The Mega Crop Thread

[FelipeBlu]

I can’t recall what water you’re using @Deketx - RO or tap? If tap, do you have a water quality report?

 

[bluter]

morning guys, welcome to

The Mega Crop Primer.... buried in the thread.... pt. 2

what media types is this stuff good for ?

the short answer is anything that you can stick a plant in. mega crop is a hydro nute - meaning it is for any media that you would normally need to supply all, or the majority, of the nutrients needed to support the plant.

there are very few media or growing styles that mega crop can not lend itself to. there are board members using it in:

passive hydro - like coco or hempy
soil-less soils - like hp pro-mix and sunshine #4
dwc - great big bubble bucket
rdwc - great big bubble bucket with auto water system.
flood and drain - hydro mimicking a rice paddy - just for you @Jack420 ...

mega crop can even be used to supplement organic, and living organic soil grows, without fear of disrupting the microbial content organics rely on. makes it a good idea to have on hand if your organics get hungry later in the grow.


that's great, this stuff is organic ?

no. mega crop is not organic, but it is friendly with organics.. mega crop is vegan, which has nothing to do with wispy environmentalist lettuce eaters in this context. vegan means living organic systems are able to feed off it without any special chemical assistance. it is the amino-chelation which allows this.

think of vegan as the neighbour in the building who lives across the hall from organic....



what's the feed schedule like ?

mega crop can be measured out and mixed several different ways. by volume - teaspoon / table spoon, by weight - grams per gal or litre, or by ec/ppm/tds.

by default this board and the thread uses weight - g / gal, as the preferred method. it gives the most consistent mix from feed to feed, and is the easiest for board members to understand when trying to advise other folk. you can choose other methods, but you may be on your own as far as what you are getting in the mix, and weight will be the easiest to get used to.

it is recommended to use a small digital scale that will measure tenths (.1) of a gram, or 100ths (.01) of a gram. the same type of scale your dealer used to use. you remember that guy.. don't worry the memory will fade now you don't need him ... the scales cost about $12.

mc mix 1.JPG

• bluter
• Nov 21, 2019

mega crop mix step 1

fancy mega crop equipment...


the good news is greenleaf has a feed calculator on the mega crop website which will do all the maths for you when it comes to feeding levels. the better news is you can trust it. unlike typical bottled nutes, you do not have to cut the dosage in half or less to avoid burning the plants, as is the norm with bottled nutes.

all you have to do is plug your numbers in and the calculator will return what you should feed based on plant stage, and whether you prefer metric (L) or ancient imperial measurements (US gal)...

for the purposes of discussion in this thread, everyone converts to g/gal so we are on the same page.... sigh...

this is the mega crop feed schedule for g/gal - taken right from the MC site...

veg 1 seedling / small plants - 2.0g / gal
veg 2 normal veg - 4.0g / gal
veg 3 extended veg - 4.5g / gal

flower wk 1 - 2 - 5.0g / gal
flower wk 3 - 4 - 5.5g / gal
flower wk 5 - harvest - 6.0g/ gal


the feed schedule is the same for all versions of mega crop across all media types.


the next few posts will deal with how to grow with MC, ph rules, and some of the (unnecessarily) controversial stuff...

but again for now ....

 

[oldsmokey]

Awesome bluter! can't wait till your done and can see it all putt together in one place.

 

[Old Salt]

The gm/gallon figures are suggested starting points. I think many of us missed THE most important part of the instructions on the Greenleaf Nutrients website. I know I did, and had excess nitrogen, giving me dark green, shiny leaves.

Step 1 – Dialing In Nitrogen levels through MEGA CROP dosage by monitor your plants coloring:

• Pay close attention to the green coloring of your plants leaves. Nitrogen levels in MEGA CROP are strongly related to how green your plants leaves will appear
• If your plant leaves are light green or yellow, then increase your dosage of MEGA CROP to boost Nitrogen levels and increase green color
• If your plant leaves are too dark green and/or have burned tips, then scale back your MEGA CROP dosage to reduce the nitrogen.
• Your goal is to have the plants coloring to be a strong healthy green without burning, and you control this by increasing or decreasing the MEGA CROP dosage. If you are a new grower and not sure what color your plants should be at, browse the internet for pictures of healthy plants of your same type. You should make dosage changes for the first time in small amounts, for example changes of 10-20% increase or decrease only, and then waiting 2-3 weeks to monitor plant response after each change. Since the plant has to take time to uptake nutrients and process them, it may take 2-3 weeks to notice the results of the changes you made.

Step 2 – Dialing in your PK boost levels during bloom for maximum yields and resins:

• Once your have achieved proper base nutrient dosage through regulating Nitrogen, then during flowering/blooming phase you can optionally add in PK booster to increase harvest.
• PK Boosters like Bud Explosion have high amounts of P and K, and 0 (N)itrogen, so you can add them in during flowering without risking changing your plants Nitrogen levels
• This may take some time, but you can continually increase PK boosters over several harvests to monitor for increase weight and quality. As long as you do not notice plant damage from increasing the dosage, you can experiment by increasing the dosage, and monitoring the final end results/yields.
• Eventually you will find the dose that maximizes your results/yields, where adding more will not give additional benefit (saturation point).

 

[bluter]

Awesome bluter! can't wait till your done and can see it all putt together in one place.

thanks. listening to suggestions as well if any one feels there is something needs to be covered. there is a bunch to go. my goal is to keep it simpler for folk approaching the thread or growing for the first time.

 

[bluter]

The gm/gallon figures are suggested starting points. I think many of us missed THE most important part of the instructions on the Greenleaf Nutrients website. I know I did, and had excess nitrogen, giving me dark green, shiny leaves.

Step 1 – Dialing In Nitrogen levels through MEGA CROP dosage by monitor your plants coloring:

• Pay close attention to the green coloring of your plants leaves. Nitrogen levels in MEGA CROP are strongly related to how green your plants leaves will appear
• If your plant leaves are light green or yellow, then increase your dosage of MEGA CROP to boost Nitrogen levels and increase green color
• If your plant leaves are too dark green and/or have burned tips, then scale back your MEGA CROP dosage to reduce the nitrogen.
• Your goal is to have the plants coloring to be a strong healthy green without burning, and you control this by increasing or decreasing the MEGA CROP dosage. If you are a new grower and not sure what color your plants should be at, browse the internet for pictures of healthy plants of your same type. You should make dosage changes for the first time in small amounts, for example changes of 10-20% increase or decrease only, and then waiting 2-3 weeks to monitor plant response after each change. Since the plant has to take time to uptake nutrients and process them, it may take 2-3 weeks to notice the results of the changes you made.

Step 2 – Dialing in your PK boost levels during bloom for maximum yields and resins:

• Once your have achieved proper base nutrient dosage through regulating Nitrogen, then during flowering/blooming phase you can optionally add in PK booster to increase harvest.
• PK Boosters like Bud Explosion have high amounts of P and K, and 0 (N)itrogen, so you can add them in during flowering without risking changing your plants Nitrogen levels
• This may take some time, but you can continually increase PK boosters over several harvests to monitor for increase weight and quality. As long as you do not notice plant damage from increasing the dosage, you can experiment by increasing the dosage, and monitoring the final end results/yields.
• Eventually you will find the dose that maximizes your results/yields, where adding more will not give additional benefit (saturation point).

excellent. that was the next post. you're getting ahead lol...

the pk boost kind of needs a separate area. it has led new folk down dangerous ways previously. was going to mod that info for our board..

 

[DeeCee112]

So, all plants have been flushed yet discoloring remains and continues. So let's play name that lockout. Plants show different discoloring so I believe I have diff deficiency issues. Great right.... Here's a few pics tell me what you think. The first two pics are of the same plant, the rest are of different plants.

Hey man there was a fairly heated argument about how to help your plants. So you went with the flush and back off the MC DOSAGE if I remember banking on it being a calcium excess locking out K?

Has it been long enough after flushing and adjusting to conclude It unsuccessful?

..did someone mention PH of the media...once or twice...? I wish I could remember who
...

I would suggest you see what @MrSauga said as he had an entirely different approach that may work.

 

[MrSauga]

..did someone mention PH of the media...once or twice...? I wish I could remember who

Cold could still be the issue as farside mentioned and I don't know what his temps were.
By mixing an LOS soil and FFOF together and possibly with a high alkaline water his pH has been altered which to me has caused issues. It's just a theory but you need to start what logically makes sense and check them off as they are proven wrong.

I wrote to GLN recently about Ca content and the chances of overfeeding to the point of having a Ca toxicity and this was their response:

Ca toxicity is really kind of an unheard of issue for growing plants, especially if you are using our nutrients. So I think it must be something else!

It's what I and others have been trying to state from the beginning that MC alone will not cause a buildup of Ca to create a lockout.

 

[Old Salt]

The shiny, dark green leaves are yelling, too much magnesium and nitrogen.
The yellow leaves at the middle and top, and burnt tips and margins shout an excess of potassium, and phosphorus.

Edit: Start with a soil slurry test to determine your soil's pH. It's not difficult to do. When we have that number, we can give better advice.

 

[bluter]

The shiny, dark green leaves are yelling, too much magnesium and nitrogen.
The yellow leaves at the middle and top, and burnt tips and margins shout an excess of potassium, and phosphorus.

it looks like the extreme end of mixing flat out light feeding heavy indica alongside heavier feeding hybrids or sativa.
i've done it myself as i'm too lazy to tailor feed to individual plants / strains.

both kinda look bad as result of searching for a one size fits all mix.

 

[Momma's Kitchen]

Just a shout out saying thanks for all your hard work putting this together for us to learn from. Thank you

 

[bluter]

Just a shout out saying thanks for all your hard work putting this together for us to learn from. Thank you

it's a collective.

 

[DeeCee112]

My tent runs at 16-18 (60 to 64F) degrees at lights out. It was a problem during veg that slowed me down and may have been the cause of a few issues I thought were other things...but in flower it hasn't caused me any troubles even close to what he's seeing.

Not saying it isn't contributing though

 

[DeeCee112]

The shiny, dark green leaves are yelling, too much magnesium and nitrogen.
The yellow leaves at the middle and top, and burnt tips and margins shout an excess of potassium, and phosphorus.

Edit: Start with a soil slurry test to determine your soil's pH. It's not difficult to do. When we have that number, we can give better advice.

I fully agree! I don't have much experience but I had issues this grow where I panicked and tried a whole bunch of things all at once, flush, change nutrients, less light, more light, ect and I spun my wheels and got nowhere until I calmed down and tried one thing at a time.

As a new grower I found it very overwhelming to get a whole bunch of advice at once especially if going to other sites or sources as well and then you can kind of throw the kitchen sink at it and make things worse.

 

[bluter]

delete ?

 

[FelipeBlu]

I wrote to GLN recently about Ca content and the chances of overfeeding to the point of having a Ca toxicity and this was their response:

Ca toxicity is really kind of an unheard of issue for growing plants, especially if you are using our nutrients. So I think it must be something else!

It's what I and others have been trying to state from the beginning that MC alone will not cause a buildup of Ca to create a lockout.

Not necessarily Ca toxicity, but excessive Ca in the medium (e.g. from high ppm water, low transpiration, unnecessary use of CalMag, etc.), can certainly compete with P, K, Mg, Fe, Mn, Zn, and B, causing multiple deficiencies.

Excessive N can compete with K, causing K def.

 

[Jack420]

morning guys, welcome to

The Mega Crop Primer.... buried in the thread.... pt. 2

what media types is this stuff good for ?

the short answer is anything that you can stick a plant in. mega crop is a hydro nute - meaning it is for any media that you would normally need to supply all, or the majority, of the nutrients needed to support the plant.

there are very few media or growing styles that mega crop can not lend itself to. there are board members using it in:

passive hydro - like coco or hempy
soil-less soils - like hp pro-mix and sunshine #4
dwc - great big bubble bucket
rdwc - great big bubble bucket with auto water system.
flood and drain - hydro mimicking a rice paddy - just for you @Jack420 ...

mega crop can even be used to supplement organic, and living organic soil grows, without fear of disrupting the microbial content organics rely on. makes it a good idea to have on hand if your organics get hungry later in the grow.


that's great, this stuff is organic ?

no. mega crop is not organic, but it is friendly with organics.. mega crop is vegan, which has nothing to do with wispy environmentalist lettuce eaters in this context. vegan means living organic systems are able to feed off it without any special chemical assistance. it is the amino-chelation which allows this.

think of vegan as the neighbour in the building who lives across the hall from organic....



what's the feed schedule like ?

mega crop can be measured out and mixed several different ways. by volume - teaspoon / table spoon, by weight - grams per gal or litre, or by ec/ppm/tds.

by default this board and the thread uses weight - g / gal, as the preferred method. it gives the most consistent mix from feed to feed, and is the easiest for board members to understand when trying to advise other folk. you can choose other methods, but you may be on your own as far as what you are getting in the mix, and weight will be the easiest to get used to.

it is recommended to use a small digital scale that will measure tenths (.1) of a gram, or 100ths (.01) of a gram. the same type of scale your dealer used to use. you remember that guy.. don't worry the memory will fade now you don't need him ... the scales cost about $12.

mc mix 1.JPG

• bluter
• Nov 21, 2019

mega crop mix step 1

fancy mega crop equipment...


the good news is greenleaf has a feed calculator on the mega crop website which will do all the maths for you when it comes to feeding levels. the better news is you can trust it. unlike typical bottled nutes, you do not have to cut the dosage in half or less to avoid burning the plants, as is the norm with bottled nutes.

all you have to do is plug your numbers in and the calculator will return what you should feed based on plant stage, and whether you prefer metric (L) or ancient imperial measurements (US gal)...

for the purposes of discussion in this thread, everyone converts to g/gal so we are on the same page.... sigh...

this is the mega crop feed schedule for g/gal - taken right from the MC site...

veg 1 seedling / small plants - 2.0g / gal
veg 2 normal veg - 4.0g / gal
veg 3 extended veg - 4.5g / gal

flower wk 1 - 2 - 5.0g / gal
flower wk 3 - 4 - 5.5g / gal
flower wk 5 - harvest - 6.0g/ gal


the feed schedule is the same for all versions of mega crop across all media types.


the next few posts will deal with how to grow with MC, ph rules, and some of the (unnecessarily) controversial stuff...

but again for now ....

Hahahha thanks for the tutorial amazing brother

 

[732002]

Bluter
"mega crop can even be used to supplement organic, and living organic soil grows, without fear of disrupting the microbial content organics rely on. makes it a good idea to have on hand if your organics get hungry later in the grow."

Good to know, I was unaware of this.

I'm five weeks into a auto and have been letting promix HP dry out between feeds, at this age should I be feeding more often and not letting it get so dry?

 

[Deketx]

What did you flush with and how much? Did you PH your flush water? Tap water,distilled? I’m more curious about temps and humidity in your tent than what you are feeding.

I flushed with tap, distilled would have been cost prohibitive for 8 plants in 5gal. When I water I use tap through a britta filter or distilled if I have it. The temps are in the low 70's and the humidity is low. I grow in a large room, no tent, just partitions I made to enclose the plants.
As far as ph, couldn't tell you. I'll have to get a ph meter. Having many diff strains sounds like a great idea until they all do and want some thing different.

 

[Old Salt]

Having many diff strains sounds like a great idea until they all do and want some thing different.

That's why I try keep my tents serially monogamous to date. There can be only one strain at a time per tent.