The Mountain: Grow Support From The Over 50 Club

uptheholler said:
If you have a problem getting leaves to decompose I add lime and aerate. It's not a cure all but it sure as heck helps. We live in the woods so i have tons of leaves every year. Layer of leaves , layer of green clippings, layer of manure, layer of lime water and repeat.
I've added kitchen scraps for years and never had any problems but in my plie it's a spit in the ocean.
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Thank you holler for the information. I just use my compost for the yard soil but was thinking about trying it out on my plants inside. :thanks:
 
uth,
Sure wish I could learn as much about computers as I do about growing on this site. Any way my girls are growing, to copy you, like weeds. Another week or two and then we go to 12/12 and get to watch the girls turn into sparkling young ladies.
 
Hey Colorado... How you gettin along? When you are composting for indoor plant use keep in mind 2 things.
Make certain that the material is broken down more or you can get Nitrogen fixation. In outdoor applications your mixing compost with a higher volume of soil. If you include it in a mix for indoor potting you may want to decrease the percentage of other less decomposed ingredients such as peat moss.

Now here is the important part for indoor applications and the one thing that alot of producers forget about. You have to get your pile to 135-160 deg fahrenhite. Exothermic decompositon results in heat being created and since compost is also fairly insulating we need to trap that heat and put it to good use. Your pile should be at leat 4x4 feet. Other folks may tell you that you can get by with less. But let me tell you that 4x4x4 is the minimum that I would suggest if you plan on using the finished product indoors. Also folks don't keep their piles nearly wet enough to ensure the next step.Moisture levels shoud be around50% by weight. Water is 8lbs a gallon so if you think that your fluffly fresh pile is 20 pouns you need to apply around 3 gals of water initially. This needs to be as uniformly sprayed as possible while you mix. I then cover my piles with black tarps to trap heat and collect more heat via solar collection by the black tarp.

And this brings me finally to the punch line.... we need to maintain 150-160 degs to kill the critters. Now some folks will say Holler if you make a pile get that hot don't you lose some of your Nitrogen? It evaporates away as vapor. Yeah it does but... we have to maintain that temp to kill weed seeds , insect eggs and any potential parasites and fungal growth. We will be adjusting Nitrogen levels with our additives.
So Colrado my friend that why I said in the earlier post that IF a person wants to really end up with great composting material at the end it takes more work that most realize. I have 2 thermometers in my pile to monitor heat levels. So there you have it I have started off your Saturday morning with more than you probably ever wanted to know about the super exciting world of watching and managing a compost pile. It is slightly more exciting than watching paint dry!
 
I think this thread is a great idea.

I respect the idea of paying it forward through teaching. I've been on the site for a while now and have seen a lot of good grow support strategies over the years but have always felt the most effective ones where member driven.

It's great to have an active thread to reference when people have questions about growing.

Please also see the companion thread link ---> over-50-club

I've been asked by a few members via PM to help promote the "over 50 club" thread where appropriate. I'm posting it here for the benefit of any new people stopping by for help, so they know where the people helping them hang out to chat.

The "over 50 club" is located in our Off Topic forum which we created in a response to members' request for an area where the guidelines were more relaxed. This thread is on the main area where we respectfully request that guidelines be followed.

Have fun and learn ;)
 
Hey Soniq420! Thanks for stopping by and adding your support. I'll do my best to keep on topic on this thread and leave my senior moment pontification for my friends at the Over 50 club! But one thing that you can rely on here. That it is going to be common sense ideas and suggestions based upon the group's years of growing experience. Alot of us had to make do back in the old days before we had a proliferation of vendors ( Some of them valued sponsors I might add but.. you know.... the rest of them who are not sponsors!) with often times over hyped over priced products that are not necessarily the best use of your time or money. We old folks are cheap by nature which is why you can always follow us to the best restaurants! (See there I go drifting left of center again!) But I believe that the advice on this thread should be practical, cost considered vs harvest gained advice with an eye on those newer growers that want to cut some corners yet be responsible for their own Buzz! Thanks again for your support for both threads and we will do our best to help everyone we can!
 
uptheholler said:
Hey Colorado... How you gettin along? When you are composting for indoor plant use keep in mind 2 things.
Make certain that the material is broken down more or you can get Nitrogen fixation. In outdoor applications your mixing compost with a higher volume of soil. If you include it in a mix for indoor potting you may want to decrease the percentage of other less decomposed ingredients such as peat moss.

Now here is the important part for indoor applications and the one thing that alot of producers forget about. You have to get your pile to 135-160 deg fahrenhite. Exothermic decompositon results in heat being created and since compost is also fairly insulating we need to trap that heat and put it to good use. Your pile should be at leat 4x4 feet. Other folks may tell you that you can get by with less. But let me tell you that 4x4x4 is the minimum that I would suggest if you plan on using the finished product indoors. Also folks don't keep their piles nearly wet enough to ensure the next step.Moisture levels shoud be around50% by weight. Water is 8lbs a gallon so if you think that your fluffly fresh pile is 20 pouns you need to apply around 3 gals of water initially. This needs to be as uniformly sprayed as possible while you mix. I then cover my piles with black tarps to trap heat and collect more heat via solar collection by the black tarp.

And this brings me finally to the punch line.... we need to maintain 150-160 degs to kill the critters. Now some folks will say Holler if you make a pile get that hot don't you lose some of your Nitrogen? It evaporates away as vapor. Yeah it does but... we have to maintain that temp to kill weed seeds , insect eggs and any potential parasites and fungal growth. We will be adjusting Nitrogen levels with our additives.
So Colrado my friend that why I said in the earlier post that IF a person wants to really end up with great composting material at the end it takes more work that most realize. I have 2 thermometers in my pile to monitor heat levels. So there you have it I have started off your Saturday morning with more than you probably ever wanted to know about the super exciting world of watching and managing a compost pile. It is slightly more exciting than watching paint dry!
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So uptheholler my friend, may I quote you on that? ... Oh, I already did! :rofl:

But seriously, I really am grateful for the help and tips. :thanks:
 
Think the best advice that I can give any and all is to conduct your grow (especially 1st or 2nd time) by adhering to the K.I.S.S. train of thought : Keep It Simple Stupid. A very inexpensive piece of equipment everyone should have is a moisture meter. Should be able to get one for less then $10. Have used one for 40 years. Peace.
 
Well,

That is 1 piece of equipment I don't have yet. Yet being the operative word. Just ordered one from Amazon for less than 10 bucks. I hate the whole lifting and guessing at moisture content. Thanks for the advice.

Maui
 
Good morning to the Mountain.
Gnat wars and how to win (hopefully). 1/4 inch of sand on top of the soil, one way I`ve read about. Another is to water from the bottom only. This way will leave the top 2-3 inches of soil dry. Bottom watering is the way I`m using on my present grow. Never had the little bastards on my MJ grows. Heard both ways work.
 
Bottom water? I thought that was a bad idea? Maybe some insight on your procedure please?

Thanks
Maui
 
MauiWauiGuy said:
Bottom water? I thought that was a bad idea? Maybe some insight on your procedure please?

Thanks
Maui
Click to expand...

I have been bottom watering for many years. Someone must have forgot to tell me that it was a bad idea. :rofl:

:hmmmm: my procedure...I pour the water in the tray at the bottom and let the water wick up into the soil. I do this with all my other plants as well. Including house plants, Veggies, etc. :peace: :Namaste:
 
Thanks Coloradokid, I will think about this. Not sure that I want to make a change right now as I am 2 weeks into blooming.

Thanks for the info

Maui
 
Bottom watering.
Using bottom watering only on my current grow (first time). Do not notice any difference between watering from top or bottom. Previous grows were all (4 or 5) watered from the top. Only used the bottom method when leaving them alone for 2 or 3 days. Would fill the bottom saucer up and leave. Upon returning all was well. Have did this several times. Use broken pieces of clay pots or small clay pots to wick moisture up into the soil and to cover the drainage holes. Have did this for 40 years, on house plants also. Check with moisture meter every day. Good luck growing.
 
Well the moisture meter was a great tool to purchase. All though the girls appear to be happy, I think they were very dry (or so the meter said) I have been just using my finger to test moisture and clearly I have been mis-judging. Been watering every 3 days and don't think that is enough.

Thanks for the idea
Maui
 
Wow, no one stopped by for awhile. My girls got switched to the 12/12 light schedule yesterday (Friday). Time for the young ladies to put their finery on. Another 8-10 weeks to go. Then ....harvest time.
 
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