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So, do you think it will be worth it to spend the $$ on a MH bulb? If there is that much difference, then I'll need a seperate ballast, right? They tried to sell me both bulbs at the grow shop after I chose the hood and ballast(one-piece ), so maybe I can use the MH bulb too? I plan on growing them out for about a month, then chopping off all the clones that I can and turning this into a 2L hempy grow with half the bottles coco, half perlite/vermiculite. The moms will be destroyed by this, as I have no second light to keep a mom vegging. Will the 4-6 weeks of veg plus 1 week in the cloner merit the investment? They will be defoliated once the hempy grow starts.The simple method would be to keep the tent cracked or open while the light is on so you can get the fresh cooler air flowing in to replace the hot. I've grown a couple plants entirely with HPS just to see the difference, and there is quite a noticeable difference in node spacing, the HPS grown plants were more lanky and ended up taller with fewer branches. If you can, get a MH bulb for the veg period.. It isn't needed, but will improve your grow.. You can always invest in it next time around.
One more note, HPS puts off much more heat than MH.. for example, my 600w HPS puts out 90k lumens and my 600w MH only puts out around 55k lumens, so there is a little less heat with MH bulbs.
MH = metal halide
Ok, thanks. Good info!Get rid of the dome and get some air moving in there even if you need to leave the tent door open. Move the light all the way to the top then once they pop move it 6-8 inches closer every day.
a fan pointed directly at the girls, and the door open for the rest of the day cycle. I'm hoping they don't dry up, so I'm keeping the tray a little fuller of water.
While you dont want them to dry up standing water is asking for trouble.I'm keeping the tray a little fuller of water
The fan on them is only a 6" clip on, and it is a foot or so away clipped to a convenient bottle of nutes. The tall sprout doesn't dance or bow in the breeze, so I'm sure it's not too strong. I am working on a carbon filter for heat and air exchange, but low on cash after the investment, and rent is due in a week - hence the open door technique for a week....the idea is a gental breeze...and to keep fresh air moving in and out of the area. You need to think about how you are going to vent the tent...
Good point, and well taken. Draining the tray and removing the water dish as we speak. hopefully will also help with the gnats!While you dont want them to dry up standing water is asking for trouble.
Thanks! I'd like to hand out cigars to all, but I am celebrating with my own smoke over here!Oh and BTW tell the baby girls happy birthday for me
Everything looking good blue! Do u have an exhaust in that tent? Im anxious to see how your WW turn out. I got six of those beans for my next grow
I dont think you will get anybody to challenge that 60-75% RH is ideal in veg...but i think you will get plenty to concur that 30 isnt going to hurt you at this point.
Transpiration is the engine that makes plants do their thing. Google it to learn more.
The dryer the air the more Transpiration takes place. As long as there is enough moister in the root zone to keep up...growth will happen.
You can mist the one that did not drop the shell yet to help keep the shell soft so it can push its way out.
good advice there, your humidity isn't that big of a factor, whenever your humidity is low, like now, as long as you mist the plants every couple of days, they'll grow just fine. Sure it's great to have the ideal environment, but having played around with varying factors inside my own grow room over the years, much of what is stressed is really just enthusiasts tweaking every possible aspect to squeeze that extra gram out of their garden.