Jamesnns
New Member
Its still alive....its hanging on. Its was my forst plant, the first to sprout...and I killed it.
Hopefully, tlc will get it back, but I doubt it
Hopefully, tlc will get it back, but I doubt it
How To Use Progressive Web App aka PWA On 420 Magazine Forum
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Its still alive....its hanging on. Its was my forst plant, the first to sprout...and I killed it.
Hopefully, tlc will get it back, but I doubt it
nice post!
I am glad that you found a method that works for you yankeetoker, but SWICK systems are not at all what I am describing in this thread. A passive system such as SWICK can not cause the soil exchange that happens with correct top down watering, and I am also not convinced that SWICK can saturate the top of the root ball. The method does work well for some people so I can't criticise success. It is probably the application of the teas from the top that allows this to work for you, but again, I can't really comment on a method that I have not tried.I'm in the process of my 2nd grow attempt. My 1st grow attempt was full of blunders (including over watering ) and ended with 2 hermies that I tossed. At the beginning of this grow attempt, I was under watering a bit AND put my lights to close....Plants were bleached and I thought I had killed them. So in a last ditch attempt to save them, I moved the lights up and switched to a "swick" system....Plants are recovering nicely with very nice looking green new growth.
I am allowing swick containers to dry out before any top feeding (enzyme teas, compost teas, etc).
I am glad that you found a method that works for you yankeetoker, but SWICK systems are not at all what I am describing in this thread. A passive system such as SWICK can not cause the soil exchange that happens with correct top down watering, and I am also not convinced that SWICK can saturate the top of the root ball. The method does work well for some people so I can't criticise success. It is probably the application of the teas from the top that allows this to work for you, but again, I can't really comment on a method that I have not tried.
I am glad that you found a method that works for you yankeetoker, but SWICK systems are not at all what I am describing in this thread. A passive system such as SWICK can not cause the soil exchange that happens with correct top down watering, and I am also not convinced that SWICK can saturate the top of the root ball. The method does work well for some people so I can't criticise success. It is probably the application of the teas from the top that allows this to work for you, but again, I can't really comment on a method that I have not tried.
5-10 minutes is a good time to soak a pot - but overnight is OK.
The water should go about 2/3 way up the side of the pot.
Interesting. According to Jorge Cervantes, roots start drowning after 20 minutes. If he's right, overnight wouldn't seem like a good idea.
According to Jorge Cervantes we should all grow sea of green - yet I hear he grows monster plants indoors.
Hi Emmie, thanks for this thread. I water much the same way, slowly and in stages. My biggest point: PH the water right before EACH AND EVERY watering!!!!!!!!!
On pot (container) shape...
Seed plants have tap roots (deeper root ball).
Clones don't have tap roots (shallower root ball).
Use an appropriate container for the type of plant you are growing.
Even a 12 foot tall outdoor clone monster uses no more than about 18 top inches of container height (I used 65 gal smart pots last outdoor grow). I hope I'm right about this and not just a lousy root grower (just started growing....47 years ago....lots left to learn)!!! What say y'all?
JohnnyOilseed