Believe what you want, but it still looks like burn from the h2o2/baking soda spray.
I think the rust hammer hit me
- Thread starter 1337sp33d
- Start date
Mycelium Farmer
Commercial Cultivator
x2 on that thought seeing your most recent pics.
AgedMaster
Well-Known Member
Hi ive been researching this
this is what i found
The fungus feeds on live plant tissue, and the disease gets its name from the powdery red-brown coating it leaves on your fingers when you brush them across an affected leaf.
Different types of rust have different preferred host plants.
A type likely to affect canna plants is borne by a fungal parasite called Puccinia thaliae, formerly known as P. cannae.
It may cause systemic damage, affecting the leaves, stems, and flowers, particularly of some hybrid varieties sold as C. x generalis.
when searching C. x generalis. it came up with sativa cannabis plants this is the name of the rust Puccinia thaliae
An increase in the relative humidity of the air surrounding canna plants, combined with foliage that is wet for extended periods, creates a prime breeding ground for P. thaliae.
Often the first sign that plants are oversaturated is leaf yellowing, or chlorosis.
Here’s the part I find most interesting:
The fungus begins its course of destruction stealthily, under the leaves, often going unnoticed until the infection is severe.
On the undersides of the leaves, there are pores called stomata that allow for the passage of air and water in and out of the plant. It is through these openings that the infection enters plant tissue.
The hungry microorganism begins to nourish itself with the leaf tissue, leaving a trail of telltale blister-like spots, or pustules, that may range in color from yellow to tan, along the veins and midribs.
As the feast continues, the bumps merge into large rusty patches.
At this point, the damage below the surface of the foliage is so great that it becomes evident above. The leaf surface may begin to show blotches of dead, or necrotic brown tissue that eventually breaks, leaving holes where there was once healthy plant tissue.
In extreme infections, the damage may not be contained to the leaves, but may migrate to the stems and flowers, causing discoloration, deterioration, and wilting.
Once rust presents itself, all nearby cannas are vulnerable to its spread, especially if the damp weather persists.
The unfortunate truth about canna rust is that once it rears its ugly head, it’s hard to eradicate.
The first course of action is to remove affected plant material, or to remove entire plants, rhizomes and all, to contain its spread.
Do not place the debris on the compost heap. Dispose of it in the trash, or burn it if you live in a community where incineration of yard waste is permitted, and then dispose of the residue.
You may read that applications of copper-based fungicides can slow the spread of rust. However, in addition to their potential to impair nutrient uptake, the heavy metal is highly toxic and of questionable value in the home garden.
Rust is hard to treat because it can become fungicide-resistant. For this reason, different products are often used in alternating fashion.
One is usually a contact treatment, and the other, a systemic one. However, this process can become quite involved, and is likely to try the patience of the home gardener.
Arbico Organics offers an alternative to copper-based fungicides called CEASE™
here's a picture of a lilly affected i am no expert i just copied that from a website i found i enjoy looking at problems then trying to find a fix so if it ever happened to me i could try do something about it. finally if it dont rub off on your fingers then it is not rust
this is what i found
What Is Rust?
Rust is a type of plant disease spread by fungal spores through air, and sometimes by water.The fungus feeds on live plant tissue, and the disease gets its name from the powdery red-brown coating it leaves on your fingers when you brush them across an affected leaf.
Different types of rust have different preferred host plants.
A type likely to affect canna plants is borne by a fungal parasite called Puccinia thaliae, formerly known as P. cannae.
It may cause systemic damage, affecting the leaves, stems, and flowers, particularly of some hybrid varieties sold as C. x generalis.
when searching C. x generalis. it came up with sativa cannabis plants this is the name of the rust Puccinia thaliae
An increase in the relative humidity of the air surrounding canna plants, combined with foliage that is wet for extended periods, creates a prime breeding ground for P. thaliae.
Often the first sign that plants are oversaturated is leaf yellowing, or chlorosis.
Here’s the part I find most interesting:
The fungus begins its course of destruction stealthily, under the leaves, often going unnoticed until the infection is severe.
On the undersides of the leaves, there are pores called stomata that allow for the passage of air and water in and out of the plant. It is through these openings that the infection enters plant tissue.
The hungry microorganism begins to nourish itself with the leaf tissue, leaving a trail of telltale blister-like spots, or pustules, that may range in color from yellow to tan, along the veins and midribs.
As the feast continues, the bumps merge into large rusty patches.
At this point, the damage below the surface of the foliage is so great that it becomes evident above. The leaf surface may begin to show blotches of dead, or necrotic brown tissue that eventually breaks, leaving holes where there was once healthy plant tissue.
In extreme infections, the damage may not be contained to the leaves, but may migrate to the stems and flowers, causing discoloration, deterioration, and wilting.
Once rust presents itself, all nearby cannas are vulnerable to its spread, especially if the damp weather persists.
The unfortunate truth about canna rust is that once it rears its ugly head, it’s hard to eradicate.
The first course of action is to remove affected plant material, or to remove entire plants, rhizomes and all, to contain its spread.
Do not place the debris on the compost heap. Dispose of it in the trash, or burn it if you live in a community where incineration of yard waste is permitted, and then dispose of the residue.
You may read that applications of copper-based fungicides can slow the spread of rust. However, in addition to their potential to impair nutrient uptake, the heavy metal is highly toxic and of questionable value in the home garden.
Rust is hard to treat because it can become fungicide-resistant. For this reason, different products are often used in alternating fashion.
One is usually a contact treatment, and the other, a systemic one. However, this process can become quite involved, and is likely to try the patience of the home gardener.
Arbico Organics offers an alternative to copper-based fungicides called CEASE™
here's a picture of a lilly affected i am no expert i just copied that from a website i found i enjoy looking at problems then trying to find a fix so if it ever happened to me i could try do something about it. finally if it dont rub off on your fingers then it is not rust
(plain old garden sulfur - most any brand will do) a.k.a. Micronized or wettable sulfur is a plant friendly element thats a preventative for rust, botyritis & pm….. can be mixed with water for foliar spray.
- Thread starter
- #45
1337sp33d
Well-Known Member
What magnification would you say this is?
scientific wild asssed guess but I’m thinking 1000X or better
- Thread starter
- #47
- Thread starter
- #48
1337sp33d
Well-Known Member
I found this "
You should not use burgundy, Bordeaux, traditional copper, or lime sprays on plants once they start flowering. All are protective coating sprays, they remain on the leaf/flower surfaces very long term creating a barrier toxic to fungus spores ie they are a coating that kills the spores on germinating and preventing the hypha from entering the plant. You are fairly safe using protective copper sprays on tomatoes as it's easy to wash the residues off the tomato skin, the same can not be said for cannabis buds, just do not use it in flower.
Micro kill was renamed Citrofresh.
Citrofresh is only effective against some species of fungus.
Spraying plants before infection with Trichoderma may give long-term protection.
Once a plant is infected by some types of leaf spot, rusts, mildew, etc, it spreads internally, then only systemic fungicides ( Controlling rust ) can affect control, pathogenic fungi strains build up resistance to fungicides including systems.
At the present time systems containing myclobutanil and penconazole are still being reported as controlling most types of leaf spots on cannabis.
Are these systemic fungicides safe to use in the flowering period? Can’t fully answer that question.
Systemic fungicides are absorbed by the plant leaf tissue and circulate to every part of the plant internally, although it slowly degrades and is metabolized it remains effective for 10 to 14 days in the sap stream, even when the levels have dropped so it is no longer effective against invading fungi, there will still be small residuals. " not sure if it is true as I also found people say sulfur adds a good flavor to buds . I mixed a solution of Bordeaux mixture and the ph is 12.0 and I do feel it would not be wise to get copper on the flowers of the Auto Blue Dream which I am trying to nurse along as there are zero amber trichomes sure would be great if a researcher or horticulturist chimes in. I am on a real low budget and this has been the cause of death for several plants.
You should not use burgundy, Bordeaux, traditional copper, or lime sprays on plants once they start flowering. All are protective coating sprays, they remain on the leaf/flower surfaces very long term creating a barrier toxic to fungus spores ie they are a coating that kills the spores on germinating and preventing the hypha from entering the plant. You are fairly safe using protective copper sprays on tomatoes as it's easy to wash the residues off the tomato skin, the same can not be said for cannabis buds, just do not use it in flower.
Micro kill was renamed Citrofresh.
Citrofresh is only effective against some species of fungus.
Spraying plants before infection with Trichoderma may give long-term protection.
Once a plant is infected by some types of leaf spot, rusts, mildew, etc, it spreads internally, then only systemic fungicides ( Controlling rust ) can affect control, pathogenic fungi strains build up resistance to fungicides including systems.
At the present time systems containing myclobutanil and penconazole are still being reported as controlling most types of leaf spots on cannabis.
Are these systemic fungicides safe to use in the flowering period? Can’t fully answer that question.
Systemic fungicides are absorbed by the plant leaf tissue and circulate to every part of the plant internally, although it slowly degrades and is metabolized it remains effective for 10 to 14 days in the sap stream, even when the levels have dropped so it is no longer effective against invading fungi, there will still be small residuals. " not sure if it is true as I also found people say sulfur adds a good flavor to buds . I mixed a solution of Bordeaux mixture and the ph is 12.0 and I do feel it would not be wise to get copper on the flowers of the Auto Blue Dream which I am trying to nurse along as there are zero amber trichomes sure would be great if a researcher or horticulturist chimes in. I am on a real low budget and this has been the cause of death for several plants.