The DIY COB Addiction

Hay newbee61, i would get the b-6014 all the way bud.. 3000/90cri's are the sweetspot.. See a lot of great things from this spectrum.. Followed by the 3500/90cri, but doesn't look like you have access to those... I would look at cutter for alternative led drivers.. They will ship anywhere and you know your getting the real deal..
Cheers
 
And for the huge news........... after swapping one 3500/80 for a 2700/90 on each of my 4x vero29 chains my hlg240-1750's are giving me full pull...
420-magazine-mobile1802961259.jpg

THE DRIVERS HAVE PLAY...
Sorry, just may have mentioned that b4..
Cheers
 
Peachapoil said:
Thanks to all of you that answer all of my question ayhnd took time to give me good information! I think that the best for me now is

2 x Bxrc-30g10ko-d-73-se
6 x Bxrc-40g10ko-d-73-se
2 x hlg240-1750 b (i wish i could find a driver that could let me drive up to 100% these cob led but it's the best that fit my budget and these cob)
8 x pin fin passive heatsink
2 x inline meter (do you have one to recommand)
2 x linear potentiometter (87 k was recommanded i think)
1 x plastic control box

I'm from canada so if you have place to recommand to buy parts i'm oprn to any suggestion :)

I'll start to buy parts every week by next week :)
Thanks again guys
Click to expand...
Hay peachapoil
I would swap those numbers around if i were you.. I would get all 3000k 90cri or 3500k 90cri, which ever you prefer.. You dont need to mix spectrums.. Both of those options above will gro from seed to weed and kill it in flower.. You will not be disappointed... Future electronics is pretty good in canada...
Cheers
 
jimmyclone said:
Hay newbee61, i would get the b-6014 all the way bud.. 3000/90cri's are the sweetspot.. See a lot of great things from this spectrum.. Followed by the 3500/90cri, but doesn't look like you have access to those... I would look at cutter for alternative led drivers.. They will ship anywhere and you know your getting the real deal..
Cheers
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply; if those in my written list doesnt make it then i have to buy them abroud. because want to do it just one time and in a rigth way.
 
I watched a lot of grows on YouTube using nothing but the 3500k from start to finish with great results, and looking the spectrum analysis they seem to follow the mccree curve pretty damn good. I feel like that's where I'm gonna be headed..
 
jimmyclone said:
Hay peachapoil
I would swap those numbers around if i were you.. I would get all 3000k 90cri or 3500k 90cri, which ever you prefer.. You dont need to mix spectrums.. Both of those options above will gro from seed to weed and kill it in flower.. You will not be disappointed... Future electronics is pretty good in canada...
Cheers
Click to expand...
I might go for this! I'm still looking for parts !
 
jimmyclone said:
And for the huge news........... after swapping one 3500/80 for a 2700/90 on each of my 4x vero29 chains my hlg240-1750's are giving me full pull...
420-magazine-mobile1802961259.jpg

THE DRIVERS HAVE PLAY...
Sorry, just may have mentioned that b4..
Cheers
Click to expand...

Lol. I heard that driver didn't work. Can't remember who I heard that from. Lolz.
 
newbee61 said:
Hi to all and especially Jimmy :)

I nearly read all the thread and another written before (the same topic). I also decided to built my own light after all and i have some questions. Because first i guess my english is not so well enough and second I'm not so good in electronics as you guys.

In my region i have only the chance to buy these vero29 from one place and these are actually not matching yours. Thats why i want your help. I have also a 4*4 tent where i want to place it and want to make the same 36"*36" as you did. But i want that you can say me which ones I have to buy.

here is the list which vero29's I can get;

B-6011 VERO 29 BXRC-27E10KO-L-03 2700 80
B-6012 VERO 29 BXRC-27G10KO-L-03 2700 90
B-6013 VERO 29 BXRC-30E10KO-L-03 3000 80
B-6014 VERO 29 BXRC-30G10KO-L-04 3000 90
B-6015 VERO 29 BXRC-35E10KO-L-05 3500 80
B-6016 VERO 29 BXRC-40E10KO-L-06 4000 80
B-6017 VERO 29 BXRC-50C10KO-L-07 5000 70

What I also want to ask is about the drivers (meanwell). I'm not able to get that one in my country. Can you just say me for which one I should ask?

I really appriciate the great affort of yours and keep up the good work!!!
Click to expand...

This is my contact in Turkey for Future Electronics. You'll be able to get the Vero 29 and the Meanwell driver's from him.
Cheap!
420-magazine-mobile1913981999.jpg
 
Where can I see that grow at? I would love to watch a video or see more from that cause that is exactly what I wanna do, I mean vero29 but everything else is the same
 
I found today that meanwell driver hlg-320h-c2100 has 2100ma c.c. and output of 152v and 4 vero 29 combine = 152v finaly found my driver :)

Where is the best place to order vero 29 in canada ?

And for inline meter do you put them before driver or between driver and cob ?
Do you have one to recommand ?
 
Peachapoil said:
I found today that meanwell driver hlg-320h-c2100 has 2100ma c.c. and output of 152v and 4 vero 29 combine = 152v . finaly found my driver :)

Where is the best place to order vero 29 in canada ?
Click to expand...

That's too powerful. You'll fry your chips. You'd need the SST x $30 heatsinks.
HLG 185h-c1400b. 200w total. 50w per cob. SST120mm heatsink.
Cheapest route.

Instead of running 36v chips really hard why don't you go up a class to the B series and run 4 Vero 29 B series (52v) on a HLG 320h-c1400 for 60-63w per chip and 12,000 lumens each. You can use the SST 133mm for almost 50,000 lumens on a 4 cob string.
You can get the B chip for the same price as the D chip at Future Electronics.
 
My question about that is if 2100ma is the tested drive current for that chip and it has a Mac of like 4000 something why would that be driving them 2 hard.. That's kind of what I was gonna do too
 
Justwannagrow said:
My question about that is if 2100ma is the tested drive current for that chip and it has a Mac of like 4000 something why would that be driving them 2 hard.. That's kind of what I was gonna do too
Click to expand...

Should be fine for D series, but you'll probably need a 140mm pin heatsinks. I can't remember what the PDF from bridglux said, but I'm thinking max current is like 3.8 amps or 3800ma. Don't quote me on the numbers, not close to my laptop. They will run hotter, I was going to go that route, but decided to go at 1400ma.
 
Justwannagrow said:
My question about that is if 2100ma is the tested drive current for that chip and it has a Mac of like 4000 something why would that be driving them 2 hard.. That's kind of what I was gonna do too
Click to expand...

There are 4 reasons for this.

1) The harder you drive it the hotter it gets. The hotter it gets the shorter it's life.
You can get 10 years out these chips running slightly below current.

2) The thing you're not seeing on the charts is at the bottom...
420-magazine-mobile1325080926.jpg

Those numbers are for reference only. They are not a guarantee. Please remember that these are tested in laboratory conditions under optimal circumstances.
And if you note here....
420-magazine-mobile984243182.jpg

Tested under "pulsed" conditions at a case temperature of 25°C. That means the light was tested very briefly at a very low temperature. I don't know what type of heat think you plan on using but if you intend to keep your chips at 25°C you're going to need at least a liquid cooler.
They usually run around 50-75°C at the core at Max power. With a properly matched driver.

3) The chips only get so bright to a point. Period. They can not get infinitely bright by adding infinitely more current. After a point it just won't get any brighter. This point is usually around 30% less than the test current. After this point at which they will not get brighter they will only get hotter. Those are called heat watts. Heat watts are power being consumed that is not producing light. Adding heat watts without adding "light watts" is pointless.

4) No one runs large chips (50w chips plus) at test current. They are EXTREMELY BRIGHT AS IT IS!!!!!
Always go one driver down from test current at least. This cannot be stressed enough.
 
Just to add about selecting drivers. You can use the rated test current drivers. But not at max power. Some people do this to get better efficiency. But I never recommend that to people who are new to led simply because they will want to run it at full. (because more is better right? More nutes, more light, more water right?)
Running full out at test current will fry your chips. Running at lower power will get you 180 lumens per watt.
I just never recommend running at test current because like new Ferrari owners, people want to drive them as hard as they can until they break.

If you want more light from less COBs there's a wide range of 52v and 69v chips available in the V29 series.
 
Back
Top Bottom