What deficiency is this?

[lilnug420]

Just out of curiosity.
My apologies if you said this already.
In soil I feel dry a little water dry a bit feed a little dry water etc.
Is this how your feeding.
I'm using 1 gm per litre of mc and .5 ml per liter of Remo flower.
Girls love it.
Also calmag every feed and a little B1.




#VIVOSUN #Love What You Grow
Bill284

In the summer i do wet/dry cycles when watering, right not I don't saturate completely as i found they take wayy to much to dry if the soil is saturated when it gets cold, so before i would water 30L per 2 plants, right now 15/20L per watering

 

[Porky82]

Im already at around 6g/gal a gal is 3.7 liters ish no? So im pretty close to that at 6.5g/5L

Thing is, the plant next to the one with the issue in the picture, doesn't quite have so much yellowing, i will attach pics, i always have had this issue with MC, i always get to harvest with very nice smoke, but perhaps avoiding all that yellowing would give me even greater smoke.


I did a flush last night, and after watered with a little more than 13g/10L


still unsure what to do next

Just wait and see if they improve is really all you can do at this stage.

 

[lilnug420]

1.3/L seems low but I mostly grow clones and find them to be a little more hungry than usual, even during veg.
I pretty much feed 1.5/L from start to finish and looking at the MC chart I think that's around where you should be.
I don't really bother going any higher. I rarely add any calmag now as I think I've locked out magnesium because of it. K def seems unusual tbh. Honestly, doesn't help that GL keeps changing their formula.

i usually followed the MC calculator, this year in flower i tried going a bit lower than what they reccomend at 1.6 to see if i didn't get yellow leaves, but i still did so idk

the other thing that i think should be considered, in veg when it's summer i'm watering MUCH MUCH more as it's crazy hot here, and everytime i water it's always fertilized water at 1.3/l ISH

right now i don't water as often as it's colder and they drink less, does that mean they're also getting less nutrients as i'm watering less often?

 

[Regrowth]

any chance that u bought the two part version and only the nitrogen part?

 

[lilnug420]

Just wait and see if they improve is really all you can do at this stage.

Well they decently wont as I've had this issue every year with MC that's why im trying to find a solution, there must be a best course of action to take here...

I already flushed, now i just have to decide if to up the nutes or keep them the same

 

[lilnug420]

any chance that u bought the two part version and only the nitrogen part?

No i use MC one part, another thing, the only time i got zero deficiencies with MC was when i used it indoors for an autoflower and folllowed MC reccomentations as usual. I got a very big harvest for my shitty setup (cheap blurple 100w) and i got around 120g from a 2 month autoflower, very good smoke too and almost zero yellow leaves

 

[Porky82]

Well they decently wont as I've had this issue every year with MC that's why im trying to find a solution, there must be a best course of action to take here...

I already flushed, now i just have to decide if to up the nutes or keep them the same

Personally from what you've said and the pics I think it's over fed! I would back off the feeds to every 3rd water for a week or more and see if it improves. At this stage of life I would also be upping PK slightly.

 

[lilnug420]

Personally from what you've said and the pics I think it's over fed! I would back off the feeds to every 3rd water for a week or more and see if it improves. At this stage of life I would also be upping PK slightly.

Does overfeeding and underfeeding look exactly the same? With all the years of growing, has no one figured out a way to tell for sure which it is? I hate guessing!

I've also read most.people never had a lockout or burn with MC so it would be weird that i do with how much I'm feeding

 

[Regrowth]

The way some leaves are clawing and yellowing, it kind of looks like variegation,
which is a genetic trait a bit comparable to partial albinism. Also funny enough,
some of variegated plants I've seen seem to have the K like deficiencies.
When you say it's something that's happened before, were you growing the same strain?

 

[SmokingWings]

Im only running MC, should i try to just up the dose?

I do not think it will work since the Mega Crop is a fixed amount of each nutrient. If you up the dose to get more Potassium to the plants then the Nitrogen and everything else is also upped. If you want to try to track down what is happening then the best thing is to continue to follow the MC dosage found in the schedule and use a stand alone product to test for other possible deficiencies.

It sounds like you believe that you have the Nitrogen (N) under control so go to the Phosphorous (P) or Potassium (K) next. If it was me I would be looking at the Potassium next but it is up to you. There is a good chance that by the time you think that you are on the right track you will be harvesting already. .

Keeping in mind that your plants are nice and large and well into flower most changes will not fix the problems. I look for the problems to stop getting worse and accept that any damage done to the leaves will not go away. Then the next grow try again and start to look for when to make the changes in fertilizer to keep the problem from starting.

 

[SmokingWings]

Terra canna pro soil
.....
Ph adjusted to around 6

Forgot about something yesterday. I do not know if you have already done it and I doubt that it will make much difference at this point with this grow but maybe look through the cannagardening.com web site for the best pH to use with the Canna Terra Pro mix. Or maybe it is mentioned on the bag.

The "Terra canna pro soil" is not what some of us would consider a true soil mix since it is mostly two different types of peat moss mixed together and then some Perlite added. It does not seem to have any compost or wormcastings or other usual soils or soil ingredients added; at least I did not notice anything other the peat and Perlite mentioned in the list of ingredients.

Any thoughts @Emilya Green ?

I believe that Emilya has not been around in a couple of weeks and has not posted in a month; miss her input.

 

[lilnug420]

I do not think it will work since the Mega Crop is a fixed amount of each nutrient. If you up the dose to get more Potassium to the plants then the Nitrogen and everything else is also upped. If you want to try to track down what is happening then the best thing is to continue to follow the MC dosage found in the schedule and use a stand alone product to test for other possible deficiencies.

It sounds like you believe that you have the Nitrogen (N) under control so go to the Phosphorous (P) or Potassium (K) next. If it was me I would be looking at the Potassium next but it is up to you. There is a good chance that by the time you think that you are on the right track you will be harvesting already. .

Keeping in mind that your plants are nice and large and well into flower most changes will not fix the problems. I look for the problems to stop getting worse and accept that any damage done to the leaves will not go away. Then the next grow try again and start to look for when to make the changes in fertilizer to keep the problem from starting.

But the issue is that it only shows up in flower, and by the time i make a change it takes weeks to see if it was effective and as you say I'll be harvesting already...


I was thinking about getting GL's pk booster next year

 

[lilnug420]

Forgot about something yesterday. I do not know if you have already done it and I doubt that it will make much difference at this point with this grow but maybe look through the cannagardening.com web site for the best pH to use with the Canna Terra Pro mix. Or maybe it is mentioned on the bag.

The "Terra canna pro soil" is not what some of us would consider a true soil mix since it is mostly two different types of peat moss mixed together and then some Perlite added. It does not seem to have any compost or wormcastings or other usual soils or soil ingredients added; at least I did not notice anything other the peat and Perlite mentioned in the list of ingredients.


I believe that Emilya has not been around in a couple of weeks and has not posted in a month; miss her input.

Canna reccomends watering at around 5.8 if memory serves me right.

Hope emilya is ok!


Maybe i should try to change media next year, what do you recommend for mega crop? Bio bizz light mix? Mills nutrients?

 

[Wastei]

Fem plant

10 Gal pot
Terra canna pro soil
Mega crop fertilizer
Ph adjusted to around 6
About a month away from harvest


I Always get these weird deficiencies in flower, where as in veg they're all nice and green, doesn't seem to affect yield and quality, but im wondering what it is.


Upping the dose of MC hasn't worked in the past so this year I'm sticking to MC calculator reccomentations

If you're using the MC calculator indoors or in containers you're overfeeding. Buy a ppm / EC meter. The calculator is for field application.

You're probably treating coir like soil with dry backs that will even worsen the problem with regular high EC spikes and pH crashes causing nutrient lockouts. Coir is hydro and should be treated as such with daily feedings to 10-20% runoff with no dry backs.

Cheers!

 

[SmokingWings]

You're probably treating coir like soil with dry backs

Except that the Terra canna pro soil mix is a mix of two different types of peat moss and then some Perlite thrown in. It will behave differently than a coco coir based mix if it is dried out.

Referring to it as "dry backs" is an interesting term. I like it..

 

[Wastei]

Except that the Terra canna pro soil mix is a mix of two different types of peat moss and then some Perlite thrown in. It will behave differently than a coco coir based mix if it is dried out.

Referring to it as "dry backs" is an interesting term. I like it..

Yeah peat and coir behave slightly different but you should treat them fairly the same. You can feed coir more often because the higher cation exchange action of coir, the ability to hold and release minerals.

"Dry backs" is however a big problem in both styles of growing. The difference between soil and soilless is hard for newcomers to grasp starting out. Cheers!

 

[SmokingWings]

But the issue is that it only shows up in flower, and by the time i make a change it takes weeks to see if it was effective and as you say I'll be harvesting already...

This grow you can consider adding both some Phosphorous and some Potassium if you want. Then if the signs of the problem stop increasing you have an idea of what to start using the next grow. Instead of waiting you start using then as soon as the problem shows and see what happens. Kind of a "shotgun" or "throw everything at the problem" approach.

The MC does get a lot of praise for its ease of use with just an occasional problem showing up. Once you get an idea of what to do about your plants you could start to use the MC at the flowering doses as soon as the light schedule is changed or as soon as the stigma/pistils show on an Auto-flower.

Thing is, the better the grow the larger the plant and the buds. Then the larger the plant the more it demands from the soil and any fertilizers being used. When we figure out what and how much to use to take care of any deficiencies the larger the plant grows. It becomes that famous vicious cycle.

Maybe i should try to change media next year, what do you recommend for mega crop?

Best thing is to post a msg in Frequently Asked Questions forum. Ask for the best organic type of mix or best coco coir based or peat moss based or hydro or whatever method/style you feel comfortable with. If you do not want to mix anything up yourself then mention "a store bought mix".

 

[lilnug420]

If you're using the MC calculator indoors or in containers you're overfeeding. Buy a ppm / EC meter. The calculator is for field application.

You're probably treating coir like soil with dry backs that will even worsen the problem with regular high EC spikes and pH crashes causing nutrient lockouts. Coir is hydro and should be treated as such with daily feedings to 10-20% runoff with no dry backs.

Cheers!

I see, I'm not indoors, but outdoors in containers, i do up pot so they aren't rootbound

About dry/wet cycles, I've always done them using this mix and had great results, indoors i with an auto i fed as per MC calculator and did wet/dry cycles and had great results, so I don't think thats an issue.

Would switching to soil benefit me? I've heard that mixes like this with peatmoss and stuff produce larger yields compared to soil

 

[lilnug420]

Yeah peat and coir behave slightly different but you should treat them fairly the same. You can feed coir more often because the higher cation exchange action of coir, the ability to hold and release minerals.

"Dry backs" is however a big problem in both styles of growing. The difference between soil and soilless is hard for newcomers to grasp starting out. Cheers!

I never fully grasped the pros and cons of soil vs soiless. It would be nice if you can enlighten me as searching online gives me more questions then Answers


For a grower like me, outdoors, with megacrop,

Going for the highest yields, and wanting as little work as possible around the plants,

I just wanna train my plants, water them with ph adjusted water and that's it, none of that fancy stuff that requires lots time.

Do you think soil would be more suited for me? What pros and cons will i have from switching to soil?


About drying out this mix, are you 100% sure it's bad? I've always done it and never had issues, as per @Emilya Green guide on how to water. I tho that was the way to go, and it seems to have worked well for me I've always developed very strong roots

 

[lilnug420]

This grow you can consider adding both some Phosphorous and some Potassium if you want. Then if the signs of the problem stop increasing you have an idea of what to start using the next grow. Instead of waiting you start using then as soon as the problem shows and see what happens. Kind of a "shotgun" or "throw everything at the problem" approach.

The MC does get a lot of praise for its ease of use with just an occasional problem showing up. Once you get an idea of what to do about your plants you could start to use the MC at the flowering doses as soon as the light schedule is changed or as soon as the stigma/pistils show on an Auto-flower.

Thing is, the better the grow the larger the plant and the buds. Then the larger the plant the more it demands from the soil and any fertilizers being used. When we figure out what and how much to use to take care of any deficiencies the larger the plant grows. It becomes that famous vicious cycle.


Best thing is to post a msg in Frequently Asked Questions forum. Ask for the best organic type of mix or best coco coir based or peat moss based or hydro or whatever method/style you feel comfortable with. If you do not want to mix anything up yourself then mention "a store bought mix".

My other plant which has been growing side by side with the one i posted pics of has much less yellow leaves, and is also larger by a bit (i pruned it less)


So considering the larger plant shows less issues, can i assume by this that it's a lockout/ overfeeding issue?

One thing to note tho, the one showing issues started flowering about 1-2 weeks more early as its a different strain, not sure if that plays a role in it.


But they both show issues, just not to the same extent, i will post clealer pics of the other plant too maybe that can help to as i think i light see some signs of N toxicity but im not sure.