Urgent DWC Nutrition help needed!

G

GigaGrew

New Member
Hi guys
i will state right at the start that i have what i have and have zero money to get anything else so please dont suggest buying this and that.

once my money is fixed i will be going exclusively BPN because corey rocks and so do his products!


anyways here is what i have.
right now there is nothing in my res except the phosphogen at full strength, but i know its got deficiencies, most obviously i see no calcium in its make up =(

i have phosphogen, seaweed extract, molasses, south english tap water and possibly milk, lol.

can someone with an intimate knowledge of plant nutrition tell me the best combination and ratios of these items to have as my res...please save my grow ;)







 
well I dont do hydro gig. but I do have a chart here from ff nutes and I will just give you the N-P-K for Hydro
the followingseeds and cutting under 18hrs light 3-2-6and added worm castings and guano that is for the duration of veg at !tbl per gallon.
not alot of info but thats about all I got :hmmmm:
 
kinda hard to say much if your not able to pick up anything else, if it were me i would do one of 2 things, either transplant to soil, (personally i dont think newish growers should grow hydro, i have been growing along time and still just barely thinking about doing my first hydro after 8-9 indoor harvests) but thats just my opinion
the other thing is change out the res often keep the ph 5.5 to 6.0 ,that fertilizer seems very basic and strong i would be inclined to run it half strength, and use more of the seaweed ,the seaweed should be gentler and better or cannabis, i would use it full strength or perhaps a little stronger, about 1 tsp per gallon molasses,, that all purpose looks to be really high in (k) that can cause lockout of other nutrients, so go easy with that stuff, i dont see any calcium in there, your gonna need calcium! thats almost a macro for cannabis imho, you can disolve a human calcium pill in a gallon of water and add to the res and even spray the fans with it, i hope this helps, good luck buddy:thumb:
 
thanks mate, i didnt even know there were calcium pills, lol, i was thinking of putting milk in there for a couple of hours a day then cleaning the res out again as an emergency measure.

i know that seaweed is suppose to be superduper and same with molasses, but i dont have a clue about what they contain so im afraid of them.

is it possible to over feed on these things?
 
I would firstly DILUTE the jug when you take it, or else you are gonna' sour that soil you're using. With soil, you probably don't need to add nutrients the first or maybe even the second grow. Soil contains mostly everything the plant needs. Too many people pamper the $hit out of them. Remember these are weeds and have thrived on this planet for eons, in soil and without the help or influence of mankind. That mixture you have is actually a decent all-purpose fertilizer. I have never used any sugar additives in any soil grown ladies and have yet to experience any difficulties. many years ago I started with soil, there was no Hydro back then. I have been growing Hydro since 2002, but annually, I grow 6 plants outdoors on my front patio. Isolated with a 7' tall stucco wall. I do it more for fun than necessity and it helps teach my wife about what the plant is like in all the varieties I grow. She is asleep during my flowering times. My prized Sativas are always out there. I replenish the soil with fertilizers 1X a week in Spring and Fall, and 2X a week through Summer. The balance of the water they get is filtered (4 stages) tap water. I get great results and quench the free lighting.
 
sfttailpaul said:
I would firstly DILUTE the jug when you take it, or else you are gonna' sour that soil you're using. With soil, you probably don't need to add nutrients the first or maybe even the second grow. Soil contains mostly everything the plant needs. Too many people pamper the $hit out of them. Remember these are weeds and have thrived on this planet for eons, in soil and without the help or influence of mankind. That mixture you have is actually a decent all-purpose fertilizer. I have never used any sugar additives in any soil grown ladies and have yet to experience any difficulties. many years ago I started with soil, there was no Hydro back then. I have been growing Hydro since 2002, but annually, I grow 6 plants outdoors on my front patio. Isolated with a 7' tall stucco wall. I do it more for fun than necessity and it helps teach my wife about what the plant is like in all the varieties I grow. She is asleep during my flowering times. My prized Sativas are always out there. I replenish the soil with fertilizers 1X a week in Spring and Fall, and 2X a week through Summer. The balance of the water they get is filtered (4 stages) tap water. I get great results and quench the free lighting.
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awesome thanks man...so tommorow as soon as the lights come on, ill make up 5 litres (thats my res capacity atm) of 50% strength seaweed empty my res and flush the entire 5 itres through the soil and into the res. that should dilute the ferts that have soaked into the soil and drop it into the res with the seaweed.

does that sound about right?
then future water changes i could go 50% str fert 50% str seaweed.

will that give my plant everything it needs or am i still needing to get something like those calcium pills.

the soil is a strange mix at the moment. its like 1 part westlands with john innes no 2 that has been drained of nutes from previous use mixed 50/50 with perlite. and 1 part westlands light and easy 4 month mixed with 50% vermiculite that has been flushed once. (basically i got new soil and it was way to hot for my plants so i flushed it, duge them out and mixed my soil with the old soil, lol...desperate times and all that oO
 
If you were to go get some wild worms, I would suggest for you to make it into a tea, its faster acting. Molasses usually has calcium in it, I know the one I have does. But if its a PH problem I would flush and then start fresh with the ferts. And like the one guy said I would replant because your going to still need calcium. You can foliar feed using lime or find some animals waste ( slow acting ). Thats the best I got if you cant buy anything. :Hookah:
 
WizHigh said:
If you were to go get some wild worms, I would suggest for you to make it into a tea, its faster acting. Molasses usually has calcium in it, I know the one I have does. But if its a PH problem I would flush and then start fresh with the ferts. And like the one guy said I would replant because your going to still need calcium. You can foliar feed using lime or find some animals waste ( slow acting ). Thats the best I got if you cant buy anything. :Hookah:
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ph problem? i dont have any problems at the moment thankfully other than needing a good recipe to feed my plants. i got 20 of them, mostly growing in soil at the moment, but im trying to transition to DWC because of the improved growth speed.
 
If going to DWC, I needs to point out that Molasses is bad. Sugar in water grows bacteria and fungus like mad. If transitioning, make sure to wash off your roots and make absolutely sure no soil is on the roots. Do this in a cool temperature B Vitamin bath which you can immerse the whole root ball and manipulate it. after the bulk is off, move it to another bin with cool water and more B vitamin. You can get this in bulk at any greenhouse supply as "Root Stimulator."

Make absolutely sure that this is something you want to do and can keep on top of the reservoir temperatures as Root Rot grows fast in warm water. Believe me, once you've had pythium, you'll never, ever want that shyte again. You'll want to keep your water temperature at, or below 20C to help keep it at bay.
 
Thanks JD! i will avoid the molasses like the plague then =D

i got no chance of buying vitamin b atm, but i did wash the roots off as best i can and will have another attempt shortly, i guess if needed i will have to take the scissors to the roots to remove the little lumps of soil that wont wash off as the root grew through it =(

what is the safe lower temprature, ie if i get nutes straight out of the fridge, will it be too cold and shock the plant?

the way ive got my set up, its not difficult at all to swap out the rez contents several times a day.

when i get paid and go for my air pump, ill also get a water pump and set up a little radiator with cpu heatsink' n fans that should help keep the water cooler for longer.

thankfully the soil thing is a temporary problem, as i progress, soil will be a thing of the past as it now seems i have got the hang of cloning in vermiculite =D the soil in my 50/50 soil/dwc will be replaced with perlite/vermi
 
its going to be pretty hard to monitor without a ph tester and an ec or ppm tester, all i use is bpn as it gives the plants everything they need, i know you can add loads of other stuff to make them grow better but the results im getting with my 2ltr dwc are ok and i get what i want from it, clearly the difference between soil and dwc or hydro is loads, the plants grow a whole lot quicker in dwc or hydro, but setting it ups the easy part, monitoring and adjusting each day is the hard part if you cant test the res,

i have got a ph tester and i know that when i mix bpn with tap water it gives the perfect ph for hydro or a dwc grow, so i should really be adding a tiny amount of ph up for my soil plants but i dont have ph up and the plants do ok without it, but not been able to test the liquid in the res is going to be a bit of a pain, the ph needs to be right and the ppm needs testing and raising or lowering if needed, i was told by corey that these plants max out at around 1600ppm, now i dont test the ppm with my 2ltr dwc but the res is empty every 24 to 36 hours so i did not need to test the ppm, plus mixing bpn with tap water gives the perfect ph for hydro, now using other products means you would need to check the ph and adjust as needed, if its not in the right ph level then you will hit problems and struggle to get healthy plants, so the ph is important with hydro or dwc grows.

as jandre knows it can be easy to grow this way but getting it right all the time is hard and without knowing whats going on in the res its hard to make adjustments, but you can tell when the plants getting to much nutes and when its not getting enough, but when you get other def problems its hard to make adjustments,

id say teSmp is a good source of info and you cant go far wrong listening to jandre,
 
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