Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

UPDATE TIME!

This baby is Narcotic Kush Auto. She is a free seed from Gorilla.

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Dinafem Critical +
She's starting to get bigger buds!

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Dutch Passion Durban Poison

She's quite tall! I just love how she's the first one auto I see when I walk into the veg room.

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Heavyweight Wipeout Express Auto

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The 3 auto girls in flower

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My girl Green Crack Auto Shante!

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Dark Devil Auto in the house!

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Heavyweight Fast and Vast Auto

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Twinkees!

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Whew! Got those up just in time. We aim to please! Have a great rest of the day everybody! :passitleft:

Almost forgot these! Thanks to SweetSue, I have this recipe. I really really really want to try one, but it would be nice of me to wait until my love gets home from working his tail off today. I think I'll wait to enjoy it with him. Everything is better when he's around. :Love:

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I thought this a joke about the north pole to match Arctic Bowl with the North Pole. Now I feel dumb. Anyway I just had a question about compost tea. Is it mixing partially composted material in your pile then mixing it in a container with water or should it be completed composted?

Ok, we have a worm composter. The worms and little organisms break down the food by eating it and turn it into castings. In that process, the liquid goes to the bottom of the composter and then can be drained through a spout. That's the compost/worm tea.

Now that we are going to high brix, we can't use that tea or EWC. We use the tea that comes with the kit, and buy castings. What we have isn't compatible with the high brix.

What we will do with the castings and tea, is use it in our veggie garden.

Thanks for asking that. I hope I answered what you asked, if not ask more. Lol!

:passitleft:

All I have is a giant pile of compost that I keep turning over and eventually get the broken down soil. To do what you are saying is i would have to build something off the ground to contain the fluid so I can drain the bottom reservoir of the composter. That would be my team? Maybe worm composting would be easier.

I'm pretty sure you can use that compost you have to "brew" tea. Not sure how it's done though. Trying to think if I follow an organic garden, but I'm drawing a blank. See if you can find one of the organic growers that could share an organic tea recipe with you.

I think it involves a bin of water, and a pillowcase with the compost and other additions. Then brew it for x amt of time. I think there is a bubbler in it to keep the water from getting stagnant

You can make compost tea with plain compost, vermicompost, worm castings, or any combination of the three. In all three cases, the idea is the same, which is to breed the microbes before spraying on your plants and/or adding to the soil.

The compost/castings have microbes that break down the components in the soil to help feed the plant and, when you colonize with the good microbes, the "bad" microbes (like PM, pythium, etc.) have a much more difficult time colonizing.

The way I "brew" a compost tea is to take a couple/few handfuls of compost (of any/every type I have!) and put it into a paint straining bag. I hang that bag in a 5 gallon bucket of DE-CHLORINATED water with an airpump and airstone in the bucket, and let it bubble for 24-48 hours.

I add balckstrap molasses to the mixture to help feed the microbes so they're happy and reproduce. This breeds the microbes and, effectively allows you to get much more microbial life from the existing compost so a couple of handfuls of compost, in a tea, give the microbial life of several whole bags of compost!

When done, usually there will be a brown "froth" on the top of the bucket.

Just remove the compost "tea bag" and the compost inside can be used to top dress plants. All the tea can be sprayed on the plants and/or watered into the soil.

NOTE: If your water has chlorine, just bubble the water with the air pump for about 24 hours before adding the compost "tea bag" to let any chlorine dissipate. The chlorine will kill the microbes.

Putting a drain in the composter or worm farm will let you collect "leachate" which some people will refer to as "tea" but is NOT compost tea. Leachate is different and, while it will contain microbes, if there's rotting food in the composter, it can also contain harmful bacteria and there is a debate as to whether or not to use leachate on the plants.

I do use the leachate, but that's because I don't compost (in the composter) any meats, dairy, etc. All those go into a Bokashi composter! :)

I hope that helps!

:Namaste:
 
Re: Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

You can make compost tea with plain compost, vermicompost, worm castings, or any combination of the three. In all three cases, the idea is the same, which is to breed the microbes before spraying on your plants and/or adding to the soil.

The compost/castings have microbes that break down the components in the soil to help feed the plant and, when you colonize with the good microbes, the "bad" microbes (like PM, pythium, etc.) have a much more difficult time colonizing.

The way I "brew" a compost tea is to take a couple/few handfuls of compost (of any/every type I have!) and put it into a paint straining bag. I hang that bag in a 5 gallon bucket of DE-CHLORINATED water with an airpump and airstone in the bucket, and let it bubble for 24-48 hours.

I add balckstrap molasses to the mixture to help feed the microbes so they're happy and reproduce. This breeds the microbes and, effectively allows you to get much more microbial life from the existing compost so a couple of handfuls of compost, in a tea, give the microbial life of several whole bags of compost!

When done, usually there will be a brown "froth" on the top of the bucket.

Just remove the compost "tea bag" and the compost inside can be used to top dress plants. All the tea can be sprayed on the plants and/or watered into the soil.

NOTE: If your water has chlorine, just bubble the water with the air pump for about 24 hours before adding the compost "tea bag" to let any chlorine dissipate. The chlorine will kill the microbes.

Putting a drain in the composter or worm farm will let you collect "leachate" which some people will refer to as "tea" but is NOT compost tea. Leachate is different and, while it will contain microbes, if there's rotting food in the composter, it can also contain harmful bacteria and there is a debate as to whether or not to use leachate on the plants.

I do use the leachate, but that's because I don't compost (in the composter) any meats, dairy, etc. All those go into a Bokashi composter! :)

I hope that helps!

:Namaste:
We have strictly plant and veggie/fruit matter in our worm composter. The tea we collect gets used in the GH for the maters and other veggies. We don't use it on our mj plants. We have a good thing going and don't want to vary it. It works great for the maters though. Lol
 
Re: Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

We have strictly plant and veggie/fruit matter in our worm composter. The tea we collect gets used in the GH for the maters and other veggies. We don't use it on our mj plants. We have a good thing going and don't want to vary it. It works great for the maters though. Lol

I'm not at all suggesting you change and I use the leachate from my worm farms on my veggies, too, for the same reason!

I just wanted to address the questions, ,differentiate the leachate from the tea and vermicompost from worm castings, and point out the "debate" on the use of leachate since, at some point, there will likely be someone saying NOT to use it. I try to point out the issues and say, "do your own research and make your own decision!" :)
 
Canna! yikes I dont need any more seeds .......aaand I am off to check this one out. GeeZoo I am up I am down & in & out and all funked up.


in review.......
OOOOhhhhooooieo, I think my wife-y might like that one as a change up to the sativas hybrids I just seeded out.

coooool:thanks:

Hey Keltic...ya eh bud, me too, must be the top shelf produce , up down, in , out, back and forth.....geesh!:)
 
Canna! yikes I dont need any more seeds .......aaand I am off to check this one out. GeeZoo I am up I am down & in & out and all funked up.


in review.......
OOOOhhhhooooieo, I think my wife-y might like that one as a change up to the sativas hybrids I just seeded out.

coooool:thanks:
You have to keep her happy, cuz if momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy! Lol! I'm glad our freebie helped out your lady. Have a fantastic evening!
 
Reps on the Biobomb Brownies. It's good to see the recipe out there. I want to know 1) how fast you feel them and 2) how long they carry you.

Good work girl. :high-five:
 
Hope you guys don't me dropping a question in here, you get a lot of clever brains around here. I bring this to smoke while I ask :passitleft:

I'm trying to set up a time lapse using my old mobile phone and I'm gonna struggle to set it running manually on a daily basis. Now, I was gonna leave it running as long as storage allows and then weed out the pics where lights were off but then I thought about the flash and if it would cause an issue to my flowering girl if it was to flash every 3 hours?
 
Hope you guys don't me dropping a question in here, you get a lot of clever brains around here. I bring this to smoke while I ask :passitleft:

I'm trying to set up a time lapse using my old mobile phone and I'm gonna struggle to set it running manually on a daily basis. Now, I was gonna leave it running as long as storage allows and then weed out the pics where lights were off but then I thought about the flash and if it would cause an issue to my flowering girl if it was to flash every 3 hours?
Well I would set it not to flash lol. But in all honesty I don't think the short burst would do anything. If it did no one on here would take pictures when lights are out. On our time lapse and a 32 GB card taking pictures every 30 seconds can last 4 days in veg and 7 days in flower due to lower file size made when lights are off. The camera I cost was $50 and well worth it.

Security camera with infrared won't mess them up either. They usually are at 820nm which is out of their spectrum. Thought I would throw that in there also. :passitleft:
 
I thought this a joke about the north pole to match Arctic Bowl with the North Pole. Now I feel dumb. Anyway I just had a question about compost tea. Is it mixing partially composted material in your pile then mixing it in a container with water or should it be completed composted?

Sorry to open up this (now old!) discussion, but one point of your question is important to address and that's using the leachate or making tea from partially composted material.

Even though I acknowledged I used the leachate and am fine with Canna's use of leachate (not that it would matter if I was not! :) ) based on her description, I highly recommend that you do NOT use leachate or make tea from any partially composted material that contains animal feces especially from any carnivorous animal. The last thing you want to be doing is spraying e. coli on your produce!
 
Sorry to open up this (now old!) discussion, but one point of your question is important to address and that's using the leachate or making tea from partially composted material.

Even though I acknowledged I used the leachate and am fine with Canna's use of leachate (not that it would matter if I was not! :) ) based on her description, I highly recommend that you do NOT use leachate or make tea from any partially composted material that contains animal feces especially from any carnivorous animal. The last thing you want to be doing is spraying e. coli on your produce!
I forgot we put rabbit poo in ours. I've read up on it and it's a great source of npk. That's another reason why it doesn't go in the mj. We never really know the strength that way.
 
I forgot we put rabbit poo in ours. I've read up on it and it's a great source of npk. That's another reason why it doesn't go in the mj. We never really know the strength that way.

OK...at this risk of being called "full of sh*t", here's the scoop on poop! :)

The Scoop on Poop Cows are good sources of manure, but steers raised in feed lots may have
manure with a high salt content due to being fed salt licks.

Although not as glamorous as compost and other organic fertilizers, animal manure is a good thing for the garden. Manures offer lots of soil improvement advantages to an edible gardener. They help build the organic matter content, add nutrients, increase microbial activity, and
improve drainage in heavy soils and moisture retention in sandy soils. The key to using animal manure is knowing what type you have, when to apply it, and how to spread it. So here's your guide to the scoop on poop.

Compost That Poop It's best to either compost fresh manure or used well-aged manure that’s been sitting for at least six months. Fresh manures can contain bacterial pathogens such as E. coli and parasites such as roundworms and tapeworm that can infect humans. If composted properly to 140 degrees F, these hazards are minimized. Check here for the proper technique on building a hot compost pile.

If you're having a farmer spread fresh manure on your garden, it's best to apply it the fall before you garden. This will give it time to breakdown. If you must apply undecomposed manures in spring, do so 120 days before harvesting any leafy green crop or root crops and 90 days before harvesting any above ground fruiting crops. Never use uncomposted animal manure as a side dressing on existing plants.

Not All Poop is Created Equal Not all animal manures are used the same way or have the same in
nutrient content. Some, such as chicken and bat guano, are "hot" manures, high in urea nitrogen. These should be used carefully on plants even after they’ve decomposed because they their high nitrogen content can burn tender root systems.

Horse manure is loaded with weed seeds, because horses only digest one-quarter of the material they eat.

Manure teas are a great way to apply manures to plants to have a quick effect.

Cow, sheep, and horse manures are not as hot, but because they are often mixed with high carbon bedding such as sawdust or hay, they are best used composted so all the materials have a chance to break down. Other manures, such as cat, dog, or pig, should be avoided all together because they may harbor diseases that can infect humans even after decomposition.

If you have a small garden, consider using worm castings. These are high in soluble nutrients and can be used directly in the garden. You can buy bags of worm casting, but raising your own worms is fun, although you'll need a lot of worms to produce enough castings to amend a large garden.

A better way to use worm castings is to make a compost tea. The tea water is rich in nutrients and is a great way to give your plants a quick boost as a foliar fertilizer. In fact, you can make tea from any manure. Here's a little more information on making manure or compost teas.

Which manure you use may also be a matter of availability. Horse, cow, and chicken manures are probably easier to find in the community than sheep, bat, and rabbit. Buying bags of composted manure is easy and safe, but it can get expensive.

Here are some tips on the benefits of various types of manure.

Cow Manure – This is a good all purpose manure. It has a good balance of nutrients, but they are low in quantity. It's more often used as a soil conditioner to improve soil structure by adding
organic matter than as a way to deliver lots of nutrients to plants. However, because of its low nitrogen content, it tends not to burn the roots of tender plants as easily. Since cows have 4 stomaches and their food is well digested, the organic matter and weed seeds are well broken down.

Chicken/Bird Manure – This manure is highest in nitrogen and phosphorous and the nutrients are quickly available to plants. The urea nitrogen can easily burn plan roots, so this must be used carefully around plants. However, the high nitrogen content makes it great for leafy greens. It has few weed seeds and diseases.

Check local farms for good sources of animal manures. An old pile of aged manure is usually best.

Chicken manure is high in nitrogen and phosphorous, but too much can burn the roots of tender plants.

Sheep and Goat Manure – This manure is drier than other manures, so it’s easier to use. It has a low odor and is a richer source of nitrogen and potassium than cow and horse manure. It doesn't burn plants, but can have weed seeds.

Horse Manure – Probably one of the easiest manures to find locally, it's a good all-purpose product, but like cow manure, not necessarily high in nutrients. Since a horse only digests one-quarter of the grass and seeds it eats, its poop is high in weed seeds.

Worm Castings – A great source of macro- and micronutrients, it's odorless, doesn't burn plants, even if applied fresh, and is good at stimulating microbial growth in soil. You can buy worm castings or raise the worms yourself. However, you'll need lots of worms to make enough castings to feed your garden. It's best to stretch the castings by making a tea out of the castings to feed plants more readily.

Exotic Manures – As people start raising other types of animals around their homes as pets or for commerce, you may find more exotic manure available. Don't shy away from trying their manure in your garden. Rabbit, alpaca, and llama are just some of the exotic animals that produce usable manures. If you're near a zoo, you might find elephant and rhino poop for sale. Now that's some good organic matter.

How Much Poop? As a soil conditioner, generally you can use 40 pounds of composted manure per 100 square feet of garden. That's about a bag or two of purchased composted manure. If applying composted manures to existing beds that are already very fertile, a 1- to 2-inch thick layer is probably sufficient. On poor soils, double that amount.

BTW...the ONE exception is RABBIT POOP!!!! It can be used directly on the garden without composting. The rabbits already composted it! :)
(actually, it's just a slow breakdown)
 
OK...at this risk of being called "full of sh*t", here's the scoop on poop! :)



BTW...the ONE exception is RABBIT POOP!!!! It can be used directly on the garden without composting. The rabbits already composted it! :)
(actually, it's just a slow breakdown)
Thanks for the good read! My dad actually told me about the rabbit poo being ok for a worm composter. I, of course had to research it, and it was true! Yay!!
 
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