The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

It's all way more complicated than my post to Jon and to Carmen but you don't need to know the complications, if you have balance then Mother Nature takes care of everything.

Trust her and enjoy the grow. Follow a balanced reputable recipe and trust it. See what happens. If a deficiency pops up then analyse but until then just sit back and have fun.

If you trust the mix all you need to worry about is teas, conditioners, and top dressings. EWC is all 3 of those so it becomes the most important thing once the grow has started, and hydrolysed fish ferts are for the myco, which is the soil/microbe manager who works directly for the plant with no middle man between it and the plant.

So feed the microbes in a manner that makes healthy plant friendly balanced poop, and feed the myco. It all runs on a layer of carbon and calcium supplies the electricity, magnesium keeps things in check. Balance is key.
 
Gee64 said:
Flushes remove things, root soaks homogenize things. The difference is the violence in which you apply the water.

Fish hydrolosate is fish that has been soaked in water until it breaks down into base components, so carbs, aminos, minerals, etc.

Fish emulsion is fish hydrolosate that has had some or most of the above mentioned removed, usually for health products such as fish oils or vitamins, and now whats left won't reblend. It seperates in the bottle and all the shaking in the world won't mix it in a manner that won't quickly unseperate. Its the crap left after the good stuff has been skimmed off, so they add an emulsifier, which is any compound that binds the crap back together. Hydrolosate, AKA hydrolyzed, is held together by Mother Natures keen eye for balance so it doesn't need an emulsifier.

Any product, even if it mentions hydrolysate or hydroltzed, that is classified as an emulsion has been stripped of things so stay away from it.

Hydrolysate is expensive. In Canada fish emulsion is 7 or 8 dollars a gallon. Fish Hydrolysate is 70 dollars a gallon.

That sounds expensive but I use 2ml of it per litre of water, so 1 litre of hydrolysate makes 500 litres of fish fertilizer. It becomes cheap in that context, considering it's very healthy and emulsion is ultra processed food you would buy at McDonalds.

So now reread the Biobizz description and tell me what you think of it.

Here is what I use. See if you can find something similar. Don't trust the Grow Shop guy, he is a dealer.
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I've found one available in the agric sector. It contains triacontanol which is a growth stimulant. Is that a friendly additive or a toxic one, do you think? I found a write up in Wiki. I can only find McD versions here otherwise.
 
Just a reminder for the observers:

If you don’t understand and have no desire to understand microbial interactions and what’s happening at a molecular level, there’s no need to complicate organic.

Learn to compost or vermicompost. You’ve just learned 98% of organic growing. Trying to work your way into organic growing from any other direction will leave you frustrated and confused about something that’s not really confusing.
 
Keffka said:
Just a reminder for the observers:

If you don’t understand and have no desire to understand microbial interactions and what’s happening at a molecular level, there’s no need to complicate organic.

Learn to compost or vermicompost. You’ve just learned 98% of organic growing. Trying to work your way into organic growing from any other direction will leave you frustrated and confused about something that’s not really confusing.
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This is sooooooo true. Trust the system and enjoy Easy Street. If it goes south bring it in here. If I'm not around Keff usually is, and all you guys collectively likely have answers too.

Don't be shy, roll the dice and see what you get. If it fails, and it will from time to time don't be too embarrassed to ask for help. The sooner you ask, the bigger the yield.
 
Gee64 said:
This is sooooooo true. Trust the system and enjoy Easy Street. If it goes south bring it in here. If I'm not around Keff usually is, and all you guys collectively likely have answers too.

Don't be shy, roll the dice and see what you get. If it fails, and it will from time to time don't be too embarrassed to ask for help. The sooner you ask, the bigger the yield.
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Please please please ask for help, or even throw your two cents in. Nothing gets the information and understanding flowing like having outside perspectives and viewpoints. I’ve learned plenty of things from synthetic growers that I use, I’ve also learned plenty of things talking about the basics of organic to new growers.

Oftentimes it only takes one innocent question from a new grower for me to wind up purchasing and reading multiple books. That’s a good thing to me and it won’t happen naturally without a little push from different approaches.
 
Keffka said:
Please please please ask for help, or even throw your two cents in. Nothing gets the information and understanding flowing like having outside perspectives and viewpoints. I’ve learned plenty of things from synthetic growers that I use, I’ve also learned plenty of things talking about the basics of organic to new growers.

Oftentimes it only takes one innocent question from a new grower for me to wind up purchasing and reading multiple books. That’s a good thing to me and it won’t happen naturally without a little push from different approaches.
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It takes a Villiage.....
 
Carmen Ray said:
I've found one available in the agric sector. It contains triacontanol which is a growth stimulant. Is that a friendly additive or a toxic one, do you think? I found a write up in Wiki. I can only find McD versions here otherwise.
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Triacontanol is an excellent natural growth hormone. I add alfalfa as a green meal to get it, but as long as you are getting some its fantastic stuff. Moderation is key so like anything, just because its good doesn't mean you should overdose it, but yeah... its good stuff.
 
Gee64 said:
Triacontanol is an excellent natural growth hormone. I add alfalfa as a green meal to get it, but as long as you are getting some its fantastic stuff. Moderation is key so like anything, just because its good doesn't mean you should overdose it, but yeah... its good stuff.
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They only sell it in 25 L drums, so I'm still looking. What do you think about this next product? I can't see anything about an emulsifier.

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Moisture readings at about 4-5 in most of the pot with one patch still 6.5ish, so looks like tomorrow for another watering.

Gee64 said:
It is interesting isn't it😎. Thats why I wanted you to poke in at least 5 spots.

If you mix your soil longer before potting, it will be more homogenous. Carbon holds water. 4 times it's weight aproximately, so if your carbon inputs, coco, bark mulch, straw, whatever it is you use, isn't mixed evenly, dry and wet spots arise.

Then roots will chase the water and shield out the dry spots. If the dy spots are 25% of your pot, 25% will never get eaten. So a 2gal pot becomes a 1.5gal pot.
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But I assume that's correctable with a good watering which entices the roots which produce exudates which attract microbe that produce carbon which better holds onto water which entices more roots...

Or no. I'm doomed to dry patches for the rest of the grow?
 
Azimuth said:
Moisture readings at about 4-5 in most of the pot with one patch still 6.5ish, so looks like tomorrow for another watering.


But I assume that's correctable with a good watering which entices the roots which produce exudates which attract microbe that produce carbon which better holds onto water which entices more roots...

Or no. I'm doomed to dry patches for the rest of the grow?
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It will even out somewhat. Next batch when you consider your soil mixed, call that half ways and mix it again. Then on 1st watering, or before you even plant is how I do it, give the whole pot a full root drench, then plant and go from there.

Don't forget to check your surfaces for crustiness.

Do the plants look wilty?

Has vigour increased?
 
Let's talk soil cooking, mins and maxes.

I have a 15 gallon fabric pot which I'm thinking about using to hold my on-deck mix for future grows once I settle on a mix I want to use for a few runs. That won't be for a while since I still have a few things I want to test out.

15 gallons is 2 cubic feet and is a quantity more commonly given in standard LOS recipies than my 2 gallons and so I won't need my conversions for a small pot, but it's a quantity that would last me a whole year.

I'm assuming 4 weeks would be the minimum cooking time, but what about the far limit? Does it just keep getting better with age sitting there without a plant as stuff continues to mature, or is there a point where too much has broken down and become available leading to a spike in new plant growth and then a crash as the nutrients all became available too early?

So, what's a good shelf life for a mixed soil ready to go, but with love unrequited?
 
Azimuth said:
Let's talk soil cooking, mins and maxes.

I have a 15 gallon fabric pot which I'm thinking about using to hold my on-deck mix for future grows once I settle on a mix I want to use for a few runs. That won't be for a while since I still have a few things I want to test out.

15 gallons is 2 cubic feet and is a quantity more commonly given in standard LOS recipies than my 2 gallons and so I won't need my conversions for a small pot, but it's a quantity that would last me a whole year.

I'm assuming 4 weeks would be the minimum cooking time, but what about the far limit? Does it just keep getting better with age sitting there without a plant as stuff continues to mature, or is there a point where too much has broken down and become available leading to a spike in new plant growth and then a crash as the nutrients all became available too early?

So, what's a good shelf life for a mixed soil ready to go, but with love unrequited?
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Im not sure of a maximum time. I have used tubbed soil a year old that worked fine. 4 weeks would be bare minimum, 8 weeks is better.
 
Gee64 said:
It will even out somewhat. Next batch when you consider your soil mixed, calm that half ways and mix it again.
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What does that mean?
 
Gee64 said:
Im not sure of a maximum time. I have used tubbed soil a year old that worked fine. 4 weeks would be bare minimum, 8 weeks is better.
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Ok, so a year's supply is not excessive. Maybe I'll try half of that and see.
 
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