The New Autoflower Topping Thread

I have 4 new seedlings and I will definitely be topping them. I didn't do any topping on my first grow. Two of the seedlings are about a week old. They have the first two leaves underneath and they also have two sets of leaves on top. Is it true that you don't count the first two leaves on the bottom? So if I'm going to top them after their fourth set of leaves I would not count the first set? Also when you top are you cutting off the fourth set of leaves or are you cutting off what you what is coming out after? Just want to do this right! Thank you to everyone here for all the help:))


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PacificPeach said:
I have 4 new seedlings and I will definitely be topping them. I didn't do any topping on my first grow. Two of the seedlings are about a week old. They have the first two leaves underneath and they also have two sets of leaves on top. Is it true that you don't count the first two leaves on the bottom? So if I'm going to top them after their fourth set of leaves I would not count the first set? Also when you top are you cutting off the fourth set of leaves or are you cutting off what you what is coming out after? Just want to do this right! Thank you to everyone here for all the help:))


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Click to expand...

This is a pic of one of my topped girls. I added some arrows showing the new growth that you need to leave alone. These 2 new growths will each turn into a new top with apical dominance.
You don't count your starter (cotyledon) or the first set of single blade leaves. You want to count only the "true" leaves.

hope this helps.

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toppinFiming1.jpg
 
Schtiggy said:
This is a pic of one of my topped girls. I added some arrows showing the new growth that you need to leave alone. These 2 new growths will each turn into a new top with apical dominance.
You don't count your starter (cotyledon) or the first set of single blade leaves. You want to count only the "true" leaves.

hope this helps.

Capture161.JPG
toppinFiming1.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you! Great visuals!


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Howdy All and hope you guys don't mind me jumping in. Haveing more years with feminized outdoor/indoor grows and this is my second attempt with Auto's. Using all the great info I could find last year on this site for them, got good results with my first grow. When I first started with feminized strains there was so much crap about handling, following a regiment or rules to follow so they would not hermie out on you.
I broke all the rules and maybe just got lucky but feel that the stigmas that come with them and Auto's in general. Over time have in a sense been breed out or have developed into a heartier plants. Capable of handling training and lighting changes or in my case. User errors!! That were a no-no's 5 and 10++ years back. Just a though....

I do have a new one in the works and is at day 14 and a very healthy little girl. She has been on nuit's (diluted but present) since day one and got a pony tail today. I was in a debate as to top her or go with fimming?? My though is fimming is less aggressive or requires less recovery time and topping and LST. Be left to non-autos where lighting controls veg duration.
I don't know if I have the time for a full journal but would like to post updates to here if OK. Then will provide a link if I can manager the time for a journal. Anyhow this is her; Fast Bud's Green Crack, her partner in crime is a freebie feminized seed: Humboldt Seeds~ Bubbas Gift.

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The leaf spots are from LED's reflecting water drops and the auto is on the left.

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she is just starting her 4th node but has under-growth filling in as well

2017-02-06_006.JPG


You can see this under ponytail she got early this morning.... they both are really starting to kick it and am happy with the way they are coming along.

This is last years finished plant that I attempted LST on but NO topping or fimming.

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:420: :thumb:
 
goofyfoot said:
Howdy All and hope you guys don't mind me jumping in. Haveing more years with feminized outdoor/indoor grows and this is my second attempt with Auto's. Using all the great info I could find last year on this site for them, got good results with my first grow. When I first started with feminized strains there was so much crap about handling, following a regiment or rules to follow so they would not hermie out on you.
I broke all the rules and maybe just got lucky but feel that the stigmas that come with them and Auto's in general. Over time have in a sense been breed out or have developed into a heartier plants. Capable of handling training and lighting changes or in my case. User errors!! That were a no-no's 5 and 10++ years back. Just a though....

I do have a new one in the works and is at day 14 and a very healthy little girl. She has been on nuit's (diluted but present) since day one and got a pony tail today. I was in a debate as to top her or go with fimming?? My though is fimming is less aggressive or requires less recovery time and topping and LST. Be left to non-autos where lighting controls veg duration.
I don't know if I have the time for a full journal but would like to post updates to here if OK. Then will provide a link if I can manager the time for a journal. Anyhow this is her; Fast Bud's Green Crack, her partner in crime is a freebie feminized seed: Humboldt Seeds~ Bubbas Gift.

2017-02-06_001.JPG

The leaf spots are from LED's reflecting water drops and the auto is on the left.

2017-02-06_003.JPG

she is just starting her 4th node but has under-growth filling in as well

2017-02-06_006.JPG


You can see this under ponytail she got early this morning.... they both are really starting to kick it and am happy with the way they are coming along.

This is last years finished plant that I attempted LST on but NO topping or fimming.

0121117.JPG


018615.JPG


017693.JPG


0091531.JPG


:420: :thumb:
Click to expand...

So pretty - I love the red colors - What is the variety ?
 
That was LSD-25 from Fast Buds via: Herbie's. She was a deep crimson with touches of purple. I loved to bump her on purpose and smell my finger ..... her turps were a combination of melted chocolate and lemon Pledge, no shit!! She was all indoor under only CFL's ...I wonder what she could have done with the LED I have now or any combo of ballasted bulbs Here is her posing for the camera:

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...Peace.....

:420::thankyou:



Autoflower - Green Crack Trials - Second Attempt With Autos
 
Hello Velk, I am guesting that it is forming on the outside of the container?? If so, simply applying drugstore 3% hydrogen peroxide will help remove it. The link explains it use's in fish tanks if you are worried about safety or toxicity to your plant. It is water with an extra Oxygen molecule:

It's PH at 3% is estimated to equal about 5.7 if you follow the chart:

PH3.png


At 10% concentration it has a PH of 5.3 and 4.9 for 20%... so 5% would be PH 5.5 leaving an estimate for 3% at 5.6-7'ish.
The butter zone for hydro nuit absorption so it wont lock anything out. So getting a small mist bottle from a dollar store filled with it and an old tooth brush should cure you. If it keeps coming back or to prevent it, mist the area two or three times a day to stop it.

Just a thought as I had it happen a few years ago but on the inside of seedlings. I was in a hurry and used clear solo cups left over from a keg party as starter pots. Condensation on the inside and allowing light to get to it... that's why most pots are black!! I had to use a butter knife to go around the inside of each one and pour it around the edges to kill it. If left unchecked it will kill the ends of your root tips that contact it and inhibit growth, it is not a helpful thing to say the least. Hope it helps...Peace.....
:420:

Hydrogen Peroxide for Algae Removal | | Aquarium Space
 
For each 1% of h2o2 the math says it is equal to 0.17pH from a 0% solution to a 10% solution with a 7.0pH @25C. So a 3% solution of h2o2 would show a 0.51 change in pH with the same conditions. Which in fact would be 6.49pH not 5.7ish pH. That's a pretty wide discrepancy, almost .80pH which most likely could and/or would lead to lockout or deficiencies depending on the medium in question). Check the math.. The drop from 10%-20%, .40pH, is quite negligible when compared to the drop from 0%-10% which is 1.7pH (over 4x difference between the two samples 0-10% and 10-20%).

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I should have included the lower half as it help define industrial from commercial contents. Commercial applications ( hair bleaching / teeth whiteners ), pharmaceutical ( disinfectant-antiseptic-oral rinse ) 3% solutions that I was referring to. Listed at between 4 to 5 PH, while I was estimating 5.6 am in the high range. Lower then your calculated suggestion. I am also assuming soil for medium: 6.5 to 6.10PH recommended, and hydro 5.8 to 5.5 and as low as 5.2PH depending on temperature.

Also a spray mist application is confined and minimal, so the amount used will not alter the entire mediums PH being used as a whole. As if it were the volume applied in the feeding regiment.

So both are numbers are high, yours much higher?? But for the purpose of spot application, not immersing in a bath, or pouring the entire bottle over the area.
I stand by my statement in post as my PH tester I am using. After 60 seconds stabilized to 2.51PH in white table vinegar 5% dilution, it is listed at a 2.47PH. Did the same with a two week old bottle of drugstore 3% hydrogen peroxide and the same meter after 60 seconds it read 4.16PH. In the articles it refers to a level being at ~ 4 to 5PH.

I would feel safe using it on my grow to help control algae. It has also been prescribed in hydro for helping to eliminate root rot and slime concerning root mats. As you will most likely find info on this site as it (peroxide) applies to hydro and root rot and in reservoirs. To see how it was applied, the safety concerns and results.

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Hope you get your issue resolved...Peace.....
:420::thumb:
 
Velk said:
I've put a layer of perlite at the bottom of my fabric pots for better drainage for my coco I've noticed the gsc has algae growing in the bottom ..
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Hopefully it won't do it to much harm haven't got time to repot it





Velk's First Grow Journal - Coco - Auto - LED

Velk's 2nd Grow Journal - Mephisto Metropolis - Coco - LED

Agc Auto Growers Club
Click to expand...

I use fabric pots as well. To prevent any issues like this I set mine on white wire shelf racks (the wire type that you can buy at most stores) on top of 5 gallon buckets. This way the fabric has airflow underneath and does not sit in water.
Before I used the racks, I set them in short containers filled with gravel. This did the same thing, but not as well.
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Schtiggy said:
I use fabric pots as well. To prevent any issues like this I set mine on white wire shelf racks (the wire type that you can buy at most stores) on top of 5 gallon buckets. This way the fabric has airflow underneath and does not sit in water.
Before I used the racks, I set them in short containers filled with gravel. This did the same thing, but not as well.
IMG_026057.JPG
Click to expand...

That's a good idea thanks for the input . I've put the one affected on another type of drainage container lite like a cage like yours algae can't do to much harm people feed there plants it don't they ?


Velk's First Grow Journal - Coco - Auto - LED

Velk's 2nd Grow Journal - Mephisto Metropolis - Coco - LED

Agc Auto Growers Club
 
Update.I'm at day 39 with 3 blue auto Mazar and things do not look good. The 2 on the left were topped at around 20 days and the one in the back right was not topped. My problem is that they are really droopy. And if I water them or let them dry out they just don't perk up. The temp with lights on is around 78 and the RH is mid 40s. The light was 12 inches away I moved it up to see if that might be causing the problem. The lower fan leaves are all turning yellow. The soil is a LOS and I water with tea and then the next 2 times I water its straight water Ph is 6.9. Any ideas what is happening. The one in the front is showing pre flowers.
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You beat me to it Penn!! To further elaborate try and shoot for a range not just a specific reading. I shoot for 6.3-6.7. Doing this allows different nutrients and different minerals to be up taken at different levels at different times. This making for a healthier plant that gets everything it needs in my opinion.


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