What The Good Growers Already Know: Top 5 Lessons For New Growers

How can I build a activated carbon filter for my cfi 8in fan?

kingchief

You can also buy Activated Carbon on feeBay cheap. Build a box with a labrynith in it, that is, make pathways that take and force the air to circulate back and forth by dividing the space into 3-4 "hallways" kinda' like the chambers in an auto muffler. Can put like 50 lbs. in the box depending on size. I built one for under $50.00 and some plywood I had laying around. Worked quite well for 4 grows, over a years worth of odor control, and all I had to do was drain the used charcoal out and re-fill it (cheap again) for another year...
 
One thing I think is important, as crazy as it sounds is good karma, don't go into a grow site and cut trees out of the way don't litter in the waterways or on the soil even if its something small like a gum rapper or a cigarette butt. Even though the soil at home depot may be un supervised and out in the open, don't steal it. When getting to a grow site don't tear the road all up getting there. Things like these I feel will end up biting you in the ass later on. And right now, more than ever its so important that us as growers remain setting as good of an example as ever, because marijuana laws are changing after decades of opression and we need to show them that this isn't just a bunch of outlaws and savages out doing this anymore. This is an ever growing group of people that truly recognise the mecical benefits cannabis has to offer this world
 
Always good info on this site. Learn something new every time i`m on it. Finally ready to start my first indoor grow. Have to sprout seeds, can`t find any clones here. Couple of small outdoor grows turned out ok. Looking to improve quality.
 
There are several good brands out there, so I'd just stay away from the cheap ones, since PH control is so important.

The one I use is a Hanna 98130 which measure PH, EC, and TDS.

I believe some other good brands include Oakton, Milwaukee, & some others.
:goodluck:

Hello growers.
My name is Simon and I write from Italy.
I am new to this forum.
I was following your discussion on the pH and EC.
I have had problems with overfertilizzazione, I think to buy a meter for EC and pH e 'cause I use the maps to measure the pH.
But my question, and ': when the pH is measured? In the water, or in the water there are already 'the nutrients?
Or do I measure the pH with the probe in the soil of the pot?
And for the measurement of EC?
Thank you and answer sperandop I salute you.
Simon from Italy.
 
just one more thing, mr krip, don't LOVE u're plants to DEATH! leave 'em alone, they've been growing for thousands of years all by themselves. just a thought.
 
easy way to make best hash out of flower trim !!!!! IT WORKS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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:420:HAVE FUN , ALWAYS KEEP IT SIMPLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:420::thanks:
 
Hello growers.
My name is Simon and I write from Italy.
I am new to this forum.
I was following your discussion on the pH and EC.
I have had problems with overfertilizzazione, I think to buy a meter for EC and pH e 'cause I use the maps to measure the pH.
But my question, and ': when the pH is measured? In the water, or in the water there are already 'the nutrients?
Or do I measure the pH with the probe in the soil of the pot?
And for the measurement of EC?
Thank you and answer sperandop I salute you.
Simon from Italy.

Hello simon,

Use your ph meter for mesuring the water you will put in your plant. It must be at 6.5 for soil give or take .5 and for the ec, switch you ec meter to ppm for better reading since we all use ppm units and keep it to 400-800 for veg and more like 800-1400 in flowering, but dont forget to listen to your plants and if you fertilize too much, flush them with 3 times the amount of water that your pot will contain, wich means 3 gallons pots:9 gallons of ph'ed water. You can then use your ec meter after this in the run off water of your pot to see the difference of the in and out...see?
 
:welldone:
I recently posted this in my grow journal, and its received some good response, so I thought I'd post it here also...

___________________________________________________

WHAT THE GOOD GROWERS ALREADY KNOW

Now that I've finished harvesting my first two plants, I thought I'd share my "Top 5 Tips for New Growers".

I hope this will help others out there, especially the newer growers, who are being bombarded with all kinds of new and different information and having to try to figure out what's worth remembering.

Here's the stuff to remember! :)

1) As far as soil or hydro, which brand of nutes, which type of lights (LED, CFL, MH, HPS, T5, etc.), what's the best way to train (FIM, Top, LST, SCROG, etc.), and other questions related to technique - The "best method" is the one(s) that work for you! Different growers have different styles of growing and where one method, or nute regime, works great for one grower, another may have better success with something different. Opposing methods are not something to argue over, they are something to learn from. The more techniques you learn, the more you can experiment with to find the method that works best for you.

2) The plant is a living organism that will do its best to survive and thrive like any other living organism. That means, as growers, our plants don't die. WE kill them! We do this by NOT giving them what they need to survive. They need water, light, air, nutrients, and a favorable climate. If we can provide these, the plants repay us for it with bountiful harvests of great meds! :grinjoint:

3) Before you start worrying about spending lots of money on nutes, put your money into providing a good environment for your plants. Proper lighting, ventillation, humidity, and temperatures will do more for maintaining healthy plants than any nutes you'll find. I'd rather grow with lower quality nutes in a good environment than try to make a go using the best nutes in a bad environment.

4) Part of maintaining the right environment MUST include PH. Once again, it doesn't matter how good your nutes are (or how good you think they are!), if the PH is out of range, the nutrients may not be able to be absorbed by the plants. Often I'll see growers who have a perfectly sound nute regime identify a deficiency and then try to make up for it by simply adding more nutes and never checking/adjustig PH. Then they say something like, "geez...I'm giving the plant tons of phosphorous but she's still showing a phosphorous deficiency!" Well, before you give the plant more Phosphorous, you should ask yourself, "why, if I'm on a sound nute regime, is the plant showing a P deficiency?" The answer will most likely be related to PH or other environmental factors and NOT the lack of Phosphorous in the nutes.

5) Listen to the plants! I had numerous growers tell me to do this before I really understood what it meant. It's not only being able to look at the plants to identify a specific issue, or when to harvest, but on it's most basic level, it's to determine that you have an issue before it becomes a BIG issue. For example, if you walk in your growroom and see your plants looking a little droopy, don't think "Well, I'll just give it another day and see if it gets any worse". It will! Your plants are telling you there's SOME issue...maybe overwatering, maybe underwatering, maybe temps, RH, or something else, but don't expect it to get better unless and until YOU make some adjustments!

Happy Harvests!

K
 
What's the best way to keep the humidity down when the lights go off,thanks,them 5 steps are the best advice I've seen on here
 
Personally, my PH tends to go up over time (using hydro), so I like to set it to the low end of the scale then let it drift up to the higher end, then adjust it back down. That way, the plant can absorb nutrients at the widest range.[/QUOTE]:thumb:

I agree totally with this. I grow Hydro and if you try 'chasing the PH' you'll have to live & sleep with the plants.
I write PH down every morning, then every evening when I check I make corrections if necessary, but never more than once a day or you'll be chasing your tail.
 
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