For these Wizard autos and also the Wookiee I recently finished, I let them grow until I see the first pistils and then top above the fourth. Sometimes I end up cutting off quite a bit of the plant. I let them grow wild and vigorous until I see those first pistils though.
I believe these Wizard were starting work on their sixth or possibly even seventh node when I topped them. I only train the four tallest branches and that is only after topping. Once everything else grows up and matches height, I let them go.
I use the
@Carcass c-hooks for training.
My training methods for autos aren't for the faint of heart. I know my ticker gets pumping a bit when I cut almost six inches off of an auto flower that's ready to start blooming. I could see a few growers reading me the riot act over such a sight.
I recommend that you try at your own risk as our grow methods are as different as our environments probably are. Genetics are also going to play a huge roll in the end results.
If you have the room to play around without causing you to go dankrupt, then definitely give it a go and see what you get.
Also....
I transplant my autos and generally feed full strength nutes unless they happen to be one of the occasional light feeders. These Wizards like it a bit lighter on the feed than the Wookiees I grew did.
I really don't treat them differently than my photoperiod plants except the light duration at flower. I may pay them a little extra attention in veg because they don't have time for repairing any issues like you have with photoperiod plants.
I just try to keep them green, comfortable and growing at a fast rate. Top them to delay flower and it will slow them down until they start their stretch.
Hope this helps.