White powder mold

N

Novatokeman

New Member
plants are doing very well they are hidden within a extensive flower garden that is %70 covered in the white powder of death but is less than 1 meter away..... these are the camouflage to the real garden.
i figure i have 3 options
build a small polly greenhouse
leave infected and sprat the fuck outa em with milk n baking soda
remove infected expose garden

any input here would be great
thanks
 
first time reading this. Personally I'd hit the plants hard with neem at least once a week for the remainder of their lives. And hope for the best.
 
More likely poor air flow around the plants to induce powdery mildew problem which can raise ambient humidity with in the micro climate it may also lead to bud rot later on !

Space them out etc or find a better place for them with more moving air...

Get preventive treatments to put it in check before losing ya work more likely organic based stuff as ya more likely don't want smoke synthetic crap which may lead to health problems.

Have a look at this sponsor link - SNS-244? Fungicide, 32 oz RTU | Shop | Sierra Natural Science
 
Thats it !Vinegar n water. It should melt this away..right? I thought it was bird droppings but started to wonder about mold. I tried to rinse it with straight water and this is the result.Last year I did something and it came right off...Vinegar n water ,i think thats the answer...thanks Red
mold9.jpg
 
Well I harvested her today and ....every branch had some mold...I threw it in the wood stove.. I tryed to save one last year and cut out all the mold.,But even if there wasn't any mold touching it, What was left still smelled funky. So I pitched it.... Out of 5 plants it was the only one to have mold...A bad Pheno? sp (is this even the right term?) a Pheno is like a trait .Like red hair or tall and shinny ,right? If this true ,all the more reason to touch it , Right?. Thanks for any advice....,Red
 
Stoned Redneck said:
Well I harvested her today and ....every branch had some mold...I threw it in the wood stove.. I tryed to save one last year and cut out all the mold.,But even if there wasn't any mold touching it, What was left still smelled funky. So I pitched it.... Out of 5 plants it was the only one to have mold...A bad Pheno? sp (is this even the right term?) a Pheno is like a trait .Like red hair or tall and shinny ,right? If this true ,all the more reason to touch it , Right?. Thanks for any advice....,Red
Click to expand...

all the same strain? then maybe a less resistant trait or just where the shit decided to start n you got em in time
 
well ive managed to keep the white mould at bay by spraying entire garden with garlic water and baking soda water.. i built a green house to protect the girls with a fan inside, no white mould ever, but even with all of this at %80 humidity and temps from 5-18c ive been on the loosing side of botrytis and robbed the last 1.5 weeks from them....that north east coast life sucks, time for autos i think
 
Hey Nova.Yes they were all the same strain,Berry Bomb x Hash plant. Both are supposed to be mold resistant..and all have been but that one..I just didn't want to take a chance.I'm trying to make a great strain or two for the Northwet(West).Now that its legal (and I hope all you out there that your day will come soon)....I just want to have a few good strains that will do well up here...I'm growing some Timewarp from BC.Its doing good and so far no mold or other problems a little slow though. Was posted as a early finisher..Not yet......i let one male timewarp pollinate them all.Seemed like a good Father to them......execpt the TW is about 3 weeks behind the BB.I like those early girls.I just finished hanging them all up.Nice having harvest time staggered..Its work !! haha Take care Red. .
 
I was given a small seedling a few months ago and have allowed it to grow out on the porch all summer here in Alaska. When the weather turned cold at night, I brought the plant indoors and put it under a grow light. The plant did great, and then ... it turned out to either be a male plant, or for some reason it herm'd on me! Now, I have this nice, tall lush plant -- with a boatload of ?? seed clusters ?? and now, suddenly, this powder that literally floats all around the plant! It looks as if someone was dusting it with some kind of insecticide! But it smells nice, and when I shake the little tree of a plant, I'm covered in this off-white powdery looking stuff. I was told it was POLLEN! So, how does one tell the difference between pollen and this white powder mold? Since the humidity is normal in the grow room, and since we've grow up to 40 plants in that room without a problem recently .. not sure WHAT to think! I'm too new to know very much, and honestly? I think most people in my village are in the same boat, too. I've had answers run the gamut! How DOES one tell the difference between the two things? The plant itself is VERY nice looking, still reeks to the heavens of terpene-odor, and the leaves are nice and sticky BUT .. no buds, just these flower-like things and 'green seeds' and this ??? pollen ???
 
Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread plant pests. It tends to affect flowering plants and fruit trees or bushes (roses, apple trees, etc.) as well as cannabis. The spores are in the air or on contaminated plants in the garden and can easily be drawn into your grow room by ventilators. In internet forums and cannabis cultivation books you may find lengthy lists of possible treatments that look temptingly promising for a complete recovery at all stages of mildew infestation. But the authors have rarely tested these products themselves, and the compounds are seldom differentiated between those applicable only for growth, and those also safe to use during flowering. This guide is therefore specifically orientated towards publishing some first-hand experiences with a variety of fungicides, and a review on the specific utilisation of products during growth and flowering in cannabis plants.

In warm, dry climate powdery mildew spreads widely. But we have also observed heavy infestations particularly after a long and wet winter. The symptoms even disappeared occasionally during a heat wave. It is therefore unlikely that powdery mildew only affects cannabis plants during a warm and dry weather period.

Powdery mildew can be detected by the white-coating on leaves and shoot tips, which succumb to the infestation by atrophy and eventually die. Only the surface of the leaves is contaminated by the fungus. Very heavily infested plants often cannot be saved. Plants affected by this disease and wilting plants should be removed from the garden if you don't want the spores to spread. If the infestation of powdery mildew arises during the last few weeks of flowering it is possible to control an infestation until harvest. A good fungicide can fully combat powdery mildew, but the treatment is often lengthy and takes several weeks. Mother plants and cuttings should be treated preventively so that valuable genetics are not lost.

Mildew is a surprisingly aggressive fungus taking second place only to bud/grey mold (Botrytis). If you not only require a fungicide for preventive means, but also to combat an infestation, you may need to alternate between several products for the total period of treatment. In the instructions for use it is stated how often a specific compound can be applied per crop. Since fungicides allowed in organic agriculture can be less effective than synthetic products, all preventative management measures to reduce the primary infestation and to improve the microclimate should be exploited optimally. Fungicides are applied at the crucial stages in the development of the plant and the epidemic. Specific traits of the products must be taken into account for outdoor applications (such as rain fastness and hazards to plant health under intense heat or sunlight).

Mildew-1


Photo 1: The first signs of powdery mildew are small circular white spots.

Mildew-mild


Photo 2: As the infection progresses the mildew becomes more visible and covers the leaf surface.

















Mildew-advanced

Photo 3: Powdery mildew can spread very quickly; older leaves start to yellow and wilt.

















Mildew on stems



Photo 4: A heavy infestation can be difficult to contain. The mildew covers all plant parts and weakens plant defences.




Photo 5: Organic residues that cover leaves, such as pollen from seeded buds, easily attracts powdery mildew. The sticky secretions from aphids or white flies have a similar effect. The moldy residues eventually turn brownish-grey with age and can develop black spots.











Buying Fungicides

To begin with, it's important to distinguish the criteria according to which fungicides for organic produce intended for human consumption should be purchased. These criteria ensure not only safety measures for humans, but also for the environment: such as for beneficial insects, animals, and aquatic life. Secondly, the fungicide must be safe to use on a soft-leafed plant species such as cannabis and flowering plants in general (if required for the flowering period). Therefore, the first step when purchasing a fungicide is to check the product information on potential hazards for specific plant species or flowering plants, human consumption, and the environment.

Hazardous
Avoid this sign when purchasing a fungicide!







A fungicide should be purchased according to the following criteria:

good plant tolerance
not harmful to flowering buds
effectiveness for medium to heavy infestation
effectiveness as a preventive product
not toxic for humans
environmentally friendly (pets, water sources, honey bees, etc.)
Fungicides to avoid:

sulphur
 
Knotweed extract induces phytoalexins which infer resistance to powdery mildew and other diseases such as Botrytis. In other words, the extract helps the plant fight the mold rather than attacking the mold directly. We have not tested knotweed products yet and therefore the information presented here is only based upon scientific studies on a variety of other plant species. However, these results do indicate promising effectiveness for cannabis too since a large variety of cultivars respond favourably to the treatment.
There are two primary products on the market: Milsana® and Regalia®. Milsana® is available in Europe. The technical grade active ingredient (TGAI) consists entirely of the dried and ground plant material from harvested Giant knotweed plants grown for this purpose. The end-use product Milsana® is classified as a "Bioprotectant concentrate". It contains 5% of the ethanolic extract of Reynoutria sachalinensis. Milsana® is recommended as a spray on greenhouse grown plants for the purpose of boosting their natural defence mechanisms against certain fungal diseases. The product should be used as a preventive application mainly for the control of powdery mildew and is used for vegetable and fruit plants in Europe for outdoor/greenhouse cultures. No unreasonable adverse effects on humans or the environment are anticipated from exposure to Milsana®.

According to several studies plants such as cucumber, tomato, salad, potted herbs, and strawberries treated with Milsana® were significantly less infected than controls and this protective effect against powdery mildew was maintained over time. When topically applied to various ornamental, vegetable and fruit crops, this product will induce increased amounts of naturally occurring phenolic substances within the plant, which prevent the attack of plant diseases such as powdery mildew and grey mold (Source: Physiological and Molecular Plant Pathology - Volume 61, Issue 2, August 2002, Pages 121-132). On ornamentals and strawberries it is also effective against Botrytis or grey mold. It remains to be seen if it has the same effectiveness for marijuana.
Available in Europe at biohelp and Biofa - biologischer Pflanzenschutz und organische Düngemittel für Weinbau, Gemüsebau, Ackerbau, Obstbau

Regalia® is also a patented formulation of an extract from the Giant knotweed plant and sold in the USA. Regalia's unique mode of action switches on the plant's natural defence mechanisms to inhibit the development of major diseases, including powdery mildew and grey mold. Research shows after treating with Regalia®, plants produce and accumulate elevated levels of specialized proteins and other compounds known to greatly inhibit fungal development. For example, Regalia® will induce a plant to produce cell strengtheners, antioxidants, phenolics, and PR proteins, which are known to fight pathogens that infect plants. Additionally, Regalia® causes an increase in the production of phytoalexins, the "antibiotics" produced by a plant under attack. These act as toxins to the pathogen such as mildew. More info under Marrone Bio Innovations | Home | Natural products for pest management and plant health.


Potassium Bicarbonate

Baking soda has been one of the basic fungicides in use to compbat powdery mildew but it has disadvatanges too. A much more effective product is GreenCure® - a potassium bicarbonate-based fungicide that has been proven to cure and prevent powdery mildew, fusarium, and many other fungal infections. GreenCure® is being used with success by growers in the USA but there are a couple of restrictions for applying it on cannabis that need to be considered. Potassium Bicarbonate is a naturally occurring compound that is widely used in food and is an integral part of humans, animals, plants and virtually all living organisms. It is environmentally friendly and recommended for use on over 150 different flowers, trees, fruits and vegetables. It can be used in organic vegetable production and even indoors. It was found that potassium bicarbonate is 25- 35% more effective than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). In addition, an effective "spreader-sticker" was needed to evenly spread and stick the potassium bicarbonate over a leaf surface to give it the ability to be a powerful fungicide and have lasting and preventative characteristics.

GreenCure® can be used as a good preventative control of powdery mildews by applying 1 tablespoon per gallon of water every 1 to 2 weeks when environmental conditions are ideal for the disease. In cases of moderate to severe infestation GreenCure® can be used to eradicate plant disease by spraying plants completely with a mixture of up to 2 tablespoons of GreenCure® per gallon of water weekly for 3 weeks followed by the preventative program thereafter. GreenCure® kills mold/mildew spores within seconds of contact by causing an immediate dehydration of the spores and destruction of the cell walls. In a greenhouse it is important to spray at times when the sun is not shining as this can cause burning on recently sprayed, wet leaves. For indoor gardens with high intensity lighting it is best to turn lights off after spraying in order to let GreenCure® air dry to avoid burning from hot, intense lighting. Infected plants should ideally be moved to a separate and shadier area after treatment. Lamps can also be hung further up for a few days as an alternative. Potassium bicarbonate is not suitable for treating seedlings and should not be sprayed directly on flowering buds. Therefore, you have to treat leaves carefully with a hand-held spray pump and avoid contact with the buds. Treated leaves should not be smoked. More info under: GreenCure fungicide for curing and preventing powdery mildew, blights, molds and other plant diseases


Garlic Extracts

GarlicGarlic is cheap and readily available. This has made it a favourite "home-grown" pest control, especially among organic gardeners. The volatile antimicrobial substance allicin (diallylthiosulphinate) is produced in garlic when the tissues are damaged during crushing or chopping the garlic. Allicin in garlic juice inhibits the germination of sporangia (in which the spores develop) and thereby acts as a fungicide. You can buy readymade garlic extracts that are very effective in three ways: as a natural insect repellent, as a fungicide, and plant strengthener. Alternatively, you can make your own juice by using a homemade recipe. Garlic extracts are not suitable for seedlings and should not be applied under direct sunlight.
Garlic GP Ornamental Fungicide is a commercial product available in North America.


To conclude, it's important to note that plant-pathogen interactions are a rapidly developing area among the plant sciences. There are constantly new results being published on this subject. Here a few promising selections of products in ongoing research studies that are easy to purchase:

Silicon: increases plant resistance to pathogenic fungi possibly through an interaction with defence responses. Silicic acid may play a role in systemic resistance. Several organic products are available containing soluble silica such as Humisolve (more info at Fulvic acid is our speciality. We provide top-shelf humic products.), or you can make your own homebrew fertilizer with nettles to treat outdoor plants during growth.
Vitamin B1: induces SAR when applied to vegetable crops and increased resistance to fungal, bacterial and viral infections.
Riboflavin or Vitamin B2: induces systemic resistance on tobacco and could perhaps work with cannabis too.


Preventive Measures

For ensuring plant health any preventive measures can be extremely important. Obviously, it is much better to prevent an infestation from the start — especially when the disease is so aggressive and easily transmitted from plant to plant. These recommendations are based on practical gardening experience from our expert breeders.


choose cannabis strains with a high resistance if you live in an area prone to mildew infestation
ensure a good climate in the greenhouse and indoor (ventilation, electric or gas heating required)
avoid the use of nitrogen-rich manure (like fresh manure or unripe compost), avoid fertilizers high in ammoniacal nitrogen such as pure guano in powder and pellet form
prevent white fly and aphid infestations and treat plants thoroughly if diseased, the sticky secretions from these pests cover the leaves and facilitate mildew which in some cases turns greyish-black
do not grow too close to damp areas (riverside, etc.)
increase the light intensity indoor if you are growing under low-light (such as CFL, fluorescents, LED lamps, etc.)
use garlic teas and garlic sprays
treat plants regularly with lecithin-based sprays
remove or treat all infested weeds and ornamental plants on your property; cut away infested twigs on fruit trees at the earliest signs of infestation
spray down leaves with clean, chlorine-free water if they are covered in pollen after pollinating buds for seeds (wait a few days after pollination is completed), stale pollen residues easily turn moldy under high humidity and attract mildew

Tips for treating mildew

keep enough distance between plants to prevent overcrowding
use nitrogen rich fertilizer only sparingly and when absolutely necessary
separate or isolate infested plants from healthy ones
start treatments on time and repeat them regularly
switch compounds so that no resistance occurs (follow product instructions!)
preventive treatment is important for high risk areas (especially on mother plants, cuttings, young plants)
do not spray outdoor plants during strong sunshine; apply fungicides indoors shortly before the dark period
when using a new or innovative product do a test on one or more plants first to check if the product is plant friendly — this is especially important during flowering to avoid unnecessary damage to the pistils, and for young plants with their tender leaves
Health Warning
Infected leaves or buds should not be smoked or used for cooking!
 
Hey Terry ,By what you are describing I would bet you have a nice healthy Male plant going on up there.look up some pictures of male plants and I bet you will recognize yours.If you want to you could save some pollen for your next crop ...Just in case you want to pollinate a branch or two.You know ,Just to get your own seed bank going...its funny I too have had plants that didn't "Man up" till way late in the season.And yes ...you talk about a good dusting by just touching a branch!! anyway better luck next year and I have met a few folks that swear that you can get a buzz from smokin male plants.so mabey not all is lost.Happy Hemping ,Red. PS Bushman I couldn't get any pictures to show??
 
Novatokeman said:
plants are doing very well they are hidden within a extensive flower garden that is %70 covered in the white powder of death but is less than 1 meter away..... these are the camouflage to the real garden.
i figure i have 3 options
build a small polly greenhouse
leave infected and sprat the fuck outa em with milk n baking soda
remove infected expose garden

any input here would be great
thanks
Click to expand...
Potassium Bicarbonate. It’s not expensive, mix with water at the recommended rate. Kills powdery mildew. But, I think you said you are in flower, and if you just flipped them, hurry up and use the potassium bicarbonate.
 

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