i have to believe that yous alls technical precisionaryness is the separator between good and great. good on yas all

a constant education round here,, gotta love it,, indeed

weaseley,, friend,, wanted to share this with you,, popped up this morn,, a 'cheese' treated with colloidal silver,, from somewhere,,

maybe some radioactivity got in here as well, haha,,

P1170670.JPG


i might have seen a pic of this but for sure never had one. this gonna be fun,, i am thinkin,,

cheers friend,, chat soon.

oh,, very bottom of a bag of 'chocolope' again from i dunna know where,, i found two tiny seeds,, lookin fully developed tho,, might they be choco's ya think?? gonna drop em in water i think.

good stuff,, cheers for now friend,, :thanks:
 
Thanks a lot Skybound you’re an amazing resource.

Hi @veinz :passitleft:

technical precisionaryness

Cool trifoliate (sp?) baby Nivek.

Not a heck of a lot of that technicalish stuff going on around at my place let me tell you. Maybe the grass growing operation always looks more technical on the other side? I have noticed that effect with a lot of pursuits in life.

The stuff you haven’t tried yet is usually more technical looking than the stuff you already have tried. Except I guess for the things that are a lot more technical looking after you try them. Generally it’s like
‘The water’s fine once you’re in, c’mon!’
Or so we like to tell everyone.
Or so Skybound likes to tell everyone anyway...

Read up, source the parts, spend a month or two learning codes, build and program a 3D printer so I can get started on figuring out how to print out, build and program a bigger and better 3D printer? Sure why not? Or I could just watch? Looks technical....

Also some people have the knack of focussing on technical stuff, and even more importantly, remembering it later so th... Hey look!! a butterfly!!!

Whoops it flew away. Shit. So as I was saying- about the seeds. They ought to be Chocolope x Golden Tiger. The GT was a male from reg seed. I guess it might have been a moth. It is the middle of the night and all....

I’ve been doing a few side by side experiments lately. I’ve found myself too busy to properly pay a lot of attention to them and take photos of progress, etc. Which probably diminishes some of the white knuckle excitement of these tests for the hordes of people following this journal. But they’re still useful tests.

——Test #1

is the side by side ‘super high vs super low PH’ test. This is in my grow medium, Sunshine Mix #4, which consists of peat moss with about 30% perlite, and some lime.

One clone went through flowering with feedings of about PH 3, which is basically where my PH lands when I mix the bottled nutrients, pre-adjustment.

The ‘high PH’ clone had the same feed but at around PH 10, give or take a little. Basically I’d toss some PH + into the mix until it was insanely high and then feed it to the victim. Sometimes it was 9, sometime 11.

Anyway, shockingly, both plants seem fine- or at least equally as fine as all the other plants with well-adjusted PH. I’ll get some photos at harvest time. Now that my LEDs are not in the flowering room anymore it’s once again difficult to get any decent photos under normal-ish light.

——Test #2

is the ‘flushed vs unflushed’ test. Or, more accurately, the ‘feed till the bitter end vs -stop feeding before the bitter end’ test.

Those two plants are almost at harvest as well and the results don’t look particularly earth shattering, the bud actually looks pretty similar on both of them so far. It’s kind of hard to see under that light and I’ll have a better idea in about a week



——Test #3

is the ‘dry your bud too much and it will never cure again. Or will it?’ test.
So this, as with the other two tests, was partly prompted by some forceful comments on the forum. Also - it’s just something I’ve questioned increasingly over the years. People say that once you over-dry your bud after harvest, the curing process stops dead and it will not cure after that. The idea being, as I read it, that once your RH drops below 55% (cause you screwed up and let it dry too much), whatever elements/microbes/bacteria which effect the changes we call ‘curing’, are killed, :rip: and will not return. And your bud will not be good thereafter.

To the end of testing this I left a bud of Strawberry Blue on the shelf in a warm dry room to dry to a crisp. Actually I then went sailing and forgot it there for a week so it was definitely crispy. The main portion of the SB harvest was put in the jar to cure normally.

The crispy bar was divided into two parts and put in smaller jars. One of the small jars got a 62% Boveda pack to rehydrate it. In a few months I will try smoking the various buds and see if I can detect radical differences. I’m going to try this with a few more harvests in future as well, because it’s something I would like to test out a bit more thoroughly than just once. Also my crispy sample is smaller then I intended, and I didn’t mean to crisp it for a week. I just want to replicate screwing up the drying process, and then see if the bud cures well after that or not.




There was some other stuff I was going to say but this damn butter moth/fly keeps flittering around the cabin.


Edit. Oh yeah I remember now
.
The LEDs. I’m having some question how well these are actually working, given that the buds under them seem small and sort of listless. As I said before it’s sort of like they barely know there’s a super bright light just above them. They don’t seem to want to look up, or go towards them.

To be fair, the plant that is under them is my main ‘problem plant’, the clone of the original P Chunk, which I have been cloning and re-cloning for four years. I think it has lost its will to live so it’s not exactly the best test subject. I should bring some young seedlings in and see how they do. However, since I’ve gone this far with the PC I don’t want to pull it out now- so I’m sort of committed to keeping it there....

I asked Grizzwald about it because he has the same lights. He reported similar worries. Nivek has some too. Lights that is, not worries. The jury is out. Probably smoking dope over at Graytail’s place.
 
The printer costs $225 on Amazon for Tevo Tarantula Pro. You have to assemble it and ensure it's square and tight, but the firmware is free and open sourced which means it constantly getting better and easier to use. In fact, some nice Canadian dude named Jim Brown made a version of that firmware that is the easiest to use for beginners and there's a youtube walk through of how to arrange and upload Jim Brown's version of the free firmware (Marlin).

Beyond that, there are free programs convert 3D models into machine operation instructions, then end result is that 3D model gets printed.

Of course there is some technical things you need to stay on top of, like the contrast between your cool humid air and molten plastic being extruded. Everybody's environment is different, but you can dial it in and keep it dialed in.

Filament comes in 1Kg rolls and they cost less than $20 USD and can last a long time. I run through mine because of designing and tweaking my designs requires several prints before I get some things right. Heck, building my new room would have been near impossible if not for these stupid and simple plastic circles that are 1mm thick that I used to staple through. So not only does the staple now have a wider foot print and fastening power, but also all the pin holes in my plastic are identified so I can put a piece of tape over.

staple circle.jpgthe ceiling.jpg
 
Yes I’m always thinking about the printer idea, watching for uses. When I stapled up my first grow rooms I used cut up bits of plastic milk cartons under the staples....
I have been looking for things I could use on a boat, given that plastic is waterproof. If I could print out a muffler for the wet exhaust that would save buying one for $400, but it’s a pretty bulky object- maybe about 20” long by 14” high I’m guessing. I don’t have one right now and one of its functions is to stop a wash of water from a rogue wave in the rear end making its way up through the pipe and into the motor. Unlikely, but also very bad.

There’s a fellow with a blog here 3D Printer? – Two At Sea who had some positive thoughts on the one in his boat. Of course this guy seems to have endless time and money to goof around with toys, but... it’s fun to dream.

Also I could print out a skull shaped knob for the outside gear shifter, would go well with the pirate flag that’s there.
 
Interesting to hear about your tests. They're things I've wondered about, myself.

Test #1 - Doc has always insisted that buffered peat won't be affected by the pH of the nutrient feeds. If you pH in soil, you just add unwanted salts and other contaminants. It seems to be confirmed by your experiment.

Test #2 - Conradino says, in no uncertain terms, after reading the science, that flushing is pointless. It has no affect on the finished plant. So again, is seems your test confirms.

Test #3 - I've overdried harvests before, and just jarred it up anyway, with two or three Bovedas to rehydrate them. Surprisingly, the bud got very aromatic once it moistened up. Then I pulled the extra Bovedas and it stayed that way for the duration. It seemed to have no real affect on "the cure". I'm not sure though, if I even like "the cure". I tend to prefer fresh herb, so ...

As far as the LEDs, I'm still amazed at how well they perform for me. I really need to turn mine down a little. But each garden and gardener are unique.

:Namaste:
:bongrip:
 
Thanks For weighing in GT. Re the lights, I think I just need to run a plant completely through flowering to get a better sense of how they are performing. And this particular plant is not a good plant to be using as an example. Since the pods on it produced by colloidal silver do not seem to be pollinating anything, I think I may move it back into the main grow and put something else in there instead.

Regarding test #2 I do not normally ‘flush’. However I do usually reduce or stop feeding at the end. Some members have stridently proclaimed that I am starving the plant at the time it most needs feeding. I definitely don’t see a plant at the end of harvest as needing full strength feeding. Besides, I am not actually starving it- the plant is feeding itself from its foliage and it usually does a lovely job of doing that. It seems to me the plants I have fed heavily to the end have taken on a very green overfed look but I didn’t like. But I could be biased or flat out wrong.

Of course you and Conradino are coming from a soil perspective whereas I am feeding them bottled stuff in more of a hydro situation so it is a little different.

Re test #3 I haven’t noticed any major difference in quality of bud no matter how I initially dried it, as long as it gets a decent time in the jar later. And I know I have over-dried some of my bud in the past. I do assume that a slow dry is better than a fast one but I haven’t really tested that either.

In general I find that most natural processes are not so delicate, as to be all killed below 55% Rh for example. Also I don’t read of anyone talking about this stuff in any industry outside of our favourite one and obviously there are a lot of plants that get harvested and dried. Do they all need to stay above 55% RH at all times or they’re crap? Maybe I’ll put on a business tycoon disguise and email some fine tea or tobacco producers...

It may be just general pig-headedness, but I get sceptical about any info that I see repeated over and over. Copy and paste remarks without any evidence to support it.... I automatically start questioning. With some ‘facts’ you can tell that there isn’t much backup to support them, because people have to say them more loudly to compensate for lack of evidence...

For example when I joined the forum people used to constantly repeat that clone cuttings needed to be immediately immersed in water or you would get an air bubble which would block water uptake. I tested that and there was no evidence to support it in my tests. You can easily leave your cuttings laying around as long as you want and they may dry to a crisp but they won’t get an embolism.

Another popular one was that if you get water droplets on your leaves it will have a lensing effect and burn the plant. That is also a myth for the most part and the idea seems to have mostly died now.
 
I’ve seen @bobrown14 post simple organic mixes before. If he doesn’t respond to paging him here I’ll look him up and ask. I’d love to make a simple mix with seaweed, bunny poo, compost, peat...

My mix is pretty short list of ingredients, only 1 may be tough to find in Canada but I've found them for others in Canada. So they are available.

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot

Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 to 1 cup per cubic foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Malted Barley @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot (ground fine in a coffee grinder)

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot


Mix with:



1/3 humus = Compost/EWC/Vermicompost
1/3 aeration = Rice hulls or Perl-lite
1/3 CSPM = Canadian Spagnum Peat Moss

Its the compost, get that right you wont have any worries.

I compost rabbit poop - Got a shit ton with wood pellets mixed in made from saw dust and it composted beautifully.

I've grown plants in almost total rabbit berries. Gonna hit up my local Llama / Alpaca farm for some of that poop as well. These are some of the few other poop that doesn't have to be composted.

I like to add them to my vermi-compost bins. It really kicks the compost into high gear. Throw some of the poop on top of some cannabis clippings and the worms go crazy. I threw a bunch of alfalfa in there (rabbits eat alfalfa as do Alpaca and Llama), my bins completely went nuts. Sometimes its good to heat things up in there at the end of the season I can get a few more weeks work out of the worms. lol

Weesel I grow organically and if my plants aren't yellow or some other color than green I'm messing up. Kinda the opposite of what a lot of folks think on this.

I'm ok with the leaves dying and FALLing off. Chlorophyll degradation in the fan leaves is a good thing. imho.

There's a fair amount of science above my pay grade on it.


If you need help with any of the inputs on this list in Canada lemme know. I've found them for others.

Rock dusts for CEC. These likely can be found locally in the form of clay by the rivers if you have mountains nearby. We add rock dust to mimic the clay layer under most all soils. Add the SOM (compost) to that - the microbe party gets started. We like paramagnetic rock dust best.
 
On your tests:

pH testing - I dont even have a pH pen lost it a long time ago. When I find it, I'ma gonna toss it.

Dry vs cured... smoke'm when you got em. I've never tasted crappy freshies that I can remember anyways. Which ain't much.

Flushing vs non-flushing - I dont think the plants care.

Just doin my part to make life more simple.
 
My phone alarm wakes me up with whatever music it seems to want to find at the time and Zappa seems to be one of its faves, so many days I’ve got ‘Hey there people I’m Bobby Brown’ stuck in my head incurably.
Damn, now it is again.
Thanks a lot Bob. I’m excited to see some stuff on that list that I can make or already have. I do have a bag of glacial rock dust, and can make oyster flour. I can presumably make kelp meal and crustacean meal, and have EWC and compost, perlite and peat.
The neem and karanja cake used to be impossible to find but I really doubt it is anymore.
I’m sure I have what it takes to make a rough version of that mix, and will get started on putting together an experimental attempt. Thanks a lot, again. May your car stay fast and your teeth shiny.
:thumb:

Edit- no lime in the mix? The rock/shell dusts fill that function maybe?
 
...neem and karanja cake are still hard to find in Canada...karanga in particular...neem not so much, but shipping can be cost prohibitive...I use essentially the same ingredients as Bob but without those two...I add blood meal and bone meal to mine as well..easily available anywhere...I've never owned a ph pen either, although I keep some litmus paper around...my thoughts are the ingredients will provide sufficient magnesium/calcium without affecting ph of your mix drastically
...the nice thing about Doc's kit...it takes out the trial and error of finding just the right mix...once you get past the sticker shock of shipping it up here...it works well...easy to use and results are great...

...cheerz... :high-five: ...h00k...:hookah:...
 
Thanks Dr H00k and congrats again on MOTM!

I’m going to start scratching together ingredients for a little DIY organic soil attempt when I get back home. And the Kit and/or the hydro salts are something to save money towards.

Yes it is a bit weird, the shipping thing. I do not really understand it actually. Up until about five years ago shipping was fairly cheap and many places provided free shipping and that seemed to be no problem. Then all of a sudden Canada Post decided to start calling much of Northern BC a ‘remote area’. Overnight shipping became astronomical, and In a lot of cases not even available for us.

I don’t know where the money goes. I just ordered a $140 item from amazon and they wanted over $150 for shipping. Instead I got it sent to a friend in Vancouver with free shipping and she sent it to me for $17, with Canada Post... :hmmmm: So where does my money go, up someone’s nose perhaps, eventually?
 
Wease, IDK if it's practical, but maybe keep a list of things you have or can make, then post it so Bob and others can pick it apart and make suggestions and whatnot?
 
OK cool well I do love pissing around with that sort of stuff so when I get to grinding up oysters, kelp, or crab shells I will definitely post about it. In particular I never did quite figure out what kelp meal is. Some people online said it’s just dried kelp. Other people online said it is not just dried kelp, and blathered something about expensive machines and cold pressing, or something...
 
OK cool well I do love pissing around with that sort of stuff so when I get to grinding up oysters, kelp, or crab shells I will definitely post about it. In particular I never did quite figure out what kelp meal is. Some people online said it’s just dried kelp. Other people online said it is not just dried kelp, and blathered something about expensive machines and cold pressing, or something...

the kelp I got from CHN looks like black pepper, ground large grain black pepper. It's dried and I presume it all was once part of the plant, and it's just chopped, not all that finely I might add, but small enough to be a soil amendment? I suspect any size that will simply expose more surface area to the microbes. So maybe you could say that the finer it is, the quicker the microbes will break it down?
 
My phone alarm wakes me up with whatever music it seems to want to find at the time and Zappa seems to be one of its faves, so many days I’ve got ‘Hey there people I’m Bobby Brown’ stuck in my head incurably.
Damn, now it is again.
Thanks a lot Bob. I’m excited to see some stuff on that list that I can make or already have. I do have a bag of glacial rock dust, and can make oyster flour. I can presumably make kelp meal and crustacean meal, and have EWC and compost, perlite and peat.
The neem and karanja cake used to be impossible to find but I really doubt it is anymore.
I’m sure I have what it takes to make a rough version of that mix, and will get started on putting together an experimental attempt. Thanks a lot, again. May your car stay fast and your teeth shiny.
:thumb:

Edit- no lime in the mix? The rock/shell dusts fill that function maybe?

I try not to think about that song. It was GREAT when I saw him play it live tho.

Glad I could help. lol


For Ca - there's some in your shells from the oysters and crabs. I use crustacean meal which is the crab shells and oyster shell flour which is the well oysters. The only other Ca amendment I add is Gypsum (not the drywall crap). Check your local feed store they should have everything.
 
the kelp I got from CHN looks like black pepper, ground large grain black pepper. It's dried and I presume it all was once part of the plant, and it's just chopped, not all that finely I might add, but small enough to be a soil amendment? I suspect any size that will simply expose more surface area to the microbes. So maybe you could say that the finer it is, the quicker the microbes will break it down?

Yours is processed - its actually added to animal feed as a food amendment since what they are eating is lacking in some of the micro nutrients. Fresh stuff can be rinsed and composted or just set out to dry. It will break down fresh pretty quick and smell like ass on the way.

Kelp meal is washed, dried and chopped kelp packaged for delivery. Mine is green and looks like parsley but smells like fish.

@Blew Hiller does a lot of processing sea weeds from where he's at in Main. He's been working with it for a long time and composts it and uses the compost in the soil mix he makes
 
Cool. Thanks a lot.

Wait!
well oysters.
about sourcing the well oysters. I’ve never seen any in my well, at all. Gonna be very expensive to get shipped here I bet :(
jk.


@Blew Hiller do you journal the processing of seaweeds somewhere? If so I’ll come and snoop around. Thanks.
 
Weasel at the psychgreenhouse
'doc my plants are shit small yellow, thinking of giving up'
Doc 'so you can't grow enough for yourself and friends?
W;'no I've got too much stashed away'
D;'oh it's not getting you stoned?
W;'some best smoke friends have had has come from my growroom
D;'so its small ugly flowers with no sparkle
W; 'ive won bud of the month couple times, my flowers in photo do look somewhat better than most'
D; Oh so you want a pretty plant to win an award?
W; 'No I've done that too ..
Doc; 'can you teach me how to grow
 
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