"Horsetail tea is extracted from the common horsetail (Equisetum arvense), a plant especially rich in silica.? Horsetail is best seen as a prophylactic (disease-preventing, not disease-curing) spray with a mild fungus-repressing effect.? During the months when green plants are not readily available, you can prepare an extract by covering dry plants with water and allowing them to ferment in a sunny place for about ten days.? Dried equisetem, available through the Josephine Porter Institute for Applied Biodynamics (2) in Woolwine, Virginia, can also be used to make horsetail tea.?? ?"
1080w LED Inferno
- Thread starter IrishBoy
- Start date
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- #2,102
true..
ya it sucks its been close to 100F for the most part of the grow, i have no way to run AC in my grow room, it sucks but the girls just deal with what they got, it is going to cool off real soon.
good to know, but IMO i rather use Silica from the hydro store, its allot easier for me since the hard work is already done, just poor it in and be on my way. but thats good info thanks for sharing it with me.
ganjaballz
Active Member
You could try setting up an evap cooler. Take a cooler, fill with ice and water and put a fan in the lid blowing into it. Grab an evap cooler pad form the hardware store and set up a pump to keep water from the cooler soaking it. Cut another hole in the lid for the cool air to exhaust and put some kind of deflector on it if you need to.
It can get you a 10 to 20 degree drop or better that lasts for 8 hours or more. Even after the ice melts it still works, enough to only have to replace the ice once per day. It's a trick we used to cool tents in the military when there were no A/C units available and it works very, very well. In dry climates it works better than AC.
It's also a great way to cool a hydro reservoir - all you have to do is run a loop of water piping into the cooler and back to the cooler from a spare manifold outlet or t adapter.
It can get you a 10 to 20 degree drop or better that lasts for 8 hours or more. Even after the ice melts it still works, enough to only have to replace the ice once per day. It's a trick we used to cool tents in the military when there were no A/C units available and it works very, very well. In dry climates it works better than AC.
It's also a great way to cool a hydro reservoir - all you have to do is run a loop of water piping into the cooler and back to the cooler from a spare manifold outlet or t adapter.
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- #2,104
i have one and it dosent do much in my area. RH is high right now, so the swamp cooler is useless. even when my RH 19% it only dropped the room temps a few degrees. i dont think it was worth the money IMO unless u have a A/C to run with it. puts too much moister in the room.
trichtone
New Member
You know, I believe it just because it's yet another of those "tight tolerance" type things that seem to make such huge differences with mj.
90F+ - plants may go comatose or die
85-90F - plants make trichs like a China Gucci knock off assembly line
80-85F - growth and dev slow down for various species
I can maintain a stable 82 without much effort. Getting above 85 isn't worth the possible over-heat in my situation. I should have built the attic chamber with climate control...
I don't know if it is worth anything, but in my setup I had to grow with some seriously high temps. I don't have an easy way to cool the cabinet. I had around 15 days where my cabinet temps were 100-104 F, around 45 days between 91 - 99 F, and around 25 days between 85- 89 F. So far the ladies have responded well. It is curious to me and I wonder if growing with LED's changes the recommended heat status quo? Now one variable to take into consideration, is that 75% of the 100+ heat was during veg. However, I did have a lot 96 - 99 F days under flower.
- Thread starter
- #2,106
I don't know if it is worth anything, but in my setup I had to grow with some seriously high temps. I don't have an easy way to cool the cabinet. I had around 15 days where my cabinet temps were 100-104 F, around 45 days between 91 - 99 F, and around 25 days between 85- 89 F. So far the ladies have responded well. It is curious to me and I wonder if growing with LED's changes the recommended heat status quo? Now one variable to take into consideration, is that 75% of the 100+ heat was during veg. However, I did have a lot 96 - 99 F days under flower.
ya in the beginning of this thread we have pages and pages on this stuff. long story short, some of us were thinking the less IR with leds make the plants not get fried in high temps like HID.
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- #2,107
alright rotated my plants around to put the bleached tops out of direct light, that because a pain in the ass.lol.. the plants grew into their space and was using other branches to support them, so once i moved them a few heavy branches fell over. so i had to support and tie them up. i knew that was coming sooner or latter because the branches and so long. but after a few hours i think i got everything good to go. ive learn a few things about this light i believe.. its better to have this light farther away then close, ive notice the same thing i noticed on my last grow, the branches that arnt directly under the light just get nice and fat. or the ones that are farther away also do. from what i can see, its best to keep this 300w around 14" IMO.. seems to be a good hight from what ive seen
ive learn a few things about this light i believe.. its better to have this light farther away then close, ive notice the same thing i noticed on my last grow, the branches that arnt directly under the light just get nice and fat. or the ones that are farther away also do. from what i can see, its best to keep this 300w around 14" IMO.. seems to be a good hight from what ive seen
Well i'm back once again. I cant believe yur babies are still flowering. They do indeed look like they are going to throw some monster colas 
And to have them going and having the temp issues you are dealing with
brotha
And to have them going and having the temp issues you are dealing with
brotha - Thread starter
- #2,110
i have no clue bro? 24" seems kinda high. to be i dont think the hight hight Varese too much from each one. you would have to play around with te light and ur strains to see how they take to the light.. each strain is different.
Well i'm back once again. I cant believe yur babies are still flowering. They do indeed look like they are going to throw some monster colas
And to have them going and having the temp issues you are dealing with
thanks bro.. its been a very long road, and i just want it to be done. and start fresh with smaller plants.. big ass plants are not as fun to grow as it seems, you have to keep tying then to support them and its a pain sometimes.. but as long as i get some good buds ill be happy at the end.. next grow things will be cooler and i will be using coco so i dont have to water all the time.
but from the looks of things the tops should be pretty fat.
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- #2,111
Everyone who has not seen this thread, you should check it out Seed Madness Medical Grow by The Butcher
butcher grows some super frosty danky buds that i have ever seen.. i think everyone can learn from him. Make sure to check out his gallery pics, truly amazing pics of some bad a$$ strains.
butcher grows some super frosty danky buds that i have ever seen.. i think everyone can learn from him. Make sure to check out his gallery pics, truly amazing pics of some bad a$$ strains.
Wingman420
Commercial Cultivator
BEAUTIFUL BUDS Irish!
Now thats what I am talking about,my man!
+Rep Great Journal
Now thats what I am talking about,
my man! +Rep Great Journal
Nope, it will not.... It doesn't quite cover it.. I think it is more like a 3x3 area that it covers.. Most of my plants on the outside edge are growing in towards the light....My light is around 26" above the canopy......
Irish, looking good as always.... You da man!!!!!!
j4s2u0
New Member
Plants are looking great!
- Thread starter
- #2,115
BEAUTIFUL BUDS Irish!
Now thats what I am talking about,
+Rep Great Journal
Irish, looking good as always.... You da man!!!!!!
thanks guys!
Sonzor
New Member
Sorry I cant help you out with the bleaching but the wealth of knowledge you attract with you journals will sniff out the answer. As always you plants look amazing. Very nice job... as always....
ganjaballz
Active Member
Spot bleaching is more than likely hot spots as you surmised. I would have moved the lights around if at all possible vs. moving the plants (at that stage, I moved my plants around the other day now that I'm down to three, no reason to have them shading each other at this point).
Top growth bleaching where entire leaves are effected points more towards a nutrient issue of some kind, possibly PH or lock out due to build up of some kind. High heat could cause this also.
You're in kind of a tough spot, actually. Your temps are already "too high" or at the top of the range so diagnosing any further heat related issues like lights too close, ventilation, etc will be difficult. I would go to Wal Mart and get a 99.00 window A/C unit and make some kind of cooling enclosure. I'd be freaked out that my buds wouldn't develop fully due to the high heat.
W/ the silica and good genetics you've done great. I hope your spraying the tops down at least once per day if not more. Just out of curiosity, how much water is your grow using per day at this stage?
Top growth bleaching where entire leaves are effected points more towards a nutrient issue of some kind, possibly PH or lock out due to build up of some kind. High heat could cause this also.
You're in kind of a tough spot, actually. Your temps are already "too high" or at the top of the range so diagnosing any further heat related issues like lights too close, ventilation, etc will be difficult. I would go to Wal Mart and get a 99.00 window A/C unit and make some kind of cooling enclosure. I'd be freaked out that my buds wouldn't develop fully due to the high heat.
W/ the silica and good genetics you've done great. I hope your spraying the tops down at least once per day if not more. Just out of curiosity, how much water is your grow using per day at this stage?
- Thread starter
- #2,118
thanks!
if i moved the lights around it would have effected to covarge of the other plants. it was better to just move that one plant. now i have the canopy allot more open up
the only time ive seen bleaching was from the lights. Do you know what Def causes that? what makes you think its a nute def that causes this? Thanks for sharing this info
i cant do it bro, i wish i could, but its not possible in my grow area.
ya Genetics is everything and the Silica help to. I dont Spray my plants, i dont believe in it. it just opens the door for more problems like mold, or burning the leaves from the light IMO. about 1/2 gal a day maybe they use?
ganjaballz
Active Member
My understanding (right or wrong) is that at this stage the newest growth will be the smaller leaves at the top of the plant.
Just as the bottom leaves indicate past problems, the small, top leaves show you early warning of the newest problems. If you see the loss of color spreading to leaves further down, especially the part of the leaf closest to the stem it should set off the alarm that you have a new issue starting to affect your plant.
Loss of color can indicate too much heat or loss of nutrients according to the mj botany book I'm reading. They are interactive problems, though. Too much heat causes a variety of symptoms, including suspension of nutrient uptake and the photosynthesis process slowing or stopping. The plant can even shut down parts of itself to keep the core alive and wait out the problem.
Just as the bottom leaves indicate past problems, the small, top leaves show you early warning of the newest problems. If you see the loss of color spreading to leaves further down, especially the part of the leaf closest to the stem it should set off the alarm that you have a new issue starting to affect your plant.
Loss of color can indicate too much heat or loss of nutrients according to the mj botany book I'm reading. They are interactive problems, though. Too much heat causes a variety of symptoms, including suspension of nutrient uptake and the photosynthesis process slowing or stopping. The plant can even shut down parts of itself to keep the core alive and wait out the problem.
ganjaballz
Active Member
What you need is a solar powered cryo cooler.
I've been wanting to build one of these setups for a long time just to generate large amounts of solar energy without the expense and space the panels require.
Basically, it uses a parabolic mirror to direct sunlight onto a Stirling engine. The Stirling engine moves a linear alternator to make lots of power (megawatts vs solar panels). Here's a video of the best system NASA and DOD use: Infinia Stirling Solar
If you just wanted to cool something though a Stirling engine in reverse is a cryo cooler - the same thing used to keep liquid nitrogen cool in labs. You could make a very, very small mod of the solar stirling and use it to drive a cryo cooler. From there you could cool a water reservoir, send super cooled liquid through pipes in / around your plants and in front of a fan, etc. You wouldn't need the big parabolic mirror, you could use a small Fresnel lens instead and actually get better performance.
I really need to build a couple of these and start selling them.....
I've been wanting to build one of these setups for a long time just to generate large amounts of solar energy without the expense and space the panels require.
Basically, it uses a parabolic mirror to direct sunlight onto a Stirling engine. The Stirling engine moves a linear alternator to make lots of power (megawatts vs solar panels). Here's a video of the best system NASA and DOD use: Infinia Stirling Solar
If you just wanted to cool something though a Stirling engine in reverse is a cryo cooler - the same thing used to keep liquid nitrogen cool in labs. You could make a very, very small mod of the solar stirling and use it to drive a cryo cooler. From there you could cool a water reservoir, send super cooled liquid through pipes in / around your plants and in front of a fan, etc. You wouldn't need the big parabolic mirror, you could use a small Fresnel lens instead and actually get better performance.
I really need to build a couple of these and start selling them.....