The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Gee64]

I was rereading The Rev's book and he claims either is fine. I did see he says to use less of the powdered but that could just be a comparable weight thing.

What, in your mind, is/are the significant difference(s)?

Every time I use powdered it gets ugly. I think it's just to available. So I don't mess with it anymore.

Not that great tbh.

The mother I was trying to save got pushed over the edge by the 1x flush so that was the first casualty.

The smaller plants are all showing N deficiencies but that may have more to do with the change of feed than the flush. About a week before the flush I decided to switch from my liquid JLF's to top dressing my dry crumbles and my guess is that between the time it takes to have those organic inputs broken down enough to matter, and the time it takes for the microbe infrastructure to reorganize itself to deliver the newly available nutes, a lag of at least 2-3 weeks is likely.

For sure. TBH i would cook crumbles in, not top dress with them. Similar to green meals.

I'm just getting to the end of that period and it doesn't look like things are getting worse so I'm assuming the system is stabilizing and ginormous growth is dead ahead.

We'll see.

Once brix get over 12 the plant is properly healthy. You are almost there.

The flush took a week plus to work off given the water bank stored in the soil. I just did the second top watering after adding my top dressing, and did add a little to the reservoir to keep those roots doing their thing. But I'll plan on keeping the soil much less wet than I have been.

. As the plants take a deep breath..... finally

That's a tough question. My meter is one of those double probe jobbies and the directions say not to put them near rocks which is near impossible to do given the 30% hydroton in my mix. So I can't just slide it in and take readings wherever I want. Instead I have to try multiple places at different levels to even get a reading which is a real pain. I'm planning to get a single stick probe version and, between that and the switch to perlite, things should be easier to monitor going forward.

Don't be cheap! Go to the dollar store and buy a few single probe water only ones.

Add to that that I have to keep my canopy very low and access to test locations is spotty at best.

The plants are still getting used to their new reality so what level they're happiest at is unknowable at this point, but they seem happy enough at lower levels on the meter. Down in the 4-6 level I don't see any wilting and my guess is the microbes are much happier down there, but that will be something I'll have to learn over time.

That's the bright spot as an 11 reading was seen yesterday. Maybe I'll be able to leave bugs behind me.

Next reading Buddy. Stay the course. I know it's foreign but soon it will be habit.

I still need a better process to extract that one damn drop of sap from the leaves. What a complete pain in the ass! And that's not something I'll likely be doing very often if I can't get it done easier, so any tips there would be much appreciated.

Put the ball of leaves between 2 dimes or nickels or electrical slugs and squeeze it with pliers or vice grips.

I haven't actually done dolo water yet. I used my WCA and got a flush of calcium spots and haven't tried it again as I've been doing some reading on The Rev's calcium water. Don't seem to be getting new spots so that could have been a one off.

How was your brix line, crisp or fuzzy?

I could mix up a batch using the powdered version, but the prilled I'll have to order which I haven't done yet since I'm still pondering my course of action.

Get the prilled. It's better. You don't need more variables, you need less.

The plant just flipped 3 weeks ago had the calcium spot issue, but now seems to be cranking along and that's the one I got the 11 on.

It's breathing.

I do have my next plant in my new mix (perlite replaced hydroton) that I just up potted to its flowering container so that one will be a better test as I can run it with less water from the start.

You bet! Brix is best when at least 17 before flip. That means you are dialed and ahead on P. Watch the line, if it starts to get crisp you are dwindling on calcium, it will all crash.

That one's a seedling of a CBG plant (for a guy that doesn't grow seedlings I sure seem to be growing a lot of them all of a sudden) so I'll see what differences I can observe with lower water levels early on.

Things seem to have stabilized. No new calcium spots, the N issue does not seem to be spreading so I feel I may be getting to the end of the transition process and results from here on will give me a better sense as to what the new combination of things is capable of.

The calendar says you should be almost converted. Brix seems to agree. 1 more week, follow the brix.

 

[Azimuth]

2 dimes in vise grips works too

That's what I do, only quarters. I had used nickels but figured I'd spring for the more expensive pair. You know, more is better and all that...

 

[Azimuth]

For sure. TBH i would cook crumbles in, not top dress with them. Similar to green meals.

The plan is to bring them in via my castings but that process takes a while to play through. I should check my notes as I think I started it late last fall so the first batch should be just about done as i go about 6 months per bucket.

But even so, I didn't decide to divert my harvest to mostly crumbles until very late so my supply went mostly to my JLF's. This season most will go to my crumbles and some fresh directly to the worm bins and compost pile.

Once brix get over 12 the plant is properly healthy. You are almost there.

I'll bet that will also help with terpenes. I don't get a lot of smells in mine so that would be an added bonus. Healthier plants equal better medicine.

Put the ball of leaves between 2 dimes or nickels or electrical slugs and squeeze it with pliers or vice grips

That is what I do but maybe I don't work them enough in my fingers first. I can see them change to a darker color as the (hint of) "juices" start to get liberated.

I'll keep trying and I'm sure I'll find something that works for me.

Howcwas your brix line, crisp or fuzzy?

Nice and fuzzy. First time I think. Almost didn't recognize it.

Get the prilled. It's better. You don't need more variables, you need less.

Ok, fine!

And yes, I agree, less variables would be better.

 

[Gee64]

That's what I do, only quarters. I had used nickels but figured I'd spring for the more expensive pair. You know, more is better and all that...

And your worth it

 

[Gee64]

The plan is to bring them in via my castings but that process takes a while to play through. I should check my notes as I think I started it late last fall so the first batch should be just about done as i go about 6 months per bucket.

But even so, I didn't decide to divert my harvest to mostly crumbles until very late so my supply went mostly to my JLF's. This season most will go to my crumbles and some fresh directly to the worm bins and compost pile.


I'll bet that will also help with terpenes. I don't get a lot of smells in mine so that would be an added bonus. Healthier plants equal better medicine.


That is what I do but maybe I don't work them enough in my fingers first. I can see them change to a darker color as the (hint of) "juices" start to get liberated.

I'll keep trying and I'm sure I'll find something that works for me.


Nice and fuzzy. First time I think. Almost didn't recognize it.


Ok, fine!

And yes, I agree, less variables would be better.

Ok Azi, your ready for this now before you get side tracked. Your efforts at 420 are deserving of a Member of the Year Award so here is my gift to you

I told you that you were closer than you think. Don't let your experiment loving brain get you in trouble yet. I want to remind you of something I mentioned in Keff's 1st journal when I met you all.

"Most people actually know more than they think, but in organics the hard part is the synergy. "

It's not in any books or on youtube (Rabenberg is the exception, so is Rev but Rev gets off on cryptic. I still love the guy tho).

You know more about growing in general, than pretty much any member here. You know all the pieces. You just don't know how to put them together yet.

Thats what I'm showing you now, and brix is a measure of synergy. Anyone telling you different doesn't understand organics.

At the end of the day you mix dirt and water, plant a seed, and add light. Thats it. So why do some excel without trying and why do some fail after trying so hard?

Synergy.

You put everything required in the dirt, turn on the sun, and add water. Then you synergize it with the correct ratios of the 5 parts. It's only 5 parts, thats why complete idiots can do so well.

Carbon, oxygen, calcium, phosphorus, and beneficial aerobic soil microbes.

We have learned about calcium and all the hats it wears, carbon and the hats it wears, P just happens, add it in the beginning and never worry about it again, microbes(myco is lumped in here) we all know about, and now we learn how to regulate O2 by water content. Thats it.

Water and O2 share the same space. You need to use water content to regulate air, and let soil carbon be your reservoir to let the plants drink from. Watering mixes food into soup and soil carbon absorbs the soup.

Extra water restricts air and things slow down. Water is a governor. Once the carbon is charged you want all excess water to drip out. Hence the root drench. We charged your carbon.

So how you feed the soil, whether it be jadam/knf, or the things on Rev's list, or completely different inputs is irrelevant, as long as it's a balanced meal. Synergy puts it all together.

Practice the synergy for 2 full grows start to finish and don't worry about sipping during that period. Trust me here.

Use your sip pots just don't think of it as sipping.

Learn how the pieces flow, then reintroduce Sips and make it work.

I actually gave you the answer in the Sips thread and only 1 person enquired as to what the hell I was talking about. Its in there. 1 sentence.

Sips are an H20/O2 regulator, a carburator. It isn't a tank of water, it's a reservoir attached to a fuel injection system.

The trick is all in how you refill the reservoir and mix the fuel. If you want soup in your carbon you need soup in the res.

Why would you dump fuel down the air intake hole to fill the tank, thus bypassing all the additives fuel must be mixed with in order to burn clean?

One reason. You broke the golden rule of organics, you mixed synthetics and organics. Never do that.

If you insist on using raw water in the res you need to mix in synthetics. Your synergy in your mind has a flaw here. You aren't alone. Its very common.

If you pour your water into the soil to mix with all the food you so painstakingly learned to create, and let it charge the soil carbon on it's way to the res, the res fills with balanced soup and it will burn clean.

Synthetics - water goes down the fill tube.

Organics - water must mix with soil before entering the res.

Don't break the golden rule and synergy happens.

 

[Azimuth]

Practice the synergy for 2 full grows start to finish and don't worry about sipping during that period. Trust me here.

Use your sip pots just don't think of it as sipping.

Learn how the pieces flow, then reintroduce Sips and make it work.

What I had been planning with this and the next grow was to make the weekly top watering the main watering and then add to the reservoir when the meter said the tank was getting low just enough to get back to Saturday, but you're saying all water should get filtered through the mix.

Since I don't want to be adding small amounts up top I'll need to figure out how much water to give up top so that whatever ends up in the reservoir isn't more than the plant needs in that week, or the next three days, or whatever time period. That sound better than the original plan?

Sips are an H20/O2 regulator, a carburator. It isn't a tank of water, it's a reservoir attached to a fuel injection system.

The trick is all in how you refill the reservoir and mix the fuel. If you want soup in your carbon you need soup in the res.

Why would you dump fuel down the air intake hole to fill the tank, thus bypassing all the additives fuel must be mixed with in order to burn clean?

One reason. You broke the golden rule of organics, you mixed synthetics and organics. Never do that.

If you insist on using raw water in the res you need to mix in synthetics. Your synergy in your mind has a flaw here. You aren't alone. Its very common.

If you pour your water into the soil to mix with all the food you so painstakingly learned to create, and let it charge the soil carbon on it's way to the res, the res fills with balanced soup and it will burn clean.

Synthetics - water goes down the fill tube.

Organics - water must mix with soil before entering the res.

Don't break the golden rule and synergy happens

I was actually thinking along those lines with my reservoir addendum strategy. I was thinking that maintaing a certain level in the reservoir would keep the moisture level at some minimum amount but that was also not too much, so I was going to experiment with different reservoir heights to try to maintain that ideal.

But that sounds like it's out the window, at least for now, although I may find that level out in a backhanded way by watering top down.

So, I'm not opposed to all water from the top from here.

I told you that you were closer than you think. Don't let your experiment loving brain get you in trouble yet.

One experiment I was planning next was to my soil mix that I have to put together next weekend. Given my seemingly over wet soil I was thinking about two adjustments to my mix which is currently the Coots Mix(ish), 3 parts old soil, 3 parts organics (compost, castings, coco, dried leaves), 3 parts aeration (perlite), and one part biochar.

The first change is swapping one part of the organics for one more part perlite. I have been researching and the standard recommended max level of organics from many of the soil scientists seems to be about 25% so I would be under that and,

Second I am going to move the biochar part over to the amendments section and treat it similarly. So, rather than a full liter in the soil I would add 2-4 tablespoons. I still want it in there for its benefits (good cec input, good microbe habitat, good moisture storing), but want to decrease its affect on water retention.

Both of these adjustments should help with the aeration and drainage of the soil which i think we both agree is likely the majority of my issues. I could just let the mix be and try it in subsequent rounds but I think I'd prefer being too dry for a change rather than too wet.

All of the inputs would remain the same, I'd just put them together in a slightly different way to improve aeration.

Any objections?

 

[Gee64]

What I had been planning with this and the next grow was to make the weekly top watering the main watering and then add to the reservoir when the meter said the tank was getting low just enough to get back to Saturday, but you're saying all water should get filtered through the mix.

Only in the future when you start a new plant. You need to get these ones thru. They expect water from the bottom too. I would go 2 from the top at 12.5% pot size, then one res full, or even half full. Do it when the water stick tells you to. Monitor it with brix for progress.

Since I don't want to be adding small amounts up top I'll need to figure out how much water to give up top so that whatever ends up in the reservoir isn't more than the plant needs in that week, or the next three days, or whatever time period. That sound better than the original plan?

12.5%

I was actually thinking along those lines with my reservoir addendum strategy. I was thinking that maintaing a certain level in the reservoir would keep the moisture level at some minimum amount but that was also not too much, so I was going to experiment with different reservoir heights to try to maintain that ideal.

The res should go dry until the water stick says its time to water. If you fill the res and then the soil is too wet 8-12 hours later, you added too much to the res.

But that sounds like it's out the window, at least for now, although I may find that level out in a backhanded way by watering top down.

Bingo. That was the whole point behind me asking you to try this. You may not want to see the full potential of your potions and such, but I do

So, I'm not opposed to all water from the top from here.

Brix is backing this theory already. Your brix is up 120%. 120%!

One experiment I was planning next was to my soil mix that I have to put together next weekend. Given my seemingly over wet soil I was thinking about two adjustments to my mix which is currently the Coots Mix(ish), 3 parts old soil, 3 parts organics (compost, castings, coco, dried leaves), 3 parts aeration (perlite), and one part biochar.

The first change is swapping one part of the organics for one more part perlite. I have been researching and the standard recommended max level of organics from many of the soil scientists seems to be about 25% so I would be under that and,

Second I am going to move the biochar part over to the amendments section and treat it similarly. So, rather than a full liter in the soil I would add 2-4 tablespoons. I still want it in there for its benefits (good cec input, good microbe habitat, good moisture storing), but want to decrease its affect on water retention.

I wouldn't use biochar, but thats just me. under 5% of pot size so a few tbsp is fine, but humate is better.

As long as water isn't too wet, your good.

But your current mix is almost high brix in 2 weeks. I wouldn't change yet. You may have fantastic soil already. Give it time until brix stalls.

Both of these adjustments should help with the aeration and drainage of the soil which i think we both agree is likely the majority of my issues.

Sips are your issues. You are using it synthetic style.

I could just let the mix be and try it in subsequent rounds but I think I'd prefer being too dry for a change rather than too wet.

Let it be until it stalls. Then see where you need to adjust. It will dry out if you follow the water stick not your brain.

All of the inputs would remain the same, I'd just put them together in a slightly different way to improve aeration.

Better areation is good, but it takes up space in a small pot.

Any objections?

Yes, don't change anything until brix stalls.
You have no baseline yet. Patience is the fastest way.

Dude your soil is good, otherwise you wouldn't be at 11 in under 2 weeks with a fuzzy calcium line, it's just overwatered. 1 more brix and you no longer have bug issues, ride it out.

You have 2 years into it, give it 2 more weeks before you judge it.

How good? Lets find out before you change it.

Quote of the Day:

"Don't let your experiment loving brain get you in trouble yet."

 

[Gee64]

So for Azi's sake directly, and all other sippers too, there's a burning question you all must have.

"Why does Sipping work so damn well until stretch is over and then go cowshit?"

The answer is tied to nitrogen.

Nitrogen is protein, protein is amino's.

Think of aminos as Lego blocks. You have a box with every lego block ever made. Millions of each and none stuck together. When you stick a few together to make something new, like a car, thats a protein.

Microbes can pull the proteins apart to make the car into anything else but it's limited to whats in the car, not the box. So you need soil nitrogen and atmospheric nitrogen over a plants lifetime.

Carbohydrates power cells. They are fuel. Cells are factories that make things out of aminos/proteins. Browns are carbs, greens are proteins.

From now on when I say proteins, amino/proteins is implied.

So to answer the question.

"Why does Sipping work so damn well until stretch is over and then go cowshit?"

Veg is the time we grow foliage, it requires massive amounts of lego blocks. Stretch even more. You use tons of nitrogen, both atmospheric and from greens.

The assimilation of nitrogen requires huge amounts of water and it needs to stay in the plant longer, so Sips which supply vast quantities of water, are fantastic thru veg and stretch.

Once stretch is over the plants requirements for nitrogen, thus water too, plummets. So now all that water is in the way when the plant needs air for flower.

The problem is, if you let the Sip dry down now, it bites you because you built a veg machine with massive water roots that grew a huge robust plant, and now if you stop the over watering the plant needs 2 weeks to develop feeder roots.

It's exactly the same as a Sip stall at 1st uppotting, just building different types of roots. You only have 8-10 weeks for flower, 3 were used for stretch, so 5-7 weeks left.

If 2 are used up for stall time you get 3-5 weeks for flower. You lose 40% flower time. All that veg for a low yield. A smaller plant with feeder roots will now grow more flowers than a huge Sipper that loses 40% of it's flower time. Denser buds too. Better terpenes as well.

Nitrogen requires a huge amount of water, flower requires a huge amount of air.

The remedy.... fill the reservoir thru the soil so feeder roots are established early, and the runoff caught in the res will recharge the soil carbon.

Don't refill the res again (thru the soil or the filler tube) until the soil is dry enough to need watering.

Think of your filler tube as an air intake, because it is. It's not a water intake unless you are using synthetics.

To allow more water in the plant in veg you simply raise RH so it moves thru the plant slower instead of overwatering to try to keep up to what nitrogen requires for water needs.

Thats why you lower RH in flower, to lower nitrogen intake. Once the plant is built you only need a few lego blocks to build terpenes and resin.

Too much water in flower raises nitrogen, brix crash, and bugs move in.

It's counter intuitive to the plant so it's DNA/RNA takes over, and it releases terpenes to tell bugs it's sick and needs to commit suicide to become compost so it's siblings can use that space to try to perpetuate the lineage.

Synthetics can't create strong brix because without live soil, exudates aren't required, so the plant tries to commit suicide and humans start to defend the sick plant with bug spray. Too much water is the same.

As Azi just found out, a great looking beautiful plant isn't nescessarily healthy on the inside.

If you have bugs your plant has decided it's health isn't good enough to reproduce healthy offspring.

So back to basics... Most plants are loved to death via overwatering.

Now go read Emilya's "How to water a plant" thread with this in mind and make your Sip promote health and feeder roots, not demote health and hydroponic roots, or switch to synthetics and "get hydro results from a soil based medium."

LOS doesn't use water roots in annuals, only perrenials put down a water tap. Then they put out feeder roots up top in the surface zone where leaves fall.

Cannabis is an annual vegetable. It's "tap root" is for support to grow huge in 1 season without falling over.

Or just switch to cloth pots. They are designed to build feeder roots and are a much bigger air chamber, they just dry out quicker.

 

[Gee64]

Have you folks noticed that I pretty much never discuss N-P-K, unless it's tied to a specific subject?

Yet I type thousands of words about carbon and calcium?

Thats because once you build and cook your soil N-P-K becomes a moot point. If your soil is conditioned NPK just happens. (provided you used a good recipe)

Calcium and carbon condition the soil, Fish ferts condition myco. EWC maintains soil conditioning. Carbon holds moisture. Calcium sets PH and tilth.

I mention magnesium a bit because it regulates calcium, but I never mention it as a food. If it is in balance with calcium to condition the soil properly, both mag and cal are available for consumption too.

NPK sits below it in the pot. Add water and air and it works. Microbes flourish and poop lots.

Water brings calcium down, mixes with poop, and absorbs into carbon to be drank over the next few days.

Excess water needs to be removed to bring in air so microbes can attach oxygen molecules to NPK so the plant knows that it is food.

No air... no eating, even if food is everywhere.

Myco will run the whole show if you stay out of it's way and don't overwater.

You don't need to know anything else unless you are curious. Keff comes to mind here .

 

[StoneOtter]

Do you wear your wizard hat around the house? Your wife must laugh!

 

[Gee64]

Do you wear your wizard hat around the house? Your wife must laugh!

Lol she just sits in the garden and reaps the rewards. Smokes a doobie. Does her art. Lives the good life of a Gal who got to retire at 40.

She's my Hot Queen

I'm her nerd.

 

[Gee64]

I have always had the unique ability to look at a process and determine the outcome. I get paid to solve problems.

Processes are easy to fix. Changing the minds of those who will die trying to make a flawed process work because they think it should work the way they want it to, thats hard.

You need to become a common folk and share in the flawed process and then slowly "discover" pieces. Then include the flawed process owners in the "discovered" discoveries so they accept them and allow change. Tweaks with explanations.

Only Keff knows that I purposely sabotage my own grows (now you all do too) to not seem snobbish, and slowly initiate the change to everyone understanding how organics works, which is rarely how they want it to work. He giggles a lot.

You can't tell people anything unless you are willing to show them. Proof is always in the pudding. People strive really hard to get to where they are at, and they get defensive of their position, as they should.

So you have to be patient and gentle and hold hands until they get comfortable with what you are showing them. One step at a time and when you get to the end of the process it makes safe sense. Everyone moves at different speeds.

Then they see it the lights start to come on.

I also have a unique way of dummying shit down to the level that makes sense. Turn on a few lights at a time so people can see hope and get excited about the future without overwhelming them. It stirs ingenuity in them.

I love growing anything. It's my passion. You guys do too. I hate to see frustration in people trying to enjoy their passion. Thats why trolls piss me off. They need to be stomped immediately.

My wife understands this. She's a very talented multi disciplined artist that follows no rules. She's my Ying, I'm her Yang. I love rules.

And now you all can go enjoy your passion a little more and get creative with it after you practice and get familiar with it. Creativity is a beautiful thing. .

I demand pictures in return. Jus sayin...

Azi gets a hall pass but he has given me 2 so far. So thats something

That's why I built Gee Spot. It's perpetual so no accolades can get into my banner, and it keeps me common. Thats where the fun is.

My texting thumb may have a different perspective here, but Thumby just needs to suck it up!

 

[Jon]

I have always had the unique ability to look at a process and determine the outcome. I get paid to solve problems.

Processes are easy to fix. Changing the minds of those who will die trying to make a flawed process work because they think it should work the way they want it to, thats hard.

You need to become a common folk and share in the flawed process and then slowly "discover" pieces. Then include the flawed process owners in the "discovered" discoveries so they accept them and allow change. Tweaks with explanations.

Only Keff knows that I purposely sabotage my own grows (now you all do too) to not seem snobbish, and slowly initiate the change to everyone understanding how organics works, which is rarely how they want it to work. He giggles a lot.

You can't tell people anything unless you are willing to show them. Proof is always in the pudding. People strive really hard to get to where they are at, and they get defensive of their position, as they should.

So you have to be patient and gentle and hold hands until they get comfortable with what you are showing them. One step at a time and when you get to the end of the process it makes safe sense. Everyone moves at different speeds.

Then they see it the lights start to come on.

I also have a unique way of dummying shit down to the level that makes sense. Turn on a few lights at a time so people can see hope and get excited about the future without overwhelming them. It stirs ingenuity in them.

I love growing anything. It's my passion. You guys do too. I hate to see frustration in people trying to enjoy their passion. Thats why trolls piss me off. They need to be stomped immediately.

My wife understands this. She's a very talented multi disciplined artist that follows no rules. She's my Ying, I'm her Yang. I love rules.

And now you all can go enjoy your passion a little more and get creative with it after you practice and get familiar with it. Creativity is a beautiful thing. .

I demand pictures in return. Jus sayin...

Azi gets a hall pass but he has given me 2 so far. So thats something

That's why I built Gee Spot. It's perpetual so no accolades can get into my banner, and it keeps me common. Thats where the fun is.

My texting thumb may have a different perspective here, but Thumby just needs to suck it up!

This is cool, but I might rib you a little about this:

Only Keff knows that I purposely sabotage my own grows (now you all do too) to not seem snobbish

Are you sure this is not just an excuse to cover up your every mistake? If you actually do sabotage your own grows, jeez man, at least show us one “non-sabotaged” plant on the side! It would be cool to see you drop all your worry about us and educating and what not for one plant and show us the very best you got as an organic expert. I’d like to see a let it fly plant anyway.

Heh.

 

[Jon]

So @Gee64, here’s my other house plant masterpiece. I grew this from a cutting off the landscape plants out front of the house. You talk of Brix and that some plants even at higher Brix numbers may still be susceptible to a critter or two who is particularly hardy or whatever. This plant I believe is right on that edge. She is roaring healthy as you see. But I have to work pretty hard for a house plant to keep her this healthy. And if she dips even slightly below the level of health you see here, they come at her with no mercy, especially the leaf miners. They seem to be the worst pest in terms of attacking anything that grows. To keep her this way I’ve found it is key to keep her right where she is in terms of the number of fronds you see. Any more, she starts to go south slowly. I believe that’s related to the size of the pot? But this is her sweet spot. From cutting to this was only a matter of way less than a year. Months. She grows fast and I have to constantly trim new growth. These fronds are old. Fwiw!

 

[Gee64]

This is cool, but I might rib you a little about this:

Only Keff knows that I purposely sabotage my own grows (now you all do too) to not seem snobbish

Are you sure this is not just an excuse to cover up your every mistake? If you actually do sabotage your own grows, jeez man, at least show us one “non-sabotaged” plant on the side! It would be cool to see you drop all your worry about us and educating and what not for one plant and show us the very best you got as an organic expert. I’d like to see a let it fly plant anyway.

Heh.

The double calcium was a stoner mistake, my intention was to do Matt proud.

Guilty as charged, but fixing it with a root wash is something I have done many times so I turned it into a demo and played dumb.

Just dust the roots with myco and DO NOT let them dry out, and plant them into sloppy wet soil to dry down and it works well.

Sometimes you need to get drastic to save a plant. We have all screwed up but you can salvage the plant if the roots aren't burnt yet.

 

[Gee64]

I will, but that takes 6 months of time away from the folks figuring it out. I spent over a year just vegging til everyone was ready to flower. Now we all have the full process.

It's time to build some soil tomorrow and try to go from start to finish on 1st run soil. There will be quirks as it's 1st run, but you guys know how to fix them now. So in a month or so when the soil is cooked it's Go Time on some TMSC's.

The DP grow saw 1st run quirks and manifold buds. The failed light twice wasn't planned but we adjusted and got some primo buds.

I owe Matt some good flower.

Tomorrow I build soil.

 

[Gee64]

The Gaia project was to show how everyday soil with everyday growers can work if you are ready for a rescue, and how to do it.

It had cal and food def's. That's what everyone battles. Icky and Mutey are ugly but the colas are great. And we did some cloning just to show that clones suck. But everyone wants to know how. They never develop proper leaf amounts.

All you need is some good carbon soil and some organic flower food and some calcium. Then some myco and fish ferts and a water stick. Cloth pots make it all work better.

No high tech involved at all.

Seed programming is new to me tho, so thats truly interesting, if it works.

 

[Gee64]

So @Gee64, here’s my other house plant masterpiece. I grew this from a cutting off the landscape plants out front of the house. You talk of Brix and that some plants even at higher Brix numbers may still be susceptible to a critter or two who is particularly hardy or whatever. This plant I believe is right on that edge. She is roaring healthy as you see. But I have to work pretty hard for a house plant to keep her this healthy. And if she dips even slightly below the level of health you see here, they come at her with no mercy, especially the leaf miners. They seem to be the worst pest in terms of attacking anything that grows. To keep her this way I’ve found it is key to keep her right where she is in terms of the number of fronds you see. Any more, she starts to go south slowly. I believe that’s related to the size of the pot? But this is her sweet spot. From cutting to this was only a matter of way less than a year. Months. She grows fast and I have to constantly trim new growth. These fronds are old. Fwiw!

Its a beauty. My guess is 2 things. Clones never do as well, they have no tap root, and her rootball can't feed any more than what she is. Uppot her if you want her bigger, or plant her in the ground.

 

[Jon]

Its a beauty. My guess is 2 things. Clones never do as well, they have no tap root, and her rootball can't feed any more than what she is. Uppot her if you want her bigger, or plant her in the ground.

Ah! More evidence of the clones suck thing and why. Awesome. I hate how long it takes one to become looking like a real plant again. I always grow from seed. A 60 day veg from seed looks way better than a clone planted 60 days prior. I knew that much.

 

[Jon]

Ah! More evidence of the clones suck thing and why. Awesome. I hate how long it takes one to become looking like a real plant again. I always grow from seed. A 60 day veg from seed looks way better than a clone planted 60 days prior. I knew that much.

It does beg a question though. I’m sure we would agree that the only way to do legit comparison stuff on a strain is with clones, yes? So if they suck as you say (ok, I buy that easy), is there ANY way around using clones to do a legit comparison? I’d love to do one with the Skywalker. But I hate clones. Lmao.