Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Some Nice training Teldren.
Some Nice training Teldren.
Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dream
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Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Thanks dude I see you were busy yesterday to. GJ dude. I would of got more done but peeps showed up with beer and I had the weed. Got some super silver haze from the dispensary. It is Blue Dream without the blueberry it's ok.
Thanks dude I see you were busy yesterday to. GJ dude. I would of got more done but peeps showed up with beer and I had the weed. Got some super silver haze from the dispensary. It is Blue Dream without the blueberry it's ok.
Renegade69
Well-Known Member
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Teldren and Others.
Need some help with yellowing tips. Please pop over and see what I'm talking about.
Thanks guys.....
Renegade
Teldren and Others.
Need some help with yellowing tips. Please pop over and see what I'm talking about.
Thanks guys.....
Renegade
ProperGreen
New Member
Your Recipe & Organic Cal/Mg
"Proper you seem to know your organics. You saw my recipe...anything you would change/add? Like most everyone I hijacked it from someone else and have tweaked it with my own shit. (not literally lol) Seems to work good so far. I had to add the cal-mag because I would get Mg def. from the distilled water lack of salt. Is Cal-Mag bad to use in organics? If so what can be used organically instead?"
Hey brother,
I thought I'd reply here rather than in organicpots guys thread.
Your soil mix seems to be working really well for you, so you don't have to change anything lol, but seems you're like me and always looking to improve, even when your having good results, so I'll give it a shot..
You use 50% earthworm castings! Like I said in my 1st or 2nd post here, that's a VERY high percentage!
Seems you would have problems with drainage using so much! If not drainage, def. a little less oxygen available to the roots considering how tight the EWCs can bind!
The highest percentage I've ever used is 33% of 1/3 of my base soil being EWCs.
And when I say base soil, I mean humus part of the soil.
Like the bagged soil, the compost, the Alaska humus, and the EWCs...The brownish/blackish stuff.
Those things make up my base. My base it the site where the brunt of my microbes are coming from so to speak. These are the microbes that make your organic amendments into plant food.
Next I add my soil conditioners. These are things like perlite/pumice/expanded shale/rice hulls for aeration, and things like rock dusts and diatomaceous earth. Things that condition the soil, but don't really nourish it by feeding the microorganisms. The D.Earth is good for silica and is like broken glass shards to any bugs that wanna make my soil their home. It's essentially natural pesticide that dehydrates bugs on contact.
Then to my conditioned base I add anywhere from 3-5 cups of organic amendments per cu ft. of base mix.
In other words, the organic ferts(kelp meal, alfalfa meal, guanos, etc) I'll be using, as well as the mineral amendments.
I learned the 3-5 cups thing A LONG time ago when I was starting out from someone who knew so much more than me at the time, and took the time to help me out, and it always worked well so I've continued to apply that rule with better and better success.
I've always reused my soil too because I've never used any chemicals.
In working this way you established the fertility of your soil, which basically means it gets better and better over time when you take care of it. The more microorganisms, the higher your concentration of nutrients.
So I'd always break the rootballs down, add to the soil half of what I added previously, let it sit for 3-4wk, and then use it again. I'd only need to add half of what I added previously because the majority of organic ferts are released slowly over a long period of time, so after 5 months, some of the amendments will just be reaching their peak levels, while other maybe have been used already or are still plentiful in the soil.
The bonus of organics is using your soil over and over again and it getting better with time.
This is the way you save money and grow better. Unlike with chemicals with kill of microbes and do nothing for the soil as they feed the plants directly, bypassing microorganisms in the soil as a whole.
But I've also been trying to add only amendments that serve more than one purpose in the soil, so that I can get everything I need out of fewer amendments. I feel like this will provide me with a little more control over time, as well as save me some money, while still getting great results. Maybe I'll switch up the amendments every other time I recycle the soil or something?! Not sure yet lol. I've only been doing this for 2 years, and don't expect to have it all down for another 10 lol. Lots more experimenting and learning to do!
But you see how in depth I go versus how simple your mix is, and you're getting great results right?!
There are SO MANY different ways to get to the same end result without have to buy anything in bottles to feed your plants! All the money ppl waste on bottle nutes, they don't have to.
They can also save time as well by never having to check the EC or pH, or PPM, or any of that.
In a solid organic soil, all that is under control. You feed the soil and you plants take from the soil what they want, when they need it. We don't need to feed our plants.
And speaking of buying things in bottles, you don't need the Cal/Mg.
I'm not sure if it's bad for the soil ecosystem as I've never looked into it or used it myself, but I will check it out.
Just depends what it is ya know? If it's salt based, it's no good for the microbes in the soil.
As far as organic Cal/Mg you can use crab shell meal for sure. There's some Cal/Mg in worm castings.
There's Cal/Mg in lime. That can be your Cal/Mg source when the humus content in your soil is high enough, which yours should be do to all the worm casting. There's Cal/Mg in Alfalfa Meal which I use!
And there's Cal/Mg in Epsom Salt, which is probably the cheapest form.
So yeah, you don't need to pay for a bottle!
Also you said you used the lime to counteract the acidity of the peat, which acidifies as it decomposes.
That's right on as far as I learned when first starting out, but truth be told, your humus content is what's gonna keep your pH near neutral. Especially the amount of worm castings you have. They're high in bacteria, and bacteria produce a slime that is pretty much neutral. A near neutral pH is what you want in an organic system because this is where the nitrifying bacteria thrive.
But I'm really surprised that you're not seeing any deficiencies given the make up of your soil!
Must be the guano teas helping out big time!
I do see some room for improvement in the mix tho, but like I said, you're doing fine with what you have!
I see that you can add some Kelp Meal and Alfalfa Meal to your soil mix for the added EVERYTHING that you get from those two amendments, as well as some compost or forest humus just to diversify it a little in regards to the microorganisms living in your soil!
Some mineraliztion would be good too! Kelp Meal serves that purpose, as does rocks dust and Azomite among other things!
Any other questions you might have just ask brother! If I know I can chime in and if I don't know we can figure it out!
& blessings
Ps, Hope your enjoy your novel like organicpot lol
"Proper you seem to know your organics. You saw my recipe...anything you would change/add? Like most everyone I hijacked it from someone else and have tweaked it with my own shit. (not literally lol) Seems to work good so far. I had to add the cal-mag because I would get Mg def. from the distilled water lack of salt. Is Cal-Mag bad to use in organics? If so what can be used organically instead?"
Hey brother,
I thought I'd reply here rather than in organicpots guys thread.
Your soil mix seems to be working really well for you, so you don't have to change anything lol, but seems you're like me and always looking to improve, even when your having good results, so I'll give it a shot..
You use 50% earthworm castings! Like I said in my 1st or 2nd post here, that's a VERY high percentage!
Seems you would have problems with drainage using so much! If not drainage, def. a little less oxygen available to the roots considering how tight the EWCs can bind!
The highest percentage I've ever used is 33% of 1/3 of my base soil being EWCs.
And when I say base soil, I mean humus part of the soil.
Like the bagged soil, the compost, the Alaska humus, and the EWCs...The brownish/blackish stuff.
Those things make up my base. My base it the site where the brunt of my microbes are coming from so to speak. These are the microbes that make your organic amendments into plant food.
Next I add my soil conditioners. These are things like perlite/pumice/expanded shale/rice hulls for aeration, and things like rock dusts and diatomaceous earth. Things that condition the soil, but don't really nourish it by feeding the microorganisms. The D.Earth is good for silica and is like broken glass shards to any bugs that wanna make my soil their home. It's essentially natural pesticide that dehydrates bugs on contact.
Then to my conditioned base I add anywhere from 3-5 cups of organic amendments per cu ft. of base mix.
In other words, the organic ferts(kelp meal, alfalfa meal, guanos, etc) I'll be using, as well as the mineral amendments.
I learned the 3-5 cups thing A LONG time ago when I was starting out from someone who knew so much more than me at the time, and took the time to help me out, and it always worked well so I've continued to apply that rule with better and better success.
I've always reused my soil too because I've never used any chemicals.
In working this way you established the fertility of your soil, which basically means it gets better and better over time when you take care of it. The more microorganisms, the higher your concentration of nutrients.
So I'd always break the rootballs down, add to the soil half of what I added previously, let it sit for 3-4wk, and then use it again. I'd only need to add half of what I added previously because the majority of organic ferts are released slowly over a long period of time, so after 5 months, some of the amendments will just be reaching their peak levels, while other maybe have been used already or are still plentiful in the soil.
The bonus of organics is using your soil over and over again and it getting better with time.
This is the way you save money and grow better. Unlike with chemicals with kill of microbes and do nothing for the soil as they feed the plants directly, bypassing microorganisms in the soil as a whole.
But I've also been trying to add only amendments that serve more than one purpose in the soil, so that I can get everything I need out of fewer amendments. I feel like this will provide me with a little more control over time, as well as save me some money, while still getting great results. Maybe I'll switch up the amendments every other time I recycle the soil or something?! Not sure yet lol. I've only been doing this for 2 years, and don't expect to have it all down for another 10 lol. Lots more experimenting and learning to do!
But you see how in depth I go versus how simple your mix is, and you're getting great results right?!
There are SO MANY different ways to get to the same end result without have to buy anything in bottles to feed your plants! All the money ppl waste on bottle nutes, they don't have to.
They can also save time as well by never having to check the EC or pH, or PPM, or any of that.
In a solid organic soil, all that is under control. You feed the soil and you plants take from the soil what they want, when they need it. We don't need to feed our plants.
And speaking of buying things in bottles, you don't need the Cal/Mg.
I'm not sure if it's bad for the soil ecosystem as I've never looked into it or used it myself, but I will check it out.
Just depends what it is ya know? If it's salt based, it's no good for the microbes in the soil.
As far as organic Cal/Mg you can use crab shell meal for sure. There's some Cal/Mg in worm castings.
There's Cal/Mg in lime. That can be your Cal/Mg source when the humus content in your soil is high enough, which yours should be do to all the worm casting. There's Cal/Mg in Alfalfa Meal which I use!
And there's Cal/Mg in Epsom Salt, which is probably the cheapest form.
So yeah, you don't need to pay for a bottle!
Also you said you used the lime to counteract the acidity of the peat, which acidifies as it decomposes.
That's right on as far as I learned when first starting out, but truth be told, your humus content is what's gonna keep your pH near neutral. Especially the amount of worm castings you have. They're high in bacteria, and bacteria produce a slime that is pretty much neutral. A near neutral pH is what you want in an organic system because this is where the nitrifying bacteria thrive.
But I'm really surprised that you're not seeing any deficiencies given the make up of your soil!
Must be the guano teas helping out big time!
I do see some room for improvement in the mix tho, but like I said, you're doing fine with what you have!
I see that you can add some Kelp Meal and Alfalfa Meal to your soil mix for the added EVERYTHING that you get from those two amendments, as well as some compost or forest humus just to diversify it a little in regards to the microorganisms living in your soil!
Some mineraliztion would be good too! Kelp Meal serves that purpose, as does rocks dust and Azomite among other things!
Any other questions you might have just ask brother! If I know I can chime in and if I don't know we can figure it out!
& blessingsPs, Hope your enjoy your novel like organicpot lol
- Thread starter
- #85
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Here they are this morning. I love growth explosions!
Here they are this morning. I love growth explosions!
- Thread starter
- #86
- Thread starter
- #87
- Thread starter
- #88
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Great work
Great work
- Thread starter
- #90
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Been really busy with work this week sorry no updates for a bit. Due to my slacking having to work I had to do some more training today that was neglected.
This is basically about 3 months from when I took my Blue Dream cuttings.
Been really busy with work this week sorry no updates for a bit. Due to my slacking having to work I had to do some more training today that was neglected.
This is basically about 3 months from when I took my Blue Dream cuttings.
- Thread starter
- #91
- Thread starter
- #92
- Thread starter
- #93
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Filling up very nice Teldren, these girls are going to love the scrog net
Smokey Sunday brotha hope all is rolling smooth!
Filling up very nice Teldren, these girls are going to love the scrog net
Smokey Sunday brotha hope all is rolling smooth!
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Yea man.you got those girl's opened up nice.
Yea man.you got those girl's opened up nice.
- Thread starter
- #96
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
Looking good. Looks like your ready to flip!
Looking good. Looks like your ready to flip!
- Thread starter
- #98
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- #99
- Thread starter
- #100
Re: Teldrens Organic Soil 6-Plant Scrog 2x 400 HPS - 2 OG Kush 2 Bubba Kush 2 Blue Dr
OG Kush x 3
OG Kush x 3