What are good ppm ranges to stay within?
- Thread starter THConnoisseur
- Start date
I start with 600 PPm for week 1
900 PPm for week 2
1200 PPm for week 3
if you go over 3 weeks veg
1500 PPM week 4
1800 PPM week 5 and hold there
at bloom I flush and go to 1000 PPM week1
1300 ppm week 2
1600 PPM week 3
1900 PPM week 4
flush weekly.....VERY IMPOTANT
and hold there until last 2 weeks and ad your bloom enhancers if your using them
this is double secret probation info..
Bloody hell that's way to much PPM...
@ Growgaffa...
The question is based of a massive misunderstanding of how hydro works...so all you can get for direct answers to the question is garbage.
It is much better to try to explain to people why this question is bogus then to try and answer it...but it is from 6 years ago so shouldn't be a problem now LOL.
The question is based of a massive misunderstanding of how hydro works...so all you can get for direct answers to the question is garbage.
It is much better to try to explain to people why this question is bogus then to try and answer it...but it is from 6 years ago so shouldn't be a problem now LOL.
ReckoningBomb
New Member
I would like to offer a ppm chart as a rule of thumb or ball park target ppm, but each grow or garden is going to be different.
These numbers are based on EC readings, .500 readings, TDS readings converted from EC or the common Hannah Chart:
Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250
Early Vegging 300 to 400
Full Vegetation 450 to 700
Early Blooming 750 to 950
Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600
(this excludes the ppm of your water)
Bingo what this person is correct.. Start off slow and always with the lower end of the ppm chart. You'll be safe and feed on the low side of the ppm
Agreed. Listen to your plants & tweak accordingly: PH up & PPM down = feed. PH & PPM stable = happy plants. PH down & PPM Up = too strong (add PH'd water). Too many variables for a chart to be useful.
NOTE: The PPM's listed above will burn the hell of most plants. Start low & tweak gradually. You cannot unburn leaf.
NOTE: The PPM's listed above will burn the hell of most plants. Start low & tweak gradually. You cannot unburn leaf.
not outdoors with soil in large pots its not.
Scientific
New Member
> flush weekly.....VERY IMPOTANT
> Either used for oxygenation, or for pathogen destruction and prevention, or as a cleaning agent, H2O2 fills all these rolls and more, with aplomb.
LOL. I love watching how folklore develops and flourishes in the absence of scientific rigor.
C'mon kids, you don't gotta give your plant a weekly enema, and you don't gotta give it daily doses of hair bleach, either.
And if you're paying $200 for a dozen bottles of magic with kewl names and images of skulls and girls with big boobs selected by marketers to separate young men from their money, well, what the hell if it makes you happy, but your money's better spent elsewhere.
Remember that pot can grow pretty darn well with just cowshit, sunshine, and rainwater.
Stepping off my soap box now. Happy growing.
> Either used for oxygenation, or for pathogen destruction and prevention, or as a cleaning agent, H2O2 fills all these rolls and more, with aplomb.
LOL. I love watching how folklore develops and flourishes in the absence of scientific rigor.
C'mon kids, you don't gotta give your plant a weekly enema, and you don't gotta give it daily doses of hair bleach, either.
And if you're paying $200 for a dozen bottles of magic with kewl names and images of skulls and girls with big boobs selected by marketers to separate young men from their money, well, what the hell if it makes you happy, but your money's better spent elsewhere.
Remember that pot can grow pretty darn well with just cowshit, sunshine, and rainwater.
Stepping off my soap box now. Happy growing.
Scientific
New Member
It is much better to try to explain to people why this question is bogus then to try and answer it...but it is from 6 years ago so shouldn't be a problem now LOL.
Ha! You're right! Talk about a zombie thread... (And even VilliageIdiot's response is going on two years old.)
Just enquiring
about your ppm figures. Are those derived using plain tap water or reverse osmosis water.I start with 600 PPm for week 1
900 PPm for week 2
1200 PPm for week 3
if you go over 3 weeks veg
1500 PPM week 4
1800 PPM week 5 and hold there
at bloom I flush and go to 1000 PPM week1
1300 ppm week 2
1600 PPM week 3
1900 PPM week 4
flush weekly.....VERY IMPOTANT
and hold there until last 2 weeks and ad your bloom enhancers if your using them
this is double secret probation info..
Hey since this Zombie poked up again ... no shit man I have run hydro as you stated only on cow shit. I do all natural worm casting tea that is full flavored and I tweak it per weak and use no chemicals and grow hydro on shit and have no need to monitor PPM at all. If you run a live tank it takes care of itself and none of this horse shit matters.
If you want to grow proper in either soil or Hydro learn to run teas and run a live system and forget about all your problems.
If you want to grow proper in either soil or Hydro learn to run teas and run a live system and forget about all your problems.
I'm having trouble understanding the conversion.
I have an HM Digital meter from Amazon and their website says "EC-to-TDS Conversion Factor: NaCl (avg. 0.5)" but I am unsure how to compare it to the chart that Tulip posted.
I don't think I really need it as long as I keep using the same meter, but I'd also like to get a firmer understanding if I could.
I have an HM Digital meter from Amazon and their website says "EC-to-TDS Conversion Factor: NaCl (avg. 0.5)" but I am unsure how to compare it to the chart that Tulip posted.
I don't think I really need it as long as I keep using the same meter, but I'd also like to get a firmer understanding if I could.
The point is the question is meaningless...if you understand hydro.
People ask this question all the time because they are too lazy to understand nutrient and pH cycling and how both go up and down constantly in a cycle.
People want a recipe which doesn't work for a lot of reasons...again lots of reading to be done.
People who ask this question have not gotten very far in hydro and do not understand how plants work.
There is no number and any number I have in my grow space wont for you.
This is a bogus question.
People ask this question all the time because they are too lazy to understand nutrient and pH cycling and how both go up and down constantly in a cycle.
People want a recipe which doesn't work for a lot of reasons...again lots of reading to be done.
People who ask this question have not gotten very far in hydro and do not understand how plants work.
There is no number and any number I have in my grow space wont for you.
This is a bogus question.
If you think the question is meaningless, it is an issue with your inability to figure out a reason for asking it.
If you grow the same strain 100 times and have your process down with notes galore, but decide to switch meters, what good were those notes?
Why would anyone write anything down if all they're doing is basing their actions on what their plants are currently doing?
Why would anyone have gathered enough knowledge to share to you?
I have shared many times. There are many journals on here which explain it. This thread is years old and it should be shut down. People need to be driven away from this madness as soon as possible...it happens naturally after a few runs but some people fight hydro a long time. Or they are not too stubborn they learn all of this eventually and throw numbers away.
It isn't that I don't understand the question. It's that the question is based on a total lack of understanding of horticulture. Skipping steps A through P and starting at Q and being like... why doesn't this work?
Well go get a book about photosynthesis.
I can explain it again and again...and again. But you could look up pH cycling in Hydro and learn how the PPM controls the pH in a stable system.
In a stable hydro you dont need to flush. Depending on method you just feed what the nutrient soup in your res tells you the plant wants. Top off every few days...nothing more to it really.
By monitoring the res levels, pH and PPM the plant tells you what to add and how fast.
You do not want to fight the plant. You do not want to overfeed, that causes a pile of problems. You feed what the plant can take.
Furthermore unless you are a pro with a serrious house ( and know all of this so are not reading this) your grow room is likeley unstable and will not have the same environment grow to grow...there are many more factors than one appreciates.
All of this is written down by many people.
Multiple newbs I walked them through the process day by day in their journals because they deserve to learn.
But understanding that the numbers are bogus and the res values tell you everything is the first thing you have to overcome to becoming a real hydro grower.
Wanting to follow a regimen goes against nature and how the plant wants to thrive. It is hard for many people to appreciate that they do not have the control they think they do....over humidity, barameteic pressure, CO2, the list goes on....
But the real deal is in a grow thing happen and you rarely can run a schedule as easily as just topping it off correctly.
In a few days I will look up an old journal from years ago. I taught this guys and he did like 3 journals before he was comfortable. If you read what he went through...he listened and followed what I said and it all works. You just read the res and it tells you what to feed.
Easier than some book of numbers by far.
I will.find his journals and post them. I think his handle was @clossetcase420 or something like that.
Anyway get a pen and understand what happens in roots when the plant is rejecting unbalanced or overfeeding.
It isn't that I don't understand the question. It's that the question is based on a total lack of understanding of horticulture. Skipping steps A through P and starting at Q and being like... why doesn't this work?
Well go get a book about photosynthesis.
I can explain it again and again...and again. But you could look up pH cycling in Hydro and learn how the PPM controls the pH in a stable system.
In a stable hydro you dont need to flush. Depending on method you just feed what the nutrient soup in your res tells you the plant wants. Top off every few days...nothing more to it really.
By monitoring the res levels, pH and PPM the plant tells you what to add and how fast.
You do not want to fight the plant. You do not want to overfeed, that causes a pile of problems. You feed what the plant can take.
Furthermore unless you are a pro with a serrious house ( and know all of this so are not reading this) your grow room is likeley unstable and will not have the same environment grow to grow...there are many more factors than one appreciates.
All of this is written down by many people.
Multiple newbs I walked them through the process day by day in their journals because they deserve to learn.
But understanding that the numbers are bogus and the res values tell you everything is the first thing you have to overcome to becoming a real hydro grower.
Wanting to follow a regimen goes against nature and how the plant wants to thrive. It is hard for many people to appreciate that they do not have the control they think they do....over humidity, barameteic pressure, CO2, the list goes on....
But the real deal is in a grow thing happen and you rarely can run a schedule as easily as just topping it off correctly.
In a few days I will look up an old journal from years ago. I taught this guys and he did like 3 journals before he was comfortable. If you read what he went through...he listened and followed what I said and it all works. You just read the res and it tells you what to feed.
Easier than some book of numbers by far.
I will.find his journals and post them. I think his handle was @clossetcase420 or something like that.
Anyway get a pen and understand what happens in roots when the plant is rejecting unbalanced or overfeeding.
Specifically...I may flush the res when I want to shock the plant with a major change like using only sugar going into the harvest night...but other than that...if you understand hydro, you need not flush you just top off. That means you are mixing and you have to do that math.
Res is 26 gallons...at 800ppm I am adding 5 gallons and she is begging me to up it so I add it at 850 or 900 ppm and the res is happy...or vice versa...she tells you what she wants.
Run a stable live res and it just works.
Res is 26 gallons...at 800ppm I am adding 5 gallons and she is begging me to up it so I add it at 850 or 900 ppm and the res is happy...or vice versa...she tells you what she wants.
Run a stable live res and it just works.
You wrote an awful lot of nonsense just now and still didn't manage to answer an incredibly simple question regarding conversions and nothing more.
You learned what you have with the help of people like me who are curious to learn and not just do what they are told works along with some experiences of your own.
I don't doubt that reading changes is the way to go with hydro, that's the purpose of it for me, but to call a question about CONVERSIONS "madness", "meaningless", or "bogus" just shows how stubborn you are (then again, it's right in your name).
Sometimes you gotta fail in order to succeed. All I wanted was information.
You learned what you have with the help of people like me who are curious to learn and not just do what they are told works along with some experiences of your own.
I don't doubt that reading changes is the way to go with hydro, that's the purpose of it for me, but to call a question about CONVERSIONS "madness", "meaningless", or "bogus" just shows how stubborn you are (then again, it's right in your name).
Sometimes you gotta fail in order to succeed. All I wanted was information.
Since that guy is both pissed about this thread as well as knowledge being shared, here is what I've found.
NaCl is a conversion factor based on Sodium Chloride (regular table salt.). The conversion factor range is 0.47 to 0.5.
The "EC-to-TDS Conversion Factor: NaCl (avg. 0.5) " from my meter shows that it is part of the "Hanna" group in the PPM conversion chart or what many just call a "500 scale" meter.
Source:
Just 4 Growers: Global Garden Community
NaCl is a conversion factor based on Sodium Chloride (regular table salt.). The conversion factor range is 0.47 to 0.5.
The "EC-to-TDS Conversion Factor: NaCl (avg. 0.5) " from my meter shows that it is part of the "Hanna" group in the PPM conversion chart or what many just call a "500 scale" meter.
Source:
Just 4 Growers: Global Garden Community
If you made it this far into this thread...
Here is a journal by a newb. I walk him through exactly how to control pH by propper PPM balance.
ClosetCase420's - RDWC - 600W MH/HPS - Wonder Woman - Grow Journal - 2015
Other nonsense gibberish is hogwash.
People think they are doing things they are not. This is horticultural and science has proven how this works.
Running a numbers schedual is something fertilizer companies want you to think is needed. Use a green thumb and learn how this actually works.
What you do is measure the res and compare to yesterday and then make an adjustment.
There is no following a schedule for optimal performance.
For example I run 35 gallon totes between 28and 32ish gallons. When it drops to 28 I dump in a 5 gallon bucket roughly of tea I brew. The next day it is down 2 gallons. Then I top off again.
There are no fixed numbers.
Here is a journal by a newb. I walk him through exactly how to control pH by propper PPM balance.
ClosetCase420's - RDWC - 600W MH/HPS - Wonder Woman - Grow Journal - 2015
Other nonsense gibberish is hogwash.
People think they are doing things they are not. This is horticultural and science has proven how this works.
Running a numbers schedual is something fertilizer companies want you to think is needed. Use a green thumb and learn how this actually works.
What you do is measure the res and compare to yesterday and then make an adjustment.
There is no following a schedule for optimal performance.
For example I run 35 gallon totes between 28and 32ish gallons. When it drops to 28 I dump in a 5 gallon bucket roughly of tea I brew. The next day it is down 2 gallons. Then I top off again.
There are no fixed numbers.
Flush weekly right, so inbetween each increase in ppm you do a flush?