1080w LED Inferno

ganjaballz said:
What you need is a solar powered cryo cooler.

I've been wanting to build one of these setups for a long time just to generate large amounts of solar energy without the expense and space the panels require.

Basically, it uses a parabolic mirror to direct sunlight onto a Stirling engine. The Stirling engine moves a linear alternator to make lots of power (megawatts vs solar panels). Here's a video of the best system NASA and DOD use: Infinia Stirling Solar

If you just wanted to cool something though a Stirling engine in reverse is a cryo cooler - the same thing used to keep liquid nitrogen cool in labs. You could make a very, very small mod of the solar stirling and use it to drive a cryo cooler. From there you could cool a water reservoir, send super cooled liquid through pipes in / around your plants and in front of a fan, etc. You wouldn't need the big parabolic mirror, you could use a small Fresnel lens instead and actually get better performance.

I really need to build a couple of these and start selling them.....
Click to expand...


i want one plz. very very cool. :thumb:
 
hey irish. i got a better intake fan and i filter for in the tent today. should be a whole lot air movin around. before i didnt really have a intake fan. do u think this will help with the pm more?
 
ganjaballz said:
My understanding (right or wrong) is that at this stage the newest growth will be the smaller leaves at the top of the plant.

Just as the bottom leaves indicate past problems, the small, top leaves show you early warning of the newest problems. If you see the loss of color spreading to leaves further down, especially the part of the leaf closest to the stem it should set off the alarm that you have a new issue starting to affect your plant.

Loss of color can indicate too much heat or loss of nutrients according to the mj botany book I'm reading. They are interactive problems, though. Too much heat causes a variety of symptoms, including suspension of nutrient uptake and the chlorophyll process slowing or stopping. The plant can even shut down parts of itself to keep the core alive and wait out the problem.
Click to expand...

Plant nutrients which can move from places where they are stored to places where they are needed are called plant mobile. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are always plant mobile nutrients. Deficiencies are noticeable first on older tissue. Plant immobile element deficiencies are noticeable first on younger tissue. Calcium and boron are always plant immobile nutrients. Sulfur, chloride, copper, zinc, manganese, iron and molybdenum are intermediate in plant mobility. Under certain circumstances the intermediate elements are mobile. Mobility in intermediate elements may be linked to the breakdown under low nitrogen conditions of amino acids and proteins in older parts of the plant, and the mobility of these organic compounds to younger parts of the plant in the phloem stream. Under good nitrogen availability, these elements are mostly immobile.
 
ganjaballz said:
What you need is a solar powered cryo cooler.

I've been wanting to build one of these setups for a long time just to generate large amounts of solar energy without the expense and space the panels require.

Basically, it uses a parabolic mirror to direct sunlight onto a Stirling engine. The Stirling engine moves a linear alternator to make lots of power (megawatts vs solar panels). Here's a video of the best system NASA and DOD use: Infinia Stirling Solar

If you just wanted to cool something though a Stirling engine in reverse is a cryo cooler - the same thing used to keep liquid nitrogen cool in labs. You could make a very, very small mod of the solar stirling and use it to drive a cryo cooler. From there you could cool a water reservoir, send super cooled liquid through pipes in / around your plants and in front of a fan, etc. You wouldn't need the big parabolic mirror, you could use a small Fresnel lens instead and actually get better performance.

I really need to build a couple of these and start selling them.....
Click to expand...

staffy said:
i want one plz. very very cool. :thumb:
Click to expand...
me to!! just dont want to build one, but would probably buy one.
staffy said:
hey irish. i got a better intake fan and i filter for in the tent today. should be a whole lot air movin around. before i didnt really have a intake fan. do u think this will help with the pm more?
Click to expand...
yes big time.
 
staffy said:
aww. buildin one would be ace. big project indeed, but fun!!
Click to expand...

Yeah I hear yuh.Ive been looking into it for some time now and for sure to run an ok set up with solar your looking at 3000 dallars to run just 1000watts.If you build your own.I kinda get the erge to hook up one of them nice big 1000 watt units cal trans leaves around there work sight to my trailer hitch every time I drive by one lol.Those ones are spendy 5-10 grand im pretty sure but I could be wrong.:smokin2:
 
IrishBoy said:
heres some more pics.. these are all DM buds mainly the red bottle.. The DM purple bottle plants are the ones in the back ground.. the OC+ is far behind but i will wait to post those pics trying to see if watering everyday helps?

ive notice some strand things though.. the red bottle DM plants are getting some bleaching but those buds are not the closes ones to the light. its very strange? theirs nothing i can do i am maxed out of light hight, so its just gonna have to be i guess? no other plants or doing it but those ones. one of the OC+ plants are pretty close to the light but no bleaching for some reason.

100_3105_600x449.JPG

100_3106_600x449.JPG

100_3102_600x449.JPG

https://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/100_3104_600x449.JPG
Patience is key....Sweet bro looking good:blunt:
Click to expand...
 
turttle said:
Yeah I hear yuh.Ive been looking into it for some time now and for sure to run an ok set up with solar your looking at 3000 dallars to run just 1000watts.If you build your own.I kinda get the erge to hook up one of them nice big 1000 watt units cal trans leaves around there work sight to my trailer hitch every time I drive by one lol.Those ones are spendy 5-10 grand im pretty sure but I could be wrong.:smokin2:
Click to expand...

You can build it yourself for less than a hundred bucks. Getting max output from the linear alternator would be the ongoing booger.

What I'm thinking of would be about the size of a toolbox, would not have the big parabolic mirror on it and would be a portable "grow pack". Solar powered, it would generate cryo cooling and pull water from the atmosphere for irrigation. An automated feeder to add nutes into the irrigation flow would be the last bit of tech on it. It would be able to generate enough power to run itself and possibly have a bit left over for a security device of some kind.

A res chiller will run you about 500 bucks or so. I can build a small cryo cooler for at least half that if not less for an indoor grow.
 
ganjaballz said:
You can build it yourself for less than a hundred bucks. Getting max output from the linear alternator would be the ongoing booger.

What I'm thinking of would be about the size of a toolbox, would not have the big parabolic mirror on it and would be a portable "grow pack". Solar powered, it would generate cryo cooling and pull water from the atmosphere for irrigation. An automated feeder to add nutes into the irrigation flow would be the last bit of tech on it. It would be able to generate enough power to run itself and possibly have a bit left over for a security device of some kind.

A res chiller will run you about 500 bucks or so. I can build a small cryo cooler for at least half that if not less for an indoor grow.
Click to expand...

I had mainly lighting in mind.I will half to look into this tech for a chiller and irigation.Yah you can pick up smaller units for pumps and irrigation any ware pretty cheap.A good battery would be most of the expense about 100 bucks but your only going to get about 150 watts..but your chiller ideal has cought my attention I will half to look into that.
 
IrishBoy said:
Plant nutrients which can move from places where they are stored to places where they are needed are called plant mobile. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are always plant mobile nutrients. Deficiencies are noticeable first on older tissue. Plant immobile element deficiencies are noticeable first on younger tissue. Calcium and boron are always plant immobile nutrients. Sulfur, chloride, copper, zinc, manganese, iron and molybdenum are intermediate in plant mobility. Under certain circumstances the intermediate elements are mobile. Mobility in intermediate elements may be linked to the breakdown under low nitrogen conditions of amino acids and proteins in older parts of the plant, and the mobility of these organic compounds to younger parts of the plant in the phloem stream. Under good nitrogen availability, these elements are mostly immobile.
Click to expand...

I know more about growing non mj plants in hydro but I'm pretty sure the location of the defect on the plant depends on what kind of problem you're having.

I had a cam set up to take photos once per hour when my lighting incident happened. (I just wish I'd checked them in person during that two day period). The newest leaves lost color first, then the older growth leaves curled up and really lost color. It was very, very subtle. If something like that happens again I'm hoping that same sequence will help me catch it before the damage is done.

Spot damage can be a sign of predation also, forgot to include that one.

You're right though, the various processes of nutrition in plants is extremely complex. Without the resources to make very detailed analysis of our soil / water and the plant itself we can only make what seems to be very large / crude adjustments to problems which may be very specific. (Dumping a planting media to solve a nutrient imbalance is a good example). Then again, thanks to those who've gone before us the large scale solutions usually work. :)

oops - re read your post and realized you said pretty much the same thing w/ clarification. Sorry, I have way too much going on at once at the moment.
 
IrishBoy said:
ya solar power cost allot of money
Click to expand...

That's why all the money is being spent on Stirling based systems by NASA and DOD. They can get much higher conversion ratios (cost vs. power generated) on top of needing less space, cheaper to maintain, etc.

I keep reading about these advances in solar PV production that will make solar more affordable. Still waiting....

NASA hit over 80 percent efficiency with the last big Stirling solar experiment. They need to solve certain issues with the Stirling engines lifespan to make it the decisive "go to" but they're using it in most of the new spacecraft. (The ones which cannot be nuclear and a type of nuclear Stirling combo).

If you build it yourself and can fix it or replace it yourself that affordability get's pretty interesting. You can build a very nice engine using nothing but junk parts from around the house.

I just need the time and energy to do it. I have so many projects going I keep blowing it off. Next time we lose power for a few days I bet that changes....
 
holy shit irish! those beasties be fine. they look happy. you might want to check now and again for hippies or low lifes like me. you might have a drum circle or a shanty town sprouting up under that canopy. :tokin:
 
Not sure I have the words to describe those lovely ladies. So I will just go with Holy Cow!!!!!!! Amazing...
 
Back
Top Bottom