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Starry night and three chemovars
shot on Sony a6000 16-50 mm kit lens
F3.5 8” iso3200
That's an interesting shot @Tony Urban
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Starry night and three chemovars
shot on Sony a6000 16-50 mm kit lens
F3.5 8” iso3200
Yeah I figured I would try and add something unique and different. I wish I had some better glass like a 12 mm f1.8 or 2.0 I’m looking to add some lenses to my collection but I thought since it is advanced photography Thread I would pretend I was advanced... lolGreat shot shottafire. I appreciate that you took the time to write down a few of the shot details for us. Very nicely done.
Camera | Canon EOS REBEL T5i |
Shutter speed | 1/200 |
Aperture | f/16 |
Focal length | 71 mm |
ISO | 400 |
Thank you brotha Hook. It’s fun coming up with the shot In your mind and then trying to execute said shot how you imagined. Challenging sometimes I think that’s what makes it fun....my notifications are spotty on this thread, but sorta' caught up...nice shot's guy's!... ...shotta, Ya got an eye with the camera brotha......cheerz......h00k......
Going through the archives and notice some very specific blur. Distance blur for lack of a better term. Here is something that some folks may not know about.
Minimum focus distance.
Generally speaking, ALL attached lenses have a minimum focus length, with some minor exceptions. Meaning there is a minimum distance away from the subject you have to be in order for it to be 'in focus'. My 100mm F2.8 Macro lens is pretty good with the ability to be about 8 to 10 inches away from the subject. My 70-200mm F4 is much closer to 1.2 metres minimum distance.
Its written on the lens most of the time. Cell phones and other cameras have the same thing. A camera can focus on the rear part of the cola and the front will never be in focus because its too close. Careful selection of the focus point can solve this issue.
Since I am on the subject it made me think of another issue we haven't discussed. Perhaps those with a greater working knowledge can speak to this...
Lens Sweet Spots
My 100mm Macro lens can go from F2.8 to F32. Most of the cheap kit lenses are F5.6- F32, 18-55mm. But it doesn't mean that the lenses have equal sharpness throughout the range. Meaning at F2.8 there may be weaknesses in the sharpness, chromatic aberration, or lens distortion, when compared to say F8.
At F5.6 in the cheaper Canon kit lens, there may be more distortion and colour abnormalities towards the corners and edges of the image than that of the 100mm when at F2.8. Both on the extremes of its abilities, with differences in the amount of abnormalities, based on glass and build quality.
Sharpness may be noticeably weaker at the extremes. But when you get further into the middle ranges, F8 - F16, you may see these abnormalities dissipate. On the other end of the range, the closer you F32 the more these issues begin to creep back in.
At F5.6 in the macro lens, the quality would be noticeably better than the cheaper lens at F5.6 even though its take at the same F stop. Even with the better macro lens there is a sweet spot where the image quality is best. It's sharper, there is less lens distortion, and you get the best out of the lens.
Glass quality is a big component. Build quality, glass quality, glass coatings, and gears are all a bit more quality in the higher priced lenses. While they limit abnormalities, they are still there, software can deal with some of that. An old program I had, Lightroom maybe, would do corrections based on lens types. It was noticeable. Straightening lines, removing a slight bulge from the kit lens, and other neat tricks.
The technology in the newer frameless cameras or even cell phone cameras is pretty impressive. I am almost of the belief that a person could buy a good cell phone and some camera accessories without the need of purchasing a camera. A tripod and handheld camera recording counterbalanced gimble.
I am wandering the empty halls of the member galleries and found a perfect example of a beautiful nug that is too close to the camera, probably a phone, where the phone can only focus on the hand because its the minimum distance away. The hand is in focus and the bud is not. Too bad because this is a nice frosty bud that could have been posted to IG.Going through the archives and notice some very specific blur. Distance blur for lack of a better term. Here is something that some folks may not know about.
Minimum focus distance.
Generally speaking, ALL attached lenses have a minimum focus length, with some minor exceptions. Meaning there is a minimum distance away from the subject you have to be in order for it to be 'in focus'. My 100mm F2.8 Macro lens is pretty good with the ability to be about 8 to 10 inches away from the subject. My 70-200mm F4 is much closer to 1.2 metres minimum distance.
Its written on the lens most of the time. Cell phones and other cameras have the same thing. A camera can focus on the rear part of the cola and the front will never be in focus because its too close. Careful selection of the focus point can solve this issue.
Since I am on the subject it made me think of another issue we haven't discussed. Perhaps those with a greater working knowledge can speak to this...
Lens Sweet Spots
My 100mm Macro lens can go from F2.8 to F32. Most of the cheap kit lenses are F5.6- F32, 18-55mm. But it doesn't mean that the lenses have equal sharpness throughout the range. Meaning at F2.8 there may be weaknesses in the sharpness, chromatic aberration, or lens distortion, when compared to say F8.
At F5.6 in the cheaper Canon kit lens, there may be more distortion and colour abnormalities towards the corners and edges of the image than that of the 100mm when at F2.8. Both on the extremes of its abilities, with differences in the amount of abnormalities, based on glass and build quality.
Sharpness may be noticeably weaker at the extremes. But when you get further into the middle ranges, F8 - F16, you may see these abnormalities dissipate. On the other end of the range, the closer you F32 the more these issues begin to creep back in.
At F5.6 in the macro lens, the quality would be noticeably better than the cheaper lens at F5.6 even though its take at the same F stop. Even with the better macro lens there is a sweet spot where the image quality is best. It's sharper, there is less lens distortion, and you get the best out of the lens.
Glass quality is a big component. Build quality, glass quality, glass coatings, and gears are all a bit more quality in the higher priced lenses. While they limit abnormalities, they are still there, software can deal with some of that. An old program I had, Lightroom maybe, would do corrections based on lens types. It was noticeable. Straightening lines, removing a slight bulge from the kit lens, and other neat tricks.
The technology in the newer mirrorless cameras or even cell phone cameras is pretty impressive. I am almost of the belief that a person could buy a good cell phone and some camera accessories without the need of purchasing a camera. A tripod and handheld camera recording counterbalanced gimble.
A good entry level camera that is super versatile and is professional quality is the Sony a6000. It’s what I use. I’m saving to get a macro lens for it then I can take some macros. I just ordered some extension tubes for it which will allow me to get a little tighter macro photos. Your photos look crip brah. CrispyAloha All,
I love this thread. Still got a ways to catch up but I’ll get there. I’d like to get a better camera eventually.. Just gotta talk my other half into it before I pull the trigger
For now I just use my iPhone 10. It takes some doing and a bunch of photos but I’ll get some nice ones.
Have a blessed day everyone!
Welcome Sunnyskies!Aloha All,
I love this thread. Still got a ways to catch up but I’ll get there. I’d like to get a better camera eventually.. Just gotta talk my other half into it before I pull the trigger
For now I just use my iPhone 10. It takes some doing and a bunch of photos but I’ll get some nice ones.
Have a blessed day everyone!