finger out the poser you have with the yellowing. if you haven't already:)
 
WizHigh said:
AN nutes won't keep your PH stable. It only works when you first add it to the res. when your PH drops & PPM that means the plants are up taking the nutes alot faster
Click to expand...


shows how much i know about hydro...thanks again Wiz..dam thats two thank yous in one day..that definantly deserves a + rep...:bravo:
 
Thanks miwa. just sharing info to a fellow friend/grower. You dont want to keep adding nutes to the res though when this happens. But you dont have to keep fixing the PH either, you can just add half nutes once inbetween each res change. I dont check my PH at all. Im using BPN and AN also but your using 3part so IDK how that would work out? Is the 3part organic?
 
WizHigh said:
Thanks miwa. just sharing info to a fellow friend/grower. You dont want to keep adding nutes to the res though when this happens. But you dont have to keep fixing the PH either, you can just add half nutes once inbetween each res change. I dont check my PH at all. Im using BPN and AN also but your using 3part so IDK how that would work out? Is the 3part organic?
Click to expand...

yep..3 part org..i just went ahead and changed my water..i wasn't really watching the 2L..was focused more on my pots..i didn't know my ph was that low..
 
man...this rain has finally paused..i can uncover my outside girls..been covered for 2 days..but..they had cfls on them...my 2L hempy seems to be ok...when i went to bed the ppm was 304..this morn its 297...PH=5.9...outstanding!!!..rootball is dragging coming out the top...so that calls for a repot...going to a 4 gal...roots still pearly white..the critical mass at the other spot has pm..i drowned her with a baking soda solution...this scope is driving me crazy trying to see trics..i put in a order at amazon for a usb scope..thats best for seeing amber..now for some plant management...
 
The 2L dwc, does it have an air stone in it?

I would pump the nutes up to 200ppm for a few days and see if that makes a difference, and test ph after you add nutes, if they are too low, add some ph up. It's what it's for.
 
LEDRF said:
The 2L dwc, does it have an air stone in it?

I would pump the nutes up to 200ppm for a few days and see if that makes a difference, and test ph after you add nutes, if they are too low, add some ph up. It's what it's for.
Click to expand...


I wouldnt mess with the PH at all. Its organic so how can it hurt not to adjust the PH? Since its 3 part, micro would need to be used more. Organic is something hard to get used to because you never know if its enough or to little. Its like a time release fert. Takes time for all of the organic stuff to break down and be available. So even if you do a res change today the nutes may not be available fully until the week after. So you may see some slight changes as he did in the plants color. I wouldnt do a res change at all threw veg. I would just add half nutes with water threw the weeks every time the level drops.
 
LEDRF said:
The 2L dwc, does it have an air stone in it?

I would pump the nutes up to 200ppm for a few days and see if that makes a difference, and test ph after you add nutes, if they are too low, add some ph up. It's what it's for.
Click to expand...

WizHigh said:
I wouldnt mess with the PH at all. Its organic so how can it hurt not to adjust the PH? Since its 3 part, micro would need to be used more. Organic is something hard to get used to because you never know if its enough or to little. Its like a time release fert. Takes time for all of the organic stuff to break down and be available. So even if you do a res change today the nutes may not be available fully until the week after. So you may see some slight changes as he did in the plants color. I wouldnt do a res change at all threw veg. I would just add half nutes with water threw the weeks every time the level drops.
Click to expand...



whatever yall be smokin on..take a pause..for my pots i'm using BPN 3-part...for my DWC i'm using AN A & B...yall missed my post..ppms were at 304...ph at 5.8...next day..ppms dropped to 297...ph was 5.9...water was down...my plant is eating and drinking..haven't checked today yet..going to do that now and post pics...
 
Fantastic..plant in 2L...ppms dropped again..from 297 to 286...ph didn't move..steady at 5.9...plant roots are too big for bottle opening so she goes into a 2 gal bucket today...plants in the ground have been covered for 4 days..its been raining with low night temps..just checked ..and both plants were into lights..good thing they are cfls..cloudy and cold today so i just left things as they were..but raise the lights...


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back inside..PE...PH...2046...

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i just topped some more PHs..all of them has hollow stems..i put cloning powder on them..3 has been topped for a week..they will start their LSTing today...top for bushes...

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still got a PH reveg...too small to do anything with..and my hempy...

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moving right along..some shots after i got high.:cheesygrinsmiley:..

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cloner filling up..

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photos of my flowering plants up sat..later...stay focus...
 
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