The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Keffka]

Here is the gang last night. The BK's in solo's are getting a taste of the big light now too.

Here is Ikky.

RVDV2.

LC-18, still hurting.

RVDV1. She's a huge sprawl. She would be a great scrogger.

The 3 BK's 48 hours after theit 1st topping.

It won't be long until the 2 new tops can be topped again.

The 2nd node clone branches really shoot out fast after a topping.

The coty's are yellowing, time to uppot. Probably Sunday or Monday as I have a bunch of tomato sprouts to uppot today, and also about 100 gallons of outdoor soil to reammend. It's going to be a busy day!

Spring has sprung in the desert, it's supposed to get up to 19 or 20 degrees today, so it should be a good yard day

It’s been 60F for a few days but is going to drop to 20F next week. This is such a crappy time for growers around here but I’m thinking next week will be the last gasp of winter, we’ll see.

What’s up with LC18? She looks like my sprouts do when I misjudge my ppms early on.

 

[Gee64]

It’s been 60F for a few days but is going to drop to 20F next week. This is such a crappy time for growers around here but I’m thinking next week will be the last gasp of winter, we’ll see.

What’s up with LC18? She looks like my sprouts do when I misjudge my ppms early on.

She didn't survive the harsh soil like the other 3 did. She is slowly improving, but she won't be going to flower next week.

She has been flushed twice and the 2nd one has her turning the corner. Next watering she will get a myco drench.

Then she's in the veg tent for at least 10 weeks, so she will probably become a clone donor once she is healthy, and I can maybe run a clone run next in the flower tent when these other 3 are done, or perhaps even an outdoor clone grow in a pot.

 

[Gee64]

Here is RV's mutation. At the lower arrow the stalk is round and normal, but at the upper arrow it has turned into a wide flat ribbon similar to a bus cable inside a computer.

The tops on the 2 clone branches, which are where the mutations are occurring, are really bushy.

If I can get her to flower it should be very interesting..

Ikky's mutation is a straight up whorled phylotaxy localized to both of her clone branches. They should flower out nicely too if they make it. I will grab Ikky close-ups next time I'm in the tent.

 

[Azimuth]

If I can get her to flower it should be very interesting..

Maybe just lower your standards. I've never not had a plant make it to flower.

 

[Gee64]

Maybe just lower your standards. I've never not had a plant make it to flower.

Wait til you get a gimp. They run like the wind, then suddenly just give up, brix crash, and if you don't cull them the bugs will arrive. Not worth it once they crash.

 

[Gee64]

Wait til you get a gimp. They run like the wind, then suddenly just give up, brix crash, and if you don't cull them the bugs will arrive. Not worth it once they crash.

But I have 2 cracks at it this grow

 

[Lerugged]

That looks like faciation to me. The bushiest stalks will give crazy looking buds but not great smoke. The others will be good though. I've grown some massive plants with faciation going on on one or two branches.
You will get them all to flower. You brought them back so, flowing them should be second nature. Have faith .

 

[Gee64]

That looks like faciation to me. The bushiest stalks will give crazy looking buds but not great smoke. The others will be good though. I've grown some massive plants with faciation going on on one or two branches.
You will get them all to flower. You brought them back so, flowing them should be second nature. Have faith .

Cool I'm OK with some OK smoke if it comes with really cool buds. It's only on the 2nd node branches of each plant, the other 4 on each are normal.

 

[StoneOtter]

Yep my flat branches give those cool weird flowers!

 

[Gee64]

Here's the gang tonight. Ikky is up front, RV2 is on the left, RV1 on the right, and the 3 BK's are in the back left corner. LC is now in the veg tent.

RV1. She is symmetrically perfect.I gushed over her a long time ago as a seedling, and she is still that gorgeous. I wish the pictures could convey the magnitude. It's not often you get a true beauty. She looks very tame and refined. Almost polished. So unlike her younger sister who is a full on wild child.

Here is Ikky. She's compact for a sativa, and a beautiful shape.

The upper top is Ikky's whorled phylotaxy arm. The lower top is a normal one.

Here is Ikky's other whorled arm. She is outgrowing the mutation. The upper nodes are standard staggered nodes now.
You can see the mutation disappear over a few nodes here.

Here is one of RV2's crazy mutant tops.

And here is RV2 from above. She trained into a perfect 6 pack on the 1st go at bondage.

So sometime in the next few days flip will occur. I still have to adjust some bondage and do some pruning of side branches and even tho I don't need clones, I am going to cut a few just to see if they will root in a new medium I have never cloned in.

I'm busy for the next couple days, so it will be a bit yet.

I'm going to plan on a 10 week flower time. I'm hoping to have the next round of TMSC seeds ready to go in the flower tent immediately after I harvest these. LC and a Lucky Lady for sure, and then 2 more that I'm still undecided on.

Here are the 3 BK's.

It's been 4 days since I manifolded to 2 tops. Those 2 aren't quite big enough to top yet, but hopefully tomorrow, and then we will have 4 tops. They get uppotted into 1.6gal cloth pots tomorrow for sure. It's at the top of my to-do list.

 

[Gee64]

Here's a Good Morning, Lights On webcam shot.

 

[Gee64]

VPD is spot on.

RV1.

RV2.

Iklwa.

WildChild RV2 has very long slender classic sativa leaves.

RV1 is a little softer around the edges.

Ikky is fat, stalky, and really green.

Random cola shots, some are mutants.

 

[Gee64]

RV2 mutanting away.

Both sides.

and some normal tops.

They aren't quite ready for flower yet, but soon. Hopefully 3-4 more days. Brix tests tomorrow.

 

[Gee64]

Manifolding:
1 of the four was ready to be topped to 4 mains, the other 2 need another day.

Here they are all uppotted.

All with 2 healthy tops coming up.

This one is ready. It gets topped at this arrow.

Like this, and then topped at this arrow,

Like this. Now it's headed to 4 equal mains. In 4 or 5 days it will get topped again.

The other 2 are like this, not quite ready to top.

1 more day.

 

[Gee64]

I almost forgot. Here are the most important parts, the rootballs.

This one has been dusted in myco and then sprayed lightly to moisten the powder. Ready for the hole.

I got them out just in time. The roots were full but not circling yet. Perfect!.

See how the top inch is devoid of roots, thats light avoidance. Mulch will fix that. I don't add mulch usually until stretch, when I want the roots to come up and get all the goodies that have been building on top. It's my battery to draw on when needed.

The light brown in the roots is wetted myco powder.

Here is the bottom before dusting, all nice white roots. Fuzzy ones, no bald water roots. Myco roots are for eating.

These should do well in their new pots.

Because I manifold, the above ground portion isn't as large as some growers grow their seedlings, but the constant topping allows the rootball to be bigger than the plant above, which is my main goal.

The roots are the engine and the engine should never get less powerful than the plants demands.

These engines are very large for the amount of plant they currently support, so when I transplant and the roots stall for a week or so, the rootball is still big enough already to support more plant growth, so uppotting mature non-rootbound rootballs will give you a faster transition into the larger pots.

Don't let them get rootbound to the point of spiralling or you will have to untangle the roots at uppotting. That always causes a week of downtime.

These rootballs right here are why I always use good used non-reammended soil from a previous grow. The life in the soil innoculates the plants roots.

 

[Gee64]

I take my time and am very meticulous at uppottings. They are the biggest, most violent occurrences in the plants life. Uppottings are also your one chance at doing things under the surface. What happens here lasts for weeks or months.

I found this guy roaming around in my mix.

I start by pressing the solo into the soil, then laying out some myco. It will get sprayed with RO water to dampen it.

Then I set my rootball on it. The bamboo rod is to show how I dish my hole.

Then i carefully fill the dishing as I stack good successful used soil next to the roots.

Then I flip up the bag, fill the outer ring of the pot with my new mix until it's level with the stacked used soil, and then stack more used soil next to the rootball.
Then fill the outer ring with new mix again.

Almost there. It usually takes 3 goes to eventually have the pot filled and with used soil next to the entire rootball.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Beautiful roots!

 

[Gidorah]

Interesting method on the root light avoidance and mulching the top at stretch to utilize the nutrients there. I topdress with Geoflora so it would seem like I could be missing out on some leftover unutilized nutrients.

 

[Gee64]

Interesting method on the root light avoidance and mulching the top at stretch to utilize the nutrients there. I topdress with Geoflora so it would seem like I could be missing out on some leftover unutilized nutrients.

If you want to see a really good example of this, lay black plastic over the surface.
In a few weeks roots will be right up next to the plastic.

You see it from time to time with the Sip'ers. Some of them wrap the surface in plastic. When they remove the plastic the feeder roots are right at the surface.

You could use mulch from Day 1 if you like, but I don't need that extra until stretch, or to be more specific, the 3 weeks after stretch when most deficiencies arise, so when I flip I usually topdress, mulch heavy, and put the auto-drippers in over the mulch.

If you think your plants need a boost you can sprinkle myco 1st, then topdress and mulch.

Then moving forwards when I topdress or add EWC I only add enough at one time that I can water in and have it settle into and thru the mulch.

All that being said, heres a good tip on something I have noticed. Not tried to achieve or prove, but an observation.

If when you transplant a seedling for it's 1st uppot, and it's leggy so your intent is to bury it deep to make it sturdier, and try to take advantage of it's adventitious rooting capabilities on the buried stalk, I have noticed that sometimes you get roots from the buried stalk, and sometimes you don't.

If you mulch immediately upon uppotting, you seem to get adventitious rooting action much more often. You need a fairly thick layer of mulch to block light, but it can't be muddy and full of fines that will clog airways. Use bark nuggets, or wood chips, or anything that blocks light but promotes air movement to the soil below.

Fir bark mulch in medium size nuggets is the best I have found so far. Never use walnut or cedar.

Screen out the fines and keep the nuggets over a quarter inch. The feeder roots will come up and actually grow right into the nuggets to consume them.

The fines are excellent in your compost or worm farm or a soil mix.

They WILL increase water retention, as they are heavy carbon, so keep that in mind if you are thinking of tossing them in your soil mix.

 

[Keffka]

I almost forgot. Here are the most important parts, the rootballs.

This one has been dusted in myco and then sprayed lightly to moisten the powder. Ready for the hole.

I got them out just in time. The roots were full but not circling yet. Perfect!.

See how the top inch is devoid of roots, thats light avoidance. Mulch will fix that. I don't add mulch usually until stretch, when I want the roots to come up and get all the goodies that have been building on top. It's my battery to draw on when needed.

The light brown in the roots is wetted myco powder.

Here is the bottom before dusting, all nice white roots. Fuzzy ones, no bald water roots. Myco roots are for eating.

These should do well in their new pots.

Because I manifold, the above ground portion isn't as large as some growers grow their seedlings, but the constant topping allows the rootball to be bigger than the plant above, which is my main goal.

The roots are the engine and the engine should never get less powerful than the plants demands.

These engines are very large for the amount of plant they currently support, so when I transplant and the roots stall for a week or so, the rootball is still big enough already to support more plant growth, so uppotting mature non-rootbound rootballs will give you a faster transition into the larger pots.

Don't let them get rootbound to the point of spiralling or you will have to untangle the roots at uppotting. That always causes a week of downtime.

These rootballs right here are why I always use good used non-reammended soil from a previous grow. The life in the soil innoculates the plants roots.

Did you post an image of the container this rootball came out of? If not, will you post a shot of it for me to look at?